[BavarianBeastTamer]

I get delivery of my car next week. I decided to clay, zaio, z5, then zcs. Can i still aplly a pure carnuba wax for additional asthetics

[Weaselboy]

Originally Posted by carrabassett786

Hey,
some lady cut me off when I had a full gas can in my trunk. As far as I could tell, the rubber trunk mat held all the gas that spilled, but after airing out my car for a day, it still reeks of gas. What can I do to clean it up?
Thanks

?

[carrabassett786]

Originally Posted by Weaselboy

?

Jesus christ, i had that nightmare.

[OtherAggie]

Hi George,

I asked this question in a few other places but I'd like your opinion, if you have one.

This is about a boat, not a car. We detailed my friend's boat about a week ago, and it came out great except for the driver's window. There are tiny grey specks all over it. I think the interior coating from the cover melted onto the glass.

We tried glass cleaner, goo gone, clay, a Magic Eraser, and Scotch-Brite. The Scotch-Brite worked, but it scratched the glass. Nothing else worked on the grey specks, and I'm afraid to try a razor blade on the curved glass.

So now I need ideas on both the grey specks and the scratches. I've received answers from glass polish to AIO to 00 grade steel wool. Do you happen to have any additional thoughts? TIA

[arabbmw]

George,

First off i wanted to say thank you for answering all these questions, it really is an amazing thing your doing. My question is, what would you reccomend as a one step polish that will do a decent amount of correction with out leaving any haze or very little haze. Ill be using a pc by the way. im planning on following it up with zaino aio and z2 or the klasse twins so i figure those might remove any little bit of haze left. but i would really like to not have to worry about haze. What do you think?

[BayerischeMW]

when using the PC or Meguiar's G110/220, should the pad move clockwise, or not move at all? sometimes when i apply pressure, the pad stops going clockwise, and doesn't move, but the machine's motor still goes strong. i know the DA's oscillate, though. just wondering if i should allow the pad to move or not?

thanks!

[picus]

Originally Posted by BayerischeMW

when using the PC or Meguiar's G110/220, should the pad move clockwise, or not move at all? sometimes when i apply pressure, the pad stops going clockwise, and doesn't move, but the machine's motor still goes strong. i know the DA's oscillate, though. just wondering if i should allow the pad to move or not?

thanks!

This is what makes the PC good & bad; good because when you apply pressure the motor doesn't have the power to keep the pad moving, so you have a much lower chance of burning your paint. Of course the downside is you get less corrective ability...

[RedGT3]

I have a question about polishing. When I polish (Menzermz IP) my car the product dries in like 20 seconds not like on the videos online. How can I get the product to last longer w/o drying?. Thanks

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Joey Babs

George, thanks so much again i really appreciate it. I am going to order some items from your site, but in the meantime i got a nylon mit, kinda like sheep's skin (best they had), waffle weave MF towels, and zymol car wash detergent. Its a week old e92 any advice for her first wash on sat? Whats the order for applying the forementioned products? Wash, wax then sealant?? Would CG shampoo provide more of a shine than the SSS? I just want to get a quality wash all around, clean, shine and protectant. Also i was thinking in between washes, to keep the rims clean using the clay bar spray on a paper towel, just because the MF towels will prob get ruined by the brake dust and it would become $$$$, and wiping my rims down, good idea, bad idea??? Thanks again George. Also im gonna order in prob the next 3 days, are there any discount codes i can use??? Thx

Sorry for the delayed reply. Advice, take your time, rinse your mitt frequently, utilize the 2 bucket wash system, let the shampoo do the cleaning, not the mitt, and wash in the shade if available (or early in the morning or a dusk). Check here for a guide to properly washing and drying.

Both provide a nice shine, but if you use too much CG Citrus Wash & Gloss it will strip off previous coats of protection. I maintain my car with SS&S and when I want to start fresh I turn to CG CWG.

I wouldn't recommend using a paper towel, you'll end up adding swirls and mini scratches to your wheels, which I'm sure will be more costly than replacing a re-washable microfiber towel in the end. Just dedicate a few towels specifically for your wheels, even if it's cheap $1 Costco ones, much better than a paper towel.

Discount codes, you always have e90post for 10% off your orders with us, and if you're order is over $75 until the end of the month, you can use the code DISummer08 for 10% off and free ground shipping.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help you with.

Originally Posted by BavarianBeastTamer

I get delivery of my car next week. I decided to clay, zaio, z5, then zcs. Can i still aplly a pure carnuba wax for additional asthetics

Yes definitely, many people who use Zaino opt to put a carnauba wax on top for additional depth and gloss. Just make sure you wait at least 24 hours for the sealant to fully cure (unless you're using the ZFX) before topping Zaino with a wax.

Originally Posted by OtherAggie

Hi George,

I asked this question in a few other places but I'd like your opinion, if you have one.

This is about a boat, not a car. We detailed my friend's boat about a week ago, and it came out great except for the driver's window. There are tiny grey specks all over it. I think the interior coating from the cover melted onto the glass.

We tried glass cleaner, goo gone, clay, a Magic Eraser, and Scotch-Brite. The Scotch-Brite worked, but it scratched the glass. Nothing else worked on the grey specks, and I'm afraid to try a razor blade on the curved glass.

So now I need ideas on both the grey specks and the scratches. I've received answers from glass polish to AIO to 00 grade steel wool. Do you happen to have any additional thoughts? TIA

Can you feel the specs on the glass? or is it smooth and the glass is stained? For aggressive removal of contamination on glass, I always turn to using a razor blade. I spray the glass with some sort of lubrication (usually a quick detailer) and work in small areas, gently working the razor as close to the same angle as the glass as possible. If you want to try the steel wool route first, I'd suggest starting with 0000 grade, which is usually the finest. Again, use it on a lubricated surface. You can try a mixture of distilled water and vinegar as your lube for some extra bite. If you think the glass is stained instead of contaminated, then I would try an AIO product on it. Hope this helps and good luck! If neither of that works, I'd recommend seeking the advice of a glass repair shop.

Originally Posted by arabbmw

George,

First off i wanted to say thank you for answering all these questions, it really is an amazing thing your doing. My question is, what would you reccomend as a one step polish that will do a decent amount of correction with out leaving any haze or very little haze. Ill be using a pc by the way. im planning on following it up with zaino aio and z2 or the klasse twins so i figure those might remove any little bit of haze left. but i would really like to not have to worry about haze. What do you think?

Well it depends on what you consider decent amount of correction. If you're trying to tackle moderate swirls, then I'd suggest something like Menzerna Super Intensive Polish. When used properly on a white pad, chance are it won't leave behind a haze. If there is any haze left behind, the Z-AIO should be capable of cleaning it up. If the imperfections are very light and really right on the surface, then consider PO106FF polish. This is less aggressive than Super Intensive Polish, but still does a good job on removing micro-marring and haze from more aggressive polishes. SIP will definitely correct a lot more than PO106FF but it runs a higher risk of leaving behind a little haze (again, probably something the Z-AIO can remove, if anything is left behind). Your process and technique will play a major factor on if you can finish down without a haze. The PC doesn't have as much bite to it as a Flex 3401 or a rotary buffer, so you really have to make sure your product usage and your technique is on point for haze free results.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Originally Posted by BayerischeMW

when using the PC or Meguiar's G110/220, should the pad move clockwise, or not move at all? sometimes when i apply pressure, the pad stops going clockwise, and doesn't move, but the machine's motor still goes strong. i know the DA's oscillate, though. just wondering if i should allow the pad to move or not?

thanks!

The pad should still be spinning to achieve the best results. When you push down to the point the pad stops moving, as Picus mentioned, the motor just bogs down but keeps churning. The best working spot is to apply enough pressure to bog it down then back off just enough so the pad start spinning again. Keeping your pad fresh (or swapping it out for a new one) will also help maximize your results and prevent it from bogging down as quickly. Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by fll335

I have a question about polishing. When I polish (Menzermz IP) my car the product dries in like 20 seconds not like on the videos online. How can I get the product to last longer w/o drying?. Thanks

IP should last more than 20 seconds. What sized area are you working in? A good idea when you aren't getting the results or workability of a product is to shorten up your working area. Consider trying a 12" x 12" working area, which is pretty small, but usually will help. Also what is the conditions you are working the polish in? (outside? temp? in sun or shade? etc.) Also, how much product are you using? What is your application method? (what machine, pad size, color, etc.)

Answering these questions should help narrow down where the problem is and hopefully we can get you some longer work time. Some people will mix some Clear Kote Red Moose Glaze in with IP or Power Gloss to help give it some more work time. Next time you're ready for another medium polish, consider upgrading to Super Intensive Polish as that gives longer work time as well (and finishes down finer).

Hope that helps.

George

[Detailed Image]

Gang, I'll be away from 6/24/08 until 6/30/08, so any questions you may have, please direct them to our support e-mail for fastest response. I apologize for any inconvenience. The trip is detailing related, so hopefully I can come back with some more insight on how to get your car looking it's best!

Thanks for understanding,

George

[col4bin]

George, I sent you a private message. I hope that is ok.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by col4bin

George, I sent you a private message. I hope that is ok.

Not a problem, I plan on getting to it shortly.

George

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Joey Babs

George, one last thing i forgot to ask. I washed my car on sat and i dunno if it was b/c BMW laid down some over spray on the tire dressing but the brake dust was CAKED on only after 1 week of moderate driving.... is there any "safe" wheel cleaner?? I know to look for cleaners that arent supposed to be used on uncoated wheels.... Any suggestions, i was thinking about CG Wheel and Rim Citrus Cleaner...... Sidenote: has anyone used the CG Grime Reaper, i have some sling on my car and just wondering if its worth it to get this too or just use some of the detailing spray that comes with clay bars and a MF towel and some elbow grease?

One of the safest, and most effective, wheel cleaners available is P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner. It's pH balanced and safe for virtually any type of wheel. The best thing is you can let it dwell on the wheels for up to a couple hours as it cleans.

For tire sling, a quick detailer and MF towel should do the trick. If not, try using a clay bar. If neither of those do the trick, then look into a chemical cleaner.

Hope this helps, thanks for your patience on the reply.

Cheers,

George

[chicagosteve]

Hi George, Thanks for all the info on this site, its been very helpful. I've had my car for about 6 months, I clayed it and put multiple layers of Zaino on soon after receiving it. I noticed that there is an area on the door where there is a paint scuff where it seems another door touched mine. It doesn't seem to have gone through my paint. I was thinking about claying, using Mernerza PO85RD just for that area, and then a new layer of Zaino. Should the PO85RD take car of it? Can I apply it by hand considering it is such a small area? Is there a better product that you would recommend?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Steve

[Chris J]

What Is The Best Polishing Pad To Use With Menzerna Sip And Menzerna 106ff?
I Have Tried Sip With A Lc Ccs Pad And It Seems To Run All Over The Place Gripping And Jumping Around On The Paint. Ive Tried Less Product More Product, Hot Paint Cold Paint...dont Know What Im Doing Wrong. Any Advice Will Help.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Joey Babs

George is awesome!!!! I would HIGHLY recommend anyone looking for some excellent products for a great price. They have an excellent website/team to support the users/ buyer and make them feel like they are part of a community. They supply them with excellent knowledge to give the customer the confidence to try these techniques on their own. This along with EXCELLENT customer service makes detailedimage.com a no brainer when looking for top notch detailing products Second to none!

Thanks for the kind words Joe. Your support is greatly appreciated!

Originally Posted by chicagosteve

Hi George, Thanks for all the info on this site, its been very helpful. I've had my car for about 6 months, I clayed it and put multiple layers of Zaino on soon after receiving it. I noticed that there is an area on the door where there is a paint scuff where it seems another door touched mine. It doesn't seem to have gone through my paint. I was thinking about claying, using Mernerza PO85RD just for that area, and then a new layer of Zaino. Should the PO85RD take car of it? Can I apply it by hand considering it is such a small area? Is there a better product that you would recommend?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Steve

If the scuff is because of paint transfer from another door, using a clay bar may remove it. If there are scratches left underneath, I doubt PO85RD is going to remove them. 85RD is VERY mild, it's often used after a complete polishing job just to enhance the gloss and depth, not to remove imperfections. I think you'd have better luck with PO106FF if scratches remain under the paint transfer / scuff. You can give it a shot certainly if you have 85RD already on hand. If it's very light the friction and heat from the pad may remove some minor imperfections. Keep us posted on how things turn out. After claying and polishing, be sure to reapply Zaino in the areas you worked on.

Originally Posted by Chris J

What Is The Best Polishing Pad To Use With Menzerna Sip And Menzerna 106ff?
I Have Tried Sip With A Lc Ccs Pad And It Seems To Run All Over The Place Gripping And Jumping Around On The Paint. Ive Tried Less Product More Product, Hot Paint Cold Paint...dont Know What Im Doing Wrong. Any Advice Will Help.

Personally, I'm not a fan of the CCS pads at all, which is why we don't carry them. I find better control with the flat pads, although they can bog down quicker. I usually work SIP with an orange light cutting pad and PO106FF with a white polishing pad. If I'm burnishing the paint for more gloss, I'll use a black or blue pad with PO106FF or 85RD, but for removing imperfections, usually a white pad.

Certain polishes can act differently on certain types of paint. I've had the best luck using less product in a smaller area, rather than spreading it out too thin in a larger area.

Hope this helps.

George

[G-Mach1]

Not sure whether any one had asked this before. I have been using Zaino to detail my car. I found DIY in the forum and I used that to detail my car and I am extremely happy with it. But I am wondering between Zaino and CG which one is better? Is the a DIY is available for CG?
Thanks

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by G-Mach1

Not sure whether any one had asked this before. I have been using Zaino to detail my car. I found DIY in the forum and I used that to detail my car and I am extremely happy with it. But I am wondering between Zaino and CG which one is better? Is the a DIY is available for CG?
Thanks

Zaino is probably going to be more durable for you in the long haul. In terms of looks, I'd probably vote the CG line because of the depth and gloss a good carnauba wax can bring. CG is also probably easier to work with and less steps. Looks are subjective though, you have to find what you like best and stick with it.

I don't know of any specific CG DIY guides, but basically you'd follow the steps in our Auto Detailing Guide and just plug in the appropriate CG product(s) for each category.

If you have any specific questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

[G-Mach1]

Thanks George.

[gmazet]

Just sent a c-note to DI... let's see what gets in first, the microfibers or the car..

nice store DI!

[ChuckD]

Why don't you ship to APO addresses? I had about 10 things in my cart, went to check out... but you only ship FEDEX. Blah.

[gmazet]

Originally Posted by gmazet

Just sent a c-note to DI... let's see what gets in first, the microfibers or the car..

nice store DI!

wow, they are fast! Got my stuff yesterday.

I have a full array of detailing products sitting ready one day ahead of delivery (today at 3:00 W00T!!!!!)

I will be a repeat customer of DI.