[Antoans4]

I install the JBD on thursday set up at 80%, i have been driving the car normal for the first 5-10min after morning start. Today i was coming back to my house and i step on the car a couple times and then the check engine light came on, i step on it but it does not feel as fast anymore, car drives normal but it feels stock. Did it go to safe mode? If i buy the tool scan from burgertuning and i delete the codes will the power come back?

[Puerto Rican 335d]

Thats one reason I have RENNtech although JBD is very good for the price I did not want this nightmare, get it scanned it probably is in SAfe mode, eventually the car will catch up with the program

[Antoans4]

I know what u saying but with the ecu flash when you have a recall and they have to reflash the ecu at the dealer, you will lose the tune

[Puerto Rican 335d]

very true amigo it already has happened, so we are both SOL jajajajajaj

[FormerRotor]

Originally Posted by Antoans4

I install the JBD on thursday set up at 80%, i have been driving the car normal for the first 5-10min after morning start. Today i was coming back to my house and i step on the car a couple times and then the check engine light came on, i step on it but it does not feel as fast anymore, car drives normal but it feels stock. Did it go to safe mode? If i buy the tool scan from burgertuning and i delete the codes will the power come back?

If it will give you a little half-engine warning symbol if it is in limp mode. I would definitely invest in a BMW-friendly OBD tool. So that you can clear codes when/if needed.

[cssnms]

Originally Posted by Antoans4

I install the JBD on thursday set up at 80%, i have been driving the car normal for the first 5-10min after morning start. Today i was coming back to my house and i step on the car a couple times and then the check engine light came on, i step on it but it does not feel as fast anymore, car drives normal but it feels stock. Did it go to safe mode? If i buy the tool scan from burgertuning and i delete the codes will the power come back?

Did the half engine light come on your dash/nav screen? It is possible your car went into limp mode. If you shut it off and resart it shoudl go away although the SES light might remain on. Connect your BT cable view/erase the codes and the light will go off.

[NRG]

Get the CANtool from BMS. The cheapest weapon against CELs and limps caused by JBD.

[335dFan]

Has anyone used the Scan Gauge 2 tool that you can get for about $150 at AutoZone? From what I can tell it should work fine, but wondered if anyone had any experience with it on the BMW? Jack

[Antoans4]

Originally Posted by cssnms

Did the half engine light come on your dash/nav screen? It is possible your car went into limp mode. If you shut it off and resart it shoudl go away although the SES light might remain on. Connect your BT cable view/erase the codes and the light will go off.

The check engine light came on the Dash and is part of the Family now, it wont go away

[FormerRotor]

Originally Posted by OldMan335dOwner

Has anyone used the Scan Gauge 2 tool that you can get for about $150 at AutoZone? From what I can tell it should work fine, but wondered if anyone had any experience with it on the BMW? Jack

Hi, Jack,

I would suspect that this would work for the basics, but you would not be able to view the BMW-specific codes or any shadow codes. I have a pretty decent Actron guage which does not view the shadow codes either (although it is good to use for the clear-language display on standard codes and various mapping functions.

The bottom of the barrel BMS guage is not exactly a User Interface marvel,but it does the trick for viewing and clearing the shadow codes which can have an affect on BMWs views of your warranty. If you want something nicer or more intuitive, I believe that many recommend bavtechnic (sp?).

Hope this helps!

[cssnms]

Originally Posted by Antoans4

The check engine light came on the Dash and is part of the Family now, it wont go away

Did you get the BT cable with your jbd? Erase the code causing the light and it will go away - it's likey the code related to fuel pressure.

[Antoans4]

I didn't get the code reader, i was looking on line and saw the one on Bavarian Autosport, i know is more money $179 but is it worthy to get it or just go with the JBD one

[cssnms]

Originally Posted by Antoans4

I didn't get the code reader, i was looking on line and saw the one on Bavarian Autosport, i know is more money $179 but is it worthy to get it or just go with the JBD one

That appears to be a generic code reader which will spit out generic fault codes - not BMW codes and not much unlike what you can buy at your local auto parts store. I also do not see where it would have the capability to read/delete "shadow" codes.

Personally, I would stick with a Baverian Technic OBDII cable or alternatively go with the CAN tool/reader if all you want to do do is read/delete tune related codes. The BT cable provides a lot more functionality such as data logging things like AFR's, intake temps, EGT etc...

http://burgertuning.com/CAN_reader_tool_for_BMW.html

[dzlmoose]

Did anyone notice the JBD is out of stock?

[cssnms]

Originally Posted by dzlmoose

Did anyone notice the JBD is out of stock?

Not here... http://www.n54tuning.com/index.php?_...Id=60&notice=1

[PSEE]

caveat emptor!

[FormerRotor]

Originally Posted by PSEE

caveat emptor!

Lol, in this case I have to agree with you as most folks if doing research would've purchased a Scantool capable of clearing codes concurrently with the purchase of the JBD. However, I believe that you were implying a different connotation. I'm rusty on my Latin, how do you say "make sure that you rule out installation of an installed product as the cause for error before blaming the product itself?"

Oleum Aduro.

[Antoans4]

I clear the codes with the JBD instal, are u suppose to take it out when u are deleting the codes? I also notice it still feels like stock, do i have to wait for a little before the ECU get used to the jbd

[cssnms]

Originally Posted by Antoans4

I clear the codes with the JBD instal, are u suppose to take it out when u are deleting the codes? I also notice it still feels like stock, do i have to wait for a little before the ECU get used to the jbd

No you do not need to remove the JBD to delete codes. I would however check to make sure your JBD connection to the rail pressure sensor is tight. Better yet, you might want to unclip and reclip it to make sure you have a good connection.

[FormerRotor]

Originally Posted by Antoans4

I clear the codes with the JBD instal, are u suppose to take it out when u are deleting the codes? I also notice it still feels like stock, do i have to wait for a little before the ECU get used to the jbd

You don't have to. What is the JBD set to? Depending on your setting, I would say you'll feel the biggest difference from 0-40 and from 80-on.

I did a comparo with another member today and we found that the side-by-side difference b/n JBD (@90%) and stock is noticeable but nothing dramatic from 30-80. We ran a few times from 30/40 to 100/110 using stock shift points and (while there was a difference) the difference was fairly nominal (maybe a car length or two?). My suspicion is that a 0 to 100 run would be somewhat more noticeable, but tough to arrange safely on an off-track comparison.

[Antoans4]

Originally Posted by cssnms

No you do not need to remove the JBD to delete codes. I would however check to make sure your JBD connection to the rail pressure sensor is tight. Better yet, you might want to unclip and reclip it to make sure you have a good connection.

Ill do that when i get home

[Antoans4]

Originally Posted by FormerRotor

You don't have to. What is the JBD set to? Depending on your setting, I would say you'll feel the biggest difference from 0-40 and from 80-on.

I did a comparo with another member today and we found that the side-by-side difference b/n JBD (@90%) and stock is noticeable but nothing dramatic from 30-80. We ran a few times from 30/40 to 100/110 using stock shift points and (while there was a difference) the difference was fairly nominal (maybe a car length or two?). My suspicion is that a 0 to 100 run would be somewhat more noticeable, but tough to arrange safely on an off-track comparison.

I have it set up @ 80%, the only reason why i did not bought the tool scan was because i bought it use from a guy that his lease was going to expire