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      12-13-2007, 12:39 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elbert View Post
So then why did you start out with a 335xi? At least start with the rwd version.

You don't have to rationalize your decisions to a bunch of random people most of whom you will never meet. But if you feel the need to convince these people (and yourself), at least come up with a better reason than that.
lol, once again, the 335xi was a practical car for me given where I am physically and where I am in life. What I mean by I'd rather start with a platform is ok, given a car....the 335, now what can we do to make it better. Well obviously we can make it more powerful, but it has some pretty blatant handling weaknesses that we should probably address first. I don't see a fault in starting with the xi anyway, both have their pros and cons.
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      12-14-2007, 03:37 PM   #46
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get a 240 and drop a sr20 Black Top and get ready to ride
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      12-16-2007, 01:04 PM   #47
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Hotchkis hollow sways (not yet available), some coilovers, and some of the brake kits lower unsprung weight and have big performance benefits.

Too bad we don't have a sunroof delete option.
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      12-16-2007, 06:52 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stressdoc View Post
Too bad we don't have a sunroof delete option.
That was my hope, too. I've heard the motor and mounting frame add up to 30lbs or so, but that the frame serves a semi-structural purpose, so "disabling" it after the fact while leaving in the glass somehow isn't really an option.
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      12-16-2007, 10:10 PM   #49
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Buy an E36 m3

Those make for really strong track cars
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      09-13-2008, 11:09 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longodj View Post
Hey Guys,
So, at the last autocross I went to, a WRX STI demolished every BMW in its tracks. The STI is 3300 lbs. My brother has been eyeballing a Porsche Cayman S and will probably be getting one before next autocross season, and I'm trying to get him into autocross. The Cayman S is 3000 lbs. My roommate drives a Nissan 240sx. 2800lbs

Now, I drive a 6MT 335xi E90. 3800lbs. My brother has pretty much always beat me at everything (except anything technical but that's a whole nother story for a whole nother day), so I'm looking to drop some weight from my car.

Hopefully this thread will stand as a central place to find where to drop weight from our cars. I'm looking to drop at least 200 lbs while still "feeling" stock and being daily drivable....i.e. while keeping my girlfriend from killing me every time she gets in my car Maybe in a year or so I'll jump for nice racing seats reupholstered to match my Terra but that's a bit too deep for my pockets atm. So by daily drivable I mean keep all audio/nav components, A/C, etc.

I fully understand that this is sort of ridiculous so please do not flame me, if you don't have anything helpful to say relating to this issue please do not post. I also fully understand that our cars aren't necessarily designed to be light and aren't the greatest to start with if looking for light. I ALSO understand that weight isn't everything, but hell WHY NOT drop a few pounds right? I'm already on a diet

Here's what I have found so far, although I don't know of most of the exact weight savings numbers... I don't know if I will personally be able to get well....any of these before next season but if I can get an idea I might be able to scrap some together :-P

-Wheels/Non-RFT Tires (Unsprung): ~45lbs
-Lightweight Battery (Rear): ~40 lbs (stat by HP Autowerks)
-CF Hood (Front): ~30lbs
-CF Boot (Rear): ~15lbs
-Exhaust (Center): ~20lbs
-Removing rear seats (Rear): ?? (for track days...)
-Replacing front seats (Front): ~80lbs (stat by HP Autowerks)

SUGGESTIONS:
-Headers
-LTW Control Arms
-Interior Panelling
-FMIC
-Downpipes
-Intake

Anyone know of any other permanentish mods that dump weight without damaging daily drivability? Preferably the mods would be in the front to dampen that 53/47 or so split we have going.

Thanks,
Dave

UPDATE May 31, 2008: My car weighs in at 3740 with Kosei K1/Bridgestone RE01R
I was curious about the exact same issue with my E9X M3, and started a similiar thread on the other forum some time ago. I was able to remove about 25lb of stuff from the stock setup that does does not affect driveability. Based on my research, I calculated that the next 100lbs will cost something in the order of $15k when you consider weight reduction only (you obviously get other benefits such as slight hp gains and rotational intertia reduction and so on from exhaust and wheel mods). Anyway, I documented what I found here (some of those mods might be relevant to the 335):

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...ngs+benchmarks

Also, my E92 M3 came in 3497.5 lb on a scale at NHMS with half tank of gas, and no driver, which means it would come in at ~3550 lb with a full tank. (L: 1725.0 lbs
R: 1772.5 lbs) This is consistent with what magazines have been reporting.
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      09-13-2008, 09:42 PM   #51
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Can buy a dedicated track car and a used TAG Kart for $15K. Both will be faster for Autocross than a semi-stripped luxury sports sedan.

I understand what you're trying to do, but it seems just too hard.
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      09-14-2008, 12:12 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDomer View Post
Can buy a dedicated track car and a used TAG Kart for $15K. Both will be faster for Autocross than a semi-stripped luxury sports sedan.

I understand what you're trying to do, but it seems just too hard.
This was really an exercise, which quickly revealed that it's not worth it. I am indeed looking around for a dedicated track car, but I'd still like to take another 50 lbs off via wheels and exhaust from my DD. Those are solid mods for other reasons, and should cost me around $6k.
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      09-14-2008, 07:03 AM   #53
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Swap the xi for an i, you save 150-200 lbs. From there saving 200lbs will look much more interesting.
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      09-14-2008, 04:09 PM   #54
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chip it, drive the heck out of, get a 911 next time and don't worry about trying to make it 'win' at a DE... not worth the $
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      09-16-2008, 06:27 PM   #55
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I say, do whatever you want to your car...its YOUR car!
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      09-18-2008, 02:02 AM   #56
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I would get a CF hood to take some weight off the nose and top end of the vehicle.

Then get a pair of lightweight seats, you will not only lose weight, you will gain better driving position and get more feedback from your car.

Corner weight the car again and see where you are.

DP's will save you a few pounds, but not much. FMIC will only add weight.

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      09-18-2008, 07:51 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longodj View Post
Hey Guys,
So, at the last autocross I went to, a WRX STI demolished every BMW in its tracks. The STI is 3300 lbs. My brother has been eyeballing a Porsche Cayman S and will probably be getting one before next autocross season, and I'm trying to get him into autocross. The Cayman S is 3000 lbs. My roommate drives a Nissan 240sx. 2800lbs

Now, I drive a 6MT 335xi E90. 3800lbs. My brother has pretty much always beat me at everything (except anything technical but that's a whole nother story for a whole nother day), so I'm looking to drop some weight from my car.

Hopefully this thread will stand as a central place to find where to drop weight from our cars. I'm looking to drop at least 200 lbs while still "feeling" stock and being daily drivable....i.e. while keeping my girlfriend from killing me every time she gets in my car Maybe in a year or so I'll jump for nice racing seats reupholstered to match my Terra but that's a bit too deep for my pockets atm. So by daily drivable I mean keep all audio/nav components, A/C, etc.

I fully understand that this is sort of ridiculous so please do not flame me, if you don't have anything helpful to say relating to this issue please do not post. I also fully understand that our cars aren't necessarily designed to be light and aren't the greatest to start with if looking for light. I ALSO understand that weight isn't everything, but hell WHY NOT drop a few pounds right? I'm already on a diet

Here's what I have found so far, although I don't know of most of the exact weight savings numbers... I don't know if I will personally be able to get well....any of these before next season but if I can get an idea I might be able to scrap some together :-P

-Wheels/Non-RFT Tires (Unsprung): ~45lbs
-Lightweight Battery (Rear): ~40 lbs (stat by HP Autowerks)
-CF Hood (Front): ~30lbs
-CF Boot (Rear): ~15lbs
-Exhaust (Center): ~20lbs
-Removing rear seats (Rear): ?? (for track days...)
-Replacing front seats (Front): ~80lbs (stat by HP Autowerks)

SUGGESTIONS:
-Headers
-LTW Control Arms
-Interior Panelling
-FMIC
-Downpipes
-Intake

Anyone know of any other permanentish mods that dump weight without damaging daily drivability? Preferably the mods would be in the front to dampen that 53/47 or so split we have going.

Thanks,
Dave

UPDATE May 31, 2008: My car weighs in at 3740 with Kosei K1/Bridgestone RE01R
The reason I bought a 335... My CTS-V was a 4000# porker (who broke rear diffs all day). I thought I was ahead.
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      09-24-2008, 09:15 AM   #58
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Recaro's are calling your name!

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160615
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      10-02-2008, 09:13 PM   #59
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You could use a lightweight battery such such as a braille battery, some lightweight 18" wheels, a BBK, taking out your rear seats, taking out all your floor mats, lightweight body panels (hood, trunk, etc.), and racing seats are some things you can do to lighten up your car. You can also drain out your windshield washer fluid on trackdays. There is a thread on cayman club on what you can do to reuce weigh on your cayman. i would look at that. It has things as mild as taking out your floormats, to as extreme as removing your windows and replacing them with lexan and removing your taillights and headlights on trackdays. A lightweight titanium exhaust system will also help you shed some weight.
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      10-02-2008, 11:02 PM   #60
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our cars arent meant to be track cars... if you want a track car, just get an s2000 or an evo RS.

But I do agree, our cars are pretty heavy, what can you do? I guess you can shave off some weight and mod up your car with 100 octane to make up for the weight.
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      11-20-2011, 12:43 PM   #61
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what about just starting with ~3100 C5 vette for $10k, and parts are cheap. I wouldnt want to hurt the 335i engine its $$$.

LSx stuff is sooooooo cheap = great track cars, interior quality doesnt matter at the track. Why pay extra for a bmw if your going to gut and beat the crap out of it anyways. yes track time = beating the crap out of it no matter how u cut it.

I appreciate the C6 vette after it was my office during the bondurant classes, they really do perform as advertised on the track, still wouldnt want one everyday.
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      11-22-2011, 07:33 PM   #62
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Simply put you aren't going to be running FTD or anything in a 335i but it can be a fairly capable car. Taking out weight is a great way to improve the performance but its really not worth the diminishing returns of spending all the cash on CF up to a certain point. You'll end up ruining your daily driver the more you change it.

My suggestions:
-Lightweight rims (SSRs, Koseis or Apex)
-Rip the backseats out for autox (takes 20min), reinstall as necessary
-Lightweight seats are great

Stop there... improve the nut behind the wheel. If you like it enough... buy a 2nd car and build it to your driving style. Get rides with others, see what you like, see what drivers are doing differently. Ask them to drive your car... you'll find out what you need to work on.

Another thing no one has really mentioned is to check your alignment settings. You need to have some pretty serious camber to compete in an autox. For my E36 I try to spec it out to -3F/-2.5R.
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      07-24-2012, 12:09 AM   #63
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+1
key element in any upgrade is suspension and tires. They would even allow u any mporker around track faster than u can imaging. Suspension has improved my lap time ridiculously without even having to add power. Stay planted and carry speed= better time
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      07-24-2012, 06:08 AM   #64
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Just register a second number with his Porsche and kick his butt with his own car.

Barrowed cars are faster!
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      07-24-2012, 08:08 AM   #65
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Funny, at the autox that I participate in (with the Porsche club), there are variety of other cars, including a WRX, which does very well also. However, it is highly modified and the the driver is very good.

I know the feeling, you want to go faster, but no matter what, there are limitations to what you can do with your car and doing all the things you suggested would ruin it. I personally race a 335d, and it's hardly the ideal autox car either, but you know what? I get a lot more respect from others for doing well in this car, than I would if I had a fast light car.

I just had an event this last Sunday and it was the first time I had good tires since starting with autox. I recently got some Yokohama Advan Ad08's. The event before that I had added some suspension mods, but the tires made a bigger difference. If you are just doing it for fun and aren't competing in any specific class, then I would save the money for all the weight saving mods you suggested and buy a set of dedicated track wheels and put the stickiest tires possible on it. That will give you the biggest time gains of any mod. If you have a higher budget, then I would do what others have suggested and get a dedicated track car. BTW, the e36's, stripped and prepped a little are very competitive as well, right there with the WRX.
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      08-15-2012, 12:29 PM   #66
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My car is at 3415 with all my weight reduction stuff. HOWEVER, I do have a somewhat heavy roll bar in the back and rear diffuser. With these add-ons I am actually at a perfect 50/50 front/rear and cross balance. baller.
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