[Topless///M]

So how'd you do? Are those suckers on? AR's? MS's? $4000 really that much I was thinking like $500-1000 hah! sorry for the thread jack OP, but this is a moment lol

[hotrod182]

Originally Posted by Topless///M

So how'd you do? Are those suckers on? AR's? MS's? $4000 really that much I was thinking like $500-1000 hah! sorry for the thread jack OP, but this is a moment lol

I have the stock down pipe clamps off, unbolted from the exhaust, rear 02 sensors unplugged, and front O2 sensors removed. I still can't get one of the DPs off of the rear bracket locating pin. And I can't get the other one to drop down at all. I assume I have to remove the front one first?

After this I still have to install the simms.

This is no quicky job. But I am taking my time with breaks in between. It is the long weekend luckily. Also, one of the OEM DP/Exhaust gaskets is literally falling apart. But I think I will be able to slip a new gasket in there later.

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by hotrod182

They are about $4000, but you can get other brands cheaper, or full size lifts. (I just don't have room above the rafters, and didn't want to drill holes in the concrete.

Wow thats nice man....I will get that one day for sure....Just need to get myself a two car garage and I am set...

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by hotrod182

I have the stock down pipe clamps off, unbolted from the exhaust, rear 02 sensors unplugged, and front O2 sensors removed. I still can't get one of the DPs off of the rear bracket locating pin. And I can't get the other one to drop down at all. I assume I have to remove the front one first?

After this I still have to install the simms.

This is no quicky job. But I am taking my time with breaks in between. It is the long weekend luckily. Also, one of the OEM DP/Exhaust gaskets is literally falling apart. But I think I will be able to slip a new gasket in there later.

You need to unbolt the exhaust clamp thats holding the midpipes and the DPs will have room to come right out....Without that brace taken off there is no play with the exhaust!!

[Topless///M]

yes what cn555 said.....it will allow you to move the exhaust towards the back of the car giving you clearance to take the stock ones out as well as install the new ones. Oh, and bend that bracket a little to make it clear that pin easier. First take the inside one off first, then the outside one. When installing just do the reverse install outside one first then inside. Don't tighten band clamps all the way until you've tightened rear flanges and rotated pipes in right position (I'd apply anti-seize on the 4 flange bolts). Then tighten midpipe clamp last.

I also took my time first install, and I know it is a long job way over 3 hrs the first time, especially when you wanna do it right without climbing back under there. I'm just excited that you finally took the plunge. They are a pita to install especially without the right tools. One thing I noticed after the install was less ummph off the line when you tap the gas, I guess cause there's less back pressure, but that's for another thread.

[alpinedevil335]

Originally Posted by hotrod182

I have the stock down pipe clamps off, unbolted from the exhaust, rear 02 sensors unplugged, and front O2 sensors removed. I still can't get one of the DPs off of the rear bracket locating pin. And I can't get the other one to drop down at all. I assume I have to remove the front one first?

After this I still have to install the simms.

This is no quicky job. But I am taking my time with breaks in between. It is the long weekend luckily. Also, one of the OEM DP/Exhaust gaskets is literally falling apart. But I think I will be able to slip a new gasket in there later.

Removing the midpipe support clamp will help. Gives you a little more wiggle room.

[hotrod182]

Originally Posted by Topless///M

yes what cn555 said.....it will allow you to move the exhaust towards the back of the car giving you clearance to take the stock ones out as well as install the new ones. Oh, and bend that bracket a little to make it clear that pin easier. First take the inside one off first, then the outside one. When installing just do the reverse install outside one first then inside. Don't tighten band clamps all the way until you've tightened rear flanges and rotated pipes in right position (I'd apply anti-seize on the 4 flange bolts). Then tighten midpipe clamp last.

I also took my time first install, and I know it is a long job way over 3 hrs the first time, especially when you wanna do it right without climbing back under there. I'm just excited that you finally took the plunge. They are a pita to install especially without the right tools. One thing I noticed after the install was less ummph off the line when you tap the gas, I guess cause there's less back pressure, but that's for another thread.

Wow,I thought less back pressure would make them spool up faster, and better off the line response?

I have the down pipes located in, the clamps definitely do not close all the way up like they did with the OEM downpipes. Yes, that is even with about 30lbs to torque, and hearing them creak. But since both front and rear have about the same gap, I guess I am okay.

Furthermore, getting the rear of the downpipes to line up exactly with the OEM catback is pretty inexact, especially when lining them up with the rear downpipe bracket too. I figure, the downpipes can rotate a little in the turbo housing, but where they finally locate is going to be final. So the rear exhaust, I suppose being the last thing, as long was the bolt holes are close enough to get the bolts through, I should just torque them down and that should finish the job.

And the gaskets are flaking apart too. But the dealership is closed, and they are like $29 each??

And of course I still have to install the simms. I wonder if I can test drive some before the simms, and the only harm is the CEL? Or will it run like crap?

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by hotrod182

Wow,I thought less back pressure would make them spool up faster, and better off the line response?

I have the down pipes located in, the clamps definitely do not close all the way up like they did with the OEM downpipes. Yes, that is even with about 30lbs to torque, and hearing them creak. But since both front and rear have about the same gap, I guess I am okay.

Furthermore, getting the rear of the downpipes to line up exactly with the OEM catback is pretty inexact, especially when lining them up with the rear downpipe bracket too. I figure, the downpipes can rotate a little in the turbo housing, but where they finally locate is going to be final. So the rear exhaust, I suppose being the last thing, as long was the bolt holes are close enough to get the bolts through, I should just torque them down and that should finish the job.

And the gaskets are flaking apart too. But the dealership is closed, and they are like $29 each??

And of course I still have to install the simms. I wonder if I can test drive some before the simms, and the only harm is the CEL? Or will it run like crap?

Hmm...my clamps are tightened just as much as there were before with the oem ones...In fact they almost touch each other at the connecting ends on both.....Are you sure that your have the clamps on fully seating the bellmouth? As for the gaskets flaking off, I was told it was normal and those gasket need not to be changed....Its the flakes of champions!! lol Those flakes were all over my eye lashings and face!

[alpinedevil335]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

Hmm...my clamps are tightened just as much as there were before with the oem ones...In fact they almost touch each other at the connecting ends on both.....Are you sure that your have the clamps on fully seating the bellmouth? As for the gaskets flaking off, I was told it was normal and those gasket need not to be changed....Its the flakes of champions!! lol Those flakes were all over my eye lashings and face!

My clamps also are as tight as if my oem pipes where on. And are almost touching like cn555ic said maybe they are not seated right.

[Topless///M]

since you don't have gaskets, I'm assuming you didn't get the AR's? Your main priority is clearance before tightening everything down. Get everything installed loosely (tighten band clamps enough so they can still be rotated, not all the way yet). Start to squeeze rear flanges together, but leave enough play so that you can rotate dps in turbo housing. Once you have enough clearance on all sides, tighten band clamps all the way, then flange bolts and lastly midpipe brace. I like at least 1/2" of clearance from everything especially for outside dp to framerail/heatshield or motor mount.

As for the band clamps, that's odd make sure they're seated flat against turbos they should almost touch (like a 1/8" or less i'd say) maybe you have thicker machined bellmouths on your DP's?

I got the AR's and I was a little disappointed that I lost that ummph when you tap the gas, I did anyway, I know you would think you get more ummph with turbos and less back pressure, but I tell you it lost a little ummph only when you tap the gas....Maybe I'm going crazy? One other guy said the same thing over on N54 I believe. I think you'll just get a CEL, no harm, unless you reversed the O2 sensors which i doubt.

[cn555ic]

Hotrod...what Dps did you go with anyway...because another thing is the exhaust flanges on my AR dps lined up perfectly with my exhaust flange if its installed correctly at the bellmouth....if its not seated correctly at the bellmouth, then that may be why your exhaust flange is not lining up with the dp flange...look at this pic...when you start to take out the OEM Dps you can see the clamp is already pretty close together still and needs to be pryed open to unlock it from the bellmouth, and this pic is with the nut loosened..When you install the new dps the clamps should be fastened tight with the tip touching each other or almost for both the front and rear.....

[hotrod182]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

Hotrod...what Dps did you go with anyway...because another thing is the exhaust flanges on my AR dps lined up perfectly with my exhaust flange if its installed correctly at the bellmouth....if its not seated correctly at the bellmouth, then that may be why your exhaust flange is not lining up with the dp flange...look at this pic...when you start to take out the OEM Dps you can see the clamp is already pretty close together still and needs to be pryed open to unlock it from the bellmouth, and this pic is with the nut loosened..When you install the new dps the clamps should be fastened tight with the tip touching each other or almost for both the front and rear.....

I picked up a set of URs. For being 2yrs old, they hardly have any corrosion. Once I preinstalled them, I tried loosening the clamps and the downpipes and the clamp are hard to rotate even after I loosen them up. Its kind of like they squeeze the down pipes onto the turbo to the point where you can't even rotate the downpipe when I am trying to line up the DP to the rear exhaust flange, even though I totally loosened the clamp. And the clamp kind of locks onto the flange, so its hard to rotate, because at least half of it is still clamping the turbo together. Both UR DPs have about the same gap between the clamps, so I am almost thinking of leaving it that way and tightening up the rear exhaust flange, which really isn't aligned perfectly . You can see a picture here of the clamp gaps, and the rear flange gap, and misalignment.

I'm thinking If I tighten the rear exhaust flange, the DP/Turbo flange may not seat properly when I tighten the band up there. So I think I will retighten the turbo band clamps, the rear DP hanger, and then just go ahead and tighten the rear exhaust/DP flange.

Also. looking at your picture, is your upper turbo DP clamps really that corroded compared to mine? Or is that just the photography?

[Alex@AKMotorwerk]

Originally Posted by hotrod182

I picked up a set of URs. For being 2yrs old, they hardly have any corrosion. Once I preinstalled them, I tried loosening the clamps and the downpipes and the clamp are hard to rotate even after I loosen them up. Its kind of like they squeeze the down pipes onto the turbo to the point where you can't even rotate the downpipe when I am trying to line up the DP to the rear exhaust flange, even though I totally loosened the clamp. And the clamp kind of locks onto the flange, so its hard to rotate, because at least half of it is still clamping the turbo together. Both UR DPs have about the same gap between the clamps, so I am almost thinking of leaving it that way and tightening up the rear exhaust flange, which really isn't aligned perfectly . You can see a picture here of the clamp gaps, and the rear flange gap, and misalignment.

I'm thinking If I tighten the rear exhaust flange, the DP/Turbo flange may not seat properly when I tighten the band up there. So I think I will retighten the turbo band clamps, the rear DP hanger, and then just go ahead and tighten the rear exhaust/DP flange.

Also. looking at your picture, is your upper turbo DP clamps really that corroded compared to mine? Or is that just the photography?

keep the dp/turbo clamps a bit loose and tighten the dp/exhaust flange bolts fully... then go back and tighten the dp/turbo clamps all the way. This will allow you some play in getting the dp's lined up perfect with the exhaust. also, different DP's make the turbo clamps tighten more than others. The AR Design DP's have the best fit that i've seen and those clamps tighten all the way... VK, RR and i believe UR as well do not tighten all the way, yours seem fine. Just make sure the clamp is seated properly all the way around the turbo/flange. You will need to do this all by feel as you can't see.

[Topless///M]

Originally Posted by hotrod182

I tried loosening the clamps and the downpipes and the clamp are hard to rotate even after I loosen them up. Its kind of like they squeeze the down pipes onto the turbo to the point where you can't even rotate the downpipe when I am trying to line up the DP to the rear exhaust flange, even though I totally loosened the clamp. And the clamp kind of locks onto the flange, so its hard to rotate, because at least half of it is still clamping the turbo together.

In order to get the other half of the band clamp loose again. Smack the edge of it with a flat head, I know its super tight and hard to work in there. Or go from the engine bay with a long ass 3/8" drive extension. Oh the fun, watch you don't smack it completely loose cause then you'll have to play blind again getting them back on. Then tighten just enough so they stay seated flat and dp's can rotate. Clearance with the UR's should'nt be a problem, I was thinking you got 3" pipes, and boy did I have issues with mine. 3" ers are tight to begin with and they did not fit perfectly. I had to get a replacement one where AR took care of me. You're probably done by now though....

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by hotrod182

I picked up a set of URs. For being 2yrs old, they hardly have any corrosion. Once I preinstalled them, I tried loosening the clamps and the downpipes and the clamp are hard to rotate even after I loosen them up. Its kind of like they squeeze the down pipes onto the turbo to the point where you can't even rotate the downpipe when I am trying to line up the DP to the rear exhaust flange, even though I totally loosened the clamp. And the clamp kind of locks onto the flange, so its hard to rotate, because at least half of it is still clamping the turbo together. Both UR DPs have about the same gap between the clamps, so I am almost thinking of leaving it that way and tightening up the rear exhaust flange, which really isn't aligned perfectly . You can see a picture here of the clamp gaps, and the rear flange gap, and misalignment.

I'm thinking If I tighten the rear exhaust flange, the DP/Turbo flange may not seat properly when I tighten the band up there. So I think I will retighten the turbo band clamps, the rear DP hanger, and then just go ahead and tighten the rear exhaust/DP flange.

Also. looking at your picture, is your upper turbo DP clamps really that corroded compared to mine? Or is that just the photography?

From the pics, it looks like its seated correctly, but like NJ323ci stated bolt on the exhaust part on then tighten the turbo clamps...The pics I posted were not from my car, as mine looks as clean and prestine as yours!
Also NJ323ci has more experience with DP install, and if he is saying your turbo clamps are tightened enough because of UR bellmouth fitment, then you should definitely be good...He and his partner Kevin has installed well over 60 pairs of DPs...

[ncsof18c]

I just picked up a set of RR catless DPs from another user on the board. He had ordered them in the last GB going back to September. Now I'm waiting to get home from OEF to install.

Two ?s:
1: Am I to assume that these are the batch which were manufactured overseas?

2: Is the issue with the O2 sensors touching, unique to Catted DPs only?

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by ncsof18c

I just picked up a set of RR catless DPs from another user on the board. He had ordered them in the last GB going back to September. Now I'm waiting to get home from OEF to install.

Two ?s:
1: Am I to assume that these are the batch which were manufactured overseas?

2: Is the issue with the O2 sensors touching, unique to Catted DPs only?

Wow...I don't think there can be anyone that can answer that question for you because there are so many versions of RR dp that are out and manufactured from different locations...The only thing is to try to mock it up and see if the 02 bungs cross each other...Thats the only way other than actually installing them and then to find out...I would try to mock up the dps first

[Kevin@AKMotorwerk]

Originally Posted by CJCIII

I am installing a set of Riss Racing downpipes and have run into an issue. Where the downpipes mate up to the turbos the 02 sensors in that area cannot be installed because they cross into each other. I cannot rotate the pipes enough to get them to line up to where this does not happen. Has anyone else run into this issue and what would be the cause of this?

Thanks for your help - the car is sitting on jackstands in my garage right now and I'm at a dead end.

Chuck

i ran into that problem installing a set of riss dp's, after about an hour of repositioning them i got it to work, but you could barely put a piece of paper between the two sensors, yours sound like they are completely interfering with each other tho. plug the bung with a bolt and have a new one welded on, or get a set of ar design pipes and be done with it

[ar design]

Originally Posted by sexye92

i ran into that problem installing a set of riss dp's, after about an hour of repositioning them i got it to work, but you could barely put a piece of paper between the two sensors, yours sound like they are completely interfering with each other tho. plug the bung with a bolt and have a new one welded on, or get a set of ar design pipes and be done with it

Yeah, you don't want them that close together....

FYI, if you weld a new bung in, you're going to have to grind some coating off..... may eventually cause coating to fail unless you re-coat.