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      04-28-2018, 05:21 PM   #1
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M3 Control arms, unsure if dealer aligned correctly?

Installed my M3 control arms for the front the other day with B6/stock springs. I went to get an alignment today at the dealer. I told them to max the camber in the front but he said they were not adjustable. Here is the spec sheet they printed out.

I was was thinking the camber should be closer to -1 and not 0 even if they can't adjust the camber?

Should I get the car realigned at a different shop? And should I pull the alignment pins before I go?

View post on imgur.com
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Last edited by cisf0rcalvin; 04-28-2018 at 05:35 PM..
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      04-28-2018, 06:25 PM   #2
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Can't comment on your spec sheet.

However, I'm curious: did you specifically instruct them to align the front to M3 specs, or did you just ask them to get the camber to a particular place?
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      04-28-2018, 06:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phyrexia View Post
Can't comment on your spec sheet.

However, I'm curious: did you specifically instruct them to align the front to M3 specs, or did you just ask them to get the camber to a particular place?
I didn't specially say align to M3 specs. I told them I installed M3 control arms and wanted the front to max camber which I guess they didn't bother touching because SA kept saying "camber not adjustable".

At the time, I figured with the longer M3 arms, it wouldn't matter anyway and that it would naturally give me the camber closer to -1.

I'm just so confused because I'm looking at other people's spec sheets and I see their camber moving!
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      04-28-2018, 07:00 PM   #4
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Did you replace all four arms?
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      04-28-2018, 07:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpete View Post
Did you replace all four arms?
Just the front
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      04-28-2018, 08:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cisf0rcalvin View Post
Just the front
Two arms on each side at the front wheel or one at each front wheel?
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      04-28-2018, 08:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpete View Post
Two arms on each side at the front wheel or one at each front wheel?
2 arms on each side. Did both upper and lower control arms.

Used this kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...rade-bmwmcakit
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      04-28-2018, 08:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cisf0rcalvin View Post
2 arms on each side. Did both upper and lower control arms.

Used this kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...rade-bmwmcakit
That will increase camber about half a degree and it isn't adjustable although the pins in the body at the upper strut mounts can be pulled so they can be shifted a bit to increase camber.
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      04-28-2018, 09:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpete View Post
That will increase camber about half a degree and it isn't adjustable although the pins in the body at the upper strut mounts can be pulled so they can be shifted a bit to increase camber.
Yeah that's what I figured too. I was just under the impression that my camber will be around -1 instead of -0.39. I think 0.39 is close to stock control arms? Cant tell a huge difference with the handling either.
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      04-28-2018, 09:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cisf0rcalvin View Post
Yeah that's what I figured too. I was just under the impression that my camber will be around -1 instead of -0.39. I think 0.39 is close to stock control arms? Cant tell a huge difference with the handling either.
Yeah, doesn't make a lot of sense. Handling won't be noticeably changed except that the steering will be more responsive and precise thanks to the stiff bushing in the tension strut.
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      04-29-2018, 12:01 AM   #11
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I'm not sure if this could affect camber but it affected my ride height, which, I guess, can affect your camber:

Did you tighten the control arm bolts while the vehicle was at ride height, or did you tighten them when the suspension was partially hanging?
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      04-29-2018, 01:09 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phyrexia View Post
I'm not sure if this could affect camber but it affected my ride height, which, I guess, can affect your camber:

Did you tighten the control arm bolts while the vehicle was at ride height, or did you tighten them when the suspension was partially hanging?
Yeah I did tighten them at ride height. I jacked the wheel hub up and tightened then that way. Maybe I'll just ask the shop to see if they can double check that component.
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      04-29-2018, 08:42 AM   #13
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Repair shop including the dealer are good as the techs working there. Ask them to re do it or go else where.
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      04-29-2018, 04:26 PM   #14
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Just knocked out the alignment pins and pushed the strut towers over. Took it for a spin. Car feels much better in the corners. Hopefully its not just in my head. We'll see the specs on the alignment tomorrow.
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      04-29-2018, 04:30 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cisf0rcalvin View Post
Just knocked out the alignment pins and pushed the strut towers over. Took it for a spin. Car feels much better in the corners. Hopefully its not just in my head. We'll see the specs on the alignment tomorrow.
That'll move your toe out, be sure to have it checked unless you want that quick steering response and don't mind the early tire wear.
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      04-29-2018, 06:19 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cisf0rcalvin View Post
Yeah I did tighten them at ride height. I jacked the wheel hub up and tightened then that way. Maybe I'll just ask the shop to see if they can double check that component.
That's exactly what I did when I installed my BMW Performance Suspension three weeks ago. I tried to jack the hub up until right before the whole chassis lifted off the jackstand. I warn you: this was not enough.

I bought some ramps and cycled the control arm bolts a couple days later, and the front end dropped about a half an inch. I have a thread about it: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1484539

I need tires so I still haven't aligned the car. I might go ahead and get these control arms in question when I get tires before the alignment.
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      05-01-2018, 02:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phyrexia View Post
That's exactly what I did when I installed my BMW Performance Suspension three weeks ago. I tried to jack the hub up until right before the whole chassis lifted off the jackstand. I warn you: this was not enough.

I bought some ramps and cycled the control arm bolts a couple days later, and the front end dropped about a half an inch. I have a thread about it: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1484539

I need tires so I still haven't aligned the car. I might go ahead and get these control arms in question when I get tires before the alignment.
So I got them to loosen the nuts and moved the car back and forth. Didn't budge haha. They even let me get under the car with them and have me take a look too. So the max they got was .7 with pins knocked out. I think it's because you have PS and I have stock springs with B6s maybe? Oh well, car with the new stuff still takes the corners a lot better.
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      05-01-2018, 02:03 PM   #18
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Tell the alignment shop to loosen the strut mount on the rack and retighten it, it will make your camber match left and right. Go to an alignment shop that does performance cars
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      05-01-2018, 06:42 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cisf0rcalvin View Post
Installed my M3 control arms for the front the other day with B6/stock springs. I went to get an alignment today at the dealer. I told them to max the camber in the front but he said they were not adjustable. Here is the spec sheet they printed out.

I was was thinking the camber should be closer to -1 and not 0 even if they can't adjust the camber?

Should I get the car realigned at a different shop? And should I pull the alignment pins before I go?

View post on imgur.com
M3 control arms or any arms in the front can not be given camber unless you install special camber plates. The only adjustment in the front is Toe via the tie rods.

In the rear, you have both camber and toe adjustments.

The magic behind the M3 control arms in the front is that rear one is longer than OEM, thus creating a .75 negative, natural camber.
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      05-02-2018, 08:21 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
M3 control arms or any arms in the front can not be given camber unless you install special camber plates. The only adjustment in the front is Toe via the tie rods.

The magic behind the M3 control arms in the front is that rear one is longer than OEM, thus creating a .75 negative, natural camber.
Not following...you just contradicted yourself. Also, after pulling the pin, there is a slight bit of adjustment there for camber; so yes, toe and camber are "adjustable" up front as well.

OP: Given that you're on non-sport springs is prob why you're getting unenthusiastic camber figures out of the front, even with the pins pulled. You can drop the car a little and that will help. You should add plates as well though! Makes a big difference.
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      05-02-2018, 08:40 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCobra94 View Post
Not following...you just contradicted yourself. Also, after pulling the pin, there is a slight bit of adjustment there for camber; so yes, toe and camber are "adjustable" up front as well.

OP: Given that you're on non-sport springs is prob why you're getting unenthusiastic camber figures out of the front, even with the pins pulled. You can drop the car a little and that will help. You should add plates as well though! Makes a big difference.
My non-sport 128i was able to get 1.4* with M3 arms and pins pulled (sitting on BMWP springs)

As for the alignment itself, it does not look all that great. They ended up with out-of-spec toe up front. Getting the toe even side-to-side might help even out the camber some, but, there appears to be a pretty big difference that might be due to something else. The rear settings aren't even side-to-side either. I'd get it re-aligned... for free.
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