[415swagon]

Kinda of a noob question, but I don't know too much about suspension-related things.

So anyways, I brought in my 07 335i coupe to a "high performance shop" for an alignment. After it was done, they told me that they stripped this bolt/screw or whatever this thing is because they had to get to it in order to adjust my camber and that it was way too tight.

Went to a friend right after this happened for a second opinion, and he told me that they shouldn't have even had to touch that thing to adjust the camber on my car. So I'm not sure if I brought my car to a bunch of people who had no clue what they were doing. What is this object called and was it necessary for them to do this?

[weehe126]

That is an alignment pin. Some (I think sport suspension) models have a removable pin while others dont. The shop was right that the only way to adjust camber is to remove it. However, if everything is straight camber should have been find and they didn't need to touch it. If everything came back in spec I wouldn't worry about it.

[415swagon]

Originally Posted by weehe126

That is an alignment pin. Some (I think sport suspension) models have a removable pin while others dont. The shop was right that the only way to adjust camber is to remove it. However, if everything is straight camber should have been find and they didn't need to touch it. If everything came back in spec I wouldn't worry about it.

Thanks a lot! If I remember correctly, it came back close in spec, but slightly off, but still in an acceptable range. I'm just worried about future alignments where it'd probably need adjusting since it's stripped now. I guess I can just drill it out and go from there?

[feuer]

Looks like they tried to remove the pin but failed hence your front end still being little off.

[PrematureApex]

That's not molded. That's the allen-headed pin. Get a pair of vice grips and remove it. Why the shop didn't I have no idea.

What qualifies as competent mechanics is laughable these days. At a minimum, these guys should have access to the internet.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by feuer

Looks like they tried to remove the pin but failed hence your front end still being little off.

agreed... I just had the discussion about camber with my local alignment shop. Without removing pins, I'm out of spec one one side. So, as it turns out, I'm replacing the front lower control arms to see if I can get everything spot on without moving the alignment pins. If not, i'll remove, push toward the motor and get the car back on the rack to see where it's at.

What does your alignment sheet say - are you in spec? If so, don't worry about it...

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

agreed... I just had the discussion about camber with my local alignment shop. Without removing pins, I'm out of spec one one side. So, as it turns out, I'm replacing the front lower control arms to see if I can get everything spot on without moving the alignment pins. If not, i'll remove, push toward the motor and get the car back on the rack to see where it's at.

What does your alignment sheet say - are you in spec? If so, don't worry about it...

Wait what?

Why wouldn't you pull the pins before replacing the arms???

That's why they're there!

All that aside, you've been posting eleventy threads about performance recently. If so, you should be wanting to add, quite literally, as much negative camber up front as you can given your mods. The first thing you should have done before going in for an alignment should have been to pull the pins, and max the front camber. Take what you can get, then set the toe.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

Wait what?

Why wouldn't you pull the pins before replacing the arms???

That's why they're there!

All that aside, you've been posting eleventy threads about performance recently. If so, you should be wanting to add, quite literally, as much negative camber up front as you can given your mods. The first thing you should have done before going in for an alignment should have been to pull the pins, and max the front camber. Take what you can get, then set the toe.

Eleventy doesn't even being to describe how many threads I've started.

A little background you don't have is that I had one of my summer wheels bent when I slammed into a massive pothole. It's that wheel which is slightly out in terms of camber. So, i'm replacing the wishbone (smaller, front, front control arms) under the likelihood that it's actually). I've got neg 1.4* to 1.6* at the rear and would like about -1 up front and will likely need camber plates to get there. I am - perhaps foolishly - trying to get the foundation as good as it can be before I move forward..

Appreciate all your comments.

PS - thinking about the Dinan fixed plates, which would allow me close to -1.5 or more. If I can get an easily adjustable range - AND quiet - that would be sweet. They're only $150 and install looks totally easy.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

I'm replacing the front lower control arms to see if I can get everything spot on without moving the alignment pins. If not, i'll remove

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

Wait what?
Why wouldn't you pull the pins before replacing the arms???
That's why they're there!

PrematureAlex I assume you miss read jwebb335xi post.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by feuer

PrematureAlex I assume you miss read jwebb335xi post.

?

No, I didn't.

The pins are to be removed in order to make minor camber adjustments, if necessary, when something else is slightly contributing to a camber number being out of spec.

The techs aligning his car should have already pulled them. And if they didn't, I'd be asking for the next alignment for free.

The pin is there, to be removed, for exactly his situation...prior to spending money replacing what may be perfectly good (or good enough) suspension arms.

What part about my post was unclear?

C/N: If you have a camber number that's slightly off, step 1 is certainly to pull the pins. Let alone if you're going for any kind of increased performance, they should have been pulled long ago.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

A little background you don't have is that I had one of my summer wheels bent when I slammed into a massive pothole. It's that wheel which is slightly out in terms of camber. So, i'm replacing the wishbone (smaller, front, front control arms) under the likelihood that it's actually)

I hope that replacing the cantrol arms will cure the issue. If the impact was severe enough the whole subframe could have shifted. I know this first hand. Had to loosen it up while car on the alignment rack then possition it fasten. Takes two tech to fasten both side simultaneously.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by feuer

I hope that replacing the cantrol arms will cure the issue. If the impact was severe enough the whole subframe could have shifted. I know this first hand. Had to loosen it up while car on the alignment rack then possition it fasten. Takes two tech to fasten both side simultaneously.

Thanks man! With any luck, the arms will get me back to the "norm". Then I can work on getting a bit more aggressive. Toe is good and the rear appears perfect. We'll see!

[PrematureApex]

If you pull the pins, and can't get the camber in spec, change the arm.

That's why they're there vs. just providing strut mount holes vs. slots!

[feuer]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

?

No, I didn't.

The pins are to be removed in order to make minor camber adjustments, if necessary, when something else is slightly contributing to a camber number being out of spec.

The techs aligning his car should have already pulled them.

The pin is there, to be removed, for exactly his situation...prior to spending money replacing what may be perfectly good (or good enough) suspension arms.

What part about my post was unclear?

Well, I don't need to explain now since jwebb335ix give you little history on his 335xi. I was expecting that you know since you commented on his frequent threads regarding his suspension. Jwebb335ix has legitimate reason to start with the control arms

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by feuer

Well, I don't need to explain now since jwebb335ix give you little history on his 335xi. I was expecting that you know since you commented on his frequent threads regarding his suspension. Jwebb335ix has legitimate reason to start with the control arms

Ummm...no...he's stated his camber on one side was slightly off. That's it.


But anyway...you're right. Uou certainly should be explaining anything, to anyone, regarding at least things suspension related.

Like recommending longer bumpstops with lowering springs. You just can't get top-shelf advice like that from anyone, on any forum.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

Like recommending longer bumpstops with lowering springs. You just can't get top-shelf advice like that from anyone, on any forum.

Yeah, yeah, I replied to you on that thread and if you think that your advice is better than Eibach engineers I can only be honored to have this small car talk with you

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by feuer

Yeah, yeah, I replied to you on that thread and if you think that your advice is better than Eibach engineers I can only be honored to have this small car talk with you

You're a complete idiot. Either they weren't for an E90, or you were suppose to use them IN REPLACEMENT of the stock bump stops.

Using longer bump stops with lowering springs is mouth-breathing stupid, and completely without any rational, technical basis.

Hence, springs come with instructions to either leave the stops alone, or shorting them a prescribed amount. Not make them longer.

Even the most cursory search on your part will reveal that you'd want to be shortening the stop, or leaving it alone. Not make it longer.







Show me the e90 Eibach lowering spring install instructions telling you to use an additional stop/limiter WITH the factory stop in place.

We'll wait.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by PrematureApex

You're a complete idiot. Either they weren't for an E90, or you were suppose to use them IN REPLACEMENT of the stock bump stops.

Using longer bump stops with lowering springs is mouth-breathing stupid, and completely without any rational, technical basis.

Hence, springs come with instructions to either leave the stops alone, or shorting them a prescribed amount. Not make them longer.

Even the most cursory search on your part will reveal that you'd want to be shortening the stop, or leaving it alone. Not make it longer.







Show me the e90 Eibach lowering spring install instructions telling you to use an additional stop/limiter WITH the factory stop in place.

We'll wait.

Honoroble people can disagree honorably. You are rude and insulting. I will not continue discussing with you.