[Chief Orman]

I just got a new transmission installed in my 2010 w/72k. I threw an 4f85 code (if memory serves). The transmission was replaced under warranty. Car drives one hell of a lot better. No big surprise but as one who replaced their fluid every 35k I am surprised at the dramatic difference.

[Si-M240i]

what were the symptoms ?

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Chief Orman

I just got a new transmission installed in my 2010 w/72k. I threw an 4f85 code (if memory serves). The transmission was replaced under warranty. Car drives one hell of a lot better. No big surprise but as one who replaced their fluid every 35k I am surprised at the dramatic difference.

This is unsettling.

[Chief Orman]

Originally Posted by Si-335d

what were the symptoms ?

Frankly I think my transmission was not one of the stronger units to roll off the ZF assembly line. It always felt mushy to me and was not smooth shifting between 2nd and 3rd under hard acceleration.

In addition, over the past two years I have run a variety of tuning boxes on high settings (e.g., JBD on 100%). I think the weak transmission plus the added torque was too much even with the fluid changes.

With that all said, there seem to be various kits in the UK that people have used to beef up their ZF transmission internals. Given that I plan on keeping my car for many years this is something I am going to more actively investigate.

I am surprised that there have not been more transmission failures reported on this site given that most of us seem to be running tunes. A good sign I suppose.

Finally, my transmission went into limp mode after accelerating hard with a powerful tuning box. New software was downloaded at the dealer but that did not fix the problem.

[Si-M240i]

Originally Posted by Chief Orman

Frankly I think my transmission was not one of the stronger units to roll off the ZF assembly line. It always felt mushy to me and was not smooth shifting between 2nd and 3rd under hard acceleration.

In addition, over the past two years I have run a variety of tuning boxes on high settings (e.g., JBD on 100%). I think the weak transmission plus the added torque was too much even with the fluid changes.

With that all said, there seem to be various kits in the UK that people have used to beef up their ZF transmission internals. Given that I plan on keeping my car for many years this is something I am going to more actively investigate.

I am surprised that there have not been more transmission failures reported on this site given that most of us seem to be running tunes. A good sign I suppose.

Finally, my transmission went into limp mode after accelerating hard with a powerful tuning box. New software was downloaded at the dealer but that did not fix the problem.

My gearbox is being investigated soon but I have thrown no limp modes, so guess they won't do a thing but I definitely have the clunky change form 2nd to 3rd under hard acceleration

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Si-335d

My gearbox is being investigated soon but I have thrown no limp modes, so guess they won't do a thing but I definitely have the clunky change form 2nd to 3rd under hard acceleration

Maybe you should contact your TCU tuner if the tune could be the problem.

[Si-M240i]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Maybe you should contact your TCU tuner if the tune could be the problem.

Done already and no contributory factor there and removed it and problem still exactly the same

[glitdi]

Do you have a link to the transmission beef up kit that you were reffering to?
Any threads etc... sounds like a sound investment.

[Hoooper]

Originally Posted by glitdi

Do you have a link to the transmission beef up kit that you were reffering to?
Any threads etc... sounds like a sound investment.

Its not really a transmission beef up kit, its more of a repair kit. Valves in the valve body slide a lot more than they used to due to PWM control, the kit just upgrades the components in the valve body so that they still seal with a worn valve body. Google "sonnax 6hp26" and you will find a bunch of stuff available. I think what he was referring to is the zip kit. The reality is, all our transmissions will need a valve body repair at some point in order to remedy the wear that happens in the valve body. Why they didnt think to use steel sleeves for a tube that sees a valve do as many oscillations as these do, I dont know. Weve known since the mid 90s or even earlier that PWM control leads to valve body wear, but steel sleeves can solve that issue and at least shift the wear to an easily replaced part.

[Chief Orman]

Originally Posted by Hoooper

Its not really a transmission beef up kit, its more of a repair kit. Valves in the valve body slide a lot more than they used to due to PWM control, the kit just upgrades the components in the valve body so that they still seal with a worn valve body. Google "sonnax 6hp26" and you will find a bunch of stuff available. I think what he was referring to is the zip kit. The reality is, all our transmissions will need a valve body repair at some point in order to remedy the wear that happens in the valve body. Why they didn't think to use steel sleeves for a tube that sees a valve do as many oscillations as these do, I don't know. Weve known since the mid 90s or even earlier that PWM control leads to valve body wear, but steel sleeves can solve that issue and at least shift the wear to an easily replaced part.

Hooper I think that is exactly right and my misunderstanding. That said, I spoke to a transmission shop in San Jose, CA and they seemed to imply they could beef up the valve body. However, upon reflection that doesn't really sound realistic given the valve body design of the 335d.

By the way, to have the valve body rebuilt was a quoted $1,300 repair. My question is how does one know to do the valve body rebuild before a more catastrophic failure of the transmission (large shards of steel in the transmission fluid)?

[Hoooper]

Originally Posted by Chief Orman

Hooper I think that is exactly right and my misunderstanding. That said, I spoke to a transmission shop in San Jose, CA and they seemed to imply they could beef up the valve body. However, upon reflection that doesn't really sound realistic given the valve body design of the 335d.

By the way, to have the valve body rebuilt was a quoted $1,300 repair. My question is how does one know to do the valve body rebuild before a more catastrophic failure of the transmission (large shards of steel in the transmission fluid)?

The valve body issues should not cause part damage if addressed in a reasonable amount of time. The issues develop slowly and would get worse and worse over time. Depending on which particular valve is wearing out you would either get harsher than normal shifts or flare ups during shifts.

[rspring]

I recently added a downpipe, alphabet delete, wagner IC, two stage water meth and a JR stage 2 tune. While the car was in there, I had them change the fluid. Now it hunts somewhat, shifts sloppy, and has even kicked down to 1st on moderate acceleration versus shifting to 3rd. SCARY. Does this sound like valve body issues? I'm going to have them recheck the fluid levels, and make sure they reset the adaptation values, any other thoughts? Is it Zip Kit time?

Thanks in advance!

[BB_cuda]

When i did my fluid, i filled until it started running out, warmed up trans by running car. I opened back up fill port and it needed another 1.x L to start running out of fill port again. I wonder if the shop didn't do the warm up & top off again part of job. My trans acts no different since change. I changed at about 38,000 miles though.

How many miles were you at change?

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

Shifting depends on so much more influences as you might imagine in your wildest dreams. MAF sensor readings, rail pressure, acc pedal movements, adapted values,you name it. I've installed a racechip this week. Each changing of the pot settings leads to a totally different car

[Puerto Rican 335d]

I did my change of tranny and differential w AMSOIL and so far so good. It just fellt a little bet smoother thats all i gathered

[rspring]

BB Cuda,
52K

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by rspring

BB Cuda,
52K

That is plenty early to not have crapped out fluid. You may need to warm it up good and put it on lift and open the fill port while running and see if you have a small stream coming out the plug. You fluid level could be perfectly fine. My point is you might want to check that box off before looking into the valves in the lower end of trans.

I think I need to go get one of my own boxes checked off too. I never did the reset of the adaptations and this may be important. I will call my indy.

[Yozh]

Refreshed mechatronics can be had from Revmax for $800. I think ours is A063/B063, or at least that is what comes up from my separator plate. I do not know who makes beefed up clutch plates and the rest of the drive parts. Sonnax has a lot of good info, besides the Zip-Kits.

[_TB_]

Originally Posted by Si-335d

I definitely have the clunky change form 2nd to 3rd under hard acceleration

if your remap is not correctly calibrated - the gearbox doesn't know the amount of torque applied to it - and then it will make the gearchanges clunky and hard.

Even though you run high torque and power you should have smooth gearchanges.

[rspring]

I spoke with the banned one last night. Worst case he will build a stronger trans for me. Hopefully my local mechanic just forgot to do the adaptation reset. The banned one told me that failing to do that can cause some very funky symptoms.

[Chief Orman]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Refreshed mechatronics can be had from Revmax for $800. I think ours is A063/B063, or at least that is what comes up from my separator plate. I do not know who makes beefed up clutch plates and the rest of the drive parts. Sonnax has a lot of good info, besides the Zip-Kits.

Yozh would a decent indy have any issues resetting adaptations?

[rspring]

Chief, a decent Indy should have the cable and software. Unfortunately for me, it did not fix my problems. A strong rebuild is in my future.