[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Dackz

What would a good car wash, clay, QD be to use? Would I want to glaze, or since my car is in good shape already, skip that? The sealant I want to use is the Blackfire Wet Diamond. That stuff looks great on the gray M3 (I have a Space Grey 335), so I know what I want to use there, plus I like that it will last a while...I plan on sealing it at least 3 times a year (Spring, Summer, Fall-hope it to last through winter...to dang cold to detail without a heated shop), and probably polishing just once each spring and maybe fall.

I think this is something I could really do, and I appreciate the advice.

For a car wash, I either turn to Maxi Suds II or Optimum No Rinse for maintenance washes. ONR is a versatile product to have on hand as it can be used as a quick detailer and a clay bar lubricant depending on how you dilute the product.

For a clay bar, I'd recommend our DI gentle fine grade clay and as a QD solution, I really enjoy using the Optimum Instant Detailer.

If there's anything else I can give you a hand with, let me know. Keep us posted on what you end up going with and how things turn out for you.

[ucdbiendog]

Hi George,
I did a quick search on this but did not find a definitive answer. I recently had my car in for service for a few days, and I guess the kept the car outside. Needless to say, the windshield got spotted. I first tried vinegar w/water to no avail. Then I tried clay and the spots are still there (although only noticeable when wet and using the windshield wipers). What is the next step to removing these spots? Can I use the same polish that I would use on my paint (I have a cutting and finishing polish)? Would I have better results using something like CG Water Spot Remover? Thanks!
~Ryan

[Dakren12]

hey George, how's it been? Business good? Anyway, I recently purchased a 2010 Subaru STI. in Dark Grey Metallic, and I have some question as to giving my new baby some protection. Now the car has not been delivered yet, they're estimating approximately 5 weeks for delivery.

How should I prep/prepare this new car?

I want to do all detailing work myself, as I've spent a great amount of resource on your products if you remember a few pages back ago.

I was also suggested to do some sort of 3M protective film? But It seem as though there are a few different brands of the films(clear bra?).

And if I do have the film(clear bra) applied, how would that change the detailing routine? such as maintenance, polish/wax? Or do you treat it just like a clear coat of paint? Still wax?

Do you have any recommendation for any products/types of clearbra?

Thanks!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by ucdbiendog

Hi George,
I did a quick search on this but did not find a definitive answer. I recently had my car in for service for a few days, and I guess the kept the car outside. Needless to say, the windshield got spotted. I first tried vinegar w/water to no avail. Then I tried clay and the spots are still there (although only noticeable when wet and using the windshield wipers). What is the next step to removing these spots? Can I use the same polish that I would use on my paint (I have a cutting and finishing polish)? Would I have better results using something like CG Water Spot Remover? Thanks!
~Ryan

Hey Ryan, good question. You can give the polishing a shot and see if that helps with the marks at all. CG Water Spot Remover would act more like a chemical polish rather than an abrasive polish. Either would be the next progression after the steps that you said you already tried. Glass is much harder to correct than paint (clear coat) since the glass is harder. Using a buffer with the polishes would certain help if you have one. Let us know how things turn out.

Originally Posted by Dakren12

hey George, how's it been? Business good? Anyway, I recently purchased a 2010 Subaru STI. in Dark Grey Metallic, and I have some question as to giving my new baby some protection. Now the car has not been delivered yet, they're estimating approximately 5 weeks for delivery.

How should I prep/prepare this new car?

I want to do all detailing work myself, as I've spent a great amount of resource on your products if you remember a few pages back ago.

I was also suggested to do some sort of 3M protective film? But It seem as though there are a few different brands of the films(clear bra?).

And if I do have the film(clear bra) applied, how would that change the detailing routine? such as maintenance, polish/wax? Or do you treat it just like a clear coat of paint? Still wax?

Do you have any recommendation for any products/types of clearbra?

Thanks!

Congrats on the STI! I'm sure you'll have some fun with that. I wouldn't let the dealership touch the STI if you are going to prep the car yourself. Ask for it to be delivered with the plastic still intact so they don't have the chance to screw anything up. After removing all of the plastic from delivery, I'd recommend claying the paint to remove any contamination from transit. Claying will also give you a great base to apply your sealant on and properly protect the new car.

As for the clear bra, do some research in your area who does the best installs. The quality of the install is probably more important than which film you choose. A poor install won't last long, the edges can start to fall off and it'll be easily visible that there is a clear bra is on the car. Great installs are almost invisible.

You still want to treat and maintain the clear bra the same, wash and dry as normal. If you polish your paint, I'd recommend taping the edges of the clear bra so you don't get product built up on the edges. Same goes for when you seal or wax the car. You may want to opt for a liquid sealant or wax to help minimize the risk of getting product caked up on the edges of the clear bra.

I typically use something like Klasse AIO on clear bras, it will clean and protect the surface in one simple step. If the clear bra does get scuffed or swirled, you can opt to polish the clear bra, but start light and assess your results before going too aggressive on it.

Hope this helps. Keep us posted on how things turn out. Enjoy the new car!

[jbake]

Quick question. Which is better, buffing with an actual rotary tool or one of those oscillating buffers?

[shoes]

I'm having some wheels custom powder coated by EAS in a matte finish. The finish is fairly smooth to the touch - not textured or grainy. I don't believe it will have any clear coat applied.

They suggested that I stick to just regular soap/water to keep them clean, but just soap and water isn't going to cut through brake dust very easily!

P21S claims that their wheel cleaner is safe "on every type of wheel and wheel coating."
I know it's probably difficult to say for sure without trying it first hand, but do you think the finish will be safe using P21S or any other similar product on them?

What about using a sealant/wax on them?

What would you suggest for cleaning and maintaining wheels with a finish like this?

Any advice would be great!

Here is a shot of the finish:

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by jbake

Quick question. Which is better, buffing with an actual rotary tool or one of those oscillating buffers?

Better in what sense? Safer? Maximum gloss and depth? Deeper correction? A rotary buffer has the potential for faster cut and deeper gloss and depth when used properly, but there's a much higher potential to burn through or damage the paint. If this is your first time getting into polishing, I'd recommend a random orbital such as the PC 7424 XP or Flex XC3401VRG. There's also a lot more information regarding the differences between the buffers on our polishing how-to guide.

Originally Posted by shoes

I'm having some wheels custom powder coated by EAS in a matte finish. The finish is fairly smooth to the touch - not textured or grainy. I don't believe it will have any clear coat applied.

They suggested that I stick to just regular soap/water to keep them clean, but just soap and water isn't going to cut through brake dust very easily!

P21S claims that their wheel cleaner is safe "on every type of wheel and wheel coating."
I know it's probably difficult to say for sure without trying it first hand, but do you think the finish will be safe using P21S or any other similar product on them?

What about using a sealant/wax on them?

What would you suggest for cleaning and maintaining wheels with a finish like this?

Any advice would be great!

Here is a shot of the finish:

Good question... I'd recommend following what they recommended by using just soap and water for most of your maintenance. Before you install the new wheels, I'd recommend protecting both the face and inner barrels with a sealant, Optimum Opti-Seal works great since you can simply mist it on and wipe with a microfiber towel. By having your wheels protected, it'll make it so the brake dust slides right off.

P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner is safe enough to use on powder coated wheels. Another great wheel cleaner you could use at a better value is CG Diablo Gel Wheel Cleaner. You dilute the Diablo at a 3:1 rate so a 16 oz bottle lasts 4 times longer than the same size P21S bottle.

Enjoy the new wheels

[oilcrankinject]

I got through I rought winter in great shape until I washed my car for the first in 4 months (above freezing YAY)

Looks like somone took a key to my car. The scratch is short but it is deep. What is the best way to fix this? I have some other light scratches that I will need to buff out but what I should I use? I already have the buffer from you and the pad kit.

Sigh.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by svtfast

I got through I rought winter in great shape until I washed my car for the first in 4 months (above freezing YAY)

Looks like somone took a key to my car. The scratch is short but it is deep. What is the best way to fix this? I have some other light scratches that I will need to buff out but what I should I use? I already have the buffer from you and the pad kit.

Sigh.

If the scratch is thru the paint, there's nothing you can do other than to touch up the scratch or respray the panel. Polishing the scratch can remove some of the scuffed areas and make the scratch look smaller, but once paint is removed, you cannot polish out something that isn't there.

I'd recommend using something like Meguiar's M105 then follow up with M205 after. This combo works great on an orbital buffer. Here's a walk through guide on using the Meguiar's polishes properly.

This combo would also remove the other scratches you are referring to.

Good luck, keep us posted on how things turn out for you.

[oilcrankinject]

I have some of BMWs scatch paint. Should I clean the surface, clay the paint around the scratch, apply the paint so it fills in the gap, wetsand with fine ass paper, then polish?

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by svtfast

I have some of BMWs scatch paint. Should I clean the surface, clay the paint around the scratch, apply the paint so it fills in the gap, wetsand with fine ass paper, then polish?

Need to be careful with clay in an area that has no more paint left, sometimes the clay can catch the edge and chip the paint. Best bet is to clean the surface and skip the clay IMO. Chances are you wont catch the edge but ive heard stories.

[Dackz]

I spoke with a detailer today, I will get my car professionaly done this round in preparation to do it on my own from here on out (we looked and I have a bit more swirlage then I thought, so I want them out correctly).

George,

He said he has no problem using a product with which I bring in to use, so I am going with the Blackfire Wet Diamond for my sealant. He is using the M105/M205 to polish (claying and all that before hand though).

I think the QD that I would want to use after this has been applied (a few days cure of course) would be http://www.detailedimage.com/Blackfi...ycharger-P272/ correct? I can spray this on every couple of weeks to help keep the sealant working then in the summer (approx 4 months later) its sealant time again, then what would I use to take the sealant off to put new sealant on? I would then use that Opti QD and clay, and be ready to go for sealant again.

This looks like the soap/wash to use during regular cleanings since it says it wont remove my finish http://www.detailedimage.com/Blackfi...P200/16-oz-S1/
And this looks like the soap to use when I want to strip it all off and reseal it http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemica...P410/16-oz-S1/

I might add that the blackfire QD is a tad pricey...is there also another product I could use with it for when I get some dust/dirt in a spot or 2 but its not enough for a wash?


Then..when fall comes..inspect my damage on swirls and decide whether to just seal it or polish it again at that point lol.

Sorry for the rambling questions...I dont think I did quite enough properly on my car this past year to keep it as good as I could...better then 98% of the general public but probably 40-60% of the enthusiasts, lol.

One last question...have some FINE scratches in the wood grain on the interior...suggestion for getting them out?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by svtfast

I have some of BMWs scatch paint. Should I clean the surface, clay the paint around the scratch, apply the paint so it fills in the gap, wetsand with fine ass paper, then polish?

As JPSlick mentioned, you may want to skip the clay step, but what I would recommend after cleaning the surface is to spray something to strip any previous wax, such as Isopropyl Alcohol. You want to make sure the paint doesn't have any sealant or wax hindering the curing process. The rest of the process is good... I'd recommend taking your time, using a toothpick or something very fine to get the paint into the scratch, your better off building it up with multiple thin applications, perform a light wet sand and polish away to an even finish. Make sure you let the paint cure before sanding and polishing. Good luck!

Originally Posted by Dackz

I spoke with a detailer today, I will get my car professionaly done this round in preparation to do it on my own from here on out (we looked and I have a bit more swirlage then I thought, so I want them out correctly).

George,

He said he has no problem using a product with which I bring in to use, so I am going with the Blackfire Wet Diamond for my sealant. He is using the M105/M205 to polish (claying and all that before hand though).

I think the QD that I would want to use after this has been applied (a few days cure of course) would be http://www.detailedimage.com/Blackfi...ycharger-P272/ correct? I can spray this on every couple of weeks to help keep the sealant working then in the summer (approx 4 months later) its sealant time again, then what would I use to take the sealant off to put new sealant on? I would then use that Opti QD and clay, and be ready to go for sealant again.

This looks like the soap/wash to use during regular cleanings since it says it wont remove my finish http://www.detailedimage.com/Blackfi...P200/16-oz-S1/
And this looks like the soap to use when I want to strip it all off and reseal it http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemica...P410/16-oz-S1/

I might add that the blackfire QD is a tad pricey...is there also another product I could use with it for when I get some dust/dirt in a spot or 2 but its not enough for a wash?


Then..when fall comes..inspect my damage on swirls and decide whether to just seal it or polish it again at that point lol.

Sorry for the rambling questions...I dont think I did quite enough properly on my car this past year to keep it as good as I could...better then 98% of the general public but probably 40-60% of the enthusiasts, lol.

One last question...have some FINE scratches in the wood grain on the interior...suggestion for getting them out?

The Blackfire Wet Diamond and Deep Gloss Spray is an excellent combo that will help you get the most out of the Wet Diamond protection.

To strip everything off, you can use a concentrated shampoo like Chemical Guys Citrus Wash or some isopropyl alcohol would do the trick. The BF shampoo you mentioned would be a good maintenance shampoo, especially since you'll be using Wet Diamond and Deep Gloss Spray.

I would treat the Deep Gloss Spray as your spray on protection after maintenance washes. For the light dirt / dust times you mentioned, the Optimum Instant Detailer is a nice option or perhaps Optimum No Rinse in the QD ratio.

I can tell you did some great research already, you're going to love the look of your car after properly caring for it with this combo.

For the wood grain scratches / swirls, you treat it the same as your paint but you don't want to go as aggressive on the trim. Something like Meguiar's ScratchX or a light pass of Meguiar's M205 should do the trick.

Let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.

Be sure to keep us posted on how things turn out for you.

George

[Dackz]

Thanks George. Great info and thanks for the help. I will let ya know/show ya how it looks in a few weeks after I get it all done. Have to wait for the weather to get better.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Dackz

Thanks George. Great info and thanks for the help. I will let ya know/show ya how it looks in a few weeks after I get it all done. Have to wait for the weather to get better.

Sounds good. Looking forward to seeing your results, and the better weather.

[dtm@heart]

Hi Detailed Image, just wondering what the life expectancy for a cutting pad (orange) usually is.

I'm about to do a detail on my car, but I only have one cutting pad from when I began using the PC. It was clogged up so I washed it and I can see the little polishing beads stuck in the foam, but its no where near as clogged as it was before.

Assuming I can keep it unclogged for my detail, can I still use this for my upcoming detail or should I get some backups?

Thanks!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by dtm@heart

Hi Detailed Image, just wondering what the life expectancy for a cutting pad (orange) usually is.

I'm about to do a detail on my car, but I only have one cutting pad from when I began using the PC. It was clogged up so I washed it and I can see the little polishing beads stuck in the foam, but its no where near as clogged as it was before.

Assuming I can keep it unclogged for my detail, can I still use this for my upcoming detail or should I get some backups?

Thanks!

The life of any pad is directly related to how well you care for your pads. If you clean them right away and do not over saturate the pads with product, they may last years. I have ruined pads in one use by not caring or treating them properly in the past as well.

I would highly recommend picking up some additional pads in the future, it will make your life significantly easier in the long run. By using multiple pads, you don't saturate the product on the pads and they come out fresher each time. You can also take a tooth brush and run the PC at a medium speed and gently glide the brush over the pad to help release the polish from the pad. It's also always good to keep multiple pads around in the event you drop one or it becomes contaminated from hitting dirt or some trim, etc.

If there's any other questions you may have, let me know.

George

[bma]

Hey George,

I am looking into buying some wheel cleaner like P21S or CG Sticky Wheel Gel, however I like to keep a coat of wheel sealant on the wheels. Will the wheel cleaners remove the sealant?

Thanks!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by bma

Hey George,

I am looking into buying some wheel cleaner like P21S or CG Sticky Wheel Gel, however I like to keep a coat of wheel sealant on the wheels. Will the wheel cleaners remove the sealant?

Thanks!

Typically any wheel cleaner will degrade any type of protection you may put on your wheels. If you keep a fresh coat of wheel sealant on your wheels and you maintain your vehicle on a regular basis, all you should need is soap and water to remove the brake dust.

If you are going to use a wheel cleaner and want to maximize the protection, you'll want to use a very diluted version of the wheel cleaner. You could try something like Diablo Gel Wheel Cleaner at a 6:1 dilution ratio or either of the wheel cleaners you mentioned diluted down a bit.

Let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.

George

[TomE92]

Hey George, I recently bought a used 2008 335i in Jet Black and I've noticed multiple scratches and swirl marks everywhere.

I used to use (just washed with NXT car wash actually) off the shelf items like Meguiars NXT line of car wash, polish, and wax. I've noticed that the wax doesn't last that long and the polish doesn't really hide much of the fine swirl marks. It definitely does keep that wet look for awhile though. (I haven't clay barred or polished/waxed my car yet)

What do you recommend I use to make my car have that wet look, minimize swirls/scratches, and have waxes and polishes that last longer on the car? All without breaking my bank Main thing I'm going to invest in is the Porter Cable 7424XP.

I've also noticed that my wash mitt and waffle weave MF towel makes swirl marks too. What do you recommend for that?

PS: Is it a good idea to use a squeegee to dry cars? I've been using it for years now but others say it's a bad idea?


Thanks for your time!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by TomE92

Hey George, I recently bought a used 2008 335i in Jet Black and I've noticed multiple scratches and swirl marks everywhere.

I used to use (just washed with NXT car wash actually) off the shelf items like Meguiars NXT line of car wash, polish, and wax. I've noticed that the wax doesn't last that long and the polish doesn't really hide much of the fine swirl marks. It definitely does keep that wet look for awhile though. (I haven't clay barred or polished/waxed my car yet)

What do you recommend I use to make my car have that wet look, minimize swirls/scratches, and have waxes and polishes that last longer on the car? All without breaking my bank Main thing I'm going to invest in is the Porter Cable 7424XP.

I've also noticed that my wash mitt and waffle weave MF towel makes swirl marks too. What do you recommend for that?

PS: Is it a good idea to use a squeegee to dry cars? I've been using it for years now but others say it's a bad idea?

Thanks for your time!

Hey Tom,

Congrats on the 335 pick up. If you're going to invest in a PC, I'd highly recommend looking into this PC 7424XP kit with Meguiar's polishes. This will give you everything you need to remove a majority of the swirls and imperfections in your paint. If you follow this how-to tutorial for the Meg's polishes, you'll achieve some outstanding results.

Prior to polishing, I'd highly recommend using a clay bar on your paint to properly prep the surface. I'd recommend our DI gentle grade clay kit.

For protection, if you are looking for the most durable solution, go with a quality sealant. I'd recommend looking into Blackfire Wet Diamond or Optimum Opti-Seal as two great options for you.

You definitely don't want to use a squeegee for anything, guaranteed marring and swirls on jet black paint. Chances are you could benefit from some new washing and drying products, but most importantly, it's your washing and drying technique that minimize adding imperfections. If your looking for some new wash products, take a look at this starter kit to get you going.

That should get you started in the right direction and meet all of your needs. Look things over and let me know if you have any questions on anything.

Thanks again, keep me posted on what you end up going with and how things turn out for you.

All the best,

George

[jsublime]

Why do I need a separate wheel wax? What would happen if just used some sealant or wax that I put on my paint?