[techmaster05]

so yesterday I decided to change out my rotors, pads, lines, and fluid. I went with r1 concepta premium drilled and slotted rotors. cool carbon pads and motul 600 fluid. the change went smooth but my brake feel is terrible now. I pressure bled the system with a motive bleeder. I used the two 500ml bottles. my pedal does feel like it has a delay unless I push it down even more. it almosy feels like a delay in brake feel. when im stopped and I press the pedal a couple times it hardens.

I did not see to many bubbles when bleeding except for the right rear. I kept on constantly getting small little bubbles coming out. their is no leaks anywhere but I keept on getting them. at first when the fluid is being pushed out its nice and solid and than a bunch of small bubbles.

do you guys think this is a bedding issue or should bleed all over again.

[Efthreeoh]

You mentioned "lines" but did not elaborate. What lines did you replace?

[techmaster05]

I replaces the brake lines witht the stoptech ss ones. however i did not the change the inner ones in the rear just the outer ones.

[Efthreeoh]

It could be a bedding issue too. You've total changed the brake system from stock, so a different feel is not unexpected.

So are you sure you didn't cross-thread a fitting somewhere? What I would do is get a helper and re-bleed the system using the old fashion pump method. If the bleeder hose has a tight fit on the bleed screw you shouldn't be getting any air bubbles. Also, you don't need to open the bleed screw more than a 1/4 turn, opening it more can allow air in.

Good luck.

[techmaster05]

I can understand a different feeling but the pedal is to soft. id imagine it to be nice and stiff and brake right away witg such a change.

[Boxtyp3]

It could be that the contact on the surfaces of the pads and the rotors are not perfectly paralell yet since they are both brand new. I would say wait for a couple more days to wear it down.

[techmaster05]

gotcha i will wait for proper bedding before getting some more fluid. i get no rattle or squeels so thats a plus. old fluid was getting a bit brown so def. needed a change. i can still see the machined look on the rotors so ill see how its goes in the next few days, if i still have a poor feel ill have to rebleed than.

[jeffro535]

I'd re-bleed again. Air can work itself into some crazy places. I've had some get trapped in the ABS unit and it took like a hour to get it out, that should address the soft pedal, but the braking action will be different until everything gets bedded in.

[Sean_335i]

What you are describing definitely sounds like air in the brake lines to me. You said that you changed your brake fluid, did you completely empty the reservoir all the way down to the master cylinder? If so, you got air into the abs lines, and you need to bleed them as well.

[Red_Bean_Bun]

I think it's all that air ..... Redoing it is probably necessary.

[techmaster05]

Originally Posted by Sean_335i

What you are describing definitely sounds like air in the brake lines to me. You said that you changed your brake fluid, did you completely empty the reservoir all the way down to the master cylinder? If so, you got air into the abs lines, and you need to bleed them as well.

I did not take all the fluid out before putting in new fluid. When changing the lines i basically put a cap on the lines coming from the car so that way no fluid would leak out while i had the calipers off with the lines on calipers. I took out as much old fluid from the reservoir before doing the full bleed with the motive bleeder. I'm not sure how i would get air into the abs lines unless i completely bled the system dry, or am i wrong??

I did do a quick search on doing the abs and i think you need software to activate the pump??? IS there a way to bleed the abs without purchasing software??

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by techmaster05

I did not take all the fluid out before putting in new fluid. When changing the lines i basically put a cap on the lines coming from the car so that way no fluid would leak out while i had the calipers off with the lines on calipers. I took out as much old fluid from the reservoir before doing the full bleed with the motive bleeder. I'm not sure how i would get air into the abs lines unless i completely bled the system dry, or am i wrong??

I did do a quick search on doing the abs and i think you need software to activate the pump??? IS there a way to bleed the abs without purchasing software??

Wait until it rains and drop anchor.

[jeffro535]

Originally Posted by techmaster05

I did not take all the fluid out before putting in new fluid. When changing the lines i basically put a cap on the lines coming from the car so that way no fluid would leak out while i had the calipers off with the lines on calipers. I took out as much old fluid from the reservoir before doing the full bleed with the motive bleeder. I'm not sure how i would get air into the abs lines unless i completely bled the system dry, or am i wrong??

I did do a quick search on doing the abs and i think you need software to activate the pump??? IS there a way to bleed the abs without purchasing software??

You can find a slippery/dirty/icy surface somewhere and brake firmly

[techmaster05]

so if I understand you by doing that and the abs coming on it will just push the air bubbles out and than I can bleed them out through the brake linea

[ashmostro]

Look for brake fluid seepage at each and every one of your new line fittings... tightening the lines correctly is critical and can be tricky. Did you tighten them with a flare nut wrench or just a regular wrench?

Touch each fitting, feeling for brake fluid on your fingertips.

[The Cleaner]

The ABS pump needs to be cycled do a a bleed, there are some DIY's to get around using the correct software but I would not trust them.

[Malibu1]

Double check the new lines to make sure they are not leaking. Also, just because you used the motive bleeder does not mean you got all the air out. I generally do not have good luck with that bleeder. Nothing is better than your buddy in the drivers seat working the pedal while you work the bleeder screws. Bleed starting with brake located at the longest brake line and work towards the shortest brake line.

[ashmostro]

Agree with Malibu. Vacuum bleeders can give false readings, and don't always get all the air out. I prefer pressure bleeding. Reverse bleeding if you have a really stubborn line.

[techmaster05]

alright guys well im gonna go ahead and order two more bottles and rebleed, hope it rains. Thank you all for the help, ill let you know how it goes.

[ashmostro]

Take the time to check your line connections for leaks first. Otherwise you could be wasting effort and money.

[techmaster05]

will do so

[VTECaddict]

If you are coming from stock brakes, keep in mind the OEM BMW pads are super grabby with a huge initial bite.

Other pads do not have this initial bite and it may feel like it's not braking as hard with the same pedal pressure vs OEM. You can have overall better maximum braking capacity compared to stock, but initial bite will still feel worse.