[jgoens]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Use this video as a guide for technique... use very slow arm speed, moderate pressure while still allowing the pad to maintain rotation, overlap passes, etc. This was me working on a 335i a couple of years ago.

Straight line scratches cannot be produced while polishing a vehicle... they must have been introduced while you were wiping away product. Be sure you are using premium grade microfiber that is very soft and completely clean.


Please read this article about performing test spots and analyzing your results before spending any more time working on your vehicle. Test spots are an absolutely critical part of the paint correction process. There is no way of knowing what pads / product will produce the exact results for your vehicle without doing some testing. It also sounds like you need some proper inspection lighting.

Analyzing Your Test Spot by Zach McGovern


If you've got any specific questions about the process, please let me know. Again, it would be VERY beneficial if you could take a video of yourself working, along with some before/after photos of the areas you are working on so I can try to help you determine what might speed up your progress.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

Zach, just watched the video a couple more times. What I notice is that you do not seem to be putting much pressure on the machine--I was putting pressure and it would alter it's spinning rotation. I see you never alter it's spinning power. Also, the polish you are using looks creamy the whole way through. The meguiers #1 does get a bit dried out after I do my passes. The swirls in that car are less than my car.

So, I have some cheaper microfiber towels..guess that could be the culprit for the straight scratches. Watching the video makes it look easy, and it is until I wipe off and the scratches are still there. I don't have the lighting setup to get pics that show the difference for before and after and a video, well maybe, need someone else around which has not been the case so far. I think I have the info and tools to get it done(other than a better microfiber towel), and will continue to work on it. Thanks for the advice.

[psnt1ol]

The machine used is a long throw DA (Rupes Bigfoot). Very little pressure is require for it to do its job. Most traditional DA like yours requires about 10-15 lbs of downward pressure. It is critical that you monitor the rotation of the pad closely.

If I remember correctly, Meg #1 is a diminishing liquid and to get the most from it is to work it until you reach its end cycle. If it is drying up on you too fast, try shrinking your work area and clean your pad often.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by jgoens

Zach, just watched the video a couple more times. What I notice is that you do not seem to be putting much pressure on the machine--I was putting pressure and it would alter it's spinning rotation. I see you never alter it's spinning power. Also, the polish you are using looks creamy the whole way through. The meguiers #1 does get a bit dried out after I do my passes. The swirls in that car are less than my car.

So, I have some cheaper microfiber towels..guess that could be the culprit for the straight scratches. Watching the video makes it look easy, and it is until I wipe off and the scratches are still there. I don't have the lighting setup to get pics that show the difference for before and after and a video, well maybe, need someone else around which has not been the case so far. I think I have the info and tools to get it done(other than a better microfiber towel), and will continue to work on it. Thanks for the advice.

As psnt1ol mentioned, the machine I was using in the video is the Rupes LHR21ES which is a long-throw polisher. This requires much less downward force from the user, however I was most interested in showing you the arm speed and that the pad maintained rotation while working.

For smaller throw machines like yours, you should be using enough downward pressure to compress the pad some, but not so much that the pad looses rotation. If you need to apply more pressure, you'll also want to increase machine speed to help maintain rotation. If rotation cannot be maintained with the pressure you are using even at the highest machine speed, you must use less pressure.

In general, more pressure = more cut and less pressure = less cut. So for defect removal, you'll want to apply pressure while finishing sometimes requires no pressure. Again, test spots are key.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[jgoens]

[ATTACH][/ATTACH]

Found out one thing I was doing wrong after calling Meguiers: The mirror glaze #1 is for rotary machines and I have a DA machine. They told me to try the Ultimate compound. I wanted to get something done yesterday and today and the D300 compound is not in retail so I gave it a shot. I'm finally getting decent results. The swirls have become small lines scattered about--much less noticeable. A few deeper scratches which I think are still in clear are lessened quite a bit but I am afraid to keep cutting them out. This product is working better and I think I am getting a grasp on technique. I actually see areas that are getting a showroom shine..but is still a ways from perfect.
Dont' know why the pics are sideways.

[psnt1ol]

Ultimate compound is the consumer version of M105 and in many cases ....a much easier liquid to work with for someone who is new to machine polishing.

I will be in town for 2 more days. Let me know if you need help.

[nynyny]

Lots of great info in this thread! Always learning something.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by psnt1ol

Ultimate compound is the consumer version of M105 and in many cases ....a much easier liquid to work with for someone who is new to machine polishing.

I will be in town for 2 more days. Let me know if you need help.

Yeah..I am starting to think the notion of technique trumps product is not really true--thinking they are equally important. I have been using somewhat decent technique but since I was not using the right product or pads was not getting any results and actually making it worse in some spots. Now that I have the white and orange pads and the compound I am using the same technique but am getting much better results. In one spot on the hood I have gotten it to about 90% swirl free. I'm not going to get it perfect.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by nynyny

Lots of great info in this thread! Always learning something.

This thread should almost be a sticky as the advice and links from psnt1ol and Zach for a noob in paint correction is great.

[jgoens]

Now that I am finally getting results, it's getting kind of addicting. I still have small amounts and very fine swirls, but It is cool to go over an area with moderate swirls and see the paint coming to life. Now that I'm not using the wrong product, knocking the machine cord against the fender making marks and not making lines all over with my polishing towel it is getting rewarding. Even when I am ready to quit, I have to go over another area just to see results. It's back tiring work but now I'm hooked on it.

[UncleWede]

"I can stop detailing any time I want to.
I just don't want to!"

[Detailed Image]

Welcome to the addiction It is a blessing and a curse. From this day forward, you will not be able to look at another vehicle without noticing all of the flaws in the paint. You will pass a car on the highway, notice how bad the paint is, and slow down so you can have a better look at the damage. You will want to polish everything - kitchen counter tops, stove tops, bath tubs... everything lol... but I wouldn't have it any other way.

Shiny paint is a way of life.
Lexus IS250 - MRR Ground Force GF07 by Zach McGovern, on Flickr

Lexus IS250 - MRR Ground Force GF07 by Zach McGovern, on Flickr
(my personal car)

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Welcome to the addiction It is a blessing and a curse. From this day forward, you will not be able to look at another vehicle without noticing all of the flaws in the paint. You will pass a car on the highway, notice how bad the paint is, and slow down so you can have a better look at the damage. You will want to polish everything - kitchen counter tops, stove tops, bath tubs... everything lol... but I wouldn't have it any other way.

Shiny paint is a way of life.
Lexus IS250 - MRR Ground Force GF07 by Zach McGovern, on Flickr

Lexus IS250 - MRR Ground Force GF07 by Zach McGovern, on Flickr
(my personal car)

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

So true...it was not long ago that I learned about the swirls and started to notice them on every car. I would hazard to say that 95% of the cars on this forum have swirls. I have yet to see a swirl free car in a parking lot. As I had mentioned before, my neighbor has a beautifully polished black mustang that before was the shiniest car on the block....upon inspection..massive amounts of swirls. He scrubs it with a brush and dries with bath towels. He is a detail freak, but does not know the real detailing. I'm not OCD but I am becoming car swirl OCD. I think the curse has been bestowed upon me from this forum and you guys.

[deeLow]

Guys, is the Rupes Bigfoot(the model mentioned in this thread) a good idea for beginners? Or something like the Porter Cable 7424XP?

Orange cutting pads for a Jet black car??? M105 or Ultimate compound? Total beginner to this process and haven't waxed a car in 2-3 years due to pure laziness but I intend on caring for my new to me JB 335.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by deeLow

Guys, is the Rupes Bigfoot(the model mentioned in this thread) a good idea for beginners? Or something like the Porter Cable 7424XP?

Orange cutting pads for a Jet black car??? M105 or Ultimate compound? Total beginner to this process and haven't waxed a car in 2-3 years due to pure laziness but I intend on caring for my new to me JB 335.

I'll let the other guys comment on that. I bought the shurehold machine because it was less money and I had an Autozone gift card as well. I'm assuming those machines are better.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by deeLow

Guys, is the Rupes Bigfoot(the model mentioned in this thread) a good idea for beginners? Or something like the Porter Cable 7424XP?

Orange cutting pads for a Jet black car??? M105 or Ultimate compound? Total beginner to this process and haven't waxed a car in 2-3 years due to pure laziness but I intend on caring for my new to me JB 335.

The Rupes machines are geared more towards professional use, however an amateur could also use one if you wished.


I would highly recommend the Griot's Garage dual action polisher. This machine is similar in size to the porter cable, but is a bit more powerful and comes with a great lifetime warranty! You simply can't beat it in my opinion.

You could start with some ultimate compound, ultimate polish, orange pads, white pads, and black pads for a very basic starter set.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[deeLow]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

The Rupes machines are geared more towards professional use, however an amateur could also use one if you wished.


I would highly recommend the Griot's Garage dual action polisher. This machine is similar in size to the porter cable, but is a bit more powerful and comes with a great lifetime warranty! You simply can't beat it in my opinion.

You could start with some ultimate compound, ultimate polish, orange pads, white pads, and black pads for a very basic starter set.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

Thanks Zach!

The Griot is currently out of stock but when I'm ready I will pick it up for sure. Subscribing to this thread so I don't lose track of what to purchase.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

The Rupes machines are geared more towards professional use, however an amateur could also use one if you wished.


I would highly recommend the Griot's Garage dual action polisher. This machine is similar in size to the porter cable, but is a bit more powerful and comes with a great lifetime warranty! You simply can't beat it in my opinion.

You could start with some ultimate compound, ultimate polish, orange pads, white pads, and black pads for a very basic starter set.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

The ultimate polish does very little as far as paint correction. I spoke to Meguier's yesterday and asked them if I should switch from the ultimate compound to something lighter such as swirlX, since the swirls now are very light and fine and he said I should just continue with the Ultimate compound to take them all out and then go to Wax. I have been using the Lake Orange pad. I was thinking in terms of sandpaper--sand hard first and then go fine for final smoothness--but he says the Ultimate compound is a use-for-all purpose product. On Monday I will continue.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by jgoens

The ultimate polish does very little as far as paint correction. I spoke to Meguier's yesterday and asked them if I should switch from the ultimate compound to something lighter such as swirlX, since the swirls now are very light and fine and he said I should just continue with the Ultimate compound to take them all out and then go to Wax. I have been using the Lake Orange pad. I was thinking in terms of sandpaper--sand hard first and then go fine for final smoothness--but he says the Ultimate compound is a use-for-all purpose product. On Monday I will continue.

This depends drastically on your polishing technique and the paint you are working on. While UC is not the most aggressive compound on the market, it would be very misleading to state that polishing is never required afterwards. It is also very misleading to state the UP is not capable of much correction... we have done a tremendous amount of correction with its professional version (M205) on many vehicles throughout the years.

Allow me to share some pictures from a project I am currently working on... a BMW M6 Gran Coupe that is receiving a two step correction.





The entire vehicle was compounded to remove defects, and you will see that the paint looks great as is. So you might wonder, why do a 2nd step when the paint already looks nearly flawless?




While not easily visible on this highly metallic paint except in specific lighting, the vehicle does have a considerable amount of marring that is creating a relatively dull finish compared to what we can achieve with fine polishing. Notice how much clearer and darker the right side looks after properly polishing. Again, without this high powered LED light, this is not nearly as visible to the naked eye, but that is why proper inspection lighting is absolutely critical. This extra step will take the car from look good, to absolutely stunning!




Top it with a couple of coats of 22ple and the results are outstanding Will post more pics when we are completely finished and I have time to do a write up.



Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[jgoens]

Huge difference in the left and right picture--it looks like two different cars.

[cya]

Wow!!! I must say I learn something today.

[jgoens]

So I picked up some M150 today and tried that--it works better than the Ultimate compound--I noticed that the swirls do come out faster. This process is really a time consuming thing. Much appreciation for the pros who do it. Also, it seems like my orange pad gets gummed up after working for a bit.

[deeLow]

Originally Posted by jgoens

So I picked up some M150 today and tried that--it works better than the Ultimate compound--I noticed that the swirls do come out faster. This process is really a time consuming thing. Much appreciation for the pros who do it. Also, it seems like my orange pad gets gummed up after working for a bit.

150 or 105?? You think it's worth skipping UC and going straight for 105?