[klipseracer]

So here is the situation My wheel carrier that connects to the driver side left shock has slid up my shock. It has broken off the tab on the shock and I need to get it back down.



So basically, part #2, that sleeve where the shock goes, has risen up the shock about 3 inches... First how do I get it back down? And how is the char held up? That tab certianly doesn't hold the weight of the car? And that shock doesn't look tapered to me? Maybe I need to look again. But does that bolt, Part #3 tighten down on the shock enough to keep it there? Thanks, I'm going to be working on the car tonight hopefully so any replies before then would be great.

[Richwm]

The bolt #3 holds the strut. I would try and jack up the car and loosen #3 bolt and it should slide back down if not try hitting #2 with a rubber mallot with that bolt loose. I would also check the torq on the other side as well.

[klipseracer]

Originally Posted by Richwm

The bolt #3 holds the strut. I would try and jack up the car and loosen #3 bolt and it should slide back down if not try hitting #2 with a rubber mallot with that bolt loose. I would also check the torq on the other side as well.

The bolt #3 is free spinning. I used a hammer and beat on it a few times. It didn't budge. Any other ideas besides a bigger hammer?

[klipseracer]

Here are some pics of what i'm talking about. You can see that the sleeve has risen up too far. Also, what are those little things poking out on the side where I have the red arrows?

[klipseracer]

Also, How do I remove the boot over the tie rod?

There is no place to unscrew, its like that clamp is pressed on. Anyone?

[Richwm]

Originally Posted by klipseracer

Here are some pics of what i'm talking about. You can see that the sleeve has risen up too far. Also, what are those little things poking out on the side where I have the red arrows?

If I remember corectly they are guide pins for the strut installation.
As for getting the strut back in place you can remove the bolt and tap a chisel in there to seperate the sleeve to realign the strut. I had to do that on one side that was stuck when I replaced my front struts.

[Kevin@AKMotorwerk]

loosen that pinch bolt, after jacking the car up, and try a strap wrench on the strut to twist the strut, they usually unwedge themselves once you twist them a 1/4 inch, or try a screwdriver between the ears where the bolt goes.

also that boot is for the power steering rack, dont take that off. the tie rod is bolted to the back of that number 2, you can take that off

[klipseracer]

Originally Posted by sexye92

loosen that pinch bolt, after jacking the car up, and try a strap wrench on the strut to twist the strut, they usually unwedge themselves once you twist them a 1/4 inch, or try a screwdriver between the ears where the bolt goes.

also that boot is for the power steering rack, dont take that off. the tie rod is bolted to the back of that number 2, you can take that off

I think you are confused. The tie-rod is part of the steering system as well. And my tie rod is bent and tie rod-end is broken. So I need to change the whole tie-rod which requires getting access underneath this boot.



How do I get this clamp off without damaging it? It is part #3 in the above diagram.

[Kevin@AKMotorwerk]

Originally Posted by klipseracer

I think you are confused. The tie-rod is part of the steering system as well. And my tie rod is bent and tie rod-end is broken. So I need to change the whole tie-rod which requires getting access underneath this boot.



How do I get this clamp off without damaging it? It is part #3 in the above diagram.

oh ok, those kind of clamps that you pictured are not really reusable, you can spend all your time trying to remove the crimp, but you are better off cutting it and replacing it with a zip tie, or buying a new clamp from bmw and trying to install it, but they usually require special pliers for those clamps. its only a dust boot so a zip tie will do the same job as that clamp

[klipseracer]

Originally Posted by sexye92

oh ok, those kind of clamps that you pictured are not really reusable, you can spend all your time trying to remove the crimp, but you are better off cutting it and replacing it with a zip tie, or buying a new clamp from bmw and trying to install it, but they usually require special pliers for those clamps. its only a dust boot so a zip tie will do the same job as that clamp

Your probably right about the zip tie, but i'm kinda anal about something like this... How hard is it to get that clamp back on properly? A new one that is.

[Kevin@AKMotorwerk]

Originally Posted by klipseracer

Your probably right about the zip tie, but i'm kinda anal about something like this... How hard is it to get that clamp back on properly? A new one that is.

it can definitely be done, it acts kind of like a zip tie, it has teeth on it, so you have to squeeze it with needle nose pliers and then figure a way to lock it on, unless its a crimp only style clamp, then you would have to get the crimper pliers

[klipseracer]

So, today I tried pretty much everything to get my strut out that I could without beating the shit out of the wheel carrier with a hammer and pissing off my neighbors. I tried a screwdriver, crowbar, hammer, rubber mallet.. Nothing. I even broke the nail pulling teeth off the back of one of my hammers. The wheel carrier is a little scratched up now, and that sleeve will even flex open on one side, but it will NOT fall down. I think since it slid up over where that tab was, I believe the remains of that tab are somehow hooking the sleeve and keeping it from coming off... So I decided it would be easier to work on if I took it completely off along with the strut. After take out bolt #11 and nut #15 in diagram, Part #14 the wishbone isn't sliding out very easy. Am I going to have to beat on this as well? It slides Outward and it doesn't drop down right? How much force is this going to require? And when I put a socket on nut # 13, it spins forever. How the hell am I supposed to get it off then?

[klipseracer]

I was able to get the wishbone off the subframe. Now I need to figure out how to get it out of the wheel carrier with that broken bolt that spins forever. Nut #13. I'm going to take off the disc brake off the rotors so I can easily take the strut/wheelcarrier out and work on it.

[klipseracer]

Ok, so I feel better now. I wasn't sure if I was going to have to take my entire strut/rotor/wheelcarrier/wishbone in my 330i to a shop somewhere to have them fix it... Plus, there would be that unknown expense. But, after getting the whole strut/assembly out of my car and into my shop, I had much better leverage. I was able to get a lot of leverage on the stupid thing, and no matter what I did, pry, smash push, hit, drop, the stupid shock is not coming out. So I took a freakin crow bar to it and pried and I broke the wheel carrier. I feel a LOT better! Now I only have one option which is to replace the wheel carrier and Its not an unknown expense. The other good thing, Is I don't have to worry about how i'm going to get the wishbone out of the thing if i'm just tossing both pieces. My rotor also has a chip in it, so that needs to go as well. The only thing I need to do is figure out how to get the damn strut out. as you can see in the picture, the spot where that tab was welded on to the shock basically re-welded itself to the wheel carrier making a little indentation that it was hanging on to. And even in its current state, I STILL cannot manage to get the shock out, no matter how hard I hit the thing. I think the best bet is to break another piece of the wheel carrier sleeve off. I've tried to put a screwdriver and punch at the seams and nothings working. I'm also not sure if I want to salvage the shock and re-use it. Considering they are $350+ replacement parts I'd like to save it if possible.

[Richwm]

Originally Posted by klipseracer

I was able to get the wishbone off the subframe. Now I need to figure out how to get it out of the wheel carrier with that broken bolt that spins forever. Nut #13. I'm going to take off the disc brake off the rotors so I can easily take the strut/wheelcarrier out and work on it.

To remove the tension strut from the wheel carrier you need to use an open end wrench on nut #13 and put an allen wrench in that ball joint to stop it from spinning while your trying remove the nut.

if I was you I would order the replacement parts from Crown Auto that should save you some money. Get the part numbers from Real OEM check the prices here http://parts.crownauto.com/


Mechanical Catalog - BMW
Front suspension - Suspension components - Strut Strut, 3 series, left, w/o sports suspension - 2wd 2006 $207.99

Front suspension - Suspension components - Knuckle Knuckle, 3 series, left - 2wd 2006 - 2008 $109.99

[Front suspension - Lower control arm - Front arm Front arm, 3 series, left - 2wd 2006 - 2008 $87.26 $

Total: $405.24

[Richwm]

So how did this happen? Did someone do suspension work and not re-torq the bolt.

[David1]

Originally Posted by Richwm

To remove the tension strut from the wheel carrier you need to use an open end wrench on nut #13 and put an allen wrench in that ball joint to stop it from spinning while your trying remove the nut.

if I was you I would order the replacement parts from Crown Auto that should save you some money. Get the part numbers from Real OEM check the prices here http://parts.crownauto.com/


Mechanical Catalog - BMW
Front suspension - Suspension components - Strut Strut, 3 series, left, w/o sports suspension - 2wd 2006 $207.99

Front suspension - Suspension components - Knuckle Knuckle, 3 series, left - 2wd 2006 - 2008 $109.99

[Front suspension - Lower control arm - Front arm Front arm, 3 series, left - 2wd 2006 - 2008 $87.26 $

Total: $405.24

If he couldn't figure out how to remove those 2 nuts, how are we going to tell him how to use spring compressors so he doesn't loose a finger changing the strut?

[klipseracer]

Originally Posted by David1

If he couldn't figure out how to remove those 2 nuts, how are we going to tell him how to use spring compressors so he doesn't loose a finger changing the strut?

You know what, go fuck yourself. I own a spring compressor and I realize and understand how they work. Go troll somewhere else. If you aren't being helpful quit being an asshole. Chances are i'm more knowledgable about cars than you are. And you say, "two nuts" Who said anything about two nuts? I believe you don't even know what you are talking about. There is only ONE nut on the wishbone connecting to the wheel carrier.

So how did this happen? Did someone do suspension work and not re-torq the bolt.

The car was in an accident and the tie-rod, wishbone and tensioner strut are all broken.

THE CAR WAS IN A WRECK! If I could have just taken it off normally I would have. Don't post if your just going to be a smartass. Whats the point?

Also, The tensioner strut is not connected to the wheel carrier anymore, i've gotten that off already. The wishbone was the problem, and i'm not saving the wheel carrier anymore. Thanks for those who are trying to help, as for the rest of you, get a life. By the way, i'm only yelling at David. Thanks for the help the rest of you

[David1]

And I am yelling back at you to asshole. I was talking about the 2 lower nuts, #13. One for the arm and the the other for the tension link. I have replaced many suspesions before btw. Chances are you are not more knowledgable than I am. Lets see, every post you have is how do I do this, how hard is this, I can't do shit with this, I broke this. If you knew what you were doing and had the correct tools you would have been done in an hour and not broken the carrier. And considering I just put the whole performance suspension and M3 arms on my car the other day, I think I know what the fxxk I am talking about. I bet when you put these parts back on, you don't even preload or torque anything. BTW, I have doing this stuff for 30 years. I started as a hack just like you.

[Highflyr]

Originally Posted by David1

And I am yelling back at you to asshole. I was talking about the 2 lower nuts, #13. One for the arm and the the other for the tension link. I have replaced many suspesions before btw. Chances are you are not more knowledgable than I am. Lets see, every post you have is how do I do this, how hard is this, I can't do shit with this, I broke this. If you knew what you were doing and had the correct tools you would have been done in an hour and not broken the carrier. And considering I just put the whole performance suspension and M3 arms on my car the other day, I think I know what the fxxk I am talking about. I bet when you put these parts back on, you don't even preload or torque anything. BTW, I have doing this stuff for 30 years. I started as a hack just like you.

[klipseracer]

Originally Posted by David1

And I am yelling back at you to asshole. I was talking about the 2 lower nuts, #13. One for the arm and the the other for the tension link. I have replaced many suspesions before btw. Chances are you are not more knowledgable than I am. Lets see, every post you have is how do I do this, how hard is this, I can't do shit with this, I broke this. If you knew what you were doing and had the correct tools you would have been done in an hour and not broken the carrier. And considering I just put the whole performance suspension and M3 arms on my car the other day, I think I know what the fxxk I am talking about. I bet when you put these parts back on, you don't even preload or torque anything. BTW, I have doing this stuff for 30 years. I started as a hack just like you.

First of all, in 30 years you apparently didn't learn to look at the pictures provided. You'll clearly see the tension strut isn't connected. So why would you say I couldn't get the 'two bolts' off? Two comes after the number one. It goes, One....Two... I know its a hard concept.

I have one post where I broke something and every other post i've made is related to fixing something. See how you are exaggerating to make yourself look even more foolish?

I have the TIS and it gives me all the proper torque specs FYI. And I will be doing everything per spec. So, if you have such a big mouth would you like to put a bet on my ability to put it back together right? I don't know about you, but people tend to STFU when something real comes on the line to back their words. The one guy with the big mouth is the one you punch in the face first. There is a reason for that. Shut your big mouth. Your not helping, you are trolling. If you don't like what I'm doing then go back and fuck Ur 70 year old wife. Stay out of my thread if you don't mind as i'm trying to be productive here and maybe help someone else answer their question by providing this thread to them. They certainly aren't searching for, "How long has david been a dbag for?" or, "Who has posted the most worthless shit in a thread for someone politely asking for help?".

Bottom line old man, I'm trying to get something done. I've been nothing but kind in asking for the help and all i'm saying is I don't appreciate your ass coming in here and being a dick. Period. Watch if you want, but you are obviously bitter about something. If you don't think I can do something, watch me fail OK? I won't be failing, but in the end, what do you get your kicks from? I told you so's? Seriously, that really does show your age. Be supportive! Helpful! Otherwise go to 4chan! Now you know. Move along. Nothing to argue about here. If you've got something to say to me, PM me.

EDIT: I'll admit that suspension and body work are not my forte.

[David1]

Yaaah you know what your doing... Figure out the parts that you asking about by your radiator in your other help me thread yet smart ass. Wait a minute, maybe i should go troll over there now. Yaaah you know what your doing. I will watch the show now to see what happens next. BTW, you will be more productive if you just work on the car instead of taking picks and asking questions and posting here, that's what a manual is for. I feel much better now and can now place you on my ignor list.