[chris82]

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

They're rated lower like yellow status. there's a post somewhere on this.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1055253

If anything the M3 are AT LEAST stiffer than the Powerflex Yellow, because Powerflex doesn't offer the yellow for the M3, only the Purple or Black.

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by techlogik

So what is the M Sport? Is that a 26.5 that tapers to 23mm? Or 26.5mm all the way through? Can't find that anywhere.

They do taper so the diameter is kind of meaningless as a comparison spec. I refer to the diameter only as a way to differentiate the M3 bars.

Lots of other things matter too like hollow vs. solid, length of moment arm, etc.

[mlifxs]

On the sways, I have the H&R solid up front, with a square tire set up. Rear sway is stock. Car doesn't seem to push up front. My noob impression is it's pretty neutral.

I have a rear 15mm xi bar in the garage but I hesitate to install it. I find the rear breaking loose too easily already at the autox, without it.

FWIW, Dinan recommends for their 15.8mm bar:
Only recommended for non-xi vehicles if equipped with D120-0530 28mm Front Swaybar, and one of the following: Limited-slip differential or rear tires that are wider than the front tires by 20mm or more.

[Fundguy1]

Hmmm. Ok. I thought they were like 65d. Black is 95d.

[rulonger]

Bilstein B12 pro-kit arrived today. Tire Rack had them in stock and delivery was super quick. Now to find a shop to install (do not have tools or experience to DIY) and align properly.

Can anybody give me a ballpark price for shock / spring install and alignment on an E90?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Fundguy1]

Originally Posted by rulonger

Bilstein B12 pro-kit arrived today. Tire Rack had them in stock and delivery was super quick. Now to find a shop to install (do not have tools or experience to DIY) and align properly.

Can anybody give me a ballpark price for shock / spring install and alignment on an E90?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Guesstimate 3 hours. 3-400$

[rulonger]

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

Guesstimate 3 hours. 3-400$

Thx

[Nacnudv8]

Originally Posted by rulonger

Bilstein B12 pro-kit arrived today. Tire Rack had them in stock and delivery was super quick. Now to find a shop to install (do not have tools or experience to DIY) and align properly. ......

Hello - this is my first post and maybe a dumb question, but why would you need to get alignment if just installing shocks and springs? Can someone educate me? many thanks.

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by Nacnudv8

Hello - this is my first post and maybe a dumb question, but why would you need to get alignment if just installing shocks and springs? Can someone educate me? many thanks.

You should always do an alignment after swapping shocks since you are taking the entire front end of the car apart, and there are just too many little things to put back together exactly to get it to the same point as before the swap. Bring it to a reputable shop and have them check it out first since it may be only a minimal adjustment. The toe may not be that far off, but the camber will be way off, and probably the caster to a degree.

[whinojosa]

Originally Posted by AWDBooSTIn90

It actually doesn't. Its been proven many times that by going with the stock E92 or even E93 M3 front sway bar, you reduce understeer and get better turn in.

The only reason people dont uograde to M3 sway bars is because reducing flexibility in the rear, reduces grip. So if you dont have an LSD, then keep stock rear sway bar or maybe increase slightly with a non-M E93 stock rear sway bar

Good to know! Thanks for the correction!

I guess I assumed that by upgrading the front only, it decreases flexibility and reduces grip (as you stated when referring to rear). If that is true in rear, then it should be true in front as well. Reduction of front grip due to reduction in flex/roll, should result in increased understeer, rear has more grip than front. I stress the "should" b/c there's probably a ton of alternate inputs that change that relationship.

Here is probably one of the most concise articles written: http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/artic...ybar_setup.htm Yes, I understand that this article is referring to multi-hole bars, but the theory should remain the same in terms of stiffness/thickness.

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by whinojosa

Good to know! Thanks for the correction!

I guess I assumed that by upgrading the front only, it decreases flexibility and reduces grip (as you stated when referring to rear). If that is true in rear, then it should be true in front as well. Reduction of front grip due to reduction in flex/roll, should result in increased understeer, rear has more grip than front. I stress the "should" b/c there's probably a ton of alternate inputs that change that relationship.

Here is probably one of the most concise articles written: http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/artic...ybar_setup.htm Yes, I understand that this article is referring to multi-hole bars, but the theory should remain the same in terms of stiffness/thickness.

Our cars have macpherson struts for the front, which gain positive camber as the car rolls and compresses the outer side suspension. This in turns significantly reduces the contact patch between the tire and the road, which then translates to reduced grip and understeer.

Stiffer front bar is necessary for our noise heavy car (50:50 is not ideal for optimal handling, despite BMW's marketing) to reduce the understeering tendency of the factory alignment. But the trick is not over doing it due to the reason you stated.

[Fundguy1]

Cool. Thx

[feuer]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

You should always do an alignment after swapping shocks since you are taking the entire front end of the car apart, and there are just too many little things to put back together exactly to get it to the same point as before the swap. Bring it to a reputable shop and have them check it out first since it may be only a minimal adjustment. The toe may not be that far off, but the camber will be way off, and probably the caster to a degree.

Originally Posted by whinojosa

Good to know! Thanks for the correction!

I guess I assumed that by upgrading the front only, it decreases flexibility and reduces grip (as you stated when referring to rear). If that is true in rear, then it should be true in front as well. Reduction of front grip due to reduction in flex/roll, should result in increased understeer, rear has more grip than front. I stress the "should" b/c there's probably a ton of alternate inputs that change that relationship.

Here is probably one of the most concise articles written: http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/artic...ybar_setup.htm Yes, I understand that this article is referring to multi-hole bars, but the theory should remain the same in terms of stiffness/thickness.

No need for taking anything apart to install struts/ shocks and springs, both front and rear for that matter. Alignment is required only if you are changing the springs for lower or higher.

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by feuer

No need for taking anything apart to install struts/ shocks and springs, both front and rear for that matter. Alignment is required only if you are changing the springs for lower or higher.

But typically don't people install struts/shocks to alter the ride height..?? I know it's done for ride comfort as well but I'm just saying generally I think the ride height is altered regardless and even if it's just 1" that's enough to affect an alignment..

[feuer]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

But typically don't people install struts/shocks to alter the ride height..?? I know it's done for ride comfort as well but I'm just saying generally I think the ride height is altered regardless and even if it's just 1" that's enough to affect an alignment..

Yes and no. I was mainly commenting on your reply that you need to take everything apart which you don't. Only people that either don't know or don't have the tools do that. Whether alignment is needed depends on how much the ride height is altered and what the vehicle would be used for. You said 1". Look at it this way: 4 adults + luggage will drop it 1" if not more especially in the rear , and alignment will be still within specs. Now if you lower it 1" and ride with 4 adults + luggage won't be within the spec anymore. Alignment is recommended but not a must for minimal drops.

[Fundguy1]

I'm doing mine for improved handling. I might change ride height but I'm not doing coilovers specifically to do that. If I do change it, it'll be after I get my new wheels.

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by feuer

Yes and no. I was mainly commenting on your reply that you need to take everything apart which you don't. Only people that either don't know or don't have the tools do that. Whether alignment is needed depends on how much the ride height is altered and what the vehicle would be used for. You said 1". Look at it this way: 4 adults + luggage will drop it 1" if not more especially in the rear , and alignment will be still within specs. Now if you lower it 1" and ride with 4 adults + luggage won't be within the spec anymore. Alignment is recommended but not a must for minimal drops.

I see what you're saying, and I understand.. I know that anytime I've thrown a set of coil overs, springs, struts/shocks, or adjusted tie-rids, ball joints, etc I've always gotten an alignment afterwards and never had any issues..

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

I'm doing mine for improved handling..

^^ x2

[Fundguy1]

I got a lifetime alignment from tiresplus so now after each mod I can just go get it done.

[hellokitty]

In for knowledge as well. Any updates / thoughts to this thread for 2016?

[Fundguy1]

Nothing really new. Coilovers, m3 front control arms, subframe bushings should get most people covered.

[cvc 22349a]

Originally Posted by Ramsey

I drive a 2011 335 M Sport MT.

I am weighing my different options on my next mod and considering a suspension upgrade. I have not tracked my car yet and the stock sport suspension does not bother me.

After doing some research here I am liking the idea of improving handling capabilities by upgrading the suspension. If I am to invest around a $1000 what is the best bang for the buck?

1. Coilovers, shocks or struts? (I am after improving handling, not lowering my car as already sits low with the M Sport suspension)

2. M3 control arms

3. Front and rear anti-roll (sway) bars. I understand that installing the rear sway bars is complicated.

4. M3 subframe bushings?

Thanks!

Did you get your question answered? Same for the past 10 years.
1. Shocks/struts
If you have traditional tires:
2. M3 control arms by TRW
3. M3 rear subframe bushings.
4. Front anti roll bar maybe. Leave the rear one alone.

[E90ALLMANUAL]

Subframe inserts(what I got) or M3 subframe bushings.

I did the M3 front control arms and Whiteline front sway bar first. Later I did the subframe inserts. And of course I have a set of wheels with track tires.

Everyone knows that tires will be the best improvement but after tires, upgrading the rear subframe (either by inserts or bushings) should be next.