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      05-30-2021, 01:20 PM   #1
Gregrobin
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Can't get ARM 5" FMIC Intercooler installed

I am trying to get this intercooler installed: https://www.armmotorsports.com/produ...tercooler-fmic

The existing one came out with no issues. The ARM one bolts up nicely but I cannot get the hoses to line up no matter what I do. I see a notch on the inside of the intercooler pipe that lines up with the hoses on the car. They are about 1/8" off though so the pipe will not mount flush on the new intercooler.

10:50 to 11:14 in this video:



Mine do not lay flush no matter how hard I try to pull them together.

I've been trying for 2 hours. I am about to put the existing one back on and return the ARM one. I used channel locks to try to twist the hose lightly, no luck. Any suggestions?
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Last edited by Gregrobin; 05-30-2021 at 01:38 PM..
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      05-30-2021, 02:22 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregrobin View Post
I am trying to get this intercooler installed: https://www.armmotorsports.com/produ...tercooler-fmic

The existing one came out with no issues. The ARM one bolts up nicely but I cannot get the hoses to line up no matter what I do. I see a notch on the inside of the intercooler pipe that lines up with the hoses on the car. They are about 1/8" off though so the pipe will not mount flush on the new intercooler.

10:50 to 11:14 in this video:



Mine do not lay flush no matter how hard I try to pull them together.

I've been trying for 2 hours. I am about to put the existing one back on and return the ARM one. I used channel locks to try to twist the hose lightly, no luck. Any suggestions?
I don't have the arm one but I know this issue. Stock connections can be a little tricky. Don't bolt it up until you have the pipes on. Trying holding the intercooler with a jack, Or only loosely attach it so you have some wiggle room.
My passenger side one goes on no problem but I always struggle with the drivers side. If you undo the coupling from the charge pipe it give you more to work with for the drivers side.

If you think the notch is slightly catching on the intercooler slot, you could try filing that slot a little to make it a tad smoother. Just shove a rag in there first so no shavings go in.
Lube the connections also help them slide together before he locking spring goes on.
Good luck

FYI
That green (hot side) and black (cold side) o rings need to be seated in the right spot and there is a correct angle they sit as well. Sometimes they get pinched during install.
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      05-30-2021, 03:20 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro View Post
Don't bolt it up until you have the pipes on. Trying holding the intercooler with a jack, Or only loosely attach it so you have some wiggle room.
I tried that, many many times, no luck

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro View Post
If you undo the coupling from the charge pipe it give you more to work with for the drivers side.
Good advice, I will try that

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro View Post
Lube the connections also help them slide together before he locking spring goes on.
I thought about trying that though I did not know if lube was a bad idea inside the pipes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro View Post
That green (hot side) and black (cold side) o rings need to be seated in the right spot and there is a correct angle they sit as well. Sometimes they get pinched during install.
Interesting, ARM supplies 2 black ones. I removed both and installed their new opens. I am wondering if I should put the old ones back on.
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      05-30-2021, 04:04 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregrobin View Post
I am trying to get this intercooler installed: https://www.armmotorsports.com/produ...tercooler-fmic

The existing one came out with no issues. The ARM one bolts up nicely but I cannot get the hoses to line up no matter what I do. I see a notch on the inside of the intercooler pipe that lines up with the hoses on the car. They are about 1/8" off though so the pipe will not mount flush on the new intercooler.

10:50 to 11:14 in this video:



Mine do not lay flush no matter how hard I try to pull them together.

I've been trying for 2 hours. I am about to put the existing one back on and return the ARM one. I used channel locks to try to twist the hose lightly, no luck. Any suggestions?
Get their 3" connector pipes & they will line up perfectly
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      05-30-2021, 04:29 PM   #5
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Using the original O Rings I got the cold/drivers side to mount go flush. The hot/passenger side not so much. If I remove the green O Ring it will install flush, so it's definitely the O Ring.
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      05-30-2021, 05:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregrobin View Post
Using the original O Rings I got the cold/drivers side to mount go flush. The hot/passenger side not so much. If I remove the green O Ring it will install flush, so it's definitely the O Ring.
There is probably a sharp edge on the intercooler connector. I had this and used a file to make it a little smoother. The o ring is getting caught on something.
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      05-30-2021, 05:49 PM   #7
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Ugh, I hate taking this back off now that I have the cold side fitting.

It's bourbon time...
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      05-30-2021, 06:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregrobin View Post
Ugh, I hate taking this back off now that I have the cold side fitting.

It's bourbon time...
You started without booze!? Big mistake....
Jk
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      05-30-2021, 06:49 PM   #9
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I've found a little grease on piping makes life so much easier everything just slide in
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      05-30-2021, 10:26 PM   #10
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I used a lubricant, no.luck. You're suggesting a heavier grease?
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      05-30-2021, 10:43 PM   #11
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Worst case scenario u can get a new coupling with clamps instead of c clips post a pic
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      05-31-2021, 08:43 AM   #12
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I only removed the stock O Rings because ARM supplied 2 black O Rings, thinking they had to be replaced. When removing the green hot passenger side I noticed the O ring was very flat. Now it's more rounded, protruding out, after reinstalling it.

What do you mean by pics? Looking at the pipe it's connected to I have no idea how to even replace it without removing half of the engine :-)

I went ahead and ordered a new green O Ring from the dealer, $13.
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      05-31-2021, 11:14 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregrobin View Post
I only removed the stock O Rings because ARM supplied 2 black O Rings, thinking they had to be replaced. When removing the green hot passenger side I noticed the O ring was very flat. Now it's more rounded, protruding out, after reinstalling it.

What do you mean by pics? Looking at the pipe it's connected to I have no idea how to even replace it without removing half of the engine :-)

I went ahead and ordered a new green O Ring from the dealer, $13.
There is a certain way the o ring sits as well. I remember this sketch from a old thread. You will see how one side is correct and incorrect.

Pic:
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      05-31-2021, 11:39 AM   #14
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I am surprised people are buying ICs with stock connections. What a PITA.

It is probably too late OP but another $100 bucks or so gets you a proper 7.5'' stepped 'race' IC with 3'' inlets and outlets. Much easier to install and get's rid of the crap OEM IC connections. Also, a beast of an IC. The stock connections will eventually be a limitation in theory as well.
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      05-31-2021, 02:28 PM   #15
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Success! I found a piece of metal from the weld inside the pipe fitting on the IC, chipped it off, with a small screw driver, fought it a little more, grunted, groaned, cursed, it lined up. Phew!

Thanks for the tips.

Torgus I did not want to do any cutting/mods thus the 5". The ARM one is significantly larger than stock, it's enough for me and my goals with the car.
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      05-31-2021, 03:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregrobin View Post
Success! I found a piece of metal from the weld inside the pipe fitting on the IC, chipped it off, with a small screw driver, fought it a little more, grunted, groaned, cursed, it lined up. Phew!

Thanks for the tips.

Torgus I did not want to do any cutting/mods thus the 5". The ARM one is significantly larger than stock, it's enough for me and my goals with the car.
Fair enough. Just as an FYI the cutting does not take long and everything you cut is useless and can't be seen when the bumper is reinstalled. But if it meets your needs that is what is most important. Glad you got it on. The stock IC is basically useless.
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      05-31-2021, 09:09 PM   #17
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Was helping install a 7inch arm today absolute pain in the ass getting stock fittings in, the fitment seemed to be off as the stock cold side pipping wouldn't come down flush into the intercooler and it's hard plastic so it would hit and get caught up on other things trying to line it up straight. Maybe it's quality control thing on arms side
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      06-01-2021, 06:03 AM   #18
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The stock connections need precision to get right. I had the same hassle with my old Aliexpress intercooler, it took me hours to get fitted. I replaced it with a CSF one a year later and the connections went on first try.

Makes sense to spend a little more and have less hassle with the install.
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      06-01-2021, 09:01 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustafa.e92 View Post
Was helping install a 7inch arm today absolute pain in the ass getting stock fittings in, the fitment seemed to be off as the stock cold side pipping wouldn't come down flush into the intercooler and it's hard plastic so it would hit and get caught up on other things trying to line it up straight. Maybe it's quality control thing on arms side
Just spend an extra $100.00 on their 3" connectors & you wont have to deal with stock connections anymore. Plus you basically have 3" pipes throughout the entire intake system when you do that
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      06-01-2021, 03:11 PM   #20
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How did you reach the end of the pipe not on the intercooler side? I thought about removing that end to give me more options for installing the intercooler end but I could not figure out how to get access to it.
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      06-01-2021, 03:13 PM   #21
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Reply from ARM when I emailed them over the weekend:

"1: Lubricate the connections on both the FMIC and OEM connections with some motor oil or a bit of WD-40.
2: Insert the OEM c-clips into the connectors on the FMIC.
3: Get the FMIC into position on the car.
4: Get the connectors inserted as far as they will go.
5: Shift the OEM side of the connection clockwise and counterclockwise while simultaneously pressing in towards the connection.

This should get it to seal properly. Also, make sure you have the o-rings included with the FMIC installed.

Should you still have an issue, try installing the connections with no o-rings on the oem connectors.

If they don't fit on please send us a photo of the connectors in the furthest position that you can get them to go in to the FMIC, the OEM o-rings, and the inside of the FMIC connections.
"
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      06-01-2021, 03:17 PM   #22
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Her, this weekend.

New toys/tools I got to play with for the install:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am returning the lift for this one, it did not lift her up high enough thus the wooden blocks in the pic: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jack stands are behind the wheels, the wooden blocks were so I could get the car high enough to get the jack lift under it and then to hold up the intercooler.
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