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E92 Jehnert upgrade total disaster, need your help!
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09-08-2011, 07:47 AM | #23 | |
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09-08-2011, 07:53 AM | #24 |
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As of now, I thought they sound horrible, the only thing that sound good is the underseat. It is hard for me to imagine how good they can be with the hissing noise removed, because I was able to get rid of the hiss when turned amp gain to 0.
Last edited by sunpole; 09-08-2011 at 08:20 AM.. |
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09-08-2011, 08:18 AM | #25 | ||||
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For the speaker wiring, since there is no label of +/- on it. Could you help clarify something, would be greatly appreciated. I used the larger clip as positive end, and smaller clip as negative, is that correct? Quote:
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09-08-2011, 08:40 PM | #27 |
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how are you making out Jerry?
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09-08-2011, 10:08 PM | #28 |
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Thanks for checking man. By setting the high pass at 500 hz for the front speakers, that actually helped the sound a little bit, it is not as harsh as before.
Hissing noise is still there as soon as I increase the gain. I can't hear it when volume and gain are turned all the way down, I am not sure if that increase when playing music and causing the harshness. Of course the whole thing fell far from my expectation. After more tuning, I feel the Jehnert door speakers are too small to handle a lot of the lower frequencies > 200 and it gets distorted easily. Maybe the next step is to add a MS8 or some sort, but that would be down the road, I am staying put for now until someone can tell me what's wrong. I'm glad everything worked out for you buddy, sorry didn't get a chance to take a picture of the door panel for you, hope you should be all set by now. |
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09-09-2011, 05:46 AM | #29 | |
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09-09-2011, 02:17 PM | #30 |
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I don't understand the RCA with a diff signal
If the Head Unit is putting out a diff signal with a typical RCA that would mean one of the signal pair is running on the shield . It the shields should touch in a cable bundle that would mean the outside signals are shorted to each other.
Is there a different kind of RCA for differential signals? How do the amp manufacturers handle this? If the first proposition is true and there is anyplace where jumped RCA's can touch then it looks like you should put some tape or some kind of insulator around them. |
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09-09-2011, 03:01 PM | #31 | |
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09-09-2011, 03:03 PM | #32 | |
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09-09-2011, 03:05 PM | #33 |
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I'm afraid you have something installed incorrectly, since we use these speakers down to 200 all the time without ill effect.
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09-09-2011, 04:09 PM | #34 |
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I have been really careful with the installation. And it was relatively straight forward. One thing I wasn't 100% sure is the positve vs. negative terminal for the door panel, does it matter?
Could you confirm which is positive vs. negative? There is a bigger connector vs. a smaller connector |
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09-09-2011, 06:50 PM | #35 |
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Can you send pictures of your connections
Amp connections and the Power Wire Runs and terminations it might help
some of the experts diagnose your problem. |
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09-09-2011, 10:54 PM | #36 |
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There is definitely an underlying issue here with the wiring, most likely in the Power/Ground realm or within the RCAs. Why not post some detailed pics so we can see what is going on and how it is done so it may be a bit easier to offer solutions.
I also believe there may be some wires crossed within the drivers themselves. I am not quite sure where the confusion is as they are clearly stated Larger is Positive on every driver. http://www.jehnert.de/wp-content/upl...mplett_neu.png
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09-09-2011, 11:05 PM | #37 |
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Thanks Don! That's what I thought, I did wire all the positives to the larger clip. I will try to take the door apart again tomorrow and post some pictures. Appreciate the help.
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09-10-2011, 10:36 AM | #38 | |
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I was able to put the tweeter right next to my ear and I think I've found the source of noise. It is producing very harsh trebles with a lot of noise. I suspect the something is wrong with the tweeters! |
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09-10-2011, 11:04 AM | #39 |
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looks like it could be a cold solder connection at the crossover...
and why are the tweeter connections on the crossover BETWEEN the mids (or vice versa)??? Is that by design?
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Last edited by kaigoss69; 09-10-2011 at 11:15 AM.. |
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09-10-2011, 11:09 AM | #40 |
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What about pictures of the amp install
Ground and Power terminations.(and amp install with showing the
harnessing.) What model car is this is it an M as those doors don't have the cubby hole at the rear that people usually stick there door mounted crossovers in. Also I don't see the particle board like material thats in so many other installs whats with that ?(this question is for the experts) |
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09-10-2011, 11:49 AM | #41 | |
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Can you elaborate what do you mean by cold solder connection? The mid connection is designed in between the tweeters, that's just the way it is. |
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09-10-2011, 11:50 AM | #42 | |
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09-10-2011, 11:58 AM | #43 |
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I can see why
But it might have been better to run another set of wires and put them in the
trunk . But that's a major job . What model year is it? Too bad the designers were obsessed with useless swoopy map holder bins, instead or good speakers. Last edited by ctuna; 09-10-2011 at 12:06 PM.. |
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09-10-2011, 12:13 PM | #44 |
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If you look at the right hand terminal
On your first picture . You can see that the solder isn't a nice shiny blob. (actually its the one just to the
left of the two wires with the tape around them the on on the extreme right is a little better. This indicates a cold solder joint which can mean an intermittent or high resistance connection also its long term viability will be in question . Do a google search on cold solder joints. Do you have a multimeter with which you can check continuity and resistance. You might want to run some checks on your connections speaker resistance to the amp , power and ground connections. Last edited by ctuna; 09-10-2011 at 02:37 PM.. |
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