[VP Electricity]

If I were the best, I would have remembered the color - but I'm glad you have it sorted!

[govtec]

Do I have the right pushbutton switches and diodes? I got the momentary switch instead of the on/off switch. I will ground one of the prong on the switch and connect the other prong to the diodes, which leads to the harness wire.

[govtec]

forgot pic...

[VP Electricity]

Those diodes will let you connect the trunk switch circuit and the hood switch circuit to each other without the hood switch controlling the trunk light. If you do it right

But you seem to be unclear on the purpose and function of a hood pn switch.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/d...dPinSwitch.jpg

A remote starter must NEVER EVER activate while the car is being worked on. So you need to monitor the hood state. If the hood is open, the starter must be prevented from activation.

I'm not sure what the pushbutton is for?

[govtec]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

Those diodes will let you connect the trunk switch circuit and the hood switch circuit to each other without the hood switch controlling the trunk light. If you do it right

But you seem to be unclear on the purpose and function of a hood pn switch.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/d...dPinSwitch.jpg

A remote starter must NEVER EVER activate while the car is being worked on. So you need to monitor the hood state. If the hood is open, the starter must be prevented from activation.

I'm not sure what the pushbutton is for?

I was looking for that exact hood pin switch type but advance auto parts didn't have it and radio shack only had the push button in stock but anyway I'll definitely make sure it's a hood pin switch when I go buy it later this week. I just completed installing the Arrow 5.1 alarm system with 2 exceptions. I can't seem to unlock the door when disarming and I'm not having any luck with identifying the parking light wire in the steering column. It should be a green wire but when I connected to this wire the horn honked twice when disarming. Take a look at the second pic? Could I be missing the DEI 451M door relay? Thanks

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by govtec

I just completed installing the Arrow 5.1 alarm system with 2 exceptions. I can't seem to unlock the door when disarming and I'm not having any luck with identifying the parking light wire in the steering column. It should be a green wire but when I connected to this wire the horn honked twice when disarming. Take a look at the second pic? Could I be missing the DEI 451M door relay? Thanks

You are on the wrong unlock wire or the wire you are on requires TWO pulses to unlock the doors. Is there a double-pulse unlock setting on the Arrow programming menu?

You do not need the 451M.

Uh, the fact that the horn honks when you connect the park light wire to it tells me that YOU DIDN'T TEST IT WITH YOUR VOLTMETER. GRR.

You turn the parking lights on, and you set your meter to DCV, and you ground one probe. Now you look for a wire with a ground on it. When you find one, turn the park light switch off. If the ground goes away, you probably found your (-) park light wire. At that point, I cut it and see if I just disabled all parking lights. If I did, it's the parking light wire, if not, it's not, either way I need to put itt back together

[govtec]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

You are on the wrong unlock wire or the wire you are on requires TWO pulses to unlock the doors. Is there a double-pulse unlock setting on the Arrow programming menu?

You do not need the 451M.

Uh, the fact that the horn honks when you connect the park light wire to it tells me that YOU DIDN'T TEST IT WITH YOUR VOLTMETER. GRR.

You turn the parking lights on, and you set your meter to DCV, and you ground one probe. Now you look for a wire with a ground on it. When you find one, turn the park light switch off. If the ground goes away, you probably found your (-) park light wire. At that point, I cut it and see if I just disabled all parking lights. If I did, it's the parking light wire, if not, it's not, either way I need to put itt back together

Yes, I've tried programming it for the double pulse but it is not working. I noticed that the bulldogsecurity wiring diagram indicated the lock and unlock wire is located in the passenger side kick panel but I used the driver connection. Does it make a difference?

I'm at work now but my brother is working on identifying the right wires.

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by govtec

I noticed that the bulldogsecurity wiring diagram indicated the lock and unlock wire is located in the passenger side kick panel but I used the driver connection. Does it make a difference?

I'm at work now but my brother is working on identifying the right wires.

Some people ask me, what do you get out of offering free tech support. The answer is, I get opportunities for sarcasm.

You didn't follow the instructions, and when it doesn't work, you ask for help before trying to follow the instructions? What was your theory for the diagram specifying "passenger kick" - they were punking you?

Yes, it matters.

Is your brother using the voltmeter to look for the parking light wire?

By the way, my earlier VM instructions were in error. The probe should go to +12V, not gnd.

[govtec]

I got overruled by my brother who said all the connections should be on the driver side. Obviously his assumption was wrong.

Yes, he is using a digital voltmeter.

[VP Electricity]

Tell him he gets coal in his stocking for xmas, and RTFM

[govtec]

Both issues got resolved today! We connected the lock/unlock wires to the passenger kick panel, it requires only one pulse and made it much easier without any programming. As far as the parking lights, my dad started probing the wires with the multimeter leading from the headlight switch and got a hit on a white wire (not the color green as indicated in the wiring diagram). This installation is finally complete. Only thing left is to install the intellistart 4 on Saturday. Here's the hood pin switch I'm ordering from amazon.

Thanks for all your help VP!!! I couldn't have done it without you.

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by govtec

Thanks for all your help VP!!! I couldn't have done it without you.

I'm happy to help - but be aware you lucked into having the former head of technical support for Directed AND the former director of product planning for Directed helping you. That was lucky - which means your plan was a bad one.

You see why we don't want DIY alarm installs now?

[govtec]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

I'm happy to help - but be aware you lucked into having the former head of technical support for Directed AND the former director of product planning for Directed helping you. That was lucky - which means your plan was a bad one.

You see why we don't want DIY alarm installs now?

Yes, well I'm glad you came across my thread. Now, I do have a plan for this Saturday. I've read through the installation manuals a couple of time for the intellistart and have a few questions in mind.

1. I noticed a few wires that have common connecting point in the car. Such as accessory/heater blower 1. I only have one of these wire located in my car but there are several wires from intellistart that needs to be connected to it, like "accessory output (retained)", "heater 2 output (retained)" and "heater/air conditioner 1 output (retained)". Does this mean I have to bundle all 3 wires and connect them to my accessory/heater blower 1 wire?

2. With the starter output wire, which side do I connect this wire to since I cut the starter wire in 2 piece to connect the immobilizer on the alarm? Do I connect it to the side leading to the engine or keyside, the direction doesn't say?

3. I noticed there are 3 red 12V input wire in the 2 wire harness for the intellistart. 1 uses 5 amp fuse and the other 2 uses 30 amp fuse. Can I connect all 3 power leads to the ignition switch power lead which already has the alarm power lead connected to it? (I don't want to overload anything) If not can I connect all 3 to the positive battery terminal?

Thanks

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by govtec

.

1. I noticed a few wires that have common connecting point in the car. Such as accessory/heater blower 1. I only have one of these wire located in my car but there are several wires from intellistart that needs to be connected to it, like "accessory output (retained)", "heater 2 output (retained)" and "heater/air conditioner 1 output (retained)". Does this mean I have to bundle all 3 wires and connect them to my accessory/heater blower 1 wire?

If your car only has one wire, then the wires numbered 2, etc., are unused. But I'm not an IS4 expert and I don't know the difference off the top of my head between ACC output 1 and heater/ac1 output. On DEI RS units those are the same wire.

Those are 12V(+) outputs. If they behave the same, no reason to tie them together. If they behave differently, still not much reason I can think of in this instance. But the IS4 is obsolete, I am not gonna go back and learn it now...hopefully you can figure the difference out on your own.

Originally Posted by govtec

2. With the starter output wire, which side do I connect this wire to since I cut the starter wire in 2 piece to connect the immobilizer on the alarm? Do I connect it to the side leading to the engine or keyside, the direction doesn't say?

This is a common sense question, if you think about it.

Originally Posted by govtec

3. I noticed there are 3 red 12V input wire in the 2 wire harness for the intellistart. 1 uses 5 amp fuse and the other 2 uses 30 amp fuse. Can I connect all 3 power leads to the ignition switch power lead which already has the alarm power lead connected to it? (I don't want to overload anything) If not can I connect all 3 to the positive battery terminal?

Thanks

What does the manual say?

I believe that the manual would say that the 5A needs the (+) battery terminal and the 30A can use the IGN switch constant feed. It SHOULD be able to use the ignition constant to power the 5A as well, but Cliffords were known to be unstable without "power and ground at the battery".

[govtec]

I'm having a hard time finding the tach wire. It is suppose to be black and at the coil. I tested the black wire and it is not the rpm wire. I think the white wire came the closes. It measured between 1V and 6V according to the manual but when I stepped on the accelerator the rpm didn't increase as expected. So I assume this is not it. Any ideas? Am I looking at the wrong location? Thanks

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by govtec

I'm having a hard time finding the tach wire. It is suppose to be black and at the coil. I tested the black wire and it is not the rpm wire.

Either that's not the wire at the coil, or your testing process is faulty. How did you test it?

According to your pic you seem to have pulled apart the harness to the alternator.

Are you sure the coil isn't under the plastic trim piece? I see no spark plug wires in any of your oversized pics.

Originally Posted by govtec

I think the white wire came the closes. It measured between 1V and 6V according to the manual but when I stepped on the accelerator the rpm didn't increase as expected.

ACV or DCV?

I'm sure this isn't what you mean. The RPM probably did increase when you stepped on the accelerator.

In most Toys of that vintage, the tach wire can also be found at the diagnostic plug under the hood, at the pin marked tach (-) on the underside of the plug's cap.

I won't be checking on this any more this weekend, but I hope you find the coil.

[govtec]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

Either that's not the wire at the coil, or your testing process is faulty. How did you test it?

According to your pic you seem to have pulled apart the harness to the alternator.

Are you sure the coil isn't under the plastic trim piece? I see no spark plug wires in any of your oversized pics.




ACV or DCV?

I'm sure this isn't what you mean. The RPM probably did increase when you stepped on the accelerator.

In most Toys of that vintage, the tach wire can also be found at the diagnostic plug under the hood, at the pin marked tach (-) on the underside of the plug's cap.

I won't be checking on this any more this weekend, but I hope you find the coil.

Found it at the ignitor in the driver side strut tower. The car seems to start up fine with the remote start but how come when I am inside the car and arm the alarm and press the REMOTE START BUTTON, it starts up okay. However, when I insert the key into the ignition and WITH THE ALARM STILL ARM AND DOORS LOCKED and press on the brake, the alarm DOES NOT GO OFF. I tried the exact same thing with my other car that was professionally installed with Avantguard 4 w/ remote start and blackjax, the car would shut down immediately when I do this.

The car does shut down when I am in the car with the alarm still arm and the key's are in the ignition and I press the brake pedal.

Other than that this project is complete.

Thanks VP!

[govtec]

I think I found a solution and explanation. When I installed the ALARM last week, I used IGNITION 2 wire instead of 1 because one of the wiring diagram did not differentiate the two. So when I installed the INTELLISTART yesterday I had to tap into the IGNITION 1 AND 2 wire. This morning I switched the ALARM IGNITION 2 wire to the IGNITION 1 wire. Now, when the car is ARMED and I am inside the car and press the REMOTE START button and insert the key and try to drive with the car still armed, the alarm does go off and I can still drive the vehicle but since I don't have blackjax the car will continue to run but at least I now have the alarm to go off.

I'm soldering and tying everything together right now and this project is complete!