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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > vacuum line fix - low boost, underboost, 30ff, wastegate rattle



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      04-30-2014, 09:13 AM   #133
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That's a long running thread (~3 years, 132 posts so far), not sure if I should read the entire discussion. Could we summarize all additional info collected over the 132 posts, if any, and add them to the first post?
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      04-30-2014, 10:04 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joro2077 View Post
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...Cured-Silicone
Rated at -65 to 400 degrees. 12 foot needed. stollen from turkeybaster's post
I just ordered this hose too (in 4mm). Good stuff! Great price on hose + shipping and they got it to me fast!
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...-the-Foot.html
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      04-30-2014, 11:19 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPV View Post
I had a 30FF underboost code as well on my 07 N54. 1 of the vacuum lines behind the oil filter was the culpit. I changed them all over myself. Cost $10 and 1 hour. Easy job...
I've got a 30FF code and lots of wastegate chatter on my 07. I'll be changing my lines out this week. I'm glad to hear that its a simple job.
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      05-03-2014, 11:17 PM   #136
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Just had a general question. I got the P30FF code and changed the two vacuum lines behind the oil filter housing they were extremely brittle. I no longer get the codes but now that I'm paying attention I noticed my car only holds vacuum for about 2 hours. Is this normal do I possibly have another leak? I would think the system would hold vacuum for a day or two.
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      05-06-2014, 05:37 PM   #137
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anyone?
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      05-10-2014, 01:53 AM   #138
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=14

Do i just buy the silicone tubing and replace everything highlighted in the link?
Even the ones behind the oil filter?
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      07-02-2014, 09:29 PM   #139
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Sorry to bump this old thread. I did what the op did and I blew into the vacuum lines. I immediately heard air exiting as soon as I blew in. So it's safe to assume I have a vacuum leak as IM getting 0 boost and 30ff?
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      07-31-2014, 08:54 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsfeir View Post
Here's a quick vacuum line fix that solved a lot of problems for me. My car's boost kept getting lower and lower, ultimately ended up around 3psi when it should have been 13.5psi. I made a boost leak tester which showed me one boost leak, but even when that was fixed, the boost level didn't change. I was getting the 30FF error code under full throttle and the wastegates really started rattling, sounded like diesel clatter.

Robert at Vishnu spent some time on the phone diagnosing the issue and said I should check all the vacuum lines, especially the ones right by the oil filter (red arrow in pic below). He also mentioned that right after shutting the car off, immediately disconnect the vacuum connector (blue arrow in pick below) and I should hear a whoosh of air being sucked in due to the vacuum. They had this same issue with a beta tester's car.

One of my vacuum lines had split right behind the oil filter, found the leak by disconnecting the vacuum connector and blowing air into it with my mouth. While that may sound weird, it was very easy to find the leak. Replaced both of the original vacuum lines with the 5/32 line from Pep Boys and all was fixed. There was vacuum when I shut the car off and boost is now back to normal.

My car is an 07 with 54k miles, as more of these cars get older and the heat from the oil filter takes it toll on the rubber lines, I'd guess more people will have this issue.

I had an appt scheduled with the dealer the next day to diagnose this, not sure what they would have charged, but I'd guess $100-$200 and the line cost $5 at Pep Boys. Great service from Vishnu giving me tips on fixing a hardware issue, Procede had nothing to do with this.

Edit: Probably best to cut the old vacuum lines off as they may be brittle and stuck to the plastic connectors. I used a utility knife to slice the ends of the old vacuum lines open (parallel to the line), then they're easy to peel off the plastic connectors. Also note that you could have a vacuum leak somewhere else besides this spot, this just appears to be a common spot.
I did this and changed both complete OEM lines lastnight but still

"3100 low boost mode engaged -- CEL displayed" code errors via JB4

Not sure why, or what else could be the problem? any assistance from anyone else before I send my car away to a work shop?

- CP
- CAI
- JB4 (map 2)
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      09-23-2014, 11:28 PM   #141
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I was out driving my car tonight and it was holding boost fine then all of a sudden I get half engine and "3100 low boost mode engaged -- CEL displayed" my car is making no boost at all and idk why so randomly. I got towed Friday and im thinking my car was so low that it knocked the ic loose? any other ideas im about to go check those lines in the OP
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      10-18-2014, 09:58 PM   #142
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This post is awesome. I found out what WG rattle sounded like after one of these hoses totally rotted and ripped. It is horrid. And the lack of power was extremely noticeable. Glad to be back.
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      10-26-2014, 06:54 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsfeir View Post
That sucks, mine were difficult to get off also, so I cut the old rubber hose with a utility knife being careful not to cut the plastic, cutting parallel to the vacuum line (slicing it open) worked for me. I'll update the first post with that info.
I did the same. You need about 16 inches (8 inches each). And they sell 5/32 hose by the foot for about 65 cents a food. Super cheap. Great little mod. Eliminated a potential boost leak, but now it's the sensor that's gone bad.
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      11-13-2014, 08:24 PM   #144
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I bought the hoses I need and size . 15ft total.I'm having no issues boosting but do have issue with wga rattle.the line that goes to the brake booster,does that get replaced as well and what about the rubber gourmet on the brake booster?
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      11-14-2014, 12:25 AM   #145
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Do all silicone lines period. Vacuum test all hard piping. I suggest using a mityvac with a gauge. You should be able to build vacuum and have little to no loss. Cap your lines at the end and pump your hand mityvac at the other end to 26-30"Hg and see that it holds. You can test the whole system this way and be sure.
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      12-05-2014, 01:48 PM   #146
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2007 @ 68k miles and my rubber lines were extremely hard. I was boosting 6 PSI regardless of map 1, 5 or 7 (JB4 G5). After going to Pep Boys, I purchased a pack for $5 and replaced those two lines. Wow, Map 7 hitting 18 PSI! Thanks OP!
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      12-05-2014, 05:45 PM   #147
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Yep...those two lines go to the vacuum canisters on the front left side of the engine bay. If one of those are leaking or disconnected, it will cause major issues!
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      01-01-2015, 08:20 PM   #148
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I want to thank you for this thread!!! i wasn't too suprised when I checked my Vac lines right at that spot and they were not only old and cracked but one had come completely off. So I replaced them both and WOW!!! I can't believe how much difference a vacuum line can make. I thought it would maybe be a bit of a difference but it was like BAM!! YEEEEEE HAAAAA!!!!!!! Thanks and this should be a sticcky if it isn't already.
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      01-02-2015, 05:18 AM   #149
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why this vaccum are not considered if we change all by silicon

like here ?

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=894084&page=2
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Last edited by kiteboy; 01-02-2015 at 05:27 AM.
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      03-29-2015, 10:55 AM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsfeir View Post
Here's a quick vacuum line fix that solved a lot of problems for me. My car's boost kept getting lower and lower, ultimately ended up around 3psi when it should have been 13.5psi. I made a boost leak tester which showed me one boost leak, but even when that was fixed, the boost level didn't change. I was getting the 30FF error code under full throttle and the wastegates really started rattling, sounded like diesel clatter.

Robert at Vishnu spent some time on the phone diagnosing the issue and said I should check all the vacuum lines, especially the ones right by the oil filter (red arrow in pic below). He also mentioned that right after shutting the car off, immediately disconnect the vacuum connector (blue arrow in pick below) and I should hear a whoosh of air being sucked in due to the vacuum. They had this same issue with a beta tester's car.

One of my vacuum lines had split right behind the oil filter, found the leak by disconnecting the vacuum connector and blowing air into it with my mouth. While that may sound weird, it was very easy to find the leak. Replaced both of the original vacuum lines with the 5/32 line from Pep Boys and all was fixed. There was vacuum when I shut the car off and boost is now back to normal.

My car is an 07 with 54k miles, as more of these cars get older and the heat from the oil filter takes it toll on the rubber lines, I'd guess more people will have this issue.

I had an appt scheduled with the dealer the next day to diagnose this, not sure what they would have charged, but I'd guess $100-$200 and the line cost $5 at Pep Boys. Great service from Vishnu giving me tips on fixing a hardware issue, Procede had nothing to do with this.

Edit: Probably best to cut the old vacuum lines off as they may be brittle and stuck to the plastic connectors. I used a utility knife to slice the ends of the old vacuum lines open (parallel to the line), then they're easy to peel off the plastic connectors. Also note that you could have a vacuum leak somewhere else besides this spot, this just appears to be a common spot.
I think i mess up my lines ... where does the top line goes to front or rear turbo?
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      04-16-2015, 10:39 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSI Power View Post
This fixed my 30ff, underboost problem.
Thank you OP.

One of my lines in your picture had split. You couldn't see it from the outside because of the braiding. Replaced these two lines and the other two lines going to the round canisters with Silicone vacuum lines from Summit Racing. Used a xacto knife to cut the original lines, very careful, and removed them.

Cars running great now.

I have a May 2007 Build with 75k miles.
honestly this probably saved me from breaking the plastic connectors. Some of my lines were basically continuous with the plastic. Just a quick cut lengthwise and peeled 'em right off.

Went for a long drive afterwards and was like "oh yeah, that's what my car used to pull like"

Ordering some red Verocious silicone vacuum hose now so I can replace the crap I bought from the local auto store!
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      04-19-2015, 12:23 PM   #152
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OP just saved me $6000 that stealership was charging me for turbo and lpfp replacement! Thank goodness for e90post you guys rock!!
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      05-13-2015, 08:15 PM   #153
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Having the same problem and the dealer is asking $5k to replace the turbos. I will try doing this over the weekend. I hope this will fix my issue. Thanks for the info!
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      05-16-2015, 09:56 AM   #154
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Just did this today and found a broken hose near the filter. After changing it, I drove the car hard. Error was gone and my car was driving better. This saved me a lot of money. Bmw of morristown told me it was a faulty waste gate and was asking 5k to replace my turbos. Good thing I tried this first before letting them do the job. I guess they never checked the hose at all. Thank you very much!
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