[CanadianTSi]

Can you move the Wastegate Actuator Rod back and forth at all?

You could always try taking the C-clip off and then shorten the Actuator Rod a few turns, it will hold the wastegate flapper closed tighter and won't let it vibrate.

[cn555ic]

I agree that you should adjust that rod screw to put more tension and maybe it might eliminate the ticking...I mean the screw on the rod looks like there is no lock washer of any sort...Vibrations from engine can loosen it up, maybe causing this tick...Try turning the screw making more tension!

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

I agree that you should adjust that rod screw to put more tension and maybe it might eliminate the ticking...I mean the screw on the rod looks like there is no lock washer of any sort...Vibrations from engine can loosen it up, maybe causing this tick...Try turning the screw making more tension!

I tried this and it's not the cause because the metal bar is also screwed.
In order to create tension, you will need to take apart everything and unscrew the metal piece a full rotation and then screw down the 10mm nut.
This isn't the cause because there was no way that this happened by itself.

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

I tried this and it's not the cause because the metal bar is also screwed.
In order to create tension, you will need to take apart everything and unscrew the metal piece a full rotation and then screw down the 10mm nut.
This isn't the cause because there was no way that this happened by itself.

Oh I see what U mean...If thats the case maybe bring it to a mechanic with a lift and try to get at it underneath, would be your best approach....I carefully listened to your video and your RIGHT! the ticking noise was noticeably different when u placed tension on it...What u need to do is have someone rev the engine while you place tension on it to see if it does solve the problem...Make sure the engine is not too hot and wear some long sleeve shirt with gloves!! Idling made some difference, but I think you need to see rpms of 3000 to see if tension of this rod really makes the ticks go away...Ask your wife to help u out!!!

[Mr. 5]

I fixed it guys!!!

I fixed it!!!!! (for a couple seconds anyway)

Video is being uploaded in youtube as we speak.

I wedged a putty knife in where the yellow connector is in here and it worked after a couple trys.

[AU335]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

I fixed it guys!!!

I fixed it!!!!! (for a couple seconds anyway)

Video is being uploaded in youtube as we speak.

I wedged a putty knife in where the yellow connector is in here and it worked after a couple trys.

If you really found a solution to this, you are e90post MEMEBER OF THE YEAR. I am definitely going to tell my dealership about this FIND and see if they can fix it when i take it in again this week (**attempt #4)

[e90AW335i]

Mr. 5 comes through as always....

[NPDAN]

You are the mannnnnnn... Kudos to you...

[musc]

Putty knife mod FTW!

Just get some two ton epoxy or JB weld to hold it in place

[Mr. 5]

Here's the video.
It took me a while to get that putty knife in a position to where it would stay. At the 2 minute mark it finally stays and then falls out again.

It was so nice to not hear the ticking sound when reving for 2 seconds.

[e90AW335i]

Damn, even at idle you can hear it....

Hopefully you can figure out a solution soon. It shouldnt be to hard now that you know what to correct....

[e90AW335i]

What about shoving a E-clip, or C-clip in there to take up the space?

[SPDFAN]

Good find, just have to find something that stays in permanently. What about the other turbo, did you check?

[2007_E93]

Originally Posted by e90AW335i

What about shoving a E-clip, or C-clip in there to take up the space?

Thats what I have been saying...even using a wire and wrap around that area. If you are just missing the part between the black oval and silver rod then wedge/wrap a wire in there. That would solve it. NO more putty knife....LOL

I dont think it would matter if you wrapped the wire to put tension on it from the left or the right side of the rod. As long as there is tension. Fill the gap....C clip or wire!

[CanadianTSi]

How much tension is on the Actuator Arm? can you move it in and out at all? It should be really tight and you shouldn't really be able to move it by hand.

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by e90AW335i

What about shoving a E-clip, or C-clip in there to take up the space?

That's going to be the next step, but I'm a little worried about how it came so loose.

In this pic, is there something that can be adjusted from the inside of the exhaust?
I don't know if this is the front turbo or the rear.

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by 2007_E93

Thats what I have been saying...even using a wire and wrap around that area. If you are just missing the part between the black oval and silver rod then wedge/wrap a wire in there. That would solve it. NO more putty knife....LOL

I dont think it would matter if you wrapped the wire to put tension on it from the left or the right side of the rod. As long as there is tension. Fill the gap....C clip or wire!

Come on guys!

I used a putty knife to prove a point!
Of course the next step is to use some sort of clip of some kind.

If I'm smart enough to figure this out, then at least give me some credit to not drive around with a fricken putty knife strapped to my engine.

[2007_E93]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

Come on guys!

I used a putty knife to prove a point!
Of course the next step is to use some sort of clip of some kind.

If I'm smart enough to figure this out, then at least give me some credit to not drive around with a fricken putty knife strapped to my engine.

I didn't expect that you would. Just the thought of getting it done!! The putty knife is obviously temporary solution.

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

That's going to be the next step, but I'm a little worried about how it came so loose.

In this pic, is there something that can be adjusted from the inside of the exhaust?
I don't know if this is the front turbo or the rear.

I'm wondering if the DP installation had anything to do with this rod being loose...I mean the mechanic could have wedged a tool or the clamp that connects the DPs to the turbos could have damaged the rod some other way during the installation of from what I hear a VERY tight fit of the aftermarket DP...Even so the OEM ones are a bitch to get off too which also during that process could have damaged the rod!

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

I'm wondering if the DP installation had anything to do with this rod being loose...I mean the mechanic could have wedged a tool or the clamp that connects the DPs to the turbos could have damaged the rod some other way during the installation of from what I hear a VERY tight fit of the aftermarket DP...Even so the OEM ones are a bitch to get off too which also during that process could have damaged the rod!

The mechanic was me and I had no problems installing them.
I've actually done the installation twice.

Also, this is obviously not a DP issue since AU335 and others have the same issue with the stock DPs.

As for the picture, it was taken by someone else with their car..

[AU335]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

The mechanic was me and I had no problems installing them.
I've actually done the installation twice.

Also, this is obviously not a DP issue since AU335 and others have the same issue with the stock DPs.

As for the picture, it was taken by someone else with their car..

yeah definitely not a DP issue. Im still on stock DPs and have the exact same noise with a VERY LOOSE wastegate rod.

[SPDFAN]

This is my 5th turbo car, not saying that I know a lot about turbos, but one common thing with all internally gated turbos, like our stock turbos, is that the wastegate parts (diaphram rod, c-clip, flapper, flapper rod) should not slide AT ALL under all conditions, which means everything should be spot on from manufacturer, as well as the compressor & turbine wheels to the shaft connecting the wheels & the bearings around it. I don't know how yours happened, but saying that the engine's vibration causes the problem is a complete joke. It's either your turbo is somehow a defective unit, or improper installation procedure, or the downpipes weren't made perfectly. I would lean towards the downpipe design because I'd seen many pictures where the pipes are touching each other, and when you are boosting, generating 1200+F of heat, even iron would soften a bit, plus the "not-so-well-made" downpipes, everything shifts. My cousin has an 07 335xi, bone stock with 24k on the clock, it sounds and drives like when he took delivery.