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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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DIY-Changing spark plugs on e90 330i
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11-03-2009, 04:25 PM | #23 |
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I just used this guide and it worked very well. Feel free to put the screwdriver through the top of the coil and use it as a bar if you need some help pulling it out. Oh and watch all the little clips under the cowling because they break easy. Nothing a little superglue won't fix though.
Jesse |
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01-30-2010, 11:29 PM | #24 |
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Its the exact same process for the 325i. I belive its even the same spark plug. I used a standard 5/8 socket and it worked just fine for me, no need for a 12 point socket, or spcial bmw socket. Just make sure the plug is gapped correctly and use a torque wrench.
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03-17-2010, 06:40 PM | #26 |
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Plugs come pre-gapped from the factory. As long as you buy all NGK or all Bosch from BMW you should be fine. As for the 325i, the plugs and coils have the same part number (I think) and the blocks are identical. This DIY should work with any N52. You can probably use it with an N54. It will be slightly different but an engine's and engine. My friend's 540i has a similar process except he as 8 plugs obviously.
If you see oil in the hole where the coil goes, your valve cover gasket is leaking. Not a huge deal but if you see oil in there you should think about replacing it.
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--Marcelo
'06 Arctic Metallic 325i | Sport Package | 6MT | Dinan Stage III suspension | Dinan exhaust | 330i manifold swap! Click here! | Active Autowerke tune | 135i Brake Calipers | Deiselboost caliper brackets | E46 M3 front rotors |
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03-17-2010, 06:41 PM | #27 | |
Freight Dawg
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Quote:
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'06 Arctic Metallic 325i | Sport Package | 6MT | Dinan Stage III suspension | Dinan exhaust | 330i manifold swap! Click here! | Active Autowerke tune | 135i Brake Calipers | Deiselboost caliper brackets | E46 M3 front rotors |
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03-18-2010, 10:24 AM | #28 |
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holy moly the price different is just insane!!! on every part!!!
here in vegas...its all about the dealership treating u bad and raping u on the prices!! that page has nice prices! thanks for the advice |
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03-24-2010, 07:40 AM | #30 |
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no problem...don't know why the admin did not make this a sticky in the DIY section.
Yes, buying from a local dealer vs buying from Tischer is like night and day...Tischer rocks...
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05-10-2010, 03:34 PM | #32 |
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Curious as to what the proper gap for the e9x is supposed to be?
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2X 2006 BMW 325i [Electric Red & Mystic Blue] | ZPP | V1 | Rear Fogs | M3 Lip Spoiler | EAS RemoteKey | BMS Powerbox | Projector90 Headlights w/ LED AE | LED plate lights | OEM Blacklines http://www.tech-shine.com |
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05-23-2010, 01:07 PM | #34 |
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Revised NGK plug
I just replaced my plugs this weekend, 66K mls, dead easy to do. It now idles smoother from a cold start. I went with the revised NGK plug that produces a more powerful spark, which might be reason enough to change them early, but I've also read that as the plug becomes weaker towards the end of it's life, it stresses the coil more, and may lead to it failing sooner. I don't know if that's true, but given the cost of coils, seems like cheap insurance.
In the photos of the plugs above, bear in mind that the plugs shown aren't the same. NGK revised the plug for the N52 for 3/2007, so the difference you see is probably that revision. The old plug is NGK part ILZFR6D11, and the new is PLZFR6A11S (I can just make out the part number stamped in the collar of the new plug in the photo above.) Make sure when you buy new plugs that you're getting the updated plug, I saw both avail for purchase on-line, including at the partsgeek link below. Realoem parts page: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...17&hg=12&fg=05 I bought mine from Partsgeek for under $11 each. http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...park_plug.html The gap for the PLZFR6A11S is 0.43. The Bentley has the torque as: 23nm +-3 nm (18 +- 2 ft-lbs) with copper-based anti-seize, hand thread initially to prevent cross-threading. Also, since you'll have the engine cover off, clean under the rubber gasket around the oil fill cap. It's designed to trap any oil that's spilled when filling. Update: after the change, it would rough idle for short periods of time. I read that with a BT tool I could clear historical info in the ECU so it relearns with the new plugs, the alternative is drive it enough miles so the previous plug info is aged out, and that works. Took ~500 miles. And yes, the new plug did make a difference, it's stronger in the mid-range. Last edited by AlanAZ; 08-12-2012 at 11:39 AM.. |
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06-01-2010, 08:55 PM | #35 |
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Anyone know what the copper plug model number would be? Before anyone chimes in that you should use double plats of iridium, I figure..it'll take me less than 1 hour to perform the work and NGK coppers go for 2 maybe 3 dollars. I enjoy working on my car and copper gives you a better spark too. This is what I've done on my infiniti for the past 2 changes, and have to say, I'm pretty happy.
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06-21-2010, 11:25 AM | #36 |
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No anti sieze on plug threads in an aluminum head..not good!...Steel threads into aluminum housing really sieze up over time, with heat...so it will depend on how long you leave the plugs in there....DO NOT attempt to remove plugs with engine hot...stone cold engine.
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06-25-2010, 01:52 PM | #38 |
Freight Dawg
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Ignition coils just plug in. No need to remove any cylinders.
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--Marcelo
'06 Arctic Metallic 325i | Sport Package | 6MT | Dinan Stage III suspension | Dinan exhaust | 330i manifold swap! Click here! | Active Autowerke tune | 135i Brake Calipers | Deiselboost caliper brackets | E46 M3 front rotors |
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06-25-2010, 05:30 PM | #39 |
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Ignition Coil
I would assume they just pop out but in step #7 there is a silver cylinder connected to the engine that is partly covering the two middle coils. Any advice?
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06-26-2010, 07:49 AM | #40 |
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That's the Valvetronic motor. Just work around it. The coils come out with it in place; it's just a bit tight to grab them. You can slip a screwdriver in through the loop once the holddown clamp is popped up then set a small block of wood under the screwdriver to lever the coil off the plug.
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08-01-2010, 09:04 PM | #41 | |
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I agree these are easy to change but since the car was designed for iridium, not sure that copper is the best way to go but according to the sparkplugs.com site the above listed model will work. If you decide to go this route let us know how it works out. |
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08-01-2010, 11:51 PM | #42 | |
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2) I wonder if you reset the spark plug info on the CBS using the stalk would that reset the ecu? Here is the link for people that don't have the BT scan tool. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=360706
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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