[sylonien]

Somehow managed to stain my stainless steel exhaust tips when I wash washing the car??

It was a little bit warm still the car & weather. Although I thought it'd cooled down already under the shade. Only drove it for like 5 minutes moving it under the cover to wash the car!

Anyway, as I washed, some shampoo and water ran down the tips and somehow it dried up and left these white marks on it and I can't wash it off or polish it off using the usual Autosol metal polish.

Is it fucked now? Sad face.

[Otruba_843]

Break out the 0000 grade steel wool and metal polish.

[5soko]

Originally Posted by Otruba_843

Break out the 0000 grade steel wool and metal polish.

Any metal polish will work?

My RPI exhaust on my M5 has stained slightly aswell, and no polish could remove the stain.

[Otruba_843]

Originally Posted by 5soko

Any metal polish will work?

My RPI exhaust on my M5 has stained slightly aswell, and no polish could remove the stain.

Steel wool is the trick when combined with the polish.

Here are mine when I did them last year. The polish wouldn't take the build up at the bottom part of the tip off, but the steel wool did.

Before:


After:

[5soko]

WOW! and didn't leave any scratches, im gonnna go out and buy that 0000 grade steel wool! Thanks a lot for the tip.

[Otruba_843]

Originally Posted by 5soko

WOW! and didn't leave any scratches, im gonnna go out and buy that 0000 grade steel wool! Thanks a lot for the tip.

That was a good hour worth of work. The substance that was caked on ate away at the finish as you can see in the after picture. After you work the polish with the 0000 grade steel wool, follow up with a rag and polish to make them look even better. I now only clean my tips every wash with Meg's APC+ then the polish and a rag. It takes all of 5 minutes now, but you have to keep up on it every week or 2.

[psnt1ol]

Originally Posted by Otruba_843

That was a good hour worth of work. The substance that was caked on ate away at the finish as you can see in the after picture. After you work the polish with the 0000 grade steel wool, follow up with a rag and polish to make them look even better. I now only clean my tips every wash with Meg's APC+ then the polish and a rag. It takes all of 5 minutes now, but you have to keep up on it every week or 2.

+1 on 0000 steel wool. To soften the gunk a bit, I find that a little CarPro Trix works pretty well.

On a side note.... Several weeks back , I was cleaning the pipes of a 5 series and I didn't have any 0000 on me (forgot to bring them). I ended up using a 3M 3000 grit Trizact sheet. It worked better than expected. Very little polishing was needed after.

[sylonien]

Thanks for the input.
I will give that a shot and see if it works.

[G4z2a]

Sounds stupid but it works some tin foil and water and some elbow grease polishes the pipes great. Used it on my focus st cheaper then buying wool haha

[SHEEDI]

I use this and works great

[sylonien]

I really hope it works with some fine steel wool. Ordered some now.
I will try and get back to you guys

[TOGWT]

Stainless steel

In metallurgy, stainless steel, also known as inox steel or inox from French "inoxydable", is a steel alloy with a minimum of 10.5% chromium content by mass.

Stainless steel also contains varying amounts of Carbon, Silicon and Manganese. Other elements such as Nickel and Molybdenum may be added to impart other useful properties such as enhanced formability and increased corrosion resistance.

Stainless steel (more correctly stain resistant) is carbon based; it resists staining and does not rust in the true sense of the word. Rust or surface corrosion is when the surface finish becomes scaly or forms loose flakes and where the metal is actually disintegrating.

It is composed of a passive film of chromium oxide and nickel, forming a passive film of chromium oxide. This passive layer is subject to a chemical process; technically called oxidation, which is an electro mechanical process. Normally, stainless steel does not corrode uniformly as do ordinary carbon and alloy steels.

However, with some chemicals, notably acids, the passive layer may be attacked uniformly depending on concentration and temperature and the metal loss is distributed over the entire surface of the steel. Hydrochloric acid and sulphuric acid at some concentrations are particular aggressive towards stainless steel.
The passive layer on stainless steel can be attacked by certain chemicals; chloride ion Cl- is the most common of these and is found in everyday materials such as road salt and bleach

Oxidation is an electrochemical process (sometimes called white metal corrosion) it can produce ‘rust spots’ if there are any ferrous metal (brake dust) particulates on the oxidized surface and they are exposed to moisture, but since this is simply a cosmetic condition, it is easily correctable.

Stainless steel is welded by using a MIG welding process; the filler rods used in the welding process must be the same grade to maintain stainless steels integrity

The most commonly used are the 300 series stainless-304, also known as 18/8 for its composition of 18% chromium and 8% nickel and 316 commonly known as 18/10 stainless, a passive film of 18%chromium oxide and 10% nickel, forming a passive film of chromium oxide, which resists further surface oxidation, this usually lasts for years.

Using synthetic steel wool will leave small particles of steel fibres that become embedded in the surface, which will produce rust spots when they come into contact with moisture. Stainless steel is a ‘soft’ metal that is easily scratched, and synthetic steel wool, even #0000 will cause micro scratches

I suggest that you use 3M Scotch-Brite™ Ultra Delicate Extra Thick Surface Cleaning Pads with some metal polish (P21S Finish Restorer) to provide lubrication, to remove any surface rust.

For really tough stains apply Optimum Metal Polish with a White Scotch-Brite™ pad. It is very important to clean as you go

Innosoft B570 is a specialist deep cleaner developed for stainless steel, that has proven to be equally effective at removing oxidation and contamination on a wide variety of surfaces including aluminium, copper alloys, mild steel and chrome. Containing organic acids and a powerful detergent, it dissolves rust and dirt deposits on contact by penetrating deep into the surface of the metal.

Totally organic, it’s safe and environmentally-friendly way of removing rust and contamination from most metals. By eliminating the need of harsh chemicals that are traditionally used in rust removal, it helps protect both yourself and the planet.

You should also wipe down the exhaust tips and muffler cans and protect them with a polymer sealant or a coating product to maintain its appearance.

Discoloration is common to all stainless steel exhaust components, it’s caused by heat, which typically goes from a gold hue and then darken to a blue /brown.

Metal Polishes

Custom blended polish to suit every metal polishing application. Metal polish for aluminium, silver, brass, chrome, stainless steel, copper or bronze - English Custom Polishing (ECP)

[psnt1ol]

Originally Posted by TOGWT

Stainless steel

In metallurgy, stainless steel, also known as inox steel or inox from French "inoxydable", is a steel alloy with a minimum of 10.5% chromium content by mass.

Stainless steel also contains varying amounts of Carbon, Silicon and Manganese. Other elements such as Nickel and Molybdenum may be added to impart other useful properties such as enhanced formability and increased corrosion resistance.

Stainless steel (more correctly stain resistant) is carbon based; it resists staining and does not rust in the true sense of the word. Rust or surface corrosion is when the surface finish becomes scaly or forms loose flakes and where the metal is actually disintegrating.

It is composed of a passive film of chromium oxide and nickel, forming a passive film of chromium oxide. This passive layer is subject to a chemical process; technically called oxidation, which is an electro mechanical process. Normally, stainless steel does not corrode uniformly as do ordinary carbon and alloy steels.

However, with some chemicals, notably acids, the passive layer may be attacked uniformly depending on concentration and temperature and the metal loss is distributed over the entire surface of the steel. Hydrochloric acid and sulphuric acid at some concentrations are particular aggressive towards stainless steel.
The passive layer on stainless steel can be attacked by certain chemicals; chloride ion Cl- is the most common of these and is found in everyday materials such as road salt and bleach

Oxidation is an electrochemical process (sometimes called white metal corrosion) it can produce ‘rust spots’ if there are any ferrous metal (brake dust) particulates on the oxidized surface and they are exposed to moisture, but since this is simply a cosmetic condition, it is easily correctable.

Stainless steel is welded by using a MIG welding process; the filler rods used in the welding process must be the same grade to maintain stainless steels integrity

The most commonly used are the 300 series stainless-304, also known as 18/8 for its composition of 18% chromium and 8% nickel and 316 commonly known as 18/10 stainless, a passive film of 18%chromium oxide and 10% nickel, forming a passive film of chromium oxide, which resists further surface oxidation, this usually lasts for years.

Using synthetic steel wool will leave small particles of steel fibres that become embedded in the surface, which will produce rust spots when they come into contact with moisture. Stainless steel is a ‘soft’ metal that is easily scratched, and synthetic steel wool, even #0000 will cause micro scratches

I suggest that you use 3M Scotch-Brite™ Ultra Delicate Extra Thick Surface Cleaning Pads with some metal polish (P21S Finish Restorer) to provide lubrication, to remove any surface rust.

For really tough stains apply Optimum Metal Polish with a White Scotch-Brite™ pad. It is very important to clean as you go

Innosoft B570 is a specialist deep cleaner developed for stainless steel, that has proven to be equally effective at removing oxidation and contamination on a wide variety of surfaces including aluminium, copper alloys, mild steel and chrome. Containing organic acids and a powerful detergent, it dissolves rust and dirt deposits on contact by penetrating deep into the surface of the metal.

Totally organic, it’s safe and environmentally-friendly way of removing rust and contamination from most metals. By eliminating the need of harsh chemicals that are traditionally used in rust removal, it helps protect both yourself and the planet.

You should also wipe down the exhaust tips and muffler cans and protect them with a polymer sealant or a coating product to maintain its appearance.

Discoloration is common to all stainless steel exhaust components, it’s caused by heat, which typically goes from a gold hue and then darken to a blue /brown.

Metal Polishes

Custom blended polish to suit every metal polishing application. Metal polish for aluminium, silver, brass, chrome, stainless steel, copper or bronze - English Custom Polishing (ECP)

[SHEEDI]

Originally Posted by psnt1ol

Wiki
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel

[psnt1ol]

Originally Posted by SHEEDI

Wiki
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel

TOGWT is a well respected member of another detailing forum. He has been in this industry for a very long time. When he does speak, he speaks from experience so I tend to listen. His knowledge is unquestionable. To be honest..... he probably forgot more than I know when it comes to paint and its proper maintenance.

[PTek Will]

Steel wool can be used in conjunction with a low grit sand paper. I chose to start with and SOS pad (the kitchen ones, basically soap and steel wool). Which got me to pictures 1 and 2. Which already is a great look from head height.


I decided to take it a bit further and used 500 grit sand paper on a drill to get as much of the caked on exhaust dust off as possible.


Next I used a 3" wool pad, that I was ready to toss, combined with M105.


The last step was using the same pad with optimum metal polish (new formula).


It is pretty blingin lol. If this is too much bling for you, I would say after the steel wool pad just go straight to a metal polish. But just wanted to show that polishing metal is very much like polishing paint, except you can start much more abrassive and work your way up. Using a drill attachment for the sand paper and pc for the compound and polish saved me tons of time and energy. Total work time was under 30 minutes.

Note: There are still very tiny specs of dust that just wont come off. I figure if i went to 500 grit and it still won't come off, then screw it! The finish is so blinding you cannot see it. Hope your project turns out well!

[sylonien]

Hm wow! I hope it will work out for me when I do it.

Only other trouble is its quite close to the rear bumper, since I've got the stain on top of the exhaust pipe. Mine is straight cut and having to do it on 4 exhaust pipes...

[PTek Will]

You could jack up the car and unmount the rear 3 exhaust mounts so it will give you some clearance. Otherwise just wrap a terry towel around the tip and polish by hand. I only did my tips for the same reason. The barrels I had to hand polish

[TimReeves]

Originally Posted by TOGWT

Stainless steel

In metallurgy, stainless steel, also known as inox steel or inox from French "inoxydable", is a steel alloy with a minimum of 10.5% chromium content by mass.

Stainless steel also contains varying amounts of Carbon, Silicon and Manganese. Other elements such as Nickel and Molybdenum may be added to impart other useful properties such as enhanced formability and increased corrosion resistance.

Stainless steel (more correctly stain resistant) is carbon based; it resists staining and does not rust in the true sense of the word. Rust or surface corrosion is when the surface finish becomes scaly or forms loose flakes and where the metal is actually disintegrating.

It is composed of a passive film of chromium oxide and nickel, forming a passive film of chromium oxide. This passive layer is subject to a chemical process; technically called oxidation, which is an electro mechanical process. Normally, stainless steel does not corrode uniformly as do ordinary carbon and alloy steels.

However, with some chemicals, notably acids, the passive layer may be attacked uniformly depending on concentration and temperature and the metal loss is distributed over the entire surface of the steel. Hydrochloric acid and sulphuric acid at some concentrations are particular aggressive towards stainless steel.
The passive layer on stainless steel can be attacked by certain chemicals; chloride ion Cl- is the most common of these and is found in everyday materials such as road salt and bleach

Oxidation is an electrochemical process (sometimes called white metal corrosion) it can produce ‘rust spots’ if there are any ferrous metal (brake dust) particulates on the oxidized surface and they are exposed to moisture, but since this is simply a cosmetic condition, it is easily correctable.

Stainless steel is welded by using a MIG welding process; the filler rods used in the welding process must be the same grade to maintain stainless steels integrity

The most commonly used are the 300 series stainless-304, also known as 18/8 for its composition of 18% chromium and 8% nickel and 316 commonly known as 18/10 stainless, a passive film of 18%chromium oxide and 10% nickel, forming a passive film of chromium oxide, which resists further surface oxidation, this usually lasts for years.

Using synthetic steel wool will leave small particles of steel fibres that become embedded in the surface, which will produce rust spots when they come into contact with moisture. Stainless steel is a ‘soft’ metal that is easily scratched, and synthetic steel wool, even #0000 will cause micro scratches

I suggest that you use 3M Scotch-Brite™ Ultra Delicate Extra Thick Surface Cleaning Pads with some metal polish (P21S Finish Restorer) to provide lubrication, to remove any surface rust.

For really tough stains apply Optimum Metal Polish with a White Scotch-Brite™ pad. It is very important to clean as you go

Innosoft B570 is a specialist deep cleaner developed for stainless steel, that has proven to be equally effective at removing oxidation and contamination on a wide variety of surfaces including aluminium, copper alloys, mild steel and chrome. Containing organic acids and a powerful detergent, it dissolves rust and dirt deposits on contact by penetrating deep into the surface of the metal.

Totally organic, it’s safe and environmentally-friendly way of removing rust and contamination from most metals. By eliminating the need of harsh chemicals that are traditionally used in rust removal, it helps protect both yourself and the planet.

You should also wipe down the exhaust tips and muffler cans and protect them with a polymer sealant or a coating product to maintain its appearance.

Discoloration is common to all stainless steel exhaust components, it’s caused by heat, which typically goes from a gold hue and then darken to a blue /brown.

Metal Polishes

Custom blended polish to suit every metal polishing application. Metal polish for aluminium, silver, brass, chrome, stainless steel, copper or bronze - English Custom Polishing (ECP)

Hey I have used Innosoft B570! Found it quite effective. I recently bought the starters kit containing all rust removal products. I use it for almost all stainless steel, aluminum, and chrome appliances. It clears off rust and rust stains in a single use.

[5soko]

I used the 0000 well with some megs 105 compound and it worked good but the steel wool left some marking behind, I had to polish it out a few times with combo of 105 and 205.

[Bobble]

+1 on the TOWGT comment, he's been on detailing forums longer than most have been alive(I'm old as fawk). Anyhow 0000 steel wool works wonders but I try in this order, P21S Polishing Soap, then a well worn kitchen scotch brite pad(non-marring kind for Teflon) with metal polish of choice (I use DG) and finally for those stubborn ones I break out the 0000 again with a nmetal polish. Depending on condition etc. you may need to go straight to the 0000. You will need to polish out any scratches you leave behind.

To the OP about your bumper and tips, tape off the bumper and go to town using an assortment of towels(I start with a terry cloth towel), you'll need to use the shoe shine motion back and forth but you can get these done. I just did a S2K that the tips were way worse, CF diffuser, and had no issues just go slow tape off.

[TimReeves]

Originally Posted by Bobble

+1 on the TOWGT comment, he's been on detailing forums longer than most have been alive(I'm old as fawk). Anyhow 0000 steel wool works wonders but I try in this order, P21S Polishing Soap, then a well worn kitchen scotch brite pad(non-marring kind for Teflon) with metal polish of choice (I use DG) and finally for those stubborn ones I break out the 0000 again with a nmetal polish.

Isn't there anything to replace steel wool or scotch brite? As far as I know, stainless steel is prone to scratches. Steel wool and scotch brite cause scratches on the metal. It is time that we adapt some new methods for the removal and prevention of metal rust.