[ucdbiendog]

Originally Posted by AlanAZ

No crush washer, the drain and fill plugs (same plug) have a built-in o-ring. I replaced my drain plug both times I changed the fluid. You may want to consider a magnetic plug to help keep particles out of the fluid. Gold plug makes them. Turner or Bavauto may have them also.

So I checked the gold plug website, but it is only pulling up the engine oil drain plug when i put in the car model. Do you know what size the oil drain plug is for the tranny?

[AlanAZ]

Originally Posted by ucdbiendog

So I checked the gold plug website, but it is only pulling up the engine oil drain plug when i put in the car model. Do you know what size the oil drain plug is for the tranny?

http://goldplug.com/Automotive_Drain_Plugs/AP05.html

For both ZF and Getrag. I have one installed.

[ucdbiendog]

Originally Posted by AlanAZ

http://goldplug.com/Automotive_Drain_Plugs/AP05.html

For both ZF and Getrag. I have one installed.

Thank you!!!!!

[Zimzimmerbim]

Originally Posted by Dustin335i

here's just my experience:

- Royal Purple Synchromaxx feels awesome, shifts incredibly well - but only for a short time. The feeling noticeably wore out.
- I replaced with Redline MTL 30k miles ago, and was happy enough with it over the 30k period.
- Today, I replaced again with fresh Redline MTL and am loving the smoothness, yet again.

*an excellent shop in the Philly area, VAC Motorworks, recommends MTL over D4 or D6, as it has properties most similar to the OEM fill.

well Dustin after reading every posy in this thread I'm kind of inclined to take your advice for using the REDLINE MTL instead of everything else. Many people say D6 is best and I haven't checked out what the OEM properties were but seeing as you live in Philly and have similar winters to us over here in Quebec. I just need to ask you.... How is the Redline MTL in the coldest of winter days? Must be hard as hell to get it in gear first thing in the morning?

[Dustin335i]

I've really never had a great fluid for working well in the super cold parts of winter; but I think the MTL isn't bad... and is a little smoother than the OEM fill in those cold mornings. Once up to operating temperature, the MTL is the smoothest and longest lasting of the 4 fluids I've tried. I plan to use it again, for sure.

[Cali 335]

Originally Posted by Dustin335i

I've really never had a great fluid for working well in the super cold parts of winter; but I think the MTL isn't bad... and is a little smoother than the OEM fill in those cold mornings. Once up to operating temperature, the MTL is the smoothest and longest lasting of the 4 fluids I've tried. I plan to use it again, for sure.

I've been wanting to change my tranny oil for some time and have been trying to find the right Redline oil. They seem to have the best results by users like yourself, and is the pick on ECS website for applications on the 335xi MT.

How many quarts are needed though ? Don't we have change the transmission oil filter also?

Thanks in advance !

[Dustin335i]

Hey, I can't remember how many quarts are needed, but it shouldn't be hard to find.

Fortunately; there's no filter needed for the manual transmission.

[Rustic_potato]

This is a potential dumb question, but here it goes,
What exactly is "clutch bleeding" and do we not need it here?

[minifridge1138]

Originally Posted by Vignesh_335i

This is a potential dumb question, but here it goes,
What exactly is "clutch bleeding" and do we not need it here?

Clutch bleeding is the act of removing air from the hydraulic clutch system.

It is not needed here because this removes and replaces the gear oil from the transmission, not the hydraulic fluid from the clutch (they are separate systems).

[Seattlesquash]

Originally Posted by CK

The foreman in my dealership told me not to change the fluid. The transmission warranty will be void if you change the fluid.

That sounds crazy if they said that.

[Rustic_potato]

Is this possible without jacking up the back? I have a pair of rhinos and It'd be great if thats enough... I dont really want to get a hydrualic jack which would cost me more than 50 bucks

[rallly]

Sooooooo, Redline D6 or MTL in my 2008 328XI 6sp??? Only issue I have is pitting it into 1st from a dead stop.

[Jagaer]

Changed the brake/clutch fluid last weekend; Replaced front/rear diff, and MT fluid this weekend. (Transfer case will be next weekend, if I can pick up the fluid this week). The car is new to me, but has 150k kms, and doesn't appear that any of the fluids have ever been changed.

Since I was doing both the front diff and the MT fluid, both the metal stiffener plate, and the plastic splash shield are removed. You only really need to remove the plastic splash shield - On my 2011 E91 xDrive it is 5x8mm and 1x10mm bolt.



Loosen the fill plug - 8mm Socket. The drain plug is in the center of the picture.



Remember to remove it by hand once loose. I didn't and had to screw it most of the way back in, in order to get the socket out. The bolt is quite long.




Once the fill plug is out, get the oil drain pan under the transmission and pull the drain plug.



I had metal shavings on the drain plug. Not sure if it is from the transmission itself, or if its from the threading on the drain plug.



Put the drain plug back in and fill the transmission.




I pumped just under 1.7L back into the transmission. (I say just under, as there was 300mL left in the second bottle, but I'm not certain how much overflow drained out)

There is less resistance, it feels less "notchy" when shifting - Guess that'll happen when you replace old fluid with 150k kms on it...

[scanspeak]

It looks like a lot of people are reusing their old drain and fill plugs. Are you having any issues with leaks?

[kegwalker]

No issues, I did mine about 30k ago and was underneath the car this past weekend. Both fill and drain were dry.

[Captain Buumer]

So this is an old threat but this information i have not come across and i add it here:

For cold climates -5 and less.

I did manual transmission oil change and put inside:
Febi Bisten equivalent transmission oil for OEM code: 83222339221 (because it's available everywhere in my area).
Which was: FEBI BILSTEIN 40580

In short when transmission is still cold shifts were worse than the original old oil - not smooth at all.

I then purchased 2L of original BMW 83222339221 oil and put into transmission and in cold temperature it is very smooth.

[GSB]

Originally Posted by iBoost335STi

HERE'S A TIP...
Take an air gun hooked up to a compressor and apply air. The fluid will empty the bottle and into the transmission in about 10 to 15 seconds.

Loved this tip. I didn't need a second pair of hands. I just sealed a hose into the cap of the bottle, turned the bottle upside down, poked a tiny hole in the bottom of the bottle with a pick tool (no risk of plastic bits getting into the oil), then slowly pressurized the bottle with a compressed air gun. Done! No mess, no fuss, and super fast!

[GSB]

Originally Posted by Captain Buumer

For cold climates -5 and less.

I did manual transmission oil change and put inside:
Febi Bisten equivalent transmission oil... FEBI BILSTEIN 40580

In short when transmission is still cold shifts were worse than the original old oil - not smooth at all.

I then purchased 2L of original BMW 83222339221 oil and put into transmission and in cold temperature it is very smooth.

I had the same experience. Even at 40F (5C), the Febi oil causes crunching during gear shifts. I replaced it 3 weeks later with BMW MTF-LT-3 (83222339221) and gear changes are smooth and back to normal.

The Febi oil is not synthetic and smells like engine oil, whereas the BMW MTF-LT-3 is fully synthetic and smells a bit like brake fluid.