[JDG]

According to this it looks like 3/4od hose so 1/2id
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...KDgoM3kf6sIIZg

[335dwagon]

My mistake. I am pretty sure they are 5/8", but could be wrong.

[JDG]

Ill measure it when it comes next week. Hopefully in about a week or 2 I can do a install thread too. I decided to use push-lok fittings as they are easy to work with, clean, and relatively cheap. Push-lok hose is also oil and heat resistant so it will be the final product. Gonna try to look oem/stock.

[FormerRotor]

Originally Posted by JDG

According to this it looks like 3/4od hose so 1/2id

The website states 16mm (.629 in) inlet & outlet, so 1/2id to sounds like it would be about right for a tight fit, although i'd imagine 5/8 (.625 in) would probably work as well.

I'm no hose expert, so I would look to the guys with experience for confirmation.

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

... Are you concerned about the temps the routing will see in that location? I haven't probed the underhood temps yet to see how cold things get in the -20F air temp's (it's been a cold winter). Some of the TDIclub guys have had issues with freezing up, and something I would not want to have happen.

Oh wait, I see you're in Alabama. You probably don't need to worry about the extreme cold temps...

Got some fresh data regarding this. Was out testing some exhaust mods a couple hours ago and used my outdoor thermometer to check air temps by the radiator/engine front area while driving. It was ~9F air temps, and even with full grill coverings in place the probe was measuring ~14-15F at speed (it would go up a lot in traffic or stop lights though). Think I'd be a bit concerned about freeze up if routing across there if the car would be exposed to extreme winter conditions (for example, we're supposed to get -20F on Monday morning with a daytime HIGH of -9F).

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

JDG, from your pic in post #203, did you happen to measure the outside diameter of the main tube the flexible pipe with the MAF connects to? I never took the time to do that when messing around down there.

I'm asking because using the AEM filter on the MAF section with the OEM flexible tube actually forces the filter to be located in a such a way that a lot of space is wasted. If an alternative flexible tube could be used (like a smooth angled silicon turbo connector something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/321047209071?lpid=82) the AEM filter could be more optimally placed and free up more room for a catch can on the passenger side, and significantly reduce tube routing length. Plus the non ribbed silicon pipe might also flow better than the ribbed OEM section.

2.950" outside (barb tips) diameter. 2.650" inside diameter. The only thing i would still see need adapting is the elliptical section where the MAF sensor is housed within. One thing i did learn. The ribbed elbow can be rotated and refastened down to a better trajectory to aim the MAF section in a more aftward direction.

The downer in all of this thinking is that we would loose the OEM airbox and with it the cool air coming in through the snorkel. A portion of the snorkel could be retained to atleast blow cool air in the direction of the cylindrical/or conical replacement airfilter. I did find a K&N filter rated to 370 hp on the Schmiedmann web site that is almost 9" long with a base diamter of 6" and the smaller end has a 4.75" diameter. I was focusing on hp rating rather than fitting the diamter of the MAF section which id elliptical anyway.

For grins, here is that monster of a filter.
http://www.schmiedmann.com/3_series/...e10.htm#paging

You guys are talking about another filter, AEM is the brand? got a link please?

[JDG]

Looks lime you need this onehttp://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=321046529013

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

2.950" outside (barb tips) diameter. 2.650" inside diameter. The only thing i would still see need adapting is the elliptical section where the MAF sensor is housed within. One thing i did learn. The ribbed elbow can be rotated and refastened down to a better trajectory to aim the MAF section in a more aftward direction.

The downer in all of this thinking is that we would loose the OEM airbox and with it the cool air coming in through the snorkel. A portion of the snorkel could be retained to atleast blow cool air in the direction of the cylindrical/or conical replacement airfilter. I did find a K&N filter rated to 370 hp on the Schmiedmann web site that is almost 9" long with a base diamter of 6" and the smaller end has a 4.75" diameter. I was focusing on hp rating rather than fitting the diamter of the MAF section which id elliptical anyway.

For grins, here is that monster of a filter.
http://www.schmiedmann.com/3_series/...e10.htm#paging

You guys are talking about another filter, AEM is the brand? got a link please?

Thanks. That should work out well. Appears to be about the same as the MAF diameter. I used a section of one of these (http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1) to go around the MAF so the AEM would seal better. They fit together perfectly snug with this cheap little trick.

Also, the data I've taken with the AEM in place shows just as cool of intake temps as the OEM box (a couple degrees above ambient at the MAF when driving). This is with the intake snorkel section removed but leaving the part above the radiator in place (it blows ambient air right into the AEM filter area). I also made a little isolation area with some kydex hard plastic sheeting to further isolate the turbo/engine heat. It helped a little, but wasn't much better than just having the AEM hanging without any shielding.

[TDIwyse]

Further back in this thread shows the AEM filter I'm using:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...4&postcount=86

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

Thanks. That should work out well. Appears to be about the same as the MAF diameter. I used a section of one of these (http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1) to go around the MAF so the AEM would seal better. They fit together perfectly snug with this cheap little trick.

Also, the data I've taken with the AEM in place shows just as cool of intake temps as the OEM box (a couple degrees above ambient at the MAF when driving). This is with the intake snorkel section removed but leaving the part above the radiator in place (it blows ambient air right into the AEM filter area). I also made a little isolation area with some kydex hard plastic sheeting to further isolate the turbo/engine heat. It helped a little, but wasn't much better than just having the AEM hanging without any shielding.

I looked at the picture in post 229 and had a follow up question. Did you cut pieces of the lowes PVC to make the MAF inlet circular-ish? If not please give a little more detail as to how the AEF to MAF section was made better.

I did a little more thinking on the N55 style OCC mount. I "did up" this little comparo of the 335D passenger chassis area with air box removed to the BMS kit for the 335i/N55. It appears that the mount for the 335i coolant reservior has 2 tapped holes in it. The D uses the angle one for the forward airbox mount and the i uses the top tapped feature for its reservior. Check out my attachment. I put TDI's AEM photo in there for comparison and you can see this same mount on the edge of his photo.

Question for JDG too:
Did you cut the long hard plastic tube just upstream of where the 90° plastic elbow connects to it? I'm thinking of immitating your method. It looks too tight to cut the ribbed section that is downstream of the hard plastic pipe and install (2) 90° fittings.

[BB_cuda]

damn it, I hate it when i choose the wrong method of posting and then can't attach a file. Per above post, here is the comparison thing i came up with.

[JDG]

BB, here is what I think you were asking for, in low quality. Im going to get some better pics and an install DIY whe I get my BMS can in. For now this is what I've got.

[JDG]

BTW you'll notice I removed all but one fitting. I was concerned that the hose would be crushed or kinked but it was not.

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

I looked at the picture in post 229 and had a follow up question. Did you cut pieces of the lowes PVC to make the MAF inlet circular-ish? If not please give a little more detail as to how the AEF to MAF section was made better.

So, the AEM opening is made of flexible rubber, so it can conform to the more oval shape of the MAF without any issue. It was just a little too big of a circumference to fit well... so the ~0.5 in slice I cut from the rubber coupler (it's rubber, not PVC, so it also easily conforms to the oval shape) made up for the circumference difference.

You know what, since it's off the car at the moment and I have a spare MAF, I could take a pic and post it if the above description didn't explain it good enough.

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

damn it, I hate it when i choose the wrong method of posting and then can't attach a file. Per above post, here is the comparison thing i came up with.

Thanks for going to the effort to post. And thanks to everyone else who's contributing here.

This is getting closer to what I'd like to eventually get to. Although I'd like the catch can behind the AEM filter in this area you're talking about. I'd like to move the AEM filter closer to the front and down with the alternate intake snorkle, using a 45 or 90 deg silicone elbow, then block off the ambient air flow with a "wall" of some kind to isolate the catch can that is behind the intake filter, so the heat of the exhaust/turbo can keep the CCV warm enough to not freeze in the winter.

If I can't do that then I'm going to try to route the CCV down into the DEF venturing port in the downpipe...

[JDG]

why not get the 54 catch can and mount it on the passenger side to keep it warm? by the turbo's?

Even though cooler temps will help catch the oil, but in the winter you could use the turbos to keep things thawed

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by JDG

why not get the 54 catch can and mount it on the passenger side to keep it warm? by the turbo's?

Even though cooler temps will help catch the oil, but in the winter you could use the turbos to keep things thawed

That's the idea I'm trying to get to. Having the catch can on the passenger side, close to the CCV OEM routing with minimal length runs, and close to the exhaust for warmth in the winters.

I presently have the provent 200 filter, which is substantially bigger than the catch can you guys are talking about, and it's only rated for ~340 hp on a diesel (page 20 of this https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmi...nt_en_2013.pdf). Diesels tend to have a lot more blowby than gasoline engines. I'm not sure of the long term consequences of the 335i catch can when operated on the 335d. It might be OK, but I'm not sure it's rated for the type of use we'll be seeing with our engines?

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

You know what, since it's off the car at the moment and I have a spare MAF, I could take a pic and post it if the above description didn't explain it good enough.

Well, I went and did it anyway.

[Mark M]

Loving this thread and watching all of us explore this task about the same time. I was just poking around under the hood on mine.

Regarding the harness connector off the breather pipe that connects to the valve cover hard pipe; I tested out that circuit piece on the hard pipe with my multi meter. It is a simple circuit bridge. So any jumper on that harness plug would avoid any CEL lights.

[JDG]

Well I cut mine right before the sensor on the hard pipe and left the sensors factory distance. I didn't have any data on jumping it so I decided to leave it intact. I have put a few miles on it without the can but a few extra feet of hose and so far so good.

Also as TDI voiced his concerns about flow for the BMS can, I have emailed their tech support for details. I suspect that flow wllh be fine as it appears that the BMS unit works off baffles not a filter and the in/outlet are as large as the hard line from the factory. Flow should emulate that of the factory and not be detrimental to proper operation. When the can comes in, Ill cut the hose and measure the length needed, I suspect around 6ft total. So far as I can see, this is a very easy task to accomplish if your willing to cut the hard pipe and spend about 200$. Another thing, I asked BMS if they would sell the can separate from a kit so that D owners wouldn't have to pay for custom hoses they don't need.

That is all for now, Ill update this as the info comes in.

[Nushibo]

Originally Posted by JDG

Well I cut mine right before the sensor on the hard pipe and left the sensors factory distance. I didn't have any data on jumping it so I decided to leave it intact. I have put a few miles on it without the can but a few extra feet of hose and so far so good.

Also as TDI voiced his concerns about flow for the BMS can, I have emailed their tech support for details. I suspect that flow wllh be fine as it appears that the BMS unit works off baffles not a filter and the in/outlet are as large as the hard line from the factory. Flow should emulate that of the factory and not be detrimental to proper operation. When the can comes in, Ill cut the hose and measure the length needed, I suspect around 6ft total. So far as I can see, this is a very easy task to accomplish if your willing to cut the hard pipe and spend about 200$. Another thing, I asked BMS if they would sell the can separate from a kit so that D owners wouldn't have to pay for custom hoses they don't need.

That is all for now, Ill update this as the info comes in.

He does sell the can separately I believe, and thanks for the pic JDG I will begin my can too under the same method. I had considered cutting the pipe just like that but the two heating elements are what bugged me until now. Ill add another can to the batch. I am going to use the Radium Engineering Catch Can. Its been used in many applications for the E46 so its proven to be useful plus I like the fittings you can use. I will update once I get started

if anyone wants to have a look http://www.radiumauto.com/Universal-...-Kit-P178.aspx

[JDG]

Nushibo, that can prob wont work as the fittings appear to small:

Petcock Drain Kit
-Anodized Aluminum
-4AN O-Ring Barbed Fitting
-Nylon ¼” Barb Mini Ball Valve
-6ft High Temperature Rubber Hose

I am looking at 10an, possibly 12 an for push lok hosing, 1/4 is far to small.


I was going to do a install with pics when 1) it warms up! 2) the can comes in. I had to trim plastic in 2 places to give me the best install. I trimmed a small section on the head and a bit from the cover. I want people to know this isn't a commercial plug and play solution, but a viable option for those of us willing to "play" Mostly the cutting of the plastic vent tube is not something you can undo unless you have a spare so keep that in mind if you have a warranty.