[cmg5461]

94k miles, probably never cleaned

I could scrape off chunks of it with my fingernail haha

[Antetokounmpo]

How much better does it run?

[bmwmsport]

sub'd for updates.

I think we can give you the award right now.. how was that thing still running

[cmg5461]

Originally Posted by bk335

How much better does it run?

.....you have no idea of the difference before and after.

I don't think I gained much power, but pulls are 1000x more smoother. My ign avg also dropped on the JB4. The carbon gunk must have been preheating the air before entering the cylinder. Removing that heat transfer medium!!

.. then I pump flashed
Held 15 psi map 1 with no ignition retarding issues.
Previously I'd get timing drops at 12 psi

.. then I added E30 and wow.
Holds 18 psi (maxed out map 5) with no timing drops.

I bought the equipment, so I'll be doing this every 25k miles. I can't recommend this service enough

FYI:
If anyone is attempting this themselves and the valves are as bad as this, buy a brass brush to aid in the cleaning. Walnuts ALONE will take forever and make you hate your life. I went through about 10 pounds of shells on one cylinder trying to make it spotless.

1. 2 second short bursts for about 30 seconds
2. remove port adapter
3. blow out excess walnut shells
4. quick scrub with brass bush (I used a long screwdriver with a soft magnetic head.. Should have thought of this before doing it)
5. insert port adapter
6. 2 second short bursts for 60 seconds (repeat as necessary)
7. spotless valves

Removing all of that with just walnuts is a waste of medium. It's very gummy. it's like a very viscous oil, felt like dehydrated molasses.

Doing this every 25k miles will greatly reduce the pain of trying to make it spotless.

FYI, 4 CFM @ 90 psi was adequate, but next time, I'd rather go with double that to hold pressure for longer.

[olivojoe]

Originally Posted by cmg5461

.....you have no idea of the difference before and after.

I don't think I gained much power, but pulls are 1000x more smoother. My ign avg also dropped on the JB4. The carbon gunk must have been preheating the air before entering the cylinder. Removing that heat transfer medium!!

.. then I pump flashed
Held 15 psi map 1 with no ignition retarding issues.
Previously I'd get timing drops at 12 psi

.. then I added E30 and wow.
Holds 18 psi (maxed out map 5) with no timing drops.

I bought the equipment, so I'll be doing this every 25k miles. I can't recommend this service enough

How hard is it to do yourself, and how much was the equipment?

[bmwmsport]

Originally Posted by olivojoe

How hard is it to do yourself, and how much was the equipment?

+1, I know there are threads already on this, but I want to know your opinion.

[88atlas07]

I'm definitely due for a cleaning. Last done a little over 30k miles ago with carb cleaner and a weapons cleaning kit. Took forever!

[Antetokounmpo]

Originally Posted by cmg5461

.....you have no idea of the difference before and after.

I don't think I gained much power, but pulls are 1000x more smoother. My ign avg also dropped on the JB4. The carbon gunk must have been preheating the air before entering the cylinder. Removing that heat transfer medium!!

.. then I pump flashed
Held 15 psi map 1 with no ignition retarding issues.
Previously I'd get timing drops at 12 psi

.. then I added E30 and wow.
Holds 18 psi (maxed out map 5) with no timing drops.

I bought the equipment, so I'll be doing this every 25k miles. I can't recommend this service enough

FYI:
If anyone is attempting this themselves and the valves are as bad as this, buy a brass brush to aid in the cleaning. Walnuts ALONE will take forever and make you hate your life. I went through about 10 pounds of shells on one cylinder trying to make it spotless.

1. 2 second short bursts for about 30 seconds
2. remove port adapter
3. blow out excess walnut shells
4. quick scrub with brass bush (I used a long screwdriver with a soft magnetic head.. Should have thought of this before doing it)
5. insert port adapter
6. 2 second short bursts for 60 seconds (repeat as necessary)
7. spotless valves

Removing all of that with just walnuts is a waste of medium. It's very gummy. it's like a very viscous oil, felt like dehydrated molasses.

Doing this every 25k miles will greatly reduce the pain of trying to make it spotless.

FYI, 4 CFM @ 90 psi was adequate, but next time, I'd rather go with double that to hold pressure for longer.

I really need to get mine done. I'm at 89k and I don't think they've been cleaned.


Question, the pump flash is why you're able to hit 18psi on E30, correct? I'm more or less a noob when it comes to back end flashes.

[cmg5461]

Originally Posted by bmwmsport

+1, I know there are threads already on this, but I want to know your opinion.

Ok, my trusted indy shop quoted me $450. No. I'll do it myself, kthx.

Items required:

Prices include shipping. Bavauto has free shipping > $200, make it count

1. EBAY
2. $27 - Walnut shells: 18/40 grit, same as in the kit from bavarian autosport. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131313874697
   (FREE SHIPPING IS THE KEY HERE. YOU WILL PAY >$25 TO SHIP THIS ANYWHERE ELSE)
   
   HARBOR FREIGHT
3. $70 - 20lb abrasive blaster (pretty sure this is the one in the kit)
   http://www.harborfreight.com/20-lb-p...8994-8799.html
   
   BAVARIAN AUTOSPORT
4. $17.95 - Walnut blaster wand - item #B1100003 (http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp)
5. $39.95 - Port adapter - item #B1100004, the plastic one is 3d printed and flimsy as shit. The direction of the print causes it to split if you put pressure the wrong way on it. Mine split and I ended up duct taping it. Next time I do this, I'll buy the aluminum one for $88, (81 29 2 208 037)
6. $6.95 - Throttle body gasket (unneeded, I didn't remove the throttle body), (item # 13 54 7 522 361)
7. $19.95 - intake gaskets (I'm lazy and didn't even use these. I just torqued the intake manifold nuts to 20 ft-lb and called it a day. no leaks, next time I will replace) (item #MS19660)
   
   HOME SHITPOT(depot)
8. $99.00 (on sale?) - 4.0 SCFM @ 90 psi 8gal air compressor - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-G...530B/202564847 (I'd go for something maybe 8cfm and a larger tank. You use a large volume of air with sand blasting. The waiting sucked) (I picked up in store, so no shipping)
9. $??.?? shop vac - I used a friends because I'm a moocher
   
   VARIOUS PARTS
10. $20+ - 1/4" to 1/4" air compressor hose, 1/4" male NPT to 1/4" make compressor quick release fitting, energy drinks, and adderall

Totals:

• $300, plastic port adapter, no shop vac
• $350, aluminum port adapter, no shop vac
• add $50 for an alright shop vac
• add $100 for a better air compressor
• add $27 each time you do this for walnut shells and save $350 from a shop
• pay yourself $50 an hour for the labor of this shitty job

Should I turn this into a DIY?

[cmg5461]

Originally Posted by bk335

I really need to get mine done. I'm at 89k and I don't think they've been cleaned.


Question, the pump flash is why you're able to hit 18psi on E30, correct? I'm more or less a noob when it comes to back end flashes.

Yes, I was a noob too. I flashed it in the mountains with no cell service or internet. Talk about risky and big balls.

E30 was 3 gallons of E85 with a fill of 93.

JB4 4/2 command (+2 psi on most maps, 5 is unaffected I believe)

My avg ign dropped to 0.5 with E30, minimum timing was 1.8 during the pull, (probably not good, but 3 cylinders stayed at 5.5 so whatever)

Pump flash makes the engine run much smoother, especially when knock events retard timing.

I have stock downpipes, lelz. Living risky.

JB4 map 5, vrsf chargepipe, tial bov, bms dci. Only mods.

Next will be intercooler, then downpipes. Probably at the same time though. Downpipes don't really make the engine run any better so it's on the bottom of my list. Sure it's +30wtq, but that's on the back burner to reducing combustion temps

[335NJ]

FWIW, the entire walnut blast kit can be rented from BavAuto.

[cmg5461]

Originally Posted by 335NJ

FWIW, the entire walnut blast kit can be rented from BavAuto.

That it can, but shipping and cost of materials still makes it useful to just buy it. Plus the reduced stress is nice. I did a timing belt on my B5.5 V6 passat with a rented kit. The stress was unreal making sure I didn't damage/lose anything. But buying it was out of the question as the total cost of tools was >$500. Rented the kit for $60.

I found it more economical to just buy the sandblaster considering everything else that's needed for this job.

The cost of the tools included in the rental kit comes out to ~$150 anway (20lb sand blaster ($70), wand ($18) and port adapter ($40/$88))

[bmwmsport]

I may have to consider that.. but, first things first, I have to find a car

[Antetokounmpo]

Originally Posted by cmg5461

Yes, I was a noob too. I flashed it in the mountains with no cell service or internet. Talk about risky and big balls.

E30 was 3 gallons of E85 with a fill of 93.

JB4 4/2 command (+2 psi on most maps, 5 is unaffected I believe)

My avg ign dropped to 0.5 with E30, minimum timing was 1.8 during the pull, (probably not good, but 3 cylinders stayed at 5.5 so whatever)

Pump flash makes the engine run much smoother, especially when knock events retard timing.

I have stock downpipes, lelz. Living risky.

JB4 map 5, vrsf chargepipe, tial bov, bms dci. Only mods.

Next will be intercooler, then downpipes. Probably at the same time though. Downpipes don't really make the engine run any better so it's on the bottom of my list. Sure it's +30wtq, but that's on the back burner to reducing combustion temps

Great thanks, I'll be flashing the pump flash in a few days when my BT cable gets here. I've been running some E30 to test my LPFP condition and the trims look good so I'll be doing some E30 Map 5 when I flash it.

I'm pretty much in the same boat as you, JB4, vrsf charge pipe and DCI. I'll be doing FMIC next as well.

Also did you get some numbers from the dyno day? I saw you posted you were going to one on N54tech.

[924er]

That's bad but I've seen worse where the valve stems have a big glob over it

[galahad05]

Actually looks similar to mine back at 66k miles.
I know I posted pics here back then....

[galahad05]

Ah found two of the pics.

Mine from way back when.

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by cmg5461

That it can, but shipping and cost of materials still makes it useful to just buy it. Plus the reduced stress is nice. I did a timing belt on my B5.5 V6 passat with a rented kit. The stress was unreal making sure I didn't damage/lose anything. But buying it was out of the question as the total cost of tools was >$500. Rented the kit for $60.

I found it more economical to just buy the sandblaster considering everything else that's needed for this job.

The cost of the tools included in the rental kit comes out to ~$150 anway (20lb sand blaster ($70), wand ($18) and port adapter ($40/$88))

Very nice! Perhaps you can consider doing this for locals for a fee.

[AWD Addict]

Here are mine. About 40k of muck on there.

Based on the fact I can see bare metal in your dirty shot, and you can't in mine, I think I win.

[Fnne99]

Originally Posted by cmg5461

Yes, I was a noob too. I flashed it in the mountains with no cell service or internet. Talk about risky and big balls.

E30 was 3 gallons of E85 with a fill of 93.

JB4 4/2 command (+2 psi on most maps, 5 is unaffected I believe)

My avg ign dropped to 0.5 with E30, minimum timing was 1.8 during the pull, (probably not good, but 3 cylinders stayed at 5.5 so whatever)

Pump flash makes the engine run much smoother, especially when knock events retard timing.

I have stock downpipes, lelz. Living risky.

JB4 map 5, vrsf chargepipe, tial bov, bms dci. Only mods.

Next will be intercooler, then downpipes. Probably at the same time though. Downpipes don't really make the engine run any better so it's on the bottom of my list. Sure it's +30wtq, but that's on the back burner to reducing combustion temps

Nice write up!

btw. 3gal of E and the rest 93 is closer to E20-25%. Since you're running a flash, you should be able to run E30-40% safely (after logs of course). That extra E in the fuel should keep your combustion temps nice and cool even without an intercooler plus a nice gain in power over your current E mix. IMO, since you're running a E85 mix, do the downpipes first since the intake charge temp isn't as important when running Ethanol.

[Tsujen]

Here's mine after 62k, definitely can feel the difference so glad I got it done and was only $300 from a shop.

[jauloz]

I win?