[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by cleex024

hey guys...just went back to 4.03 e30 mapping and damn pulls just as hard as i remember 4.02 being. i actually went back to stg 2+ agr after my clutch started slipping on e30 map but for some reason my clutch isnt slipping anymore.

anyhow i wanted to know how to read some of the logs. i was getting some corrections on basically all cylinders but it was weird cause the only corrections came at the beginning of the log at a constant speed. once i started doing some pulls there were no corrections...and the corrections were -3.0. logged the timing corrections that wasnt specific to any cylinders and it was 0 the whole time. does it seem like anything is wrong?

anything else i should log that is really important? i looked at the lpfp and hpfp and all targets were being met so that was good...lpfp never went under 72.

there was a great Lad on here, once said, a gennerally -3.38 across 3 or less cyl. isn't a bad thing.

read this thread...

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=696472

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

there was a great Lad on here, once said, a gennerally -3.38 across 3 or less cyl. isn't a bad thing.

read this thread...

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=696472

thanks man...but hopefully its not really a correction cause its only for a split second and only happens soon after i start logging then never happens again. kind of weird.

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by cleex024

thanks man...but hopefully its not really a correction cause its only for a split second and only happens soon after i start logging then never happens again. kind of weird.

When driving around normally the DME will use timing corrections as a means to reduce timing during part throttle and it's no big deal. As long as you're clear of corrections during a pull you're perfectly fine.

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by Ænema

When driving around normally the DME will use timing corrections as a means to reduce timing during part throttle and it's no big deal. As long as you're clear of corrections during a pull you're perfectly fine.

awesome that is exactly what i wanted to hear. because im running the e30 map the car is running smoother than my stg 2+...its awesome.

so you guys think if i fill up at 0 miles left with 5.2 gallons of e85 and top it off with 93 should be plenty right?

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by cleex024

awesome that is exactly what i wanted to hear. because im running the e30 map the car is running smoother than my stg 2+...its awesome.

so you guys think if i fill up at 0 miles left with 5.2 gallons of e85 and top it off with 93 should be plenty right?

You should be fine but I would grab a log just to be sure.

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by Ænema

You should be fine but I would grab a log just to be sure.

ok thanks man.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by COBB Tuning

We saw very few issues with the v4.02 maps and only changed the WGDC table slightly for the v4.03 maps. These maps are extremely aggressive and we do definitely recommend datalogging for anyone running them. If you see timing corrections on multiple cylinders, you should modify the timing tables via ATR or seek a tune more suited for your particular vehicle from a pro-tuner or e-tuner. Send me some logs if you'd like me to review them for you.

-Josh

Cobb, I recently went to a track, which has 3 strightaways where speeds in excess of 150mph could be reached by high HP cars before braking. On the front straight, I would throw code 30FF, with the 100 octane race map, and stage 2+ aggressive, but only right after the shift into 5th gear @ just over 140mph. I didn't log this, but will do so when I visit this track again soon. Unlike in the past, I decided to continue racing even after the code was trown. It would seem that the ecu's ability to cut power after an engine malfunction code has been thrown has been eliminated by these two off the shelf tunes, as I was able to reach the same 145mph/140mph with the race map, and stage 2+ aggressive after the code was thrown. It appears at least from a power perspective that your tunes inhibit our ecu's engine torque, and load limiters, which is the reason for this effect, am I right? I'm asking because in the past with piggy back tunes on the stock ecu, when limp is triggered by one of these codes, at least 50% of the power was lost

[marv85]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Cobb, I recently went to a track, which has 3 strightaways where speeds in excess of 150mph could be reached by high HP cars before braking. On the front straight, I would throw code 30FF, with the 100 octane race map, and stage 2+ aggressive, but only right after the shift into 5th gear @ just over 140mph. I didn't log this, but will do so when I visit this track again soon. Unlike in the past, I decided to continue racing even after the code was trown. It would seem that the ecu's ability to cut power after an engine malfunction code has been thrown has been eliminated by these two off the shelf tunes, as I was able to reach the same 145mph/140mph with the race map, and stage 2+ aggressive after the code was thrown. It appears at least from a power perspective that your tunes inhibit our ecu's engine torque, and load limiters, which is the reason for this effect, am I right? I'm asking because in the past with piggy back tunes on the stock ecu, when limp is triggered by one of these codes, at least 50% of the power was lost

30FF can be either boost leaks, or boost control issues like vacuum lines or weak boost solenoids. My car would throw 30FF everytime shifting into 4th till I changed the solenoids and everything went back to normal. FYI I was running a map far more aggressive than the race map

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by marv85

30FF can be either boost leaks, or boost control issues like vacuum lines or weak boost solenoids. My car would throw 30FF everytime shifting into 4th till I changed the solenoids and everything went back to normal. FYI I was running a map far more aggressive than the race map

Like I said, power is not at all affected, after it is thrown, so It can't be a mechanical issue. btw, what is the part number for our boost solenoids? Might as well change those since I'm well over 100K miles

[enrita]

Its mechanical. Check vacuum lines .

[marv85]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Like I said, power is not at all affected, after it is thrown, so It can't be a mechanical issue. btw, what is the part number for our boost solenoids? Might as well change those since I'm well over 100K miles

Originally Posted by enrita

Its mechanical. Check vacuum lines .

+1, trust us it's mechanical.

this is your boost solenoid's part number 11747595374 , if you enter it in searches it might say it was superseded which is fine

like enrita said check the vacuum lines first since it's cheaper

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by enrita

Its mechanical. Check vacuum lines .

My vacuum lines are all upgraded high temp silicone.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, but my question to cobb still stands. I don't care about what's causing it because power isn't at all reduced with their flash tune, after this limp mode. The car is still mechanically able to provide 18-19lbs of boost, and unable to restrict boost after limp mode.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by marv85

+1, trust us it's mechanical.

this is your boost solenoid's part number 11747595374 , if you enter it in searches it might say it was superseded which is fine

like enrita said check the vacuum lines first since it's cheaper

Like I said, vacuum lines are fine, and there are no boost leaks. If anything it's my oem turbos, cuz they are a 10/06 build date, with 105K miles, and almost 50 full track days.

Again, thanks so much for the suggestions guys, I appreciate it, really. I just want my technical question regarding the OTS maps answered by Cobb.

[enrita]

Again thats a boost issue, nothing that can harm the engine. I noticed as well after getting 30FF that boost still works which is good otherwise you need to erase codes or restart engine. Nice to do that while tracking.. With vanos code boost control is shut off with code 3100 for example. Thats the code that reduce power since turbos are shut down

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by enrita

Again thats a boost issue, nothing that can harm the engine. I noticed as well after getting 30FF that boost still works which is good otherwise you need to erase codes or restart engine. Nice to do that while tracking.. With vanos code boost control is shut off with code 3100 for example. Thats the code that reduce power since turbos are shut down

Ah, so it's 3100 that cuts power huh? I could have sworn though that with my stock tune and juice box, power was cut with 30FF alone, since it's the stock ecu.

Can't be mechanical though because the boost leak would have shown up well before 4th gear redline. It also wasn't doing this at all the week prior at a smaller track, where peak mph was 120.

Also, Cobb's code writing is weird because it loves to throw 30FF/30FE when it's cold out, at the track, but as the day warms up, the codes vanish. Thats what happens when you write code, and test cars in Texas. For this reason, I don't always jump to mechanical, since I know my car is sound.

[Killerfish2012]

Cobb, my original question still stands. Sorry about this side talk.

[enrita]

The limp code is 3100 and its triggered normally by other codes.

[marv85]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Ah, so it's 3100 that cuts power huh? I could have sworn though that with my stock tune and juice box, power was cut with 30FF alone, since it's the stock ecu.

Can't be mechanical though because the boost leak would have shown up well before 4th gear redline. It also wasn't doing this at all the week prior at a smaller track, where peak mph was 120.

Also Cobbs code writing is weird because it loves to throw 30FF/30FE when it's cold out, but as the day warms up, the codes vanish. Thats what happens when you write code, and test cars in Texas. For this reason, I don't always jump to mechanical, since I know my car is sound.

well the thing is my you are slightly underboosting (aka small boost leak, or vacuum issue, or boost solenoid that's starting to be weak), is you don;t throw 30FF unless you really load the car for a while hence long gears.

my 30FF started in 4th, next they started popping in end of third. my issue specifically was boost solenoids.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by marv85

well the thing is my you are slightly underboosting (aka small boost leak, or vacuum issue, or boost solenoid that's starting to be weak), is you don;t throw 30FF unless you really load the car for a while hence long gears.

my 30FF started in 4th, next they started popping in end of third. my issue specifically was boost solenoids.

yes, but the 30FF shows up with those two aformentioned maps in the morning, when we start racing below 50F. By the afternoon, same car, same track, the codes stop being thrown, and the ambient is 79F. That's a tune issue my friend.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by marv85

well the thing is my you are slightly underboosting (aka small boost leak, or vacuum issue, or boost solenoid that's starting to be weak), is you don;t throw 30FF unless you really load the car for a while hence long gears.

my 30FF started in 4th, next they started popping in end of third. my issue specifically was boost solenoids.

Keep in mind the HUGE difference between racing on the street/dragstrip, and on the track. The vehicle is seeing varied, continuous driving with WOT and decl, 1-5th, with no breaks for 30 continuous mins. I guarantee you that if you bring your car to the track, and race, you will throw codes, that you weren't previously throwing.

[enrita]

Could be , was having the same behaviour when i drove down from sweden to italy. As soon as outside temps went above 10c the 30FF stopped.

[Glowin]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Cobb, I recently went to a track, which has 3 strightaways where speeds in excess of 150mph could be reached by high HP cars before braking. On the front straight, I would throw code 30FF, with the 100 octane race map, and stage 2+ aggressive, but only right after the shift into 5th gear @ just over 140mph. I didn't log this, but will do so when I visit this track again soon. Unlike in the past, I decided to continue racing even after the code was trown. It would seem that the ecu's ability to cut power after an engine malfunction code has been thrown has been eliminated by these two off the shelf tunes, as I was able to reach the same 145mph/140mph with the race map, and stage 2+ aggressive after the code was thrown. It appears at least from a power perspective that your tunes inhibit our ecu's engine torque, and load limiters, which is the reason for this effect, am I right? I'm asking because in the past with piggy back tunes on the stock ecu, when limp is triggered by one of these codes, at least 50% of the power was lost

This is odd, I've had a similar issue as you in getting codes on track only with my Cobb, but I got a few other codes too. In my case, the car did go into limp mode, but I also had the 3100 code as well. Temps were around 85 to 90 degrees I'd say, so not cool like yours.

It happened last summer, when I took my stage 2+ car to the track, with the Cobb tune, and after just two laps, it went into limp mode. Could never figure out what it was. Car kept going into limp mode afterwards for a week or so, anytime I boosted more than 4/5 PSI, to the point I was convinced that I had a boost leak, but could find none.

Then all of a sudden it went away after a couple of weeks by itself, and has been driving fine for months afterwards, up to 18 PSI boost no problems. I've not tracked it since.

Another member with the exact same problem as me (he only got the codes when tracking his car) PM'd me after saying he was told by Cobb that their OTS maps code doesn't work well on cars with stiff wastegates on the track, and that's why after a few laps, it threw a limp code. He wasn't able to address it, without doing a Protune, so gave up and went back to Procede, and hasn't had any issues.

I'm hoping to avoid spending a few hundred on a Protune, and don't feel like going Procede again, so I need to figure out what's going on for sure.

Here's my post on it: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726596