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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Rust-proofing anyone?
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03-31-2010, 09:22 PM | #1 |
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Rust-proofing anyone?
Hey Folks,
I know this is probably the wrong season to ask this question... but I was wondering.. did anyone rust-proofed their car aftermarket? As I recalled, the dealer didn't even offer me rust-proofing, they said the car is guaranteed against corrosion so I didn't need it.. instead they kept pushing the tire/wheel insurance.... So just wondering... is what the dealer said true? Is whatever OEM rust protection BMW did to their cars at the factory enough? Has anyone done any after market rust proofing? Thanks! |
03-31-2010, 10:14 PM | #2 |
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It makes sense only if you plan to keep the car for more than 12 years. BMW perforation rust warranty is 12 years unlimited km.
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03-31-2010, 10:28 PM | #3 |
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i got mine done last fall at Krown in Brampton i think i paid around or just under $100 - part of some special they had on maxbimmer - and will prolly do it every fall
that perforation rust warranty is prolly like the other 'rust warranties' where they only come into affect if u have a rust hole (perforation), i'm assuming here. if i'm wrong that would be pretty cool. anyways i hate rust and not worried about perforations but about rust in the wheel wells and stuff. |
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04-01-2010, 12:48 AM | #4 |
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Waste of $$, some 18 yr old will be driving my car in 12 years...
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04-01-2010, 01:13 AM | #5 |
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Had it done on my last car, never would do it again. It's disgusting, just collects dirt and stuff through the years. I don't think I can keep a car for longer than 4 years, forget 12. But as long as you take care of your car, even if you keep your car for 12 years it shouldn't rust.
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04-01-2010, 08:21 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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04-01-2010, 08:48 AM | #8 |
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the greasy crap is disgusting i agree but it only stick around for like a week
i'll take disgusting for 1 week to avoid surface rust a few years down the line, but if ur exchanging cars every 3-4 years then i wouldn't bother |
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04-01-2010, 09:27 AM | #9 |
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I think rustproofing is worth it (Krown is the best). It also lubricates well but in most cases they have to drill. It will run in the summer and your car will never really be 100% clean.
BUT with BMWs they are made with gavanized German steel that is way higher quality than Japanese steel... the corrosion and rust isn't nearly as bad it would be on a lesser car... I wouldn't worry about it.
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04-01-2010, 09:57 AM | #10 |
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It stuck around for the whole ownership for me, hated it.
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09-13-2010, 11:28 AM | #11 |
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Bump!
So I am still unsure if I should do rust proofing. I honestly don't care about the dirt and grime in side the engine bay area. Some Cities/province/state dont use salt so its good. But for Ontario salting is very aggressive. During winter I try to wash my car at least once a month, but that may not be enough. |
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09-13-2010, 12:04 PM | #12 |
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Well if you're unsure, don't do it!
I used to have an RSX that I rust proofed every year. The car had certain spots that would leak (i.e. where water would leak after a car wash), after three years of rust proofs, you could start to see the lines where the liquid would ooze out from. Drove me nuts. It's different for the BMW, they use better materials and you have a 12 year corrosion warranty. Then again, it's only $100 so if it makes you stop stressing, take out the brownie and be done with it |
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09-13-2010, 12:27 PM | #13 | |
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12 yrs corrosion warranty?! I am a bit skeptical on that, did anyone ever tried claiming that? BMW will prolly tell you we offered you the electronic rust protection thing but you declined. I think someone here mentioned that the corrosion warranty is only for certain parts not all. If that was the case then BMW will use that as a selling point and no BMW owner will ever get rust proofing. In Germany they do not use salt so the cars will hardly have rust problems. I am only concern about the boring of holes. |
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09-13-2010, 07:57 PM | #14 |
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your car's body panels will not rust unless if the bare metal is exposed. That can only happen if the 4 layers protecting the metal is penetrated:
1) Clearcoat 2) paint 3) primer 4) galvanization (I think they use nickel? not sure) Underbody is slightly different. Japanese cars (talking about my old old Civic here) tends to rust under the rear wheel wells because of the design of the inner lip, which traps dirt, moisture or salt. There is no clearcoat there and galvanization is not as effective due to spot welding in that area. Hence, if that area is not clean/protected, eventually, the gunk eats through the paint/primer and causes rust. If you check your BMW's inner lip, it's got some thick rubber filler there that prevents that. For BMWs, they tend to rust at two places, at the front lower spot of the rear wheel well, usual due to paint damage from rock chips, and what not. I think the doors rust too, that's usually because the drain holes at the bottom of the door panels get plugged up with dirt and traps water. So the simple solution, clean your car properly and repair damaged paint spots. Problem solved! My last BMW I had for 6 years, not a single spec of rust anywhere. Now if your car has been in an accident, then that's an entirely different story. That can only happen if you have a bad ding
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09-14-2010, 11:58 AM | #15 | |
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It's been a while since the last RSX rolled out the lot. The rust proof technology today is significantly better than a few years ago.
Back in 2003, BMW used to rust proof their cars (stock) for 6 years. In 2007 and all subsequent models, they rust proof all their cars (stock) for 12 years. I think you should worry something else (ball joints, suspensions, wheel axles, ...) rather than rust. Quote:
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09-14-2010, 01:16 PM | #16 | |
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Now... if we're talking about "bullet-proofing" a car......... |
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09-14-2010, 01:18 PM | #17 |
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http://brianjessel.bmw.ca/content/se...tailerID=10102
Limited Rust Perforation Warranty BMW Canada Inc. warrants to the first retail purchaser, and each subsequent purchaser, that this vehicle shall remain free of defects in materials or workmanship which results in rust "perforation"** of the vehicle body. **"Perforation" means the rust or corrosion of any components of the automobile body through from the inner surface to the outer surface. The warranty for perforation due to corrosion is for a period of 12 years / unlimited kilometres. This warranty begins on the date of first registration, or the date the vehicle is first placed in service as a demonstrator or company vehicle, whichever occurs first. Please see your authorized BMW Retailer for additional information on coverage and limitations. Limited Rust Perforation Warranty (model year 2004 and up) 12 years / Unlimited kms |
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09-14-2010, 01:23 PM | #18 |
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I got this from e49Fanatics...
My 2005 has a 12 year rust perforation warranty. Something that has not been mentioned in this thread is the fact that you need documentation showing that an Inspection II was performed at the proper time (i.e. ~60-65k miles) or the warranty is null and void. This is at least the case for the 12 year warranty. |
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09-18-2010, 04:03 PM | #19 |
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Alright, I have decided not to do rust proofing, I will just keep my car cleaned during winter.
So I checked a friend of a friend from Germany and he used to work at the BMW plant. He said there is no need since (as what most ppl said too) the under body has been galvanized and sealed. Its just a waste of money. But of course its still good to clean the under part of the car during winter.
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09-18-2010, 04:38 PM | #20 |
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after 12 years will you care if your bmw is rusted?
Had a Volvo, didn't really seriously see rust on the surface until the 11th or 12th year or so By then, who cares? Run the car into the ground to get your 60 K worth...! |
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09-18-2010, 04:42 PM | #21 |
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The other issue to watch out for is that some of these rustproof lubricants can degrade rubber. They spray rather liberally so CV boots, steering linkages, etc. will get sprayed. Opinions vary and some state that their lubricant is rubber friendly but something to think (worry) about.
Also, for any first timers, watch your driving when you come out of the spray shop. This stuff gets on your brake disks and does wonders for your stopping distance until it burns away. |
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12-15-2014, 07:40 PM | #22 | ||
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Rustproofing is almost mandatory.. In the Snow Belt
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Quote:
NO HOLES. NO POLYMET OR RUBBER STRETCHING COMPOUND. Patrick has travelled to every major European and North American factory, including Munich, and is a luxury segment rustproofing expert. Patrick indeed agrees with everyone arguing that BMW's are built to last and not rust- but that is the frame, treated, and not the subframe and engine/sub chassis and lines. It is the linkages and lines that corrode. Interesting, it is not road water that gets them wet (plastic preventing that) but the road moisture and evaporation, and bits of salt, sipping through and just enveloping the undercarriage. Or, it is this very undercarriage that is not protected (in the factory videos it is the bottom part on which the frame is dropped in the 'merging' sequence. What does it mean? Patrick points out that the line rust, e.g. brake lines, are $1500+ for a line failure and, item by item, pass year 5, the bottom of the chassis would require normal, routine repairs worth thousands of $. Although, indeed, most metal components in BMWs are zinc coated, ZINC COATING IS ALWAYS RATED AT HUNDREDS/THOUSANDS OF HOURS of exposure and NO more. This does not mean that the car is to be driven thousands of hours, but just SIT thousands of hours while moist in this brew. At 24 hrs, that is 166 days or less than two Canadian winters in a moist wet damp environment... What Patrick does is remove the plastic - a lengthy process, then systematically treats the body and bottom of doors with the no-drip formula. His base rate of $150 is so high precisely due to the time requirements for a BMW. He will spend as much as 5 hrs on any such car, Audi, BMW Porsche etc and his $350 rate will not increase just because he found problems. Once done, the plastic aero film is reapplied, and the bottom of the car is fully protected. Most specialized garages working on out of warranty BMWs tell that Farray's work is good for at least 2 years per application- although he says yearly remains a good option. The street moisture, crazy fluoride based salts etc does not deposit itself on the treated surface, and, best of all, the aerodynamic film PREVENTS THE SHEAR REMOVAL OF THE APPLICATION. It is the very aerodynamic film that, according to Patrick, accelerates the rusting on luxury vehicles as once the moisture is in, even on drier days, the very film prevents the undercarriage from being ventilated and dried out… think of an unvented, moist metro entrance, always smelling wet and moist even on cold days… Perhaps this begs the question, why does BMW not do this at factory? Unsure, a question for them. Patrick is almost compulsive about documenting each vehicle, and proving he leaves it in a better state than he found it. Best of all, he proves, without a doubt, that expensive vehicle components, whether Porsche or BMW or Audi, are corroded aggressively by these substances. I, in my ignorance, used to think “Hey, if I get a Porshe and drive it in winter, no rust, as it is aluminium..” How about the carbon fiber i8? Yes, in these two cars the body and frame will not rust, but the undercarriage will rot even worse due to the film. Even on the beautiful i8 which one would normally not even dream of driving in winter as it is RWD, but will still retain water and muck from 3 seasons worth of water. His argument? Over 10 years someone may spend 3000$ on the undercarriage rustproofing, but $3000 + thousands more in repairs (starting years 4-5). Patrick, who saw the assembly treatment lines in Europe, told me that, ideally, the manufacturer would bathe, dip and treat the entire vehicle but they cannot for two reasons; would seal the undercarriage to the point of inability to loosen components for repairs, and, quite frankly, it is way more cheaper and profitable for the manufacturer to ship parts- the very thing they make money on more than anything. Another bit: Patrick stated that every Germany-made car has a far superior finish than the North American/S African one. Yes, the whole 120mu bit and the USA factory clip, that job is inferior to the ‘Germany’ one. Why are the frames so well treated? Practical perfectionism: nothing destroys the body aesthetics of a car like evident rust spots. Solution: make the frame almost bulletproof unless exposed to an accident. Finally, for all those still not believing this, Patrick has an impressive database of Before and After pics, exposing how vehicles from X Z 911, Lambos, Bentles etc just corrode in the seemingly most protected area, and why that acocunts for a lot of the expensive leakages and repairs in the 5+ year mark. M Last edited by Musashi; 12-15-2014 at 07:42 PM.. Reason: pic |
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