[david in germany]

Originally Posted by mountainsoloist

Thanks! I'm still working on the patience part lol.



Much appreciated, I'll have more updates coming!



Thanks!

I really like the stealthbox for its sound quality and the fact that it takes almost zero space in my trunk. Also, it almost looks like it came with the car, which puts it way ahead of any wood box and slightly ahead of some custom installs.

You are correct that they never sound "quite right" though for three reasons:
1. The 750r doesn't have enough power for the stealthbox. The subwoofers' recommended power is 600rms each, so you could get away with adding another 750r to get more out of it.
2. Our trunks are very well sealed off from the cabin, so only a fraction of your bass output from the stealthbox is getting through. The sound deadening from the factory includes a lot more metal than most cars have in this region and it is topped with a high quality thick closed cell foam which acts as a barrier. The net result is similar to having much less power and cone surface on the subwoofer setup in the trunk; it isn't as loud.
3. Even if the first two reasons above didn't apply, the stealthbox is still designed to be a compromise. These TW5s are very shallow. This allows them to take up very little space but they don't move as much air as most similarly powered conventional subwoofers.

I think this steathbox is ideal for a very specific type of listener who wants great sound quality, can afford high quality equipment, doesn't want to lose trunk space, and doesn't need it to get loud. People who like a lot of bass will likely be disappointed by this setup while quiet sound quality guys will love it. By the way, mine is for sale!

I have the fold down seats and normally have the ski vent open.
My 750 benched 900w at 1 ohm but according to JL's website I am in the "Danger zone" for these subs at that level.

[Mr. Toad]

Originally Posted by mountainsoloist

Thanks! Often I feel like I'm the only one. I love wood trim, and I think the burl looks at home in this car.

We may be the only two fans of it left in the world.

I actually presented wood trim as a required feature when I was shopping for my car. The dealer kept trying to show me models with silver or black plastic, or carbon fiber, and I refused every one.

[Mr. Toad]

Wow, you are COMMITTED.

[mountainsoloist]

Originally Posted by david in germany

I have the fold down seats and normally have the ski vent open.
My 750 benched 900w at 1 ohm but according to JL's website I am in the "Danger zone" for these subs at that level.

Do you have any voltage drops?

[mountainsoloist]

The process for making the seat cover for the leanback is very similar to that of the cushion, but it is larger. First, I removed the seat cover from the driver seat leanback. I made my reference marks and separated the pieces at the seams. I then transferred the patterns to chipboard, adding an additional 1/4 inch so that I can sew it at 1/2.

In order to recreate the insert to proper size I needed to add extra material for the tuck/rolls. After calculating the additional material, I cut the template and added a gap to that width. I traced the template onto the leather including the gap and cut it out.

I placed the leather on the foam and cut around it. I then attached the fabric to the foam with a single stitch and trimmed the foam to size. I did the same with all pieces of the pattern.

[Xpander]

wow OP this could go on the 'How It's Made' show!
Impressive work so far!

[dragerboy]

Great thread I will be keeping an eye on this here in the UK.

[david in germany]

Originally Posted by mountainsoloist

Do you have any voltage drops?

No, Rock solid voltage.

[mountainsoloist]

Originally Posted by david in germany

No, Rock solid voltage.

Then it's time to consider whether you want to take the next step up for your subwoofer setup. I believe the next step up is probably a vented box with a port into your cabin through the ski hole. I'm in the same boat, I need a little more bass.

[mountainsoloist]

Using a straightedge, I started the insert by drawing a single reference line to meet the embellishment on the cushion insert. I used a protractor to ensure that my ruler was crossing my reference line at a 90 degree angle and measured out the placement of the other reference lines. I drew the other reference lines and made the face stitches. After that, I folded the fabric over and stitched again for the tuck/roll effect. The last picture is the completed insert for the driver's side leanback.

[david in germany]

Originally Posted by mountainsoloist

Then it's time to consider whether you want to take the next step up for your subwoofer setup. I believe the next step up is probably a vented box with a port into your cabin through the ski hole. I'm in the same boat, I need a little more bass.

My next step will be using the 13tw5s in an IB install. Even less trunk usage than the stealth box and 10x the SQ with half the power requirement.
I just haven't had the time to do it.

[mountainsoloist]

Originally Posted by david in germany

My next step will be using the 13tw5s in an IB install.

I look forward to seeing that!

Bass is a couple items down on my list but I am considering an IB setup on the rear parcel shelf. At that time I will also switch over to a woofer with a full size motor.

[kaputme]

Did you finish it?

How does she look when its all done?

Share some pics please!!

[OnlyDriveGerman]

This dude is not messing around!! I love your vision and plan to make it happen!! Subscribed to see finished product.

[mountainsoloist]

I joined the collar to the boxing for each side. I then made a french seam reinforcement stitch here. I used listing on the back of the french seam on the inside which will provide structural support to the seat cover. On the outside, where the airbag is, I did a french seam without listing. This gives me the same cosmetic look as the other side without making it stronger. Finally I completed the leanback cover and made an initial test fit.

[mountainsoloist]

The drivers seat has seen considerable wear over the life of the car, which is not uncommon. This car has nearly 200,000 miles, all with someone sitting in the driver's seat. Because the car is still relatively new the foam still has a good density and stiffness. It did have several tears though.

The tears in the foam allowed the hog ring mounting bars to pull away from the seat frame freely, so I first secured the vertical mounting bars to the springs on the frame using hog rings. After that I repaired all tears in the foam using contact adhesive.

[mountainsoloist]

With the foam repaired and the seat cover complete I attached all factory clips to the new seat cover. I started placing the hog rings from the top of the leanback and worked my way down to the bottom. I then used the steamer under the collar pieces and stretched them over the seat foam. I locked all factory clips in place in their original locations.

I repeated the process for the seat cushion and locked its clips into place. We wrapped the trim and put the seat back together.

[mjn77]

I assume the leather will tighten once ..........it is dried? Stretched?

[mountainsoloist]

Originally Posted by mjn77

I assume the leather will tighten once ..........it is dried? Stretched?

Yes, it will continue to tighten over time, especially after regular use and time in the sun. However, the remaining wrinkles are simply characteristic of the leather and won't go away. For the most part this seat is already stretched into its final shape.

Leather is among the most beautiful materials in a car interior in my opinion. The feel and smell are unmatched, adding life to an environment otherwise comprised mainly of various plastics and a metal frame. Leather is not without its drawbacks, however. Imperfections are an inherent part of leather. Leather is not the best material for the true perfectionist for this reason. I don't consider the inconsistencies in the material to be flaws unless I have to cut around them in order to use the piece. Scars, stretch marks, and tooling points will all be prominently displayed on finished leather products. Leather also requires significantly more care than vinyl.

The vinyls available today in leather grain patterns are good enough to pass for real leather to most people. They are cheaper, perfectly uniform, require little care, and they can be wiped clean easily.

I urge anyone making the choice between leather and a high quality synthetic to consider these differences before making the purchase. For a long time, leather has been considered the high end choice without considering the use of the vehicle. Vinyl or another synthetic can be very high quality, while real leather can completely change the feel of a cheaper car. Just because you own a $100k car doesn't necessarily mean real leather is the best choice for you.