[ricerider187]

so I moved to Regina SK for work

....


ROADS ARE NASTY,,, SAND N WATERY SHT EVERYWHERE

so if I wash the car, it's clean for a whole 5 minutes.

anyways I hear drive thru car washes are bad.

what about the ones where you pay like 3$ and spray your car down??

I'd imagine the bristle brushes (soft) would still scratch?

so... I am going to hand wash my car?

but what about the underbody?? i imagine there's lots of salt n dirtiness??

what do you guys reckon

[TOGWT]

Your vehicle’s undercarriage; it’s what you don't see that silently awaits underneath your cars. Removing sprayed brine solution to protect your undercarriage is just as important as detailing the paint. Wheel wells, sub-frame, springs, fender well and all of the other black and gray parts underneath the body need detailing too.

Although dry salt is inert 15 – 20.oF (9 – 29.oC) is considered the lower limit for salt to melt snow and ice but once H2O, even in the form of moist air (i.e. humidity) is added the freezing point is lowered and the sprayed brine solution (pH 8.5) used on roads will have an adverse effect (the formation of rust and/or corrosion) on the vehicles paint and undercarriage. Magnesium Chloride (MgCl2) attracts moisture from the air making it more aggressive than salt because it is active even when “dry”. Magnesium Chloride is basically ‘liquid rust’. It clings to everything and it attracts moisture – and it does not wash off easily”.

After removing dirt, road grime, and etc with P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash or Optimum™ Polymer Technologies - Power Clean- use a pressure washer

Never go underneath a car supported by the supplied jack - always use axle stands if you wish to work underneath the car. Always jack the car up at the manufacturer's recommended jacking points. Ensure the jack is in stable contact with both the jacking point (see owner's manual) and the ground.

Always work on level ground.




TOGWT® Autopia Detailing Wiki- “Prepare your Vehicle for Spring / Summer” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...ng-summer.html

If you have any questions about this article or the techniques used, please let me know or feel free to send me a PM

[black 335xi]

Originally Posted by TOGWT

Your vehicle’s undercarriage; it’s what you don't see that silently awaits underneath your cars. Removing sprayed brine solution to protect your undercarriage is just as important as detailing the paint. Wheel wells, sub-frame, springs, fender well and all of the other black and gray parts underneath the body need detailing too.

Although dry salt is inert 15 – 20.oF (9 – 29.oC) is considered the lower limit for salt to melt snow and ice but once H2O, even in the form of moist air (i.e. humidity) is added the freezing point is lowered and the sprayed brine solution (pH 8.5) used on roads will have an adverse effect (the formation of rust and/or corrosion) on the vehicles paint and undercarriage. Magnesium Chloride (MgCl2) attracts moisture from the air making it more aggressive than salt because it is active even when “dry”. Magnesium Chloride is basically ‘liquid rust’. It clings to everything and it attracts moisture – and it does not wash off easily”.

After removing dirt, road grime, and etc with P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash or Optimum™ Polymer Technologies - Power Clean- use a pressure washer

Never go underneath a car supported by the supplied jack - always use axle stands if you wish to work underneath the car. Always jack the car up at the manufacturer's recommended jacking points. Ensure the jack is in stable contact with both the jacking point (see owner's manual) and the ground.

Always work on level ground.




TOGWT® Autopia Detailing Wiki- “Prepare your Vehicle for Spring / Summer” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...ng-summer.html

If you have any questions about this article or the techniques used, please let me know or feel free to send me a PM

What he said. Also, Eastwood Road Salt Neutralizer- 6 0z to 1 gallon of water in a garden sprayer- spray everything under the vehicle- all suspension components, brake calipers, etc. Let it sit for 5 minutes and power wash it off. Works like a charm. Gallon lasted me two winters.

Also, lttile known fact about the power washers at the car washes is that they recirculate the used water. Good for ecological purposes, bad for cars because a lot of the recircled water contains dissolved road salt.

[Bighorns]

I'm so happy that I don't have to deal with this.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

The manual car washes are fine but don't use their brushes. Just use their power washer and soap. Bring your own sponge for cleaning. Bring your own towels for drying.

I use these in the winter by me cause they are heated.

As far as recycled water, there are pros and cons. Sometimes the water that comes out is cleaner then the water they originally started with. I can't speak for every car wash though.

[TOGWT]

[As far as recycled water, there are pros and cons. Sometimes the water that comes out is cleaner then the water they originally started with. I can't speak for every car wash though]

Problem with recycled water is that there is no way to remove the salt content-brine wash anyone

[Bavarian Black]

Modern car washes are fine and don't damage the car in any way. FYI- I never allow them to program the auto wash to include high presure washing from under the car...it causes so many problems and I got an oil leak after he mistakenly forgot to remove the ' no under wash button'. I suggest raising the car safely as mentioned above and spraying of any dirt, salt, grit or even oil which we commonly see under 335i. Regarding H2O recyling, have to ask my local car wash about that. Thankfully our roads in Lebanon do not have salt or grit....but the tarmack is crap and shines like a mirror...great for drifting, bad for breaking

Male sure you have all the protection plastic guards under your car. Mine has 1 main front and 2 for the rear left and right skirts.

Best if luck.
BB