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N55 rod knock/spun bearing tracking
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07-18-2018, 02:20 PM | #45 | |
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I don't think there is any root cause, just because you have a few guys who have spun bearings on modified cars doesn't mean there is an issue with the engine, there are a shit ton of variables. There were thousands upon thousands of N55's produced so these failures are a non issue as you have no data to indicate that any of them are related to one failure mode.
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07-18-2018, 02:23 PM | #46 | |
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But please someone do it id love to see the results. |
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07-18-2018, 02:31 PM | #47 | |
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07-18-2018, 02:47 PM | #48 |
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Why don't you used weight 40? I just changed my oil to 0w40 castrol edge. It said it was LL01 approved so I figured it would be fine. How does the weight potentially effect bearing wear? I'm a bit of a car noob.
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07-18-2018, 03:10 PM | #49 |
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LL01 means nothing unless you are following factory oil change intervals. 0W-40 is fine, I have been using M1 0W-40 since day one and have have it tested a couple of times a year and at 95k my test result still look fine.
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07-18-2018, 03:25 PM | #50 | |
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Replacing rod bearings itself is not a mechanically difficult task, but like painting, it requires a lot of prep work and measuring. That's where most mistakes happen. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...rings/Cz2CUvNY |
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07-18-2018, 03:42 PM | #51 |
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bbinks took it exactly where I was going with this discussion. I agree that oil starvation over time may, for Pladi... MAY, be resulting in premature bearing wear. Lets be real, most likely it is. And isn't that what typically causes this condition? Several reasons were given. Among them thicker original "recomended" oil, which was hinted at may not flow as well in engines with uber tight clearances. Glad I am running 5 - 30.
Another reason is fuel in the oil, thus on a momentary basis keeping oil from lubricating the moving components ala leaky N54 fuel injectors. I initially ran a Dinan stage 3 tune, which I was told was too rich. In this condition how much fuel actually ends up in the oil versus out the exhaust? And if any ends up in the oil, how much is too much? On the excel sheet I noticed different power levels. The 500 + hp guys no doubt worked their way up. Early on could they have had a rich condition that led to slight wear that over time progressively got worse until... bang. The guys at the lower power levels just may have been in a rich condition longer period of time before they could tweak the AFR properly. Not saying this is it, but as it isn't just engines built way up, is this Pladiable? I brought up cold ambient temperatures since we all know when it is real cold the viscosity thickens. I have lived in the south for 40 years now, but when up north I recall oil heaters. If very cold starts can not possibly cause engine damage, why did the device exist in the first place? My bringing up proactively changing them out is not for the hell of it. It is because they don't go from perfect working condition to the point where they spin overnight. Agreed that a result of an oil test would indicate if such a measure may be necessary. Sorry, but if there is copper in my oil I won't be waiting around until someone finds out the root cause of why it got there before taking action. This seem to be occurring on 2011s so far. I'd consider 9 of the same year engines only, as a trend. Provided the clearances are the same with later N55s I'd have to believe that this may be as simple as an issue with the material used in the sintering process. Something that BMW absolutely would never ever admit to. Changing out said bearings that in an oil test indicates appear to be failing with newer ones may minimize the risk / exposure. I have no idea how to reference this, but are the part numbers for rod bearings for a 2011 and a 2012 the same? If different, why? |
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07-18-2018, 03:49 PM | #52 | |
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07-19-2018, 07:28 AM | #53 |
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Guys BBNKS2 brings up excellent points. I personally started researching about the two approved weights 30 and 40 about a year ago. And pretty much came to the conclusion that the 30 weight is better for tight tolerance engines for obvious reasons. A good 30 weight oil with the good additive package will surpass 40 weight in shear protection. Not to mention it flows better and provides good cooling. Now do i think someone who is using 40 weight will have issues ? No i cannot say that. All i believe is that 30 weight is better suited for this engine. It just makes sense. No scientific experiments to back up...
I was sold with BMW 5W-30 weight after watching this test. The same guy tests many 40 weight oils including 5W-40 form liqui moly. The BMW test surpasses most tests he has done over 100.. That is a simple test but very meaningful test. |
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07-19-2018, 07:38 AM | #54 | |
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07-19-2018, 08:13 AM | #55 | |
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https://www.m3post.com/forums/attach...4&d=1381119577 I could be wrong, but I personally believe you're better off with a ll-01 30wt than a ll-01 40wt. Both will have a high hths rating of 3.5cP but the 30wt will flow better. Bearing clearances are what they are... .00135" is a very tight tolerance and BMW seems to be using it on all their motors. Why do they use 0-20 in new motors and 10-60 in older motors when they both have the same tolerances? I'm asking... If you Google you will find that 20-30wt is what is recommended for these specs. Maybe BMW knows a bit more about oiling their motors than I do though lol I would definitely like to hear the logic! |
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07-19-2018, 09:36 AM | #56 |
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Science.
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07-19-2018, 11:29 AM | #57 | |
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My Z4M coupe had 10W-60 oil changes every 12k miles up to 80k miles before I took ownership of it, then I shortened the interval to 8k between changes. At 105k I adjusted the valves and had to pop the motor open. It looked brand spanking new inside.
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07-26-2018, 12:55 AM | #59 |
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07-26-2018, 11:55 AM | #60 |
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Those of you who have had failures, can you give exactly what oil you were using? What is everyone's thoughts on the Castrol Edge 0w-40 European formula? Wondering if 40 is too thick for the clearances.
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07-26-2018, 12:21 PM | #61 |
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I'm currently running it with no issues. I will switch to 30 wt next oil change though. Was going to send an analysis to blackstone when my kit arrives.
Last edited by lwgrenier; 07-26-2018 at 12:38 PM.. |
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07-26-2018, 12:30 PM | #62 |
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We will wonder till the end of time. So no one here has an answer for that but some knowledge from some of us that have assembled short blocks raises questions. I re built a mazdapseed 3 engine bottom up. The bearing clearances for that motor were 0.0025 and we used 40 weight. Factory 30 weight recommended. BMW has tighter clearance and now new BMW engines recommend 0w-20. Everything points to not using 0w-40. Also there is nothing 0w-40 can do that 0w-30 or 5w-30 wont be able to do.. There is no reason in my opinion to use 40 weight oil..Its not "BETTER" this is maybe true with older cars and oil.. where modifiers were not as advanced. Todays 5w-30 specs for VI and HTS and other specs are just as good as 40 weight..
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07-26-2018, 02:21 PM | #63 | |
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FCP Euro has Liqui-Moly 5w30 with Mann filter for $62, so I may be going that route. |
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07-26-2018, 02:53 PM | #64 | |
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07-26-2018, 07:50 PM | #65 | |
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07-26-2018, 10:55 PM | #66 |
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I'm in no way an expert in this topic but I was researching oils quite a bit before making a decision on what to use. And from what I was reading, the Castrol European formula 0w30 is on the heavy side of a 30 weight, and the 0w40 is on the light side of a 40 weight. They have a minimal viscosity difference at operating temperature. I used the 0w40 Castrol on my last oil change.
I had always run BMW 5w30 up until that point. Maybe I'll just switch back on the next change. Been doing less long drives and more short trips and the thinner oil might be better for me I think. |
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