[greenberet123]

Thanks! I spoke to them at they told me that it will be covered under collision. I will look up the rules for WA

Originally Posted by kart23

Did you talk to your insurance yet? I think it should be covered under comprehensive, since it's a road hazard, not a collision where fault is involved. I don't see how they can assign fault to you in this situation unless they somehow prove you were negligent in driving the car. Look at the thread below, I think the main thing is to prove that there was no warning light on the dash, you didn't know about the hole in the oil pan or that it would cause further damage.

The insurance will try to fight you on this, because the bill is gonna be huge. Depending on which state you're in, a lot of different regulations apply. Look up comprehensive insurance laws in your state, there will also be terms and conditions in your full policy contract. They will likely want to talk to your mechanic and you need to get pictures of everything. Good luck OP

http://www.city-data.com/forum/car-i...d-engines.html

[greenberet123]

Tunafish nsjames BravoJohny33 and others

Is it worth going with the more expensive engine (7k) with a 2 year warranty or the less expensive engine (5.5k) with a 6 month warranty?
The auto shop has a separate 3 year warranty on the gaskets and seals.

Thanks!

[Tunafish]

I personally would go with the 6 months, you should find any issues that are going to pop up by then. But then again if i wasnt worried about the money i would do the two year.

[BravoJohny33]

Originally Posted by greenberet123

Tunafish nsjames BravoJohny33 and others

Is it worth going with the more expensive engine (7k) with a 2 year warranty or the less expensive engine (5.5k) with a 6 month warranty?
The auto shop has a separate 3 year warranty on the gaskets and seals.

Thanks!

6 months. Maybe if you are worried at the end of 5 months get the engine looked at by another shop before the warranty expires.

[triax37]

Originally Posted by BravoJohny33

6 months. Maybe if you are worried at the end of 5 months get the engine looked at by another shop before the warranty expires.

I'm guessing one of the only reasons to go with the higher priced engine, and longer warranty, is if you plan to sell the car in that window (and the warranty would carry over to the new buyer). This way, the new buyer is comforted by having some type of warranty on the replacement engine (probably a big selling point).

If you're keeping the car for the next 3-5+ years, the higher cost engine does not makes any sense to me. Maybe if it was turbo-charged. But a refreshed N52 is going to be solid for 5+ years...

[nsjames]

2 year warranty engine also includes the new timing set.

I'd get the details of these warranties.
If the 6 month one say, doesn't cover R&R labor after a failur and the two year one does, that may be somehting to consider.

if it were mine I'd be putting a $1K junkyard motor in it myself, so I'm not really the best suited to ask.

[BravoJohny33]

Originally Posted by nsjames

2 year warranty engine also includes the new timing set.

I'd get the details of these warranties.
If the 6 month one say, doesn't cover R&R labor after a failur and the two year one does, that may be somehting to consider.

if it were mine I'd be putting a $1K junkyard motor in it myself, so I'm not really the best suited to ask.

Same. What gaskets would you replace? Would you replace all the gaskets like this shop or just the hard to get to ones such as the oil pan.

[Buug959]

Originally Posted by BravoJohny33

Same. What gaskets would you replace? Would you replace all the gaskets like this shop or just the hard to get to ones such as the oil pan.

While it's out and easy to get to all the gaskets it makes sense to change them. That way you're not bent over a fender or on your back under the car.

[kart23]

Originally Posted by greenberet123

Thanks! I spoke to them at they told me that it will be covered under collision. I will look up the rules for WA

That's good news, hopefully your deductible is low enough that you won't have to pay that much. IMO its very much worth it if they agree to put in a new motor. I still think it's weird of them to assign fault to you in this situation though, and your premiums are probably going to go up as a result of this. I just don't think this should be collision because collision is usually for stationary objects or other vehicles. Rocks should be classified as road hazards, but if they're willing to replace the motor that's good!

[greenberet123]

Oh gosh, this thing never ends.

Just heard back from insurance and they are telling me that they will have to classify the car as a total loss (based on what the repair shop told them). They are giving me two options:

1. Owner kept salvage - I keep the car. They will pay me its value - deductible. Apparently I have to get a new "rebranded car" title from the DMV.

2. Insurance owned salvage - They will take the car and pay me a little more than what they pay me above.

This is a nightmare. Not sure what to do here. I want to keep the car and a new engine will help me run it for many many more years. I don't want to buy essentially the same car with a lot more money, that will have oil leaks in the future.

Is there any disadvantage of going with owner-kept salvage and having a salvage title?

Thanks!

[BravoJohny33]

Originally Posted by greenberet123

Oh gosh, this thing never ends.

Just heard back from insurance and they are telling me that they will have to classify the car as a total loss (based on what the repair shop told them). They are giving me two options:

1. Owner kept salvage - I keep the car. They will pay me its value - deductible. Apparently I have to get a new "rebranded car" title from the DMV.

2. Insurance owned salvage - They will take the car and pay me a little more than what they pay me above.

This is a nightmare. Not sure what to do here. I want to keep the car and a new engine will help me run it for many many more years. I don't want to buy essentially the same car with a lot more money, that will have oil leaks in the future.

Is there any disadvantage of going with owner-kept salvage and having a salvage title?

Thanks!

Of course they are going to total the car out because they aren't going to pay a shop 7k to repair a car worth 7k.

If you keep the car and get a salvage title the car will lose 50 percent of its value. Which wont make a difference if you never sell the car or drive it into the ground.

Id personally take the check and let them trash the car because there is always a new and different year, model, make to try. Plus you wont have a car with a salvage title.

Either way I would 100% take the money. You pay all this money to your insurance company and now its time for you to make use of what you pay them for. If you only have a one claim evey 5-7 years in theory your rates should not go up from this. I still regret to this day I did make a claim worth 2k on one of my cars because I didn't want to make my rates go up.

[Buug959]

Originally Posted by greenberet123

Oh gosh, this thing never ends.

Just heard back from insurance and they are telling me that they will have to classify the car as a total loss (based on what the repair shop told them). They are giving me two options:

1. Owner kept salvage - I keep the car. They will pay me its value - deductible. Apparently I have to get a new "rebranded car" title from the DMV.

2. Insurance owned salvage - They will take the car and pay me a little more than what they pay me above.

This is a nightmare. Not sure what to do here. I want to keep the car and a new engine will help me run it for many many more years. I don't want to buy essentially the same car with a lot more money, that will have oil leaks in the future.

Is there any disadvantage of going with owner-kept salvage and having a salvage title?

Thanks!

The salvage title won't mean anything if you plan to keep the car yourself. The problem with a salvage title is when you go to sell it. It won't be worth near as much as a car in the exact same condition with a regular title. I'd keep the car and use the money toward the less expensive ( 6 month warranty ) engine repair.

[Tunafish]

Your car books at 8k to 12k (blue book) so you might actually come out ahead. See what they have to offer, a rebuilt title is not a 50% off sticker. You will loss about 20% value with rebuilt so you have to take that into consideration.

They insurance company will put a value on the car pre accident. How they come up with that value i dont know.

[BravoJohny33]

Originally Posted by Tunafish

Your car books at 8k to 12k (blue book) so you might actually come out ahead. See what they have to offer, a rebuilt title is not a 50% off sticker. You will loss about 20% value with rebuilt so you have to take that into consideration.

They insurance company will put a value on the car pre accident. How they come up with that value i dont know.

If they gave 12k id take that in a heart beat. That would be silly to pass on.

[NGEE]

EDIT - I've cleaned up this post for clarification and to add in answers so far...

Originally Posted by greenberet123

Oh gosh, this thing never ends...This is a nightmare.

Of course it is, once insurance is involved

Depending on your insurance company... after they factor in your history with them, your driving record, your sex (and also your gender), your age and credit score, some mysterious algorithms, your social media habits and a dash of alchemy, your rate adjustment will likely offset whatever they pay out.

If it were me, I'd take the insurance money (since you've already poked the bear) and move onward and upward.

But if you're dead set on keeping the car, at the very minimum, I'd get another quote. There are things about your replacement engine quote that I don't understand, probably because I have no experience replacing engines. Hopefully someone smarter than me can chime in and clarify:

- What do they mean by "DOES NOT INCLUDE TRANSFER"?

- How many miles are on the replacement engine?

- What is their source, and have they inspected it and run any tests on it (e.g. compression)?
Answer: the source is LKQ, apparently the largest car dismantler on the planet. The warranty is provided by LKQ. The shop is simply removing the old engine and dropping in the new one.

- Why does a timing chain kit and oil pan warrant an additional $1k in parts and 18 months of warranty? Was the timing chain on the replacement engine bad, and why are they replacing the oil pan on the replacement engine in the first place, and why is there no difference in labor to do all these things?
Edit: Are these LKQ pass-thru charges? If so, it still begs the question "why?", and if not, why are they being replaced?.

- Why is the crankshaft seal on there three times?

- They're replacing the intake manifold gaskets (probably not necessary) but not the OFHG or the oil pan gasket?
Edit: Is this just another LKQ pass-thru charge? If so, it also begs the question "why was this replaced"? And if not, "Why are they being replaced?". And now would be the time to have the shop replace other things like the oil pan gasket, engine mounts, etc, and the price goes up...


- What do they mean by "adjust (where applicable): fuel mixture, idle speed and ignition timing"?

Finally, if you're replacing the engine I'd think it's technically a salvage whether you go through the insurance company or not. If you pull the trigger, I'd say you're "all-in" on this car for life. Edit: rules for salvage vary from state to state. Generally, when repairs exceed a certain percentage of the car's value, it could be considered a salvage. If you're not going through an insurance company, the MVA will never know, and it's up to you how to communicate it when you sell.

Here's a portal of salvage info by state, though some of the links are outdated - check your state: http://www.argocycles.com/salvage-laws

- Your odo will be jacked up. Not sure how that works with the MVA/DMV tho.

This is not true. Odo follows the chassis, not the engine.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by NGEE

Of course it is, once insurance is involved

Depending on your insurance company... after they factor in your history with them, your driving record, your sex (and also your gender), your age and credit score, some mysterious algorithms, your social media habits and a dash of alchemy, your rate adjustment will likely offset whatever they pay out.

If it were me, I'd take the insurance money (since you've already poked the bear) and move onward and upward.

But if you're dead set on keeping the car, there are things about your replacement engine quote that I don't understand, probably because I have no experience replacing engines. Hopefully someone smarter than me can chime in and identify these as stupid questions to ignore.

First, what do they mean by "DOES NOT INCLUDE TRANSFER"? Second, how many miles are on the replacement engine, what is their source, and have they inspected it and run any tests on it (e.g. compression)? Pretty important. Third, I would ask why a timing chain kit and oil pan warrant an additional $1k in parts and 18 months of warranty - is the timing chain on the replacement engine bad, and why the hell are they replacing the oil pan on the replacement engine in the first place, and why is there no difference in labor to do all these things? Fourth, why is the crankshaft seal on there three times? Fifth, they're replacing the intake manifold gasket (probably not necessary) but not the OFHG or the oil pan gasket? Sixth, what do they mean by "adjust (where applicable): fuel mixture, idle speed and ignition timing"? Are they installing an engine with a carburetor and distributor? Seventh, at the very minimum, I'd get another quote.

Finally, if you're replacing the engine I'd think it's technically a salvage whether you go through the insurance company or not. Your odo will be jacked up. Not sure how that works with the MVA/DMV tho. If you pull the trigger, I'd say you're "all-in" on this car for life.

the warranty is from lkq.

the largest car dismantler on the planet. It says the engines origin right there in the quote.

and why would a replacement engine affect the odometer on the chassis, or require a new DME? You literally pull one, swap all your shit to the new one and then install it.

You do all the gaskets that will cost you a thousand dollars to get at after it's in the car.

[BravoJohny33]

Originally Posted by nsjames

the warranty is from lkq.

the largest car dismantler on the planet. It says the engines origin right there in the quote.

and why would a replacement engine affect the odometer on the chassis, or require a new DME? You literally pull one, swap all your shit to the new one and then install it.

You do all the gaskets that will cost you a thousand dollars to get at after it's in the car.

I think the engine and warranty is overpriced. Whats the difference from one of these used engines for 1300 with a year warranty and LKQ for 2500 with 6 month warranty. Maybe there are hidden shipping charges or something I don't see.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by BravoJohny33

I think the engine and warranty is overpriced. Whats the difference from one of these used engines for 1300 with a year warranty and LKQ for 2500 with 6 month warranty. Maybe there are hidden shipping charges or something I don't see.

and?

source another motor then, but LKQ often has relationships with shops, and that's how the warranty thing happens.


like I said, if it were mine I'd already be on my way to a yard to get my $1,000 N52 to put in the car.

[Vivek.]

Originally Posted by NGEE

Finally, if you're replacing the engine I'd think it's technically a salvage whether you go through the insurance company or not. Your odo will be jacked up. Not sure how that works with the MVA/DMV tho. If you pull the trigger, I'd say you're "all-in" on this car for life.

This is definitely not true (in bold)

The ODO reading displays miles on the cars chassis. Changing the engine has no implications on it and no involvement from the DMV.

[E92William]

This is an outrageous price to swap an engine out of that thing holy shit. You can get a good running 65k mile N52 down here from a parted out car for 1000 or less and any mechanic with two braincells can do the job in less than a day. This thing is not complicated at all of a car to drop the subframe on. No way it'd go over 2k labor unless with bmw shop markup.

[BravoJohny33]

Originally Posted by E92William

This is an outrageous price to swap an engine out of that thing holy shit. You can get a good running 65k mile N52 down here from a parted out car for 1000 or less and any mechanic with two braincells can do the job in less than a day. This thing is not complicated at all of a car to drop the subframe on. No way it'd go over 2k labor unless with bmw shop markup.

I agree but I don't know of any mechanics that bill according to how long something really takes. They all bill book rate which is pretty much garbage. Its the only way you end up with 1200 dollar brake/rotor jobs and 1000 dollar valve cover gaskets.

[E92William]

Yep you have to find someone like a backyard guy or someone without a specific bmw dedicated shop to do it. I know they're out there because I know quite a few in my area even guys that only do bmws but charge like normal cars. I was quoted 650 to replace balljoints in my xdrive e92 because that stupid AllData system said you needed a press and to take off the entire hub which you don't at all.

Buddy of mine paid 800 to have a transmission replaced on his Sonata with the transmision included in the price by one of these guys lol. Just charge for how long it takes.