[vasillalov]

My plan is to get the Dinan static camber plates. I like the fact that they are static, meaning there is less chance that the alignment will go out of whack if the alignment shop forgot to tighten a nut properly or I hit a pothole on accident.

The static camber plates are simpler and they are also cheaper.

[D's Bimmer]

Originally Posted by vasillalov

My plan is to get the Dinan static camber plates. I like the fact that they are static, meaning there is less chance that the alignment will go out of whack if the alignment shop forgot to tighten a nut properly or I hit a pothole on accident.

The static camber plates are simpler and they are also cheaper.

I am leaning towards the Dinan plates well.

[lafuerza]

I have a 335i E90 Sedan with TCKline D/A suspension, Swift 400 springs up front, Swift 700 springs in the rear, Vorshlang Camber Plates, M3 strut bar, M3 Bits up front, M3 Sub Frame Bushings, some M3 bits in the rear, HP Autowerks adjustable spring perches, stock sway bars, stock staggered rims with RE-11s (non-run flat). I did all the suspension work at once - pricey ouch but worth it. I recommend putting fresh shock mounts in if you have 50k or more on your car.

All I can say is holy cow. I was initially disappointed in the handling of the 335i when compared to my 330i ZHP but now the car drives like it should have from the factory. Much more precise and very responsive. Sticks like glue on the canyon runs. Tail is a little happy under aggressive driving but very controllable (could use an LSD). Note I turn off all nannies when doing canyon runs. Acceleration and response is much better too with very limited squatting if any, no diving or rolling, and increased hard braking performance. I have swift 800 weight rear springs too but decided that maybe be too much for my use. Also closed course very high speed runs are rock solid with confident control.

Downside is it is a bit harsh on the busted San Francisco city streets but no crashing like I had with the stock sport suspension and very tight control (no bouncy rear). I may need to adjust the suspension somewhat so could be settings too. Roughly set in the middle for both now and will drop lower the rebound and compression and see. Of note the RE-11s have a stiff sidewall so those on Michelin Super Sports or similar might have a smoother ride. There is also a good bit more road noise likely from the bushings and camber plates. Luckily the 335i is very well insulated so it is not intrusive but definitely not nearly as quiet as it was before. On a good note there are NO weird suspension noises, creaks, or rattles coming from this set-up. The ride is smooth on the freeway and back-roads.

I was on the fence with these or the Ohlins R&T but found a good deal on these so decided to go for it. No regrets and highly recommended although I did drool over the Ohlins when I saw them in person ... gorgeous workmanship. Both TC Kline and Harrold at HP Autowerks were awesome in answering questions on the different set-ups. Thanks guys. Also big thanks to Andre at Andre's Foreign Car Service in San Francisco that did the install.

As another point of reference, my buddy has the same set-up on his 135i and likes it a lot. Grip is ridiculous on the track in his to the point that I can't believe the car held such a crappy line when riding shot gun.

Hope this helps someone.

[Taskmaster]

Nothning from AST will ever go on my car. Shit quality control and stupid expensive. I'd use Koni based kits before I ever look at them.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by vasillalov

My plan is to get the Dinan static camber plates. I like the fact that they are static, meaning there is less chance that the alignment will go out of whack if the alignment shop forgot to tighten a nut properly or I hit a pothole on accident.

The static camber plates are simpler and they are also cheaper.

Remember the Dinan plates will add to the ride height of your vehicle so take that into consideration.

In addition, if you are looking for just a bit more camber, lowering the vehicle with a set of coilers will get you -1 and you can get a bit more with a set of M3 wishbones. That put you at -1.5, which is plenty for street use.

Let me know if you have any questions.

[vasillalov]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Remember the Dinan plates will add to the ride height of your vehicle so take that into consideration.

In addition, if you are looking for just a bit more camber, lowering the vehicle with a set of coilers will get you -1 and you can get a bit more with a set of M3 wishbones. That put you at -1.5, which is plenty for street use.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks! I already have the M3 control arms, tension rods and associated bushings, including subframe bushings. I knew about the added ride height from the Dinan plates.

I want simplicity and performance. If I lower the car too much it will be extremely unpractical and somewhat detrimental, especially here in Chicago

[vasillalov]

Can anyone share the part numbers for the rear shock mounts?

[Wes335XI]

Ordered mine through Harold at HP Autowerks. He really helped me out as the 335XI AST's were back ordered. We scrapped that order and went for the TC Kline kit for the XI instead. I also have the M3 front strut and M3 rear subframe bushings. Fair price and pleasure to work with. That was almost a year ago and will finally have the kit installed this Spring.

Definitely recommend Harold for all of your suspension needs.

[Raptor04]

Also, according to Harold, AST no longer makes the Xi the struts.

[iturbo_bmw]

what spring rates are u guys using on ur tck sa coilovers?

[vasillalov]

350 front with 600 rear or 400 front with 700 rear.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

I would argue it comes down to personal preference. If you told that to TC himself he would chuckle because he runs 350/600 on his M3 and pretty much owns everything on the track.
-Mike

Exactly.

The entire product centers around the custom made strut. It's something people don't realize until they have had a set. At this point, I don't want to own a car that can't have TCKs.

[iturbo_bmw]

Originally Posted by vasillalov

350 front with 600 rear or 400 front with 700 rear.

thanks i went with 350/600 and i have stock everything suspension wise. but i'll be installing m3 control arms up front so i think it should be good

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by iturbo_bmw

thanks i went with 350/600 and i have stock everything suspension wise. but i'll be installing m3 control arms up front so i think it should be good

Get the M3 subframe bushings, or your setup will be downright weird feeling with the coils/tires.

[iturbo_bmw]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

Get the M3 subframe bushings, or your setup will be downright weird feeling with the coils/tires.

really even with 350/600? shiett i though that'd be ok

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by iturbo_bmw

really even with 350/600? shiett i though that'd be ok

Only will exacerbate it, not improve it.

Subframe bushings are a core component of how the unibody frame of the car mounts to the suspension. Increased grip and limits for the suspension will only put more strain on them.

[iturbo_bmw]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

Only will exacerbate it, not improve it.

Subframe bushings are a core component of how the unibody frame of the car mounts to the suspension. Increased grip and limits for the suspension will only put more strain on them.

Would it be ok to install subframe bushing even if i don't plan on getting an lsd and upgrading any other suspension components? i think i rmr reading somewhere that they bushing should only be done with an lsd otherwise it would hurt traction

[ashmostro]

No it will be all good

You might be thinking of rear sway bar...

[vasillalov]

I went with 400/700 option but I have M3 suframe bushings, OS Giken TCD LSD and delrin diff mounts. Along with the coils I am installing M3 rear guide rods and M3 upper links.

[iturbo_bmw]

ah ok. i think i'll end up buying the bushings too. must stop after that though..lol

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by iturbo_bmw

Would it be ok to install subframe bushing even if i don't plan on getting an lsd and upgrading any other suspension components? i think i rmr reading somewhere that they bushing should only be done with an lsd otherwise it would hurt traction

Subframe bushings are nothing but better.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by vasillalov

I went with 400/700 option but I have M3 suframe bushings, OS Giken TCD LSD and delrin diff mounts. Along with the coils I am installing M3 rear guide rods and M3 upper links.

How is everything holding up?