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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > what can i do to make it handle better?



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      01-07-2017, 08:18 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JETmn View Post
Do you need to do anything besides the 4 sub frame bushings? Any improvement from doing diff bushings or anything else while I am in there? My car is DD so I want to keep it very streetable. I am looking at whiteline bushings. I have had them on other cars in the past and they were very good.
Going too high durometer in the mechanical bits (diff,engine, trans) tends to produce a lot of NVH and increasingly marginal performance improvements for a street driven car.
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      01-11-2017, 11:43 AM   #90
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It depends on how crazy you want to go. If youre on a tight budget you could just get some M3 Bushings and Control Arms and that should help out quite a bit. If you're looking for the real racecar feel, you could

1-Coilovers (Ohlins,MCS,AST,KW,etc...)
2-M3 Suspension Bits (Front and Rear Control Arms, Sway Bars, Drag Links,etc)
3-LSD (Wavetrac, Quaiffe)
4-Wider Wheels (BBS,Apex,etc)
5-Stickier Tires( Michelin PSS, Cup 2, AD08,etc..)

People always seem to forget to mention tires when it comes to handling upgrades. Nothing will change the way your car handles more drastically than a good set of sticky tires
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      01-13-2017, 07:34 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LYEGUY View Post
It depends on how crazy you want to go. If youre on a tight budget you could just get some M3 Bushings and Control Arms and that should help out quite a bit. If you're looking for the real racecar feel, you could

1-Coilovers (Ohlins,MCS,AST,KW,etc...)
2-M3 Suspension Bits (Front and Rear Control Arms, Sway Bars, Drag Links,etc)
3-LSD (Wavetrac, Quaiffe)
4-Wider Wheels (BBS,Apex,etc)
5-Stickier Tires( Michelin PSS, Cup 2, AD08,etc..)

People always seem to forget to mention tires when it comes to handling upgrades. Nothing will change the way your car handles more drastically than a good set of sticky tires

I second that about tires.
get yourself a tread wear rating 140 and lower and it will stick like glue.
even 200 makes a huge difference. you will slip lot less.
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      01-13-2017, 09:50 PM   #92
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Tires, non run flat, sticky, are the best and first mod you should make with these cars.
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      01-15-2017, 08:05 PM   #93
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So, I replaced:
Upper and lower control arm with m3 control arms,
sway bar link with mayle HD
new tie rods
sway bar bushings

And the car rides like abs shit. Front end literally jumps left and right.

Due to not having right tools, stupid bolts and nuts being frozen, cold weather, cutting control arms off, etc. stupid job took forever.
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      01-15-2017, 10:42 PM   #94
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Given that entire list, the only thing parts that actually make a difference are the control arms.

Did you get the car aligned at least or are you riding dirty?
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      01-15-2017, 10:44 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCobra94 View Post
Given that entire list, the only thing parts that actually make a difference are the control arms.

Did you get the car aligned at least or are you riding dirty?
Was thinking the same thing. How do you change tie rod ends without an alignment even if counting the number of turns to remove? Would be twitchy alright.
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      01-15-2017, 11:01 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W37V View Post
So, I replaced:
Upper and lower control arm with m3 control arms,
sway bar link with mayle HD
new tie rods
sway bar bushings

And the car rides like abs shit. Front end literally jumps left and right.

Due to not having right tools, stupid bolts and nuts being frozen, cold weather, cutting control arms off, etc. stupid job took forever.
M3 front arm kit will definitely require an alignment. You will have way too much toe in otherwise.
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      01-15-2017, 11:19 PM   #97
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Yeah, you cant just bolt on the stuff and expect it to handle. Dial it in to oem m3 specs.
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      01-15-2017, 11:57 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCobra94 View Post
Given that entire list, the only thing parts that actually make a difference are the control arms.

Did you get the car aligned at least or are you riding dirty?
Is there any other way than dirty?
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      01-15-2017, 11:58 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpete View Post
Was thinking the same thing. How do you change tie rod ends without an alignment even if counting the number of turns to remove? Would be twitchy alright.
Alignment is scheduled for Thursday for after new tires arrive. I just couldn't resist driving it like that. It was hilarious.
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      01-16-2017, 12:00 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
M3 front arm kit will definitely require an alignment. You will have way too much toe in otherwise.
You are absolutely correct. Car was bucking left and right as each tire got grip. If i let go of the steering wheel while driving, wheel would do full lock by itself.
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      01-16-2017, 12:01 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by Fundguy1 View Post
Yeah, you cant just bolt on the stuff and expect it to handle. Dial it in to oem m3 specs.
Yaps. Hopefully bushings will survive being driven like that for about 30 miles.
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      01-16-2017, 12:09 AM   #102
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Originally Posted by W37V View Post
Alignment is scheduled for Thursday for after new tires arrive. I just couldn't resist driving it like that. It was hilarious.
LOL, I'll bet! woohoo!
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      01-19-2017, 09:25 PM   #103
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Driving the car for 20 miles was quite an experience. However, alignment was done. New tires are on as well (Michelin A/S3+)

Quote:
Originally Posted by justpete View Post
LOL, I'll bet! woohoo!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fundguy1 View Post
Yeah, you cant just bolt on the stuff and expect it to handle. Dial it in to oem m3 specs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
M3 front arm kit will definitely require an alignment. You will have way too much toe in otherwise.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FCobra94 View Post
Given that entire list, the only thing parts that actually make a difference are the control arms.

Did you get the car aligned at least or are you riding dirty?
So far, the car seems more stable and it's smoother. Nothing drastic thou. Since suspension seemed blown, it may have been worth the upgrade, but i haven't spent much time driving it since alignment.

Also, I think I may have over-torqued something as the steering wheel doesn't seem to be just freely correcting itself to the center while driving - it stops few degrees from being level.


Alignment specs (alignment was done at the dealership)
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      01-19-2017, 09:33 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W37V View Post
Driving the car for 20 miles was quite an experience. However, alignment was done. New tires are on as well (Michelin A/S3+)









So far, the car seems more stable and it's smoother. Nothing drastic thou. Since suspension seemed blown, it may have been worth the upgrade, but i haven't spent much time driving it since alignment.

Also, I think I may have over-torqued something as the steering wheel doesn't seem to be just freely correcting itself to the center while driving - it stops few degrees from being level.


Alignment specs (alignment was done at the dealership)
Return torque is due to caster and it's asymmetric which is really obvious in the SAI numbers. Something's fucked up.
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      01-19-2017, 09:43 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpete View Post
Return torque is due to caster and it's asymmetric which is really obvious in the SAI numbers. Something's fucked up.
He never measured caster. on top, I still have the strut pin in place. I'll give it a day or two to see if things loosen up. If not, then I will re-torque everything - i guess. I think I might've over-torqued tie rods.
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      01-19-2017, 09:45 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W37V View Post
He never measured caster. on top, I still have the strut pin in place. I'll give it a day or two to see if things loosen up. If not, then I will re-torque everything - i guess. I think I might've over-torqued tie rods.
Dunno but different steering angle inclination on each side seems wrong somehow but I'm no expert. Surely someone will set me straight here.
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      01-19-2017, 10:07 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpete View Post
Dunno but different steering angle inclination on each side seems wrong somehow but I'm no expert. Surely someone will set me straight here.
You are right.

I just pulled my last alignment sheet and it has 7 and 7.5.
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      01-20-2017, 12:37 PM   #108
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You should have gone with the "before" front camber numbers. Boo on you.

Returning to center issue could also be steering shaft/knuckle related...that is a pretty wide gap though.
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      01-20-2017, 02:03 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCobra94 View Post
You should have gone with the "before" front camber numbers. Boo on you.

Returning to center issue could also be steering shaft/knuckle related...that is a pretty wide gap though.
I didn't have input on it. It was done at the dealership. I don't even know how he adjusted the camber.

I think i overtightened something. I will loosed up some bolts and see if there is any difference.

What are you talking about track? Track differential angle?
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      01-20-2017, 02:35 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W37V View Post
I didn't have input on it. It was done at the dealership. I don't even know how he adjusted the camber.

I think i overtightened something. I will loosed up some bolts and see if there is any difference.

What are you talking about track? Track differential angle?
My wheel doesn't really return back to straight at all either... Doesn't bother me. I don't drive a Honda civic. The steering is pretty heavy on a 135i and so are my wide wheels/tires. I owned a 128i that was brand new before I bought my 135i. That cars wheel didn't return to center very well either... What are you comparing to to cause you to say the wheel isn't returning to center properly?

Also, Caster is off by almost 1*, which is causing SAI to be off. SAI being out by 5* could have a significant impact on the wheel returning to center. Something might have play or might be bent? I'd guess it would be pretty hard to troubleshoot a caster difference of <1*. Live with it?

Here is a very helpful website. There are charts that can point you to why your SAI is off by almost 5* from side to side: http://aligncraft.com/terms/terms.ht...is Inclination

Last edited by bbnks2; 01-20-2017 at 02:53 PM.
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