[Lotus99]

Originally Posted by greg328

Of course, this can be very dangerous as this can put me in harms way with no way to move the car. Thankfully, the 3-4 times this has happened to me, I've been able to dive for the shoulder or side of street to be out of way of traffic.
Greg

Your solution in the meantime is to learn the "threshold braking" technique, so you don't lock up your brakes.

No, in all seriousness, hope you get your issue figured out.

[greg328]

Originally Posted by Lotus99

Your solution in the meantime is to learn the "threshold braking" technique, so you don't lock up your brakes.

No, in all seriousness, hope you get your issue figured out.

Trust me, I'm very conscientious about full-on braking. I can normally threshold brake with the best of them, but sometimes on the road, to avoid idiot drivers and their bad judgment, I find myself occasionally needing to engage ABS at full brake pressure. I'm apprehensive to drive this car.

Greg

[allotherareused]

Originally Posted by greg328

My issue is this: no dash warning lights upon starting up. But, if I lock the brakes with great pedal force, the front brakes stay locked, car dives to a stop and cannot be moved. A "DSC malfunction" warning appears onscreen warning on the NAV display. The only solution is to shut down the car and wait about 10 minutes for the brakes to release and then all is back to normal.

Of course, this can be very dangerous as this can put me in harms way with no way to move the car. Thankfully, the 3-4 times this has happened to me, I've been able to dive for the shoulder or side of street to be out of way of traffic.

Because I have no dash warning lights, only the NAV DSC malfunction screen when the problem is present, this problem is difficult to trace. Also, I have a code reader that is having a hard time pulling any error codes. (shows no connection) Maybe I'll run down to the auto parts store and have them try.

Could my problem be the aforementioned mentioned issue of ABS pump motor malfunction? Seems like this may cause my issue--it only appears when I lock the brakes. Maybe the pump can't cycle normally so it leaves my front brakes locked. With time, pressure releases, allowing the car to be driven as normal.

I hesitate to remove my DSC/ABS pump/module assembly to send to Module Masters, because this is my only car and I need my wheels every day! Plus, I can't be sure that's the problem! What if the issue is with the front ABS sensors on each wheel? Or one wheel?

Greg

Well, I guess you need to focus on root cause detection, so let's clarify some details (just trying to help and you already mentioned possible problem) :

1. What exactly mean your software show no connection ? there is no device "02" ? (as I remember DSC is 02). I has to replace DSC when this happen.

2. If this is correct what about can bus diagnostics ? show everything is correct ?

if answer is positive on both question then you have problem with electronic part. You can change this without changing hydraulics, just find used DSC exactly same model and change electronics. In this case your brake locking problem is probably some fail safe feature.

Just for a case ... check connector and wiring on DSC, this is robust connector and should not be the problem but ... won't hurt to check

[HomieTheClown]

Just went through all these post. Lot of good information. I have a 2009 335i.

I have the same trifecta lights (yellowbrake, DSC, ABS) and the SES light on. Been on since March. Taking me a while to look at it. I don't have any software to pull the codes. I tried to install the right software once, but couldn't figure it out. Even bought a cable.

Here are my symptoms: Speedometer, tripometer, tachomoeter all work. The only thing that doesn't work is my cruise control. Something else that is wierd is when I am making a turn (especially right turn) onto a street. I'll be pressing the brake pedal while in the turn to slow down (doing about 10mpg) and I will feel the brake pedal vibrate and I will hear a farting sounds. I think the farting sound is coming from the abs module in front of me.

Using the information from the E46 forums I figured the passenger rear wheel sensor was out since the cruise control was broken. I swapped it with the driver rear wheel sensor and the cruise control is still broke and everything else (speedometer, tachometer, odometer) still works.

Do i have the dreaded abs module issue? Do I need to replace the whole ABS module or just fix the motor part like the youtube video? Also has anyone noticed this vibrating break pedal/ farting noise when you make slow turns.

I hope someone can help. My car only has 53k miles. So sad!

[Winners08E90]

Originally Posted by HomieTheClown

Just went through all these post. Lot of good information. I have a 2009 335i.

I have the same trifecta lights (yellowbrake, DSC, ABS) and the SES light on. Been on since March. Taking me a while to look at it. I don't have any software to pull the codes. I tried to install the right software once, but couldn't figure it out. Even bought a cable.

Here are my symptoms: Speedometer, tripometer, tachomoeter all work. The only thing that doesn't work is my cruise control. Something else that is wierd is when I am making a turn (especially right turn) onto a street. I'll be pressing the brake pedal while in the turn to slow down (doing about 10mpg) and I will feel the brake pedal vibrate and I will hear a farting sounds. I think the farting sound is coming from the abs module in front of me.

Using the information from the E46 forums I figured the passenger rear wheel sensor was out since the cruise control was broken. I swapped it with the driver rear wheel sensor and the cruise control is still broke and everything else (speedometer, tachometer, odometer) still works.

Do i have the dreaded abs module issue? Do I need to replace the whole ABS module or just fix the motor part like the youtube video? Also has anyone noticed this vibrating break pedal/ farting noise when you make slow turns.

I hope someone can help. My car only has 53k miles. So sad!

YEP! Welcome to the trifecta club! Same symptoms, 72k miles on an 08, minus the excessive flatulence. Ijust got mine fixed up last week. Pulled my ABS module and pump, left it assembled and sent it into Module Master in Moscow, ID. It was the week of thanksgiving when they received it. The car was out of service for 2 full weeks with shipping both ways and the holiday. Their support and updates were spot on. I called just to make sure they had received my unit, but once they got to the repair, they called to let me know it was done. They sent it back 2-day air, which ran about $30. If you're able to leave the car on blocks for the time it takes to get it done this way, I'd highly recommend it. No extra coding, no trip to the dealer. Just over $300 for the repair, shipping AND 2qts of brake fluid to do a full flush?! YES PLEASE!

Also, mine was the abs PUMP that was the issue.

[HomieTheClown]

Originally Posted by Winners08E90

YEP! Welcome to the trifecta club! Same symptoms, 72k miles on an 08, minus the excessive flatulence. Ijust got mine fixed up last week. Pulled my ABS module and pump, left it assembled and sent it into Module Master in Moscow, ID. It was the week of thanksgiving when they received it. The car was out of service for 2 full weeks with shipping both ways and the holiday. Their support and updates were spot on. I called just to make sure they had received my unit, but once they got to the repair, they called to let me know it was done. They sent it back 2-day air, which ran about $30. If you're able to leave the car on blocks for the time it takes to get it done this way, I'd highly recommend it. No extra coding, no trip to the dealer. Just over $300 for the repair, shipping AND 2qts of brake fluid to do a full flush?! YES PLEASE!

Also, mine was the abs PUMP that was the issue.

Hey Winners08E90

Thanks for taking the time to chime in. It's encouraging to see someone else having the exact same symptoms. You mentioned no coding so they only replaced your pump and didn't rebuild your actual ABS module? IS that right? Also if that's true, does that mean you could have taken apart your motor and fixed it yourself according to the youtube video:
[u2b]

[/u2b]

Also can anyone tell me how they are able to test their cars. I bought a special bmw cable a while back but never could get the software to work on my computer.

[HomieTheClown]

I just wanted to update my program in case anyone is going down the same road as me. I bought the cable and got the require INPA/EDIABAS software so I could diagnose my car. This is the code I pulled:

5DA6

I don't know what it means yet so I am googling it. For anyone who cares, there ya go! lol

[allotherareused]

Can't be sure but 5DA6 would be hydraulic part, you may need complete DSC DTC service

In order to avoid coding, try to buy working one same model and to replace hydraulic part only.

As per cable/software, change forum/topic. Most of cables works, but you probably need setup parameters, scripts, etc ...

[greg328]

Wanted to update my situation: I ordered a used DSC/ABS unit off Ebay, got lucky and found a really nice one for low $$. I swapped my old module onto the new valve body/pump motor, installed, all is well. The test of course in my situation, is if full=pressure braking caused the front calipers to lock up, as they were doing with my original unit. Good news, the problem is solved. Somebody told me the problem was the ABS valve body had a stuck valve, probably due to old unchanged brake fluid. He was right! I can confirm that I did a brake fluid change last year on this car myself, even though I had a BMW service shop receipt saying it was done in 2011. They lied. When I changed brake fluid, the old stuff was BLACK and gross. Obviously very old, possibly the original fluid from 2008. Another reason why I don't trust stealerships and try to do most work myself. I bought the car used and pulled all service records possible from my local dealer.

My final challenge is to bleed the brakes now, I've got a long pedal now. I don't have INPA and I'd like to avoid going to a shop to do this. Can anybody recommend a way to get the air out of the new ABS valve body? I thought I read somewhere that I can take the car to a gravel road and simply activate ABS a few times to cycle all the air out of the ABS unit and down to the calipers where I can then bleed. Is this a valid approach?

Thanks in advance!

Greg
Houston TX

[dveluru]

Hi, I had the DSC hydrolic pump error so I followed these instructions are replaced my pump. That error went away but now I'm getting a "DSC Brake pressure sensor error", which i did not see before.

Do you think this error came up because I didn't install something correctly? Or maybe I didn't bleed the abs system properly? or maybe I dislodged or damaged something when moving the brake lines around when trying to remove and reinstall the module?

Any insight would be great, thanks for your help in advance!

[blknighte92]

Hi all if anyone has done a reinstall of theirs after having it shipped to module masters please chime in. I just got mine back and when i removed it everything went smoothly. now I'm in the middle of the reinstall and NONE of the lines are going back in correctly. Below are pictures of all the line screwed in as far as i can get them and not coming remotely flush. different depths on all of then and i don't want to fore it down any tighter as they are all already pretty far as tight as they can go. and help would be greatly appreciated. idk what i could be missing here???

[greg328]

My suggestion: what worked best for me was to start all the lines, or at least the problematic ones while the module was not yet securely fastened in the car. This enabled the threaded barrels to more easily thread into the valve body. I had a really tough time with mine until I loosened the module and angled it to allow easier threading. Please make sure you're installing the lines in the right ports and don't cross/thread or strip them. That would suck big time.
Good luck!

[blknighte92]

thats the part that scares me, i got the lines a decent way in but they ALL stop a decent amount away from being fully in and i don't want to wrench force it the rest of the way and chance the threading getting stripped

[deepsrd]

Originally Posted by dveluru

Hi, I had the DSC hydrolic pump error so I followed these instructions are replaced my pump. That error went away but now I'm getting a "DSC Brake pressure sensor error", which i did not see before.

Do you think this error came up because I didn't install something correctly? Or maybe I didn't bleed the abs system properly? or maybe I dislodged or damaged something when moving the brake lines around when trying to remove and reinstall the module?

Any insight would be great, thanks for your help in advance!

I am not sure if it needs recalibration..
Try to get that done..

[allotherareused]

you probably weren't gently removed this.

don't use wrench, tight this by hand, left hand moving line, right hand on screw ...

when this is almost done use wrench

[blknighte92]

For those of you that ended up doing the module masters way, how did you guys bleed the brakes? It's the procedure going to be any different since there's probably air in the system from the removal process? I just changed my fluid about 6 months ago and am debating whether I should do a full flush or do the reverse pressure pump from the bleeder valve to push the air up out the master cylinder? Also if I do the normal flush, will it be able to go through the whole abs system and push out all the air through the bleeder valves at the bottom? And do I need a bad tool because I read somewhere there's a option to force the car to run fluid through the abs pump module? I know tons of questions so thanks to whoever can help me out!

[dveluru]

My threads are also sticking out like blknight's above. I didnt realize the threading should be all the way in. Maybe that's why im having the brake pressure sensor error?

Edit: I just looked at some pictures online and i don't think the threads need to go all the way in.

[dveluru]

Originally Posted by deepsrd

I am not sure if it needs recalibration..
Try to get that done..

How do I get recalibration? can the dealer do this? What specifically do I ask for? My dealers here doesn't even hook up the car to the computer and cycle the abs when bleeding the brakes. They also said they couldn't bleed the clutch

[deepsrd]

Originally Posted by dveluru

How do I get recalibration? can the dealer do this? What specifically do I ask for? My dealers here doesn't even hook up the car to the computer and cycle the abs when bleeding the brakes. They also said they couldn't bleed the clutch

Install ISTA-D Rheingold..
It will read the error codes for recalibration (I think it is 5D00 and 5D01) and give you a test plan.
Click on the test plan, and it will automatically recalibrate your DSC module and sensors..

No need for trip to the dealer..

[GuamX1]

my car is an E88 with 22K miles it is an o8 128i. The dealer is charging me 4K to fix the trifecta lights. I think because of my location I should try to clean the brushes first.

[deepsrd]

Originally Posted by Guam135i

my car is an E88 with 22K miles it is an o8 128i. The dealer is charging me 4K to fix the trifecta lights. I think because of my location I should try to clean the brushes first.

Get it reconditioned.. 4K is ridiculous..

[GuamX1]

I know I already am in communication with Modulemasters, thanks