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Any plumbers/CH engineers in the house?
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12-14-2012, 06:23 AM | #1 |
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Any plumbers/CH engineers in the house?
I've got a problematic rad,there's a marked difference in temperature between the bottom and the top of the rad,the top being hotter.
I've had the rad off after isolating at the valves,and drained it down. I then took it outside to flush it through as I thought there might be a load of black shite in the bottom,but that wasn't the case. I've now turned all the other rads off in the vain hope that this measure might push through what could be an airlock? That doesn't seemed to have worked either Any other ideas/tips chaps ? Ta muchly.
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12-14-2012, 06:36 AM | #2 |
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I know this might be a stupid suggestion. As I am no plumber, and besides you may have already done this.
Switch the broken radiator ( lounge) for a good one ( kitchen). Then check to see if the problem persists, if it does then obviously it would mean there is a problem with piping. And if it is 100% not working then I am not sure on how to fix, possibly replace if not expensive? From somewhere like Screwfix? Sorry not much help I know. but hey. |
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12-14-2012, 06:36 AM | #3 |
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Odd that the top is hotter. If it was an airlock I'd expect it to be the other way round.
Could be that the radiator has corroded inside and is now just a big empty tank instead of having pipes through it, and so convection is naturally making the top hotter? Long shot I know!
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12-14-2012, 06:42 AM | #4 | |
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Quote:
Cheers for the suggestions though
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12-14-2012, 07:44 AM | #5 |
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Swap the rad for a new one you've tried everything that I would do, try and get like for like so no pipe work alteration is required.
Remember to add some inhibitor into the system afterwards.
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12-14-2012, 08:08 AM | #6 |
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Try balancing the system, shut some rads off that are near to the offending radiator on the lockshield valves, you will need to pull off the caps and use a small adjustable spanner, ( these are the valves on radiator ) then see if the radiator heat coverage improves , if it does then start to slightly open all the lockshield valves untill all radiators seem about the same Temp.
Give it a go. |
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12-14-2012, 08:13 AM | #7 |
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Three things came to mind, balancing, faulty TRV, try pump speed on highest setting if not already so. With a note that pump speed 3 can sometimes introduce air which needs bleeding from furthest rad every few weeks. Bleed with system cold.
I'm not a heating engineer so only guessing, but as you said you turned off all other rads, i'm not so sure my thoughts count now. |
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12-14-2012, 10:36 AM | #8 |
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are the rad conns. tboe. top and bottom opposite ends? if so, the flow pipe could in the bottom of the rad and the return water exiting via the top connection. this could cause this problem. retired heating eng.
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12-14-2012, 02:11 PM | #9 |
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Cheers for all the suggestions Guys ,it's now sorted.
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12-14-2012, 02:32 PM | #11 |
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Left all the other rads off,and whacked the pressure up on the boiler to 3bar!
The increase in pressure pushed out the airlock in the rad,and the surplus went out the blow off valve The boiler went into limp mode initially,but it soon settled down to 1.5bar and 550lbs torque
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