[UncleWede]

Maybe Wheel and Tire #7?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by noktekniq

so for being lazy and not wanting to apply so many layers of different zaino, using the z-aio would do the job? i got a little confused when you say "polishes," so z-aio isn't wax?

Terms often get thrown around pretty loosely, but technically, no Zaino product has a wax in it, they are all polymer sealants.

A polish is a product that cleans the paint and removes imperfections either by chemical cleaners in the polish or with abrasive particles.

An all in one product, aka AIO, will polish and protect, so there are cleaners (chemical or abrasive) and protectants (polymers or waxes). Z-AIO is a combination of mild abrasives and polymers.

Back to your question, if you are looking for a 1 step product from Zaino, then Z-AIO is your choice IMO.

Originally Posted by UncleWede

I guess that's really what I'm looking for, something to PROTECT the metal/chrome. PB wheel sealant will hold up to the heat on the pipes? I've always liked the BlueJob for polishing the surfaces, but with all the fertilizer in the air around me, and I never had anything to apply after the BJ to protect.

Maybe Wheel and Tire #7?

Yes, this would be a great product combination for your chrome and metal. OC 335i is correct in saying that almost any sealant will help protect your metal, however, Poorboy's Wheel Sealant is formulated specifically to withstand higher temperatures as well as being optimized specifically for metal surfaces.

I think you'll be very pleased with that product combination you selected. Let us know how you make out and what you end up going with.

George

[midlife]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

BMXtreme,

It sounds like not all of the product was removed after waxing. I'd use a plush microfiber towel and a quick detailer and go over it again to make sure everything is completely removed. This happened to my vehicle the first time I waxed it. I'd recommend doing this after a thorough wash to minimize adding any imperfections to the paint. I used Poorboy's Spray & Wipe as my QD and it worked great.

Let us know how you make out.

George

george:
i have followed your entire thread, and i will be getting my (space grey, w/ black interior) 2008 335 covert in 2 months , but i live in ecuador.

my wife will be in NY in next month, and i would want to order a pretty "complete interior & exterior set" including washes, polishes, QD, sealant, towels, etc. (do not think i need a PC orbital machine at this time). whatever supply quantities u recommend need to last me about 1 year. these products my wife will be bringing with her in here checked in baggage (not too heavy i hope).

FYI this car will be moderately driven (approx 500 miles per month), and i plan to keep the car for many years. the weather here is quite similar to los angeles: approx 80 degrees and somewhat dry year for 9 months, and rains a bit and a little cooler for about 3 months. also, i live at 7,000 feet above sea level if that matters.

1/ i briefly looked at your site, i noticed u have klasse products, but i did not see any zaino products... i am new to this detailing, so i am not married to zaino, but do u carry it??

2/ how best to start working up an order with you ? please advise

thanks

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by midlife

george:
i have followed your entire thread, and i will be getting my (space grey, w/ black interior) 2008 335 covert in 2 months , but i live in ecuador.

my wife will be in NY in next month, and i would want to order a pretty "complete interior & exterior set" including washes, polishes, QD, sealant, towels, etc. (do not think i need a PC orbital machine at this time). whatever supply quantities u recommend need to last me about 1 year. these products my wife will be bringing with her in here checked in baggage (not too heavy i hope).

FYI this car will be moderately driven (approx 500 miles per month), and i plan to keep the car for many years. the weather here is quite similar to los angeles: approx 80 degrees and somewhat dry year for 9 months, and rains a bit and a little cooler for about 3 months. also, i live at 7,000 feet above sea level if that matters.

1/ i briefly looked at your site, i noticed u have klasse products, but i did not see any zaino products... i am new to this detailing, so i am not married to zaino, but do u carry it??

2/ how best to start working up an order with you ? please advise

thanks

Thanks for the post. Zaino has to be ordered directly from their website or picked up from one of their local distributors. Unfortunately at this time they do not allow other US based vendors sell their products online. I'd be happy to recommend a package to best fit your needs and objectives.

Feel free to shoot me a PM or email with what you were thinking of picking up and I'd be happy to look things over and point you in the right direction with everything. This would be the best way to get things rolling and we can arrange to have the package shipped to your wife when she is in NY. To give you an idea on weight, typically speaking 32oz sized products weigh 2.5 lbs and 16oz products weigh roughly 1.5 lbs.

Look forward to hearing from you.

George

[My1stbimmer]

Hello george and to all the guys at Detailed image. This thread has provided so much valuable information and made me realize how much of a newb to washing not even detailing just washing a car. I have a sapphire blacke90 and we all know about the extra care of black. My question for george is I purchased some similar products micro fiber towels waffel weave drying towels and how do you wash them to keep them from redepositing the dirt you removed, and what are some suggestions to keep the black looking showroom black? Thanks for all your help!

[IMG][/IMG]

[midlife]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Thanks for the post. Zaino has to be ordered directly from their website or picked up from one of their local distributors. Unfortunately at this time they do not allow other US based vendors sell their products online. I'd be happy to recommend a package to best fit your needs and objectives.

Feel free to shoot me a PM or email with what you were thinking of picking up and I'd be happy to look things over and point you in the right direction with everything. This would be the best way to get things rolling and we can arrange to have the package shipped to your wife when she is in NY. To give you an idea on weight, typically speaking 32oz sized products weigh 2.5 lbs and 16oz products weigh roughly 1.5 lbs.

Look forward to hearing from you.

George

George:

Regarding an initial order, please see my previous post from today regarding how much I will be driving the car (when I get it) and the local weather conditions here. As far as detailing and car washings, I plan to follow all I have read (2 full details a year, and car washes every 10 days or so).

Assume I am starting out with nothing (except pails). Since either my wife or I are in NY at least once a year, I probably need to order only 1 year of supplies at a time (trust me when I tell u that my wife is not that happy about bringing this stuff back in her checked luggage). I hope (and assume) that most of your products are not flameable and can be packed into checked airline luggage.

The following is my slightly well read (your thread) but inexperienced guess for general supplies needed:

for regular detailing and Maintenance:

Washing & Drying
a/ a good car wash. Since this item may be the bulkest / heavest for airplane luggage, please recommend what u carry, and also recommend what good over the counter brand a developing country like ecuador may have. My guess is that this may be the only product I may try to buy locally (only because of the possible bulk and weight).

b/ towels and mitts for car washing and drying

Clay Bar – since my car is new, I am guessing one of the more milder ones.
May need something to spray onto clay for easier use.

Compounding (nothing needed at this time). Correct me if I am wrong.
Polishing – (nothing needed at this time). Correct me if I am wrong.
Finishing Polishes - (nothing needed at this time). Correct me if I am wrong.

All In One Products – Would need some AIO – please recommend a product. Also kindly advise if I were to do the cleaning and polishing in 2 separate steps, which products I would use. Is there really that big a difference that it is worth doing these steps separately?? (I am slightly lazy)

Glazes – (nothing needed at this time). Correct me if I am wrong.

Sealants – Obviously, this is one of the most important steps. Want a very good product for protection. Also need the proper applicators (if original product applicator is not good) and MF towels for this job. How is this “full metal jacket” stuff ??

Waxes – a good carnuba wax (unless your recommended sealant does not need it). Also need the MF towels for this job.

Spray on Protectants – I love the idea of washing the car and then spraying on extra protection / shine over the car’s detailing and wax. Also need the MF towels for this job.

Quick Detailers – please recommend something. Also need the MF towels for this job.

CAR INTERIOR: I am interested products for carpet, aluminum trim, and especially the new 335 dakota leather: need cleaners and protectants (I will probably use some old 100% high quality T shirts for these jobs).

Tires: I guess I can use the local Armour All cleaners and protectant, but not that happy about such a super shiny look on tires. Any suggestions?
RIMS: Would prefer big bang for less work (I do not see myself claying, polishing, then sealing the rims). Any suggestions?

Rubber moldings: I do not have the car yet, but I assume the folding convertible hardtop has some sort of rubber moldings in and around it. Can u advise something that will be appropriate for cleaning and keeping these moldings mist so they do not sqeak?


If I left anything important out, please advise.
You can PM me with prices and weights. Note that u would be sending my stuff UPS to NY zipcode 10019.

Thanks in advance, I look forward to hearing your suggestions.

[midlife]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Thanks for the post.
Look forward to hearing from you.

George

george:

regarding my above post for initial order:

i have been told that the 7,000 feet altitude here magnifies the sun's UV rays 18 times stronger than at sea level.

for this reason, please b sure to advise the strongest sealant for car's exterior paint, and also best "selant" for car's black dakota interior (my car is a convertible.thanks,

i assume any interior car selant will not mess with the dakota leather's specially treated interiors which reduces by about 35 degrees the seat leather temperature.

[UncleWede]

I got one of those powerball mini units from Costco (figured I couldn't make it much worse) and did a number on the larger surfaces of my bike. Is that P21 finish restorer in Wheel and Tire #7 something that can be applied with a powerball? If I get the refills, can I use one for P21 and one for the wheel sealant?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by My1stbimmer

Hello george and to all the guys at Detailed image. This thread has provided so much valuable information and made me realize how much of a newb to washing not even detailing just washing a car. I have a sapphire blacke90 and we all know about the extra care of black. My question for george is I purchased some similar products micro fiber towels waffel weave drying towels and how do you wash them to keep them from redepositing the dirt you removed, and what are some suggestions to keep the black looking showroom black? Thanks for all your help!

For microfiber care, here is a great article covering the best ways to maximize your microfiber towels. If you follow those tips, you'll get the most life out of your towels as well as keeping them paint safe as long as possible.

For keeping black looking showroom black, the best thing you can do is really focus on the proper washing and drying techniques. The largest factor that takes away from black or other dark colored vehicles is swirls and other imperfections in the clear coat. Washing and drying incorrectly results in 70% or more of imperfections in the clear coat, so it's important to focus your attention on making your wash routine as paint safe as possible.

If you already have imperfections, then polishing your clear coat is going to have the biggest impact on the depth and gloss of your paint. Once you correct the imperfections, you'll want to protect your paint with a durable sealant and / or wax. This will help enhance the depth and gloss of the paint, while adding a layer of protection from the elements.

If you need a hand selecting any products, let me know and I'd be happy to give my recommendations for black sapphire.

Originally Posted by midlife

George:

Regarding an initial order, please see my previous post from today regarding how much I will be driving the car (when I get it) and the local weather conditions here. As far as detailing and car washings, I plan to follow all I have read (2 full details a year, and car washes every 10 days or so).

Assume I am starting out with nothing (except pails). Since either my wife or I are in NY at least once a year, I probably need to order only 1 year of supplies at a time (trust me when I tell u that my wife is not that happy about bringing this stuff back in her checked luggage). I hope (and assume) that most of your products are not flameable and can be packed into checked airline luggage.

The following is my slightly well read (your thread) but inexperienced guess for general supplies needed:

for regular detailing and Maintenance:

Washing & Drying
a/ a good car wash. Since this item may be the bulkest / heavest for airplane luggage, please recommend what u carry, and also recommend what good over the counter brand a developing country like ecuador may have. My guess is that this may be the only product I may try to buy locally (only because of the possible bulk and weight).

b/ towels and mitts for car washing and drying

Clay Bar – since my car is new, I am guessing one of the more milder ones.
May need something to spray onto clay for easier use.

Compounding (nothing needed at this time). Correct me if I am wrong.
Polishing – (nothing needed at this time). Correct me if I am wrong.
Finishing Polishes - (nothing needed at this time). Correct me if I am wrong.

All In One Products – Would need some AIO – please recommend a product. Also kindly advise if I were to do the cleaning and polishing in 2 separate steps, which products I would use. Is there really that big a difference that it is worth doing these steps separately?? (I am slightly lazy)

Glazes – (nothing needed at this time). Correct me if I am wrong.

Sealants – Obviously, this is one of the most important steps. Want a very good product for protection. Also need the proper applicators (if original product applicator is not good) and MF towels for this job. How is this “full metal jacket” stuff ??

Waxes – a good carnuba wax (unless your recommended sealant does not need it). Also need the MF towels for this job.

Spray on Protectants – I love the idea of washing the car and then spraying on extra protection / shine over the car’s detailing and wax. Also need the MF towels for this job.

Quick Detailers – please recommend something. Also need the MF towels for this job.

CAR INTERIOR: I am interested products for carpet, aluminum trim, and especially the new 335 dakota leather: need cleaners and protectants (I will probably use some old 100% high quality T shirts for these jobs).

Tires: I guess I can use the local Armour All cleaners and protectant, but not that happy about such a super shiny look on tires. Any suggestions?
RIMS: Would prefer big bang for less work (I do not see myself claying, polishing, then sealing the rims). Any suggestions?

Rubber moldings: I do not have the car yet, but I assume the folding convertible hardtop has some sort of rubber moldings in and around it. Can u advise something that will be appropriate for cleaning and keeping these moldings mist so they do not sqeak?


If I left anything important out, please advise.
You can PM me with prices and weights. Note that u would be sending my stuff UPS to NY zipcode 10019.

Thanks in advance, I look forward to hearing your suggestions.

Originally Posted by midlife

george:

regarding my above post for initial order:

i have been told that the 7,000 feet altitude here magnifies the sun's UV rays 18 times stronger than at sea level.

for this reason, please b sure to advise the strongest sealant for car's exterior paint, and also best "selant" for car's black dakota interior (my car is a convertible.thanks,

i assume any interior car selant will not mess with the dakota leather's specially treated interiors which reduces by about 35 degrees the seat leather temperature.

PM coming right after this post. Thank you for the detailed information on your needs and objectives.

Originally Posted by UncleWede

I got one of those powerball mini units from Costco (figured I couldn't make it much worse) and did a number on the larger surfaces of my bike. Is that P21 finish restorer in Wheel and Tire #7 something that can be applied with a powerball? If I get the refills, can I use one for P21 and one for the wheel sealant?

I don't see why it would be a problem using the P21s Finish Restorer with the Powerball, however, the FR isn't a product that spreads that easily, so I have a feeling you'd be wasting a lot of product. Unfortunately, I can't think of a metal polish we carry that would be ideal for use with the Powerball. Wheel Sealant spreads much further than the Finish Restorer, so this product could probably be applied w/ the Powerball on a clean surface. I'd try to dig up what other detailers are using with the Powerball to get the best results.

George

[sexy_ninja_goat]

I have I guess I few questions that I'm sure have been covered 1000 times but this is a long post and I don't want to read through all of them so any help anyone could give me would be great.

I have read through a lot of these posts and just like with everything else everyone has there own favorite products and I am as unsure of what to use/how to go about detailing my car as I was when I started. To be honest I really don't have 6 hours to devote to detailing my car every couple months so I think I am going to bring it some place to have it done. The most reputable place in my area uses 3M ™ Perfect-It™ III Paint Finishing Line. Can anyone tell me if this stuff is any good, or what it is comparable to, or if you could give me any pointers/tips to pay attention to when deciding where to bring it, and also what I will need to do as far as washing/waxing in between visits to the detailing shop. Thanks so much for your help!!!

[midlife]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

PM coming right after this post. Thank you for the detailed information on your needs and objectives.

George

george,

thanks for all your very insightful help. ready to place an order, but since i live in ecuador, i have a billing question. kindly look for my PM.

i look forward to ordering, using and enjoying the products u recommended.
thanks again

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by newbimmerfacination

I have I guess I few questions that I'm sure have been covered 1000 times but this is a long post and I don't want to read through all of them so any help anyone could give me would be great.

I have read through a lot of these posts and just like with everything else everyone has there own favorite products and I am as unsure of what to use/how to go about detailing my car as I was when I started. To be honest I really don't have 6 hours to devote to detailing my car every couple months so I think I am going to bring it some place to have it done. The most reputable place in my area uses 3M ™ Perfect-It™ III Paint Finishing Line. Can anyone tell me if this stuff is any good, or what it is comparable to, or if you could give me any pointers/tips to pay attention to when deciding where to bring it, and also what I will need to do as far as washing/waxing in between visits to the detailing shop. Thanks so much for your help!!!

The 3M line of polishes are pretty good good. If I were in a pinch, I'd turn to them as my choice of polish at a local store. The best question you can ask is if they use a rotary buffer or a random orbital. If it is a rotary, ask if you can see any work in progress or if they have any references you could contact. If they provide quality work they shouldn't have any problem providing one of the two for you. Poor rotary detailers can leave the finish worse than you brought it to them after any filling products they apply wash out.

Check some detailing forums to see if there are any detailers in your area. Perhaps the Autopia.org regional section.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Originally Posted by midlife

george,

thanks for all your very insightful help. ready to place an order, but since i live in ecuador, i have a billing question. kindly look for my PM.

i look forward to ordering, using and enjoying the products u recommended.
thanks again

Great hearing from you, PM replied.

George

[inabis]

I just moved from FL to Colorado. I've never owned a car in the snow and have no idea how to take care of it. I've been told that in CO they do not use salt but Magnesium something...and I heard that this is much worse on your paint; apparently it clumps and sticks there. Until now, I've been using NXT wax/detailer + Duragloss AW from time to time. I read over at Autopia that some people wash their cars with ONR (Optimum No Rinse I think) but I'm not so sure that this would get rid of everything on the paint. Any help for my first winter would be appreciated. Thanks.

[turbojew]

i'm a service advisor/manger in FL for one of the largest BMW in the world. I'v recently seen many 2004 e60 come in with the front head lamps foggy, yellow and barley transparent. Any tips on how to prevent this or explaintions on how this occurs. i head waxing the head lamps could be a factor in the discoloring the plastic.

thank you Jared S

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by inabis

I just moved from FL to Colorado. I've never owned a car in the snow and have no idea how to take care of it. I've been told that in CO they do not use salt but Magnesium something...and I heard that this is much worse on your paint; apparently it clumps and sticks there. Until now, I've been using NXT wax/detailer + Duragloss AW from time to time. I read over at Autopia that some people wash their cars with ONR (Optimum No Rinse I think) but I'm not so sure that this would get rid of everything on the paint. Any help for my first winter would be appreciated. Thanks.

inabis, great question. The best thing I can recommend you do is apply a durable sealant over the winter to ensure your paint has long protection. Sealants typically will last 3 - 6 months and will provide a barrier of protection that helps prevent contamination and other road grime from embedding into your clear coat. This also makes future clean ups significantly easier too with a sealant protecting your vehicle.

Prior to applying your sealant to your vehicle, consider using a clay bar on your paint first if you haven't done so recently or ever. This will help properly prep your paints surface to get the maximum durability and protection on your paint by removing any contamination both visible and non-visible, that does not come off during the typical washing and drying stage.

Another big thing I stress is applying a product like Poorboy's Wheel Sealant on your wheels. During the cold winter months (we get them in NY as well), I can't think of anything I dread more than cleaning ice cold wheels. Using a product like Wheel Sealant will make cleaning your wheels a breeze. Simply apply a coat or two to your wheels and during your regular wash phase dedicate a wash mitt to them and treat them the same as your paint with automotive shampoo and water.

Regarding the Optimum No Rinse, I think it is a great option to use over the winter months. I haven't personally used it but it seems to be the best option to turn to when you do not have access to a hose. Cleaning off the salt and magnesium as quickly as possible is the best way to prevent any etching or serious damage to your vehicle.

Let me know if this helps clear things up for you. If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

Originally Posted by turbojew

i'm a service advisor/manger in FL for one of the largest BMW in the world. I'v recently seen many 2004 e60 come in with the front head lamps foggy, yellow and barley transparent. Any tips on how to prevent this or explaintions on how this occurs. i head waxing the head lamps could be a factor in the discoloring the plastic.

thank you Jared S

Jared, typically foggy, yellow lights are due to a break in the seal of the lights and moisture getting inside. Lights made today typically are designed to withstand fading and yellowing from UV rays and normal wear and tear, so it was more than likely due to a failure of a quality seal somewhere. Something like hitting a curb, a bad pot hole even, could potentially make this happen. The once moisture accumulates from rain, washing, etc. it begins to discolor and oxidize.

Using a quality wax on the lights should not have any ill effects, however some cheaper products over time (years of use) could potentially cause some discoloration. I do not think this would be a major factor though.

The good news is, this can easily be treated with a plastic polish which can be found locally, like Meguiar's ScratchX. If you are real anal about preventing this from happening, I treat my headlights with Plexus Plastic Cleaner, Polish & Protectant. This product also works great for gauges, navigation screens, and other audio equipment as it also has anti-static properties. For HEAVY oxidation, here's a link to a good walk thru on wet sanding headlights.

Hope this helps.

George

[jb]

How often should I clay my car? I performed a full exterior detail (wash, clay, sealant, wax) about two months ago using Wolfgang supplies. I have washed the car every week and waxed it every two weeks since then. I started college a few weeks ago and the car is no longer in a garage protected from the elements so I'm a little worried. Is the sealant still protecting the paint? Should I clay and seal again? Is waxing every two weeks overkill?

Thanks,
jb

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by jb

How often should I clay my car? I performed a full exterior detail (wash, clay, sealant, wax) about two months ago using Wolfgang supplies. I have washed the car every week and waxed it every two weeks since then. I started college a few weeks ago and the car is no longer in a garage protected from the elements so I'm a little worried. Is the sealant still protecting the paint? Should I clay and seal again? Is waxing every two weeks overkill?

Thanks,
jb

jb, good questions. I personally clay my entire vehicle 2 - 3 times a year and spot treat areas when needed. If you went through your process two months ago, you should be perfectly fine with protection from your sealant for another solid month or so. Sometime around a month from now, you could go through the same process you outlined (wash, clay, sealant, wax) to get a fresh coat of sealant on for the fall / winter. Before you clay, use the plastic bag test to see if your paint is rough to the touch. Simply put two fingers in a plastic bag and glide it across the paint. This will help amplify any contamination that is on the paint for you to feel. If you feel that the paint is rough, then you should re-clay, if the paint still feels smooth, then you do not have to clay again. I personally clay for my bigger details usually in the Spring and Fall.

I usually seal my vehicle once a season, so 4x a year and wax at least once a month. I use a spray on wax after each wash for additional pop and a little extra protection. You really can wax as frequently as you wish with no ill effects on the vehicle. Before you reapply your sealant, if you do not clay, you may want to consider wiping the vehicle down with Isopropyl Alcohol diluted with distilled water (1:1 ratio) to ensure that you completely strip off any protection still remaining from your coats of wax. Otherwise if you apply the sealant over the wax, the sealant will not bond correctly and you will miss out on the benefits of using the sealant.

Hope this helps clear things up for you. If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

[UncleWede]

Hey George, I actually read all the tips on the new site, and think I had a revelation. I always wondered what I was doing wrong when I washed, wiped, then applied whatever polish/wax was next, and found my brand new white applicator pad getting dirty (no, I didn't drop it) Even though I can't feel a need for claying, there is still something left in the "pores" that gets displaced by the polish/wax.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by UncleWede

Hey George, I actually read all the tips on the new site, and think I had a revelation. I always wondered what I was doing wrong when I washed, wiped, then applied whatever polish/wax was next, and found my brand new white applicator pad getting dirty (no, I didn't drop it) Even though I can't feel a need for claying, there is still something left in the "pores" that gets displaced by the polish/wax.

UncleWede, it sounds like you nailed it on the head. Sometimes embedded contamination is not always visible but a collection of microscopic dirt, grime, etc. What happens is that sometimes the solvents in the sealant or wax act as cleaners and help remove some of that contamination, resulting in the dirty applicator pad. If you have a clay bar handy, do a test. Clay a 18" x 18" area thoroughly and then reapply your product and check your pad. If it results in a clean pad with just product on it, chances are you can benefit from a thorough clay bar.

If you get a chance to run that test, let me know how things turn out.

George

[UncleWede]

What's the magic about 18 x18????

I was not referring to my own vehicle as much as others' I have recently worked on. I Dawn/Zano'd my sis-in-law's Camry, but without clay, since she was letting us spend Labor Day at her house, and I was mid-process on the 3 and needed to displace her car to work in the garage. Hey, points with the family is points with the family.

Even one that needed a LOT of time with the clay to remove overspray or paint transfer (neice couldn't exactly explain all the black paint on the front 1/4 panel of her silver car) when I applied some protection after sitting there for at least 45 minutes with clay, just on that 1/4 panel, I still came away with a dirty applicator.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by UncleWede

What's the magic about 18 x18????

I was not referring to my own vehicle as much as others' I have recently worked on. I Dawn/Zano'd my sis-in-law's Camry, but without clay, since she was letting us spend Labor Day at her house, and I was mid-process on the 3 and needed to displace her car to work in the garage. Hey, points with the family is points with the family.

Even one that needed a LOT of time with the clay to remove overspray or paint transfer (neice couldn't exactly explain all the black paint on the front 1/4 panel of her silver car) when I applied some protection after sitting there for at least 45 minutes with clay, just on that 1/4 panel, I still came away with a dirty applicator.

Nothing special about the 18" x 18", but a good rule of thumb when detailing is that if you aren't getting the results you are looking for, shrink down the size of your working area. This is much more important when polishing but can apply to all steps of the detailing process.

There's a chance you still were waxing over the overspray or paint transfer even after a thorough claying. For this type of contamination removal I resort to a medium grade bar that will pick up heavier contamination.

Hitting some trim could result in a pad looking dirty as well. Other than the obvious of dropping the pad, waxing over contamination, etc. I'm not sure what else it could be. My pads stay pretty clean and usually only have the color of the product being applied on my applicator pad.

George

[sapperelite]

George,
I finally bought the Zaino products and now I am wondering if I should put a carnumba or other type of wax over it. I did the Z-2pro with the ZFX and Z-6 spray over and it looks great. Some others have suggested getting the Clearcoat spray (Can't remember the number from Zaino) also. If I need a wax, can you hook me up with a recommended wax for the Sparkling Graphite?