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$&#^%# Steering wheel shimmy!!!
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06-24-2014, 10:20 AM | #23 |
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Anything is possible, but start with the bearing. I highly doubt that worn bushings contribute to humming issues.
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06-26-2014, 08:38 PM | #24 |
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I tried the brake jab test and the car definitely rocks backs and forth a couple times when coming to a full stop. I took the wheel off and I could grab the tension strut aluminum piece and I could move it back and forth a bit, visibly saw it move. No leaking fluid though.
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06-29-2014, 08:13 PM | #25 |
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Resolved. Swapped rear to front driver side and was perfect. Took the suspect wheel back to firestone and had them match mount it. Got it to .011 run out from .024. Any vibration is almost totally gone now. These cars are super sensitive to road force. Thanks to all for the advice
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06-30-2014, 10:01 AM | #26 | |
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07-03-2014, 12:32 AM | #27 |
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I FINALLY resolved my issue. Had the front wheel hub/bearing replaced under CPO. ALL IS GREAT NOW!!!! Months of nonsense because I didn't specifically take a test drive with my master tech and he couldn't feel/hear what I was talking about until I specifically pointed it out.
Even then it was guess because it didn't sound or feel like any bearing failure he'd experienced in the past. |
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08-19-2014, 08:50 AM | #28 |
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Anyone care to give me some advice?
Just put 19" Style 67s on my pre-LCI E90. The fronts are ET 47 so they need spacers. Tried running 12mm spacers in the front, got fairly significant [albeit intermittent] vibration/shimmying at highway speeds. Tried taking a drill with a wire brush attachment to the hub mount and cleaned it off. Seemed to get a *little* better but no dice. Tried taking the spacers off and isolating the problem - I still had intermittent vibration/shimmying at highway speeds, though it wasn't *quite* as significant. Had the fronts road force balanced - that apparently was not the problem. Any suggestions? At this point, especially given the intermittent nature, I'm thinking thrust arm bushings or some other suspension component? I hadn't noticed vibration with my stock 17s, but perhaps the thinner rubber + spacers makes the car a lot more sensitive?
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08-19-2014, 12:39 PM | #30 |
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Ugh, I don't know - I just thought I needed to ask to have them balanced on a road force machine. I'm sort of an idiot, you see.
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08-23-2014, 09:22 AM | #31 |
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Alright, went back to the shop where I had the fronts balanaced, they said they remembered the road force numbers being less than 10 on both sides.
That, plus the fact that the vibration doesn't seem to be consistent at speed, and that this is a car with 110k miles on its original bushings, leads me to the suspension. Valid inference?
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08-24-2014, 10:23 AM | #32 |
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Paid specific attention to this yesterday. Set cruise at ~70-75ish, and the vibration is definitely inconsistent at constant speed, seems more sensitive to going uphill/downhill or less-than-perfect surfaces. So I assume this is not is a balancing issue.
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08-24-2014, 07:34 PM | #33 |
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I know I'm just talking to myself, but whatever. Is there any scenario that isn't related specifically to the wheels/tires/spacers that would cause the shimmy that would disappear when I threw my OEM 17s back on?
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08-27-2014, 07:59 AM | #35 | |
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Thanks for your help. to be fair, I think they were willing to throw it back on the balancer. Any suggestions for finding the ideal place to get this taken care of? Is there any reason why I should go to the stealership? *Should* any random place with a GSP 9700 suffice?
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08-27-2014, 09:33 AM | #36 |
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It all comes down to the tech actually doing the work, their skill level, and how much time they're willing to invest in order to help solve your problem.
http://www.gsp9700.com/search/findgsp9700.cfm Make a list and start calling places. Tell them you're having vibration issues in a few tires and want them to measure the runout of the wheel/tire and force match the assembly. If they have no idea what you're talking about, hang up and call the next shop. Also, see if they have a lug centric balancing adapter to balance your wheels with: http://www.aescosc.com/haweka.html This removes any possible issue/user error with the wheel not sitting on the balancers typical cone style adapter properly. |
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09-04-2014, 04:13 PM | #37 |
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Alright, took the wheels today. One of the wheels is visibly bent when rotated and the (lateral???) runout was .040 on the rim I think. I suppose I think I have to get that straightened out? The roadforce number on that wheel was lower tho I think. One was 21 one was 9, he mostly attributed the former to the tire being worn. The steering is much better now but there's still some shimmying. Is it even worth trying to force match a worn tire on a bent rim?
I'm honestly just more confused now than I was before and I regret this whole f***ing experiment. Last edited by 850CSi; 09-04-2014 at 08:58 PM.. |
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09-05-2014, 09:46 AM | #38 |
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Nevermind, just gave him a call. Left front wheel has .04 radial runout; he said he didn't try force matching because it wouldn't have done anything by virtue of how close the low/high points were already(?). I guess that means most of the runout was from the wheel?
Are new tires typically easier to force match? i.e., is there greater variability between a new tire and a worn one?
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09-05-2014, 12:49 PM | #39 |
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Very interested in this. I've had severe vibration issues after installing some Dunlop Direza tires. Vibrations start above 30MPH.
Took it to dealer for road force and alignment (and asked to look around at all bushings). They, thankfully, reported that the service won't get rid of the vibrations due to 'uneven wear' (autocrossing). I agreed and let them perform the work. The vibrations reduced, but did not fully go away. I assumed it was autocrossing destroying the tires (after only 2 events), but now I am not so sure based on threads on this forum. Sounds like I need to have dealer inspect bearings and bushings AGAIN. I can't rotate tires due to staggered setup. |
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