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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: 335i N54 Front CrankShaft Seal Replacement



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      03-14-2018, 05:12 PM   #23
MABBMW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_malvo View Post
Sure! Glad it helped!
Mr malvo

This has been extremely helpful post. You mentioned taking off your valve cover and dropping the oil pan. Did you actually find pieces or chunks of belts in those areas.

I'm dealing with same issue.
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      03-14-2018, 05:16 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MABBMW View Post
Mr malvo

This has been extremely helpful post. You mentioned taking off your valve cover and dropping the oil pan. Did you actually find pieces or chunks of belts in those areas.

I'm dealing with same issue.
Yes, I did. And fairly large pieces too. Check this other thread for pictures.


http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1305990
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      03-15-2018, 01:23 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_malvo View Post
Yes, I did. And fairly large pieces too. Check this other thread for pictures.


http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1305990
Thanks for the response.
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      04-27-2018, 04:18 PM   #26
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I would like to thank mr_malvo for the loan of his seal removal/install tool.

It worked flawlessly. In my case, I was able to use the adapter with 3 bolts to install the new seal.

Thanks again brother!!
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      04-27-2018, 05:27 PM   #27
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mr_malvo

I was wondering if you would be willing to rent or let me barrow the crankshaft seal tool? Contact me here or I'll pm you my #.

Thanks
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      05-15-2018, 06:31 AM   #28
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Hello sir could you rent me the tools. My email is mariozarazua81@gmail.com I would appreciate if you responded. I just do not want to buy the tools for a one time use..
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      05-25-2018, 03:07 AM   #29
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It seems like this is becoming quite the common issue, because I'm in the same boat as the users above.

If anyone has the main seal removal/installation tool for rent, Please Please Please contact me.
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      05-25-2018, 11:49 PM   #30
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Hey Folks,

I won't bore you all with the same sad story, but after replacing my leaking OFH gasket, serpentine belt and pulleys, my car decided to start spewing oil everywhere and throw a belt shredding party. So much for preventatve maintenance...

The bad news is it took 5 hours to remove belt pieces from pulley grooves and shafts, the good news is I *might* have caught it before catastrophic damage. I did find some belt chunks wrapped on the inside of the crank shaft pulley, but does anyone have a semi-expert opinion on whether this seal is still good? Maybe I just need to drive it and see if it leaks...



Obligatory, sad pic of my former belt:
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      05-26-2018, 02:44 PM   #31
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***EDIT**
After closer look the right top and right middle parts of your seal look damaged. Is that just the picture angle? can't tell. Anyways, doesn't seem like belt pieces went in there.

You mentioned oil leaks after replacing the OFHG, did you identified the source of the leak?


************************************************** **********************
Pictures finally showed. Your seal does not look compromised. That some good news!

Quote:
Originally Posted by naeshy View Post
Hey Folks,

I won't bore you all with the same sad story, but after replacing my leaking OFH gasket, serpentine belt and pulleys, my car decided to start spewing oil everywhere and throw a belt shredding party. So much for preventatve maintenance...

The bad news is it took 5 hours to remove belt pieces from pulley grooves and shafts, the good news is I *might* have caught it before catastrophic damage. I did find some belt chunks wrapped on the inside of the crank shaft pulley, but does anyone have a semi-expert opinion on whether this seal is still good? Maybe I just need to drive it and see if it leaks...



Obligatory, sad pic of my former belt:

Last edited by mr_malvo; 05-26-2018 at 02:52 PM.
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      05-27-2018, 01:22 PM   #32
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Given what a significant job this is and the expensive special tools needed, you might want to try either running it for a minute or two without the belt to see if there are any leaks or putting it all back and checking often. The belt failures are supposedly caused in the main by oil leaking from the oil filter housing gasket at the top of the engine, down onto the belt. I suspect a leak from the seal will not get oil on the belt, so it is not so dangerous to run the motor with the belt in, IMO, and check for leaks. Also, it will not add much extra work (removing belt and draining oil), if you indeed find a leak and have to go back and replace the seal.
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      05-27-2018, 01:59 PM   #33
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Yeah I was a bit concerned about the oil still visible on the seal, but there was so much oil in the bay being thrown around that that could be from the outside and not slipping past the seal. I know the picture angle isn't great either, but it was pretty tough to light it well for a pic. Wait and see maybe?

As far as the OFH, I still don't know where it's leaking which is the bigger problem I need to solve first. It looks like maybe near the front lower bolt, but not quite sure. I replaced both gaskets and cleaned the block/mating surface meticulously, as well as putting a bit of sealant in the minor pitting I saw on the block. Didnt seem to fix it

I know many have had the damn thing leak immediately after replacing it - any advice on how people finally got it to seal up? My only options at this point are to retorque the bolts or to redo the job.

@mrpriceisright, that's my thinking exactly. No harm not doing it now and can easily go back if I need to. Might save myself $ and labor too.
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      05-27-2018, 10:20 PM   #34
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Given that you already replaced both oil cooler gasket and OFHG, maybe check the aluminum housings themselves. Could be cracked. Also, there's a coolant hose that goes to the Oil cooler housing. The plastic fitting at the end of the hose goes bad, like it happened to mine, and cause extra leaks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by naeshy View Post
Yeah I was a bit concerned about the oil still visible on the seal, but there was so much oil in the bay being thrown around that that could be from the outside and not slipping past the seal. I know the picture angle isn't great either, but it was pretty tough to light it well for a pic. Wait and see maybe?

As far as the OFH, I still don't know where it's leaking which is the bigger problem I need to solve first. It looks like maybe near the front lower bolt, but not quite sure. I replaced both gaskets and cleaned the block/mating surface meticulously, as well as putting a bit of sealant in the minor pitting I saw on the block. Didnt seem to fix it

I know many have had the damn thing leak immediately after replacing it - any advice on how people finally got it to seal up? My only options at this point are to retorque the bolts or to redo the job.

@mrpriceisright, that's my thinking exactly. No harm not doing it now and can easily go back if I need to. Might save myself $ and labor too.
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      05-28-2018, 10:32 AM   #35
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When you say housings do you mean the full body of the OFH and the mating surfaces? Unless it cracked after I installed the new gasket I *think* those are good.

The hose you're talking about is just for coolant though, correct? (I assume you mean the hose that comes in from the right into the oil cooler section) What's the connection between that leaking and an oil leak?

Really appreciate the assistance!

Edit:
I should also say that I think I *might* have over-torqued the cooler bracket bolt and bent that bracket. I did replace those o-rings and I haven't noticed any oil leaking from there, but I think I did bend that thing.

Last edited by naeshy; 05-28-2018 at 10:41 AM. Reason: Adding content
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      05-28-2018, 01:44 PM   #36
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Yes, I was referring to the actual body. And yes, the hose I was referring to is a coolant hose. When I did my gaskets there was a little bit of coolant mixing and that hose was almost leaking - it would be coolant but worth checking.

Also, the two oil lines that go on the bottom of the cooler housing also have o-rings that seems like you already replaced. If not then check there.

The vanos solenoids are also in that vicinity and have o-rings that seal oil. Worth checking.

Finally there's the power steering lines and reservoir also in that vicinity. Check the cap and the lines to make sure it is all good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by naeshy View Post
When you say housings do you mean the full body of the OFH and the mating surfaces? Unless it cracked after I installed the new gasket I *think* those are good.

The hose you're talking about is just for coolant though, correct? (I assume you mean the hose that comes in from the right into the oil cooler section) What's the connection between that leaking and an oil leak?

Really appreciate the assistance!

Edit:
I should also say that I think I *might* have over-torqued the cooler bracket bolt and bent that bracket. I did replace those o-rings and I haven't noticed any oil leaking from there, but I think I did bend that thing.
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      05-28-2018, 05:14 PM   #37
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Mr malvo I would also like to inquire about renting your seal kit if possible. Thanks
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      05-28-2018, 08:54 PM   #38
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I have been in the process of doing this on an N52 engine for the last few days. Bought the removal/installation tool, still took 5 tries to get the seal off with the tool - but couldnt imagine doing it without. I was also in the process of removing the chain guides and hence the main crank bolt, which needed to be reinstalled before replacing the seal.

As someone else mentioned, the loctite 5970 shows as BMW 83190404517 for use on mini and m4 differentials. Loctite do specify it for use as a flange sealant though, seeing how small the two side slots are, I'm not that surprised it works in this application.

For anyone who orders the official and expensive 83197536051 / Loctite 193140 (I had already ordered it and the primer), thought I would mention: it comes in a 6ml syringe type package, BUT without the needle or plunger. Only a few web sites mention the need for the needle (part 83192345991) and none mention the plunger. I am now stuck at the weekend and unable to install the seal until I get that part. be warned. After doing some research I believe but have yet to confirm the piston is part number 83197515684 (they call it a 'stamp'). May be able to mcgyver the piston but not the needle. Strange that an expensive syringe applicator would be sold without the means of application!
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      05-30-2018, 07:33 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpriceisright View Post
I have been in the process of doing this on an N52 engine for the last few days. Bought the removal/installation tool, still took 5 tries to get the seal off with the tool - but couldnt imagine doing it without. I was also in the process of removing the chain guides and hence the main crank bolt, which needed to be reinstalled before replacing the seal.

As someone else mentioned, the loctite 5970 shows as BMW 83190404517 for use on mini and m4 differentials. Loctite do specify it for use as a flange sealant though, seeing how small the two side slots are, I'm not that surprised it works in this application.

For anyone who orders the official and expensive 83197536051 / Loctite 193140 (I had already ordered it and the primer), thought I would mention: it comes in a 6ml syringe type package, BUT without the needle or plunger. Only a few web sites mention the need for the needle (part 83192345991) and none mention the plunger. I am now stuck at the weekend and unable to install the seal until I get that part. be warned. After doing some research I believe but have yet to confirm the piston is part number 83197515684 (they call it a 'stamp'). May be able to mcgyver the piston but not the needle. Strange that an expensive syringe applicator would be sold without the means of application!
I wish there were a DIY for the rear crank shaft seal... aka RMS (rear main seal). Any takers ?

I didn't read through the whole post yet, I hope you put in upgraded engine mounts from stock, which is likely the culprit of the belt being sucked into the crank as it hit the subframe.
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      06-10-2018, 11:49 AM   #40
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Is anyone renting the tool for this as my belt just shredded to
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      06-10-2018, 11:52 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_malvo View Post
***EDIT**
After closer look the right top and right middle parts of your seal look damaged. Is that just the picture angle? can't tell. Anyways, doesn't seem like belt pieces went in there.

You mentioned oil leaks after replacing the OFHG, did you identified the source of the leak?


************************************************** **********************
Pictures finally showed. Your seal does not look compromised. That some good news!







Can you email me at jldquarterhorses@gmail.com Iím in South Carolina and would be interested in renting the tool
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      06-13-2018, 09:06 PM   #42
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I have the tool I will rent out as well to do this job
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      06-19-2018, 08:59 PM   #43
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Not an N54 but I have an oil leak on my N52. Pretty sure itís the front crank oil seal as the top of the engine is dry but the bottom is full of oil and all over the belt. Once I confirm the leak I will need to source the tools to do it.

I see guys renting these out. I would be happy to do that (if itís reasonable) I am surprised guys donít buy and resell these for like $150 and just keep rolling
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