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HELP 2006 325i (auto) jerking in P,N and D in low RPM
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03-13-2012, 06:34 PM | #1 |
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HELP 2006 325i (auto) jerking in P,N and D in low RPM
So my car's almost 6 yrs old and it's beginning to have this PIA problem....
I drive a 2006 325i with about 95000km. The problem started with a fried starter... The car took a long time to crank and eventually gave in. Took it to an indy and had the starter swapped. Good as new. Now, another problem was jerking/knocking noise from the engine at Parking, Neutral as well as in Drive at low rpms. The rpm needle would wiggle at around 500~700 while these symptoms occur... The most noticeable is when I come at a red light and in D, foot on brake. The engine would splutter, vibrate and even shake a bit. The yellow service engine light is also on... Having read some of the previous threads with similar symptoms, I changed all 6 spark plugs and 6 ignition coils. The car def. runs better, but the jerking problem still persists. It is def. less common after the spark plug/coil change, but it still happens when I put the car in neutral at a red light and sometimes in D at low rpms. Could this be a vanos issue? I'm planning on cleaning my vanos solenoids and swapping the intake and exhaust ones just to see if it relieves the problem. Also, what's the best way to clean the vanos solenoids? Some people say clean w/ carb cleaner + shop air. I've even seen a member who used dipping it in brake fluids?? Any help would be much appreciated! Last edited by mh666; 03-13-2012 at 06:40 PM.. |
03-13-2012, 11:36 PM | #2 |
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i wouldnt take the risk anymore and bring to a deal or mechanic if no dealer locally a visit now may be cheaper then when the engine goes!
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03-14-2012, 09:17 AM | #3 |
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Have you scanned for codes yet? If it is a Vanos issue you should have a code stored in the ECU.
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03-14-2012, 01:12 PM | #6 | |
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MPG would be horrible, but the engine would still be running. The ECU sends more gas then needed when the MAF gives values out of the bracket. So I would vote for the fuel pump since it sounds like the engine is not getting enough.
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03-14-2012, 01:35 PM | #7 |
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you are probably right Maximus, but I always like to rule out the cheap and easy stuff before turning to the expensive options, lol.
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03-14-2012, 02:10 PM | #8 |
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Fair enough We think alike.
My indy shop tested a lot of components in a breeze at my last visit. Dont know how they did it but they did. Starter, alternator, battery charge and both water and fuel pumps were tested in maybe 5 minutes? Tops. So It wouldnt cost much to just have them tested. And while you're at it, read those codes so we know more about the issue.
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03-14-2012, 02:12 PM | #9 |
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OP : Your car is behaving because you never installed the exhaust I sold ya
Just kidding.
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03-19-2012, 12:15 AM | #10 | |||
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Lol. I think so, too. damn. |
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03-19-2012, 12:25 AM | #11 |
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Also, forgot to mention that when idling, rpm sharply fluctuates at around 550~650 range. Is this normal?? Because it seems that when the rpm is approaching 500, the engine sputters and shakes and revs up itself to go back up....
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03-19-2012, 12:52 PM | #12 |
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well, it sounds like your car is running overly rich.. those things can be caused by a bad oxygen sensor, or a bad MAF sensor. Kinda hard to tell without reading the codes though. It could also be the fuel pump, but it would be nice to know for sure before you start throwing money at it.
are there any independent BMW shops in your area? If there is, they might be able to scan the codes for you. |
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03-19-2012, 03:05 PM | #13 | |
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Pirate and proud. |
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03-20-2012, 01:15 PM | #14 | |
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http://www.peakeresearch.com/fcx3.htm If that is to much then you probably should not have bought a BMW. Just sayin....
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03-20-2012, 04:14 PM | #15 | |
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I'm just considering different options as to which code reading device I should get. Some members have said good things about this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-USB-OBD-...ht_2855wt_1270 How was your experience with the R5-FCX?? EDIT: I've actually found some very positive reviews of the peake product... i think im going with this route. Thanks! Last edited by mh666; 03-20-2012 at 04:35 PM.. |
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03-20-2012, 05:18 PM | #16 |
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if you have a windows laptop, you can get a usb-obd2 cable and install INPA (bmw diagnostic software). I have this and it allows me to read and clear codes. You can also program with it, but I haven't gotten into that. Check the coding forum for more info.
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03-20-2012, 06:07 PM | #17 |
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Yeah that's exactly what I was looking into. My buddy has a obd2 cable and i'm going to try and install INPA. I've found some links where I can download the software but they seem rather broken into pieces. I guess it's a matter of time of getting the software to work... Thanks for the suggestion.
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03-21-2012, 09:52 AM | #18 |
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BT Cable; never scanned and cleared codes that easily. And it does a lot of other things.
Never tried the other ones tho.
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03-26-2012, 07:50 AM | #20 |
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i had something similar but only when car was cold and you drive right away before engine revs settle down a bit. definatley none of the issues you're having.
does your car behave this way when cold and warm? 14-15l is what I get too but in very short driving cycle. on highway it's around 6.7-7l/100. Now that you posted this, I'm getting to worried my fuel pump or vanos is stuffed. my car is 2007 but only has 34000 km. So milage is nowhere near as yours.
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03-27-2012, 04:47 PM | #21 | |
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03-28-2012, 02:58 AM | #22 | |
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jerking, vanos, vanos solenoid |
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