[M3E46M]

I had a hard time adjusting clamps on my FMIC and if they didn't adjust them, most likely your clamps are either not tight enough or not aligned symmetrically causing boost leak. Check the FMIC silicone hoses and clamps. NO WOT until you figure out where the leak is.

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by labedra

I had a hard time adjusting clamps on my FMIC and if they didn't adjust them, most likely your clamps are either not tight enough or not aligned symmetrically causing boost leak. Check the FMIC silicone hoses and clamps. NO WOT until you figure out where the leak is.

See I had a dealer do it so I'm guessing I need to go back to them although I guess if I cleared everything they won't see that its thrown a code.

Oh my first code right after install without even driving was P2ee6, my google search at the time of WOT was "pre control boost leak"

I did two logs and here they are attached.

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

pretty standard for Stock FMIC. Heat-soak very quickly, which could also be the cause of his minor timing corrections.

I agree. Once I upgraded the intercooler the timing went away. I even went with a more aggressive map with no timing correction. Now I need to dial in more power. FMIC does wonder on these cars.

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

Guys had a new FMIC put on the car and today when attempting first WOT after getting the cobb on I got a poof noise and then the engine malfunction light and the code read something about boost control leak (I cleared the codes trying to see if they'd return... They didn't so I didn't grab the code number) I also had a code about coolant levels measuring ( I did save that code on my iphone, but its in the house as I'm flashing back to stock at the moment) These are both new issues as I'd been running stage 1 aggressive fine without a hitch

Could I have picked the wrong stage 1 FMIC map (their were like 3 sport ones)?

Power seemed fine after the engine light (not that I attempted a WOT) I did manage to be logging when it happened right now I'm flashing back to stock.

Is it advised to go WOT again/ try for a recreate or just go right to an indy/dealer?

Not exactly a great start into FBO mods.

Originally Posted by labedra

I had a hard time adjusting clamps on my FMIC and if they didn't adjust them, most likely your clamps are either not tight enough or not aligned symmetrically causing boost leak. Check the FMIC silicone hoses and clamps. NO WOT until you figure out where the leak is.

+100.
This is what probably happened

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by AltecBX

+100.
This is what probably happened

P30FF after looking around this is what I'm 97% sure my code was.

Guess its going back to the shop... Sigh

[M3E46M]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

See I had a dealer do it so I'm guessing I need to go back to them although I guess if I cleared everything they won't see that its thrown a code.

Oh my first code right after install without even driving was P2ee6, my google search at the time of WOT was "pre control boost leak"

I did two logs and here they are attached.

Thanks for posting the logs and YES you have a boost leak. Just couple of logs reveal that requested boost and actual boost in manifold.

This is from your WOT:

Req. Boost Abs. (PSI) / Boost Mean Abs (PSI)

27.13 18.84
27.27 19.51
26.96 20.33
27.57 21.27
27.91 22.41
28.39 23.75
28.37 25.4
28.56 27.28
29 29.64
29.54 31.48
30.03 32.15
30.46 31.72
31.16 25.28
28.97 22.92
28.52 24.69
28.14 25.55
28.25 25.95
28.44 26.26
28.47 26.3
28.54 26.22

under WOT this shouldn't be different more then +/- 0.99 difference, if you hit +/- 1.0 i think you get a CODE. Definitely a boost leak from what I learned so far. Also looking at

Load Requested (load) Actual Load (load)
183.9 120.9

+/- 50 points will throw a code.

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by labedra

Thanks for posting the logs and YES you have a boost leak. Just couple of logs reveal that requested boost and actual boost in manifold.

This is from your WOT:

Req. Boost Abs. (PSI) / Boost Mean Abs (PSI)

27.13 18.84
27.27 19.51
26.96 20.33
27.57 21.27
27.91 22.41
28.39 23.75
28.37 25.4
28.56 27.28
29 29.64
29.54 31.48
30.03 32.15
30.46 31.72
31.16 25.28
28.97 22.92
28.52 24.69
28.14 25.55
28.25 25.95
28.44 26.26
28.47 26.3
28.54 26.22

under WOT this shouldn't be different more then +/- 0.99 difference, if you hit +/- 1.0 you get a CODE. Definitely a boost leak from what I learned so far.

Ok so its for sure the FMIC installation? Would the dealer be able to ID this on a stock setup?

Also I'm now throwing a code that says "code missing" even after being fully uninstalled do I need to install a map and then uninstall again...

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

P30FF after looking around this is what I'm 97% sure my code was.

Guess its going back to the shop... Sigh

Yea, that's hardware related which i'm pretty sure the clamps wasn't tighten enough to the hoses.

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by AltecBX

Yea, that's hardware related which i'm pretty sure the clamps wasn't tighten enough to the hoses.

Thank god you guys know so much

I'm still at some point going to have to go WOT again to make sure its tight a moment I'm now dreading... Is this something only cobb will be able to reproduce, or if they push stock settings hard enough they'll find it?

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

Thank god you guys know so much

I'm still at some point going to have to go WOT again to make sure its tight a moment I'm now dreading... Is this something only cobb will be able to reproduce, or if they push stock settings hard enough they'll find it?

Don't go wide open throttle. You won't have enough air to feed the the combustion chamber where air and fuel meets and while you have a more aggressive mapping than stock, it will misfire and get other codes.
Look with a flash light on the right hand side and if you can take the undercarriage cover off and check the claps in the bottom end where the intercooler ends.

[M3E46M]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

Thank god you guys know so much

I'm still at some point going to have to go WOT again to make sure its tight a moment I'm now dreading... Is this something only cobb will be able to reproduce, or if they push stock settings hard enough they'll find it?

I viewed you'r second log and you are not under boost, no WOT in there. There is only one way to find out, or fix the clamps your self.

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by AltecBX

Don't go wide open throttle. You won't have enough air to feed the the combustion chamber where air and fuel meets and while you have a more aggressive mapping than stock, it will misfire and get other codes.
Look with a flash light on the right hand side and if you can take the undercarriage cover off and check the claps in the bottom end where the intercooler ends.

lol scare me even more why don't ya. I'll have them do it, I paid enough for it... Appreciate you guys knowing so much.

I couldn't be more disillusioned after starting FBO.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

I couldn't be more disillusioned after starting FBO.

Only one way to know it is done right and that is to do it yourself.

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

Only one way to know it is done right and that is to do it yourself.

Then it would never get done

[M3E46M]

I never see more NEGATIVE boost/Vacum then -0.48 in the logs. Anyone know why? I'm using this map: Stg1+FMIC ST Sport IJE0S v402 Stock Throttle

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by AltecBX

Don't go wide open throttle. You won't have enough air to feed the the combustion chamber where air and fuel meets and while you have a more aggressive mapping than stock, it will misfire and get other codes.
Look with a flash light on the right hand side and if you can take the undercarriage cover off and check the claps in the bottom end where the intercooler ends.

Because my confidence is somewhat shaken now, how would you advise me to test the car once they say its fixed, because honestly if they fix it in a few hours/ day I'll be worried to go WOT.

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

Because my confidence is somewhat shaken now, how would you advise me to test the car once they say its fixed, because honestly if they fix it in a few hours/ day I'll be worried to go WOT.

You're absolutely fine to go WOT. The DME is 100% closed loop. If anything is wrong it will compensate for it or throw a boost leak code/limp if necessary. The only way to test it is to hammer on it and see if it holds boost.

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

Because my confidence is somewhat shaken now, how would you advise me to test the car once they say its fixed, because honestly if they fix it in a few hours/ day I'll be worried to go WOT.

Have them take pictures of their work after completion. If its secured right, then floor it on the open road making sure it holds boost. Log whenever possible to make sure.

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by Ænema

You're absolutely fine to go WOT. The DME is 100% closed loop. If anything is wrong it will compensate for it or throw a boost leak code/limp if necessary. The only way to test it is to hammer on it and see if it holds boost.

So I'm guessing this problem should be present going WOT stock too? I just want my cobb back kicking ass lmao I don't care if they duct tape that bad boy just let me whip other cars.

[Drakos]

Well, I finally bit the bullet and got myself a Cobb from Mike at N54Tuning. I have been absent from the forums for a while and just getting back into tuning options again. I am transitioning from a JB3 and was contemplating getting a JB4 but wanted to try something new. The feedback on the Cobb has been overwhelming. I just want some feedback on which settings and map I should be trying when I do my install. I read up a little on the difference between stock and linear throttle and am still undecided. I drove on JB3 map 5 as my daily map. I fill up with Husky 94 octane. Here is a list of some of my mods:

AR Catless DP
Helix FMIC
BMW Performance Exhaust
BMS DCI
Forge DV's
Evolution Racewerks Charge Pipe

Thanks so much for the suggestions in advance. I'm pretty excited to get this installed

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by Drakos

Well, I finally bit the bullet and got myself a Cobb from Mike at N54Tuning. I have been absent from the forums for a while and just getting back into tuning options again. I am transitioning from a JB3 and was contemplating getting a JB4 but wanted to try something new. The feedback on the Cobb has been overwhelming. I just want some feedback on which settings and map I should be trying when I do my install. I read up a little on the difference between stock and linear throttle and am still undecided. I drove on JB3 map 5 as my daily map. I fill up with Husky 94 octane. Here is a list of some of my mods:

AR Catless DP
Helix FMIC
BMW Performance Exhaust
BMS DCI
Forge DV's
Evolution Racewerks Charge Pipe

Thanks so much for the suggestions in advance. I'm pretty excited to get this installed

The boys here had me do a few logs on stage 1 good solid advice for catching any problems before going straight to hardcore. Its been so long since I've had my cobb I'm forgetting what its like

[Drakos]

OK, great to know. I will do some runs and try to figure out how to data log, lol. Thanks.