[Frosty]

Originally Posted by robc1976

I am going to clean the valves tonight and want to see what #2 port looks like. Unplugg your battery for 1-2 hrs and it will reset the adaptions.....I also do the throttle reset to, it does work.

How do you do the throttle reset? I have a BT tool....

~Frost

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by Frosty

...blackened plug... that's indicative of a bad-acting FI?

My car (in sig) is at 128,000+ miles (all driven by me ha ha)

no warranty wants to touch me now

~Frost

Usally if it is just 1 plug that is black instead of the entire bank I would lean toward a injector, coil.

[E92ML]

Anyone have updates on this problem? My car has the exact same symptoms and the loss of engine power symbol appears on the dash. All happened after I sent my car into the dealer for the HPFP recall. The car will occasionally idle very rough fluctuating between 500 and 1000 RPM's and then die if it isn't put into gear and given gas immediately. I'm throwing codes 2CF6 and 2CF7 (throttle valve potentiometer with possibility to mass air).

I've heard others having the same problems after getting their car serviced. I'm still trying to fix the problem. I'll be checking the O2 sensors this weekend, hopefully that fixes the problem.

[hasta la pasta 27]

Originally Posted by robc1976

Idle is perfect!! I had a stuck open injector and they replaced it and it purrs like a kitten....well......growl like a tiger gas smell is gone, stumble/jolt in idle is gone, stumbling/ long start with sputtering is gone, slight rattle after starting is gone (thought it was the waste gates). Horse power is crazy now instead of falling on its face.

Hope ths helps!! It didn't help the 5.0 mustang I schooled lol!!

Sounds like i have something similar to you. I have been smelling gas lately and thats when the rough idle started. Getting ready to do valve cleaning and plugs this weekend along with clean all my sensors. I will post back to see how that goes, if not then i will do some resets. If all else fails, the car is going to Active Autowerkes then to warranty because this B.S. for a $50k car.

[jeffro535]

Add me to this list. same exact symptoms as the OP. Bought the car with 22k miles on it, it's just shy of 30k right now. What's been done (in order) Reset adaptations, walnut shelled the intake valves, changed low pressure fuel transmitter, replaced crankcase breather valve, hpfp, replaced all 6 injectors and plugs, raised the idle speed 50 rpm. It's better, not perfect, but ok. But have to concur that it is worse in wet/ humid conditions. what was weird is the throttle response of the motor was pretty variable during all this. It has the PPK1 installed so it's normally right there when you hit the throttle. But at times it would respond like a ford focus-hit the gas and waaaait, oh there it is. Would also agree that it takes about 500 miles for everything to settle down. After the injector/plug/idle speed raise, it seemed to hunt down the idle speed and the response was semi-sluggish. Now, it goes right to 650-700 every time and the response is very quick. I'm glad I'm not the only one going through this, but concerned that the problem is so widespread. I know BMWNA knows about my car, since they assisted the tech in the injector analysis, but I wonder if they realize the scope of the issue. And how many owners just think that's the way it's supposed to run?

[bv1]

Originally Posted by jeffro535

Add me to this list. same exact symptoms as the OP. Bought the car with 22k miles on it, it's just shy of 30k right now. What's been done (in order) Reset adaptations, walnut shelled the intake valves, changed low pressure fuel transmitter, replaced crankcase breather valve, hpfp, replaced all 6 injectors and plugs, raised the idle speed 50 rpm. It's better, not perfect, but ok. But have to concur that it is worse in wet/ humid conditions. what was weird is the throttle response of the motor was pretty variable during all this. It has the PPK1 installed so it's normally right there when you hit the throttle. But at times it would respond like a ford focus-hit the gas and waaaait, oh there it is. Would also agree that it takes about 500 miles for everything to settle down. After the injector/plug/idle speed raise, it seemed to hunt down the idle speed and the response was semi-sluggish. Now, it goes right to 650-700 every time and the response is very quick. I'm glad I'm not the only one going through this, but concerned that the problem is so widespread. I know BMWNA knows about my car, since they assisted the tech in the injector analysis, but I wonder if they realize the scope of the issue. And how many owners just think that's the way it's supposed to run?

If you haven't already pull out and clean both TMAP sensors.

[jeffro535]

Will do..hadn't thought of that, thanks.

[jeffro535]

Update: Went on a 600 mile road trip this past weekend, had the opportunity to push the car pretty hard the whole way and the rough idle is now gone. Typical BMW, the harder you drive it, the better it runs. Thought you'd think a walnut shell, hpfp, crankcase breather valve, new injectors and plugs would have done something

[aw3964]

Can't believe I just read 9 pages

anyways, it was stated earlier (sorta). The only thing that fixed my sputter was programming it to idle higher (raise the a/c idle speed too).

I still see the rpm fluctuate, but the vibrations and rough idle feelings are 100% gone!

While speaking to the tech about this, I mentioned if we are only masking the symptoms. I liked his response though: we've done everything else and this issue isn't harming or doing any damage; it's just rpm play. so if raising the idle speed helps, why not do it?

[AWD Addict]

Originally Posted by ericruiz911

Sounds like i have something similar to you. I have been smelling gas lately and thats when the rough idle started. Getting ready to do valve cleaning and plugs this weekend along with clean all my sensors. I will post back to see how that goes, if not then i will do some resets. If all else fails, the car is going to Active Autowerkes then to warranty because this B.S. for a $50k car.

Your issue sounds like a bad/leaking injector, which isn't terribly uncommon. That is not the same as the stumble issue from the OP.

[AWD Addict]

Originally Posted by E92ML

Anyone have updates on this problem? My car has the exact same symptoms and the loss of engine power symbol appears on the dash. All happened after I sent my car into the dealer for the HPFP recall. The car will occasionally idle very rough fluctuating between 500 and 1000 RPM's and then die if it isn't put into gear and given gas immediately. I'm throwing codes 2CF6 and 2CF7 (throttle valve potentiometer with possibility to mass air).

I've heard others having the same problems after getting their car serviced. I'm still trying to fix the problem. I'll be checking the O2 sensors this weekend, hopefully that fixes the problem.

Your issue is not hte same as the OP issue, which doesn't throw any codes. Take your car to the dealer or a BMW tech that can appropriately diagnose your problem.

For the record, my issue is still occurring, with no codes every being thrown. I've also replaced a substnatial part of the PCV system and vac lines which were failing a smoke test, and will be doing another section of it (the last I think), in the coming weeks. At this point, I've tried so many things, I'm not sure what the heck is causing it.

[Amin335i]

I recently purchased a 335i and experiencing the same problem not a good start. When I purchased the car I noticed there was a very and I mean very mild hiccup or maybe a misfire at idle. The idle didn't seem to raise or anything and there was no power loss. No lights, codes etc. A couple of weeks after I bought it, I decided to service it myself before the next official service scheduled. As I am sure most of you would agree, the service intervals recommended by the computer are just ridiculous. Anyway, I changed oil and filter, changed the air filter, sprayed some carb cleaner in the intake while engine was running warm, changed power steering fluid, and finally changed the SPARK PLUGS the day after as the engine needed to cool down. The plugs I bought were BOSCH plugs. I found the exact model number of the bosch plugs from realoem.com and then hunted for them online. I purchased them from a reputable website and not only the plugs matched the same code, but it was also listed for N54 engines 135i and 335i. The plugs looked exactly the same as the ones I took out, except they didnt have BMW written on them. When I did the oil change I spilt some oil around the oil cap and the oil found its way to the spark plugs holes on cylinders 3 and 4. Funny enough, I did not notice any negative effects the night after the oil change. I took it for a hard drive after servicing it and it ran fine that night. The following morning I changed the plugs (torqued to 28nm the lowest setting on my torque wrench) and spent a good while cleaning the split oil from coils and plug hole. Since the spark plug change the hiccups are much more profound and they happen more frequently. It is also moving the rpm from 600rpm to just over 700rpm and stays there until I restart the car. The rpm increase never happened prior to changing the plugs and the hiccup/misfire was not as profound. After reading all the posts, I am confident it is related to the plugs/coils. I purchased a BMW diagnostic cable and have managed to get all official BMW softwares running, GT1 DIS INPA PROGMAN etc... INPA seems to be the most useful. Does anyone have any suggestion on what I should look for/monitor on the live data from INPA software? any solutions so far?

[jason335777]

I'm still having the issue too, long after new plugs. I had it into two different BMWs at a $125 cost each time and they could not find a problem. Its definitely misfiring at idle, and usually simmers down once the car is warmed up. My rpms hang high too.

[andy92782]

Originally Posted by andy92782

Add me to the list...

I actually made this video over a year ago. At the time, my car was running on the original HPFP and injectors but it was on its 2nd set of plugs.

My car is an automatic. When the transmission is in gear, the idle stays low. If I put it in Park (where there's less load on it), then what you see in the video will probably occur. Note: the engine needs to be warmed up for this to happen. I currently have 64K miles.

Also, since I took this video, my car has developed a problem where it will stumble on a cold start after firing up but then immediately run smoothly. This started happening about ~5K miles after the HPFP was replaced under the recall. Note: My car has a 12/06 build date and wasn't eligible for the injector recall. All injectors are original.

For the most part, the car still runs fine, although it doesn't seem to rev quite as smoothly. It's hard to describe but there's a slight vibration when at lower RPM and high engine load. I've got a JB4 on it but most of the time I run it in bypass mode; I'm a little nervous cranking the boost up with these weird symptoms going on; I don't want to risk one of the cylinders leaning out.

It sucks that there doesn't seem to be any one smoking gun that could cause all this stuff... Gunked up intake valves? Injectors? HPFP? $$$$$$$$$$$ cha-ching... good thing my neighbor is an independent BMW mechanic

It's been a while since I've looked at this but I'm happy to report that this issue has been resolved with my car. All six plugs were replaced along with one injector. My car has NEVER had a walnut shell carbon clean. The dealer was able to detect misfires in the engine that followed the plugs around when swapped; they replaced all six and verified that the misfires were gone. They then removed the plugs one more time and detected fresh gasoline on one of them; that particular cylinder's injector was leaky and so it was replaced. Everything's been running fine for the past month or so on these repairs. I have about 72K on the odometer.

I'm told that these engines are VERY sensitive to the plugs and the plug gap. If the tech who replaces the plugs is even remotely careless and accidentally touches/bangs the business end of the plug against the threads when inserting them, that alone may be enough to mess them up and cause potential misfires.

The other thing to note is that prior to having the dealer investigate, I had a local BMW independent repair shop take a look and they weren't able to resolve it. They couldn't detect misfires/codes but the dealer could, so the dealer must have some special diagnostic equipment that's not available to an independent shop....which is unfortunate. I finally broke down and went to the dealer when they advertised a 20% off service coupon!

[Jeohn]

About a month ago I had a misfire on cylinder 1. Read the codes, had a cover manipulation code (JB4) and a 29CD. Cleared codes, dropped it off at the dealer and they said there was nothing wrong but took my money anyways.

In the last 5 days:

I am getting misfires on cylinder 1,2,3 when it is below 40 degrees. SES is lit and I have 4 trouble codes

29CD Misfirings, cylinder 1
29CF Misfirings, cylinder 3
29CC Misfirings, several cylinders
29CE Misfirings, cylinder 2

I had my HPFP replaced in June of 2011 at 50k miles.
I had 2 injectors replaced and 4 adjusted and my ECU updated
I have not had an issue with the fuel systems since June of 2011.

If the car sits over night I have misfires when it is below 40 degrees or so. After I turn the car off and back on the misfires seem subside. But the SES is still lit.

I clear the codes, drive on and off and I have no SES light until the next morning after the car has sat. Again this only happens when its cold

I have not changes spark plugs since 50k miles and I have never swapped out coils but 3 misfires all at the same time seems odd.

Logically the injectors don't make sense unless a rubber seal is contracting in the cold weather and leaking fuel into 3 different cylinders. Does the cold affect Injectors?

Sparks plugs might make sense if they are sensitive to the cold after wear but wouldn't I be seeing this on all cylinders?

Coils shouldn't be effected by the cold either but I might be way our in left field with my thinking.

Please please please correct me if I am wrong. I am stuck out of town and need all the help I can get.

Car has 84k on it

Mods are a follows:
All installed at 45k miles

Injen Dual Cone Intake
JB4 with usb cable
Burger Motorsports Black Decal on lower front bumper

[masghar]

I had the same problem for past few days and I just opened all the coils and put silicone (avail at advanced auto in small pouches) at the boot ends and installed them back. No more rough idling and loss of power.

[Jeohn]

I replaced the plugs after unsuccessfully finding a socket (in laws own a machine shop, so machined a 14mm 12 point deep craftsman socket to fit)

After replacing the spark plugs I no longer have misfire's that the ECU detects but I can still hear a misfire and feel the vibration from the engine as it misfires.

Again this is only when the car is cold. After running for roughly 10 minutes at Idle everything feels normal again

Any ideas my friends?

[E92 M Sport]

Originally Posted by Jeohn

I replaced the plugs after unsuccessfully finding a socket (in laws own a machine shop, so machined a 14mm 12 point deep craftsman socket to fit)

After replacing the spark plugs I no longer have misfire's that the ECU detects but I can still hear a misfire and feel the vibration from the engine as it misfires.

Again this is only when the car is cold. After running for roughly 10 minutes at Idle everything feels normal again

Any ideas my friends?

Dealer replaced 3 injectors (bank 1) a few months back for me and solved the problem. Mine didn't idle rough for 10 minutes, only a minute or two, and only when cold temps arrived.

[AWD Addict]

Originally Posted by Jeohn

About a month ago I had a misfire on cylinder 1. Read the codes, had a cover manipulation code (JB4) and a 29CD. Cleared codes, dropped it off at the dealer and they said there was nothing wrong but took my money anyways.

In the last 5 days:

I am getting misfires on cylinder 1,2,3 when it is below 40 degrees. SES is lit and I have 4 trouble codes

29CD Misfirings, cylinder 1
29CF Misfirings, cylinder 3
29CC Misfirings, several cylinders
29CE Misfirings, cylinder 2

I had my HPFP replaced in June of 2011 at 50k miles.
I had 2 injectors replaced and 4 adjusted and my ECU updated
I have not had an issue with the fuel systems since June of 2011.

If the car sits over night I have misfires when it is below 40 degrees or so. After I turn the car off and back on the misfires seem subside. But the SES is still lit.

I clear the codes, drive on and off and I have no SES light until the next morning after the car has sat. Again this only happens when its cold

I have not changes spark plugs since 50k miles and I have never swapped out coils but 3 misfires all at the same time seems odd.

Logically the injectors don't make sense unless a rubber seal is contracting in the cold weather and leaking fuel into 3 different cylinders. Does the cold affect Injectors?

Sparks plugs might make sense if they are sensitive to the cold after wear but wouldn't I be seeing this on all cylinders?

Coils shouldn't be effected by the cold either but I might be way our in left field with my thinking.

Please please please correct me if I am wrong. I am stuck out of town and need all the help I can get.

Car has 84k on it

Mods are a follows:
All installed at 45k miles

Injen Dual Cone Intake
JB4 with usb cable
Burger Motorsports Black Decal on lower front bumper

It's your injectors. Take a look at the plugs while your cover is off.

[SDSUDons]

AWD Addict, any luck? I've had mine in the shop so many times and gotten the same, "we cant find anything wrong" except I KNOW something is wrong. Started right when I changed the plugs. I used to wrench on cars myself at a hot rod shop, and between that and driving the car every day, I know when something is wrong. I read the whole forum and noticed that it seems everyone has tried something that would logically make sense, but to no avail. Something to add, I noticed a slight lack of power while driving, at all speeds. Also, the gas mileage seems to have taken a noticeable hit. I was averaging around 450 miles per tank, and now I am getting about 300 since the spark plug change/random rough idle. You notice that? LOVE the fact that it doesnt throw codes either.

Side note, I have been recording data for the rough idle and comparing it to the normal idle. I am going to have a few trusted mechanics around town look at it as well and see if they can wrap their heads around it. Let me know if you have any updates. Thanks!

[joec500]

Originally Posted by E92ML

Anyone have updates on this problem? My car has the exact same symptoms and the loss of engine power symbol appears on the dash. All happened after I sent my car into the dealer for the HPFP recall. The car will occasionally idle very rough fluctuating between 500 and 1000 RPM's and then die if it isn't put into gear and given gas immediately. I'm throwing codes 2CF6 and 2CF7 (throttle valve potentiometer with possibility to mass air).

I've heard others having the same problems after getting their car serviced. I'm still trying to fix the problem. I'll be checking the O2 sensors this weekend, hopefully that fixes the problem.

I had this same issue, I replaced the throttlebody. Easy swap, and the part is approx $300 from the dealer.

[BillionPa]

Background:
I have had this issue since the HPFP recall, but it has never gotten close to stalling, just rough idle 600 to 700rpm
5 injectors were replaced under recall at the same time.
No change in fuel econ.

Spark plugs were changed recently, NO CHANGE AT ALL, not worse or better


question for those of you that had this problem after plugs were replaced:

if you replaced the plugs yourself, did you use dielectric grease on the coil terminal prior to reinstalling the terminal?

did you use any kind of antisieze on the plug threads?