[BMW335D88]

guys i need help...i just got the meth kit from AEM and i am thinking to send it back because i don't know how to install....how yo bring the hoses from inside car to the engine and the wires from trunk in the car

[BMW335D88]

the bench i mean the rear seats can't move them and from inside car to engine how to bring the hoses?

[Smonkey09]

These is a opening in firewall by glovebox fuses that goes into the DDe housing. Google search e90 route wire through firewall and you'll find some pictures and instructions. Easiest to remove DDE and push a coat hanger through the hole into cabin, tape wires to coat hanger, then pull out. Also Google how to remove rear seat. Basically you just pull up bottom part and it pops off. See my profile for an album with some pics.

[stevers314]

Originally Posted by Smonkey09

These is a opening in firewall by glovebox fuses that goes into the DDe housing. Google search e90 route wire through firewall and you'll find some pictures and instructions. Easiest to remove DDE and push a coat hanger through the hole into cabin, tape wires to coat hanger, then pull out. Also Google how to remove rear seat. Basically you just pull up bottom part and it pops off. See my profile for an album with some pics.

You can also fish the wires through the trunk and down the side of the seat. That's what I did. It required removing the trunk carpet on the passenger side but it works.

Not sure where you are mounting the tank (if not using washer tank), but mine is in the trunk above the amplifier and exits the cabin just below that. Follows the belly pan to the front.

[BMW335D88]

thank u guys

[Kjelly]

Just wanted to add that I'm getting a kit installed this Friday.

I'm going with the Snow MPG Max system. Since my primary reason is CBU cleaning, I'm going to go with the 60 ml and 225 ml nozzles. I guess I'll start at 10 psi and then full on at 23 psi.

I'll add pictures also.

[dumalei]

Where should I tap my boost line to read boost ?

[RDA3440]

Kjelly Hey there, please post up your install - that's the kit I'm going for (same reason, CBU mitigation).

Thanks!

[Kjelly]

Originally Posted by RDA3440

Kjelly Hey there, please post up your install - that's the kit I'm going for (same reason, CBU mitigation).

Thanks!

Sure thing.

I just got back from the shop tonight. They had some troubles hooking everything up, I need to go back later this week for them to finish the install. The good news is that it a very clean install. I'll attach pictures when I can.

The bad news is that they are not finished with it, and worst yet, they didn't reattach something because the car is leaking oil somewhere in the front lower left portion of the car. There is oil all over the lower left area of the car, I need to pull the underbody panels and see what is loose.

When I was driving the car back, I noticed a dramatic lost of power, especially when going uphill (engine load was maxed out at not very steep gradients). The EGR remained closed entire time, 1 hr drive. No idiot lights illuminated though.

[Kjelly]

Originally Posted by RDA3440

Kjelly Hey there, please post up your install - that's the kit I'm going for (same reason, CBU mitigation).

Thanks!

Just to follow up, check out my post on the other thread.
12V power source info is definitely one you want to know.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...49&postcount=9

Pictures to come!

[stevers314]

Originally Posted by Kjelly

Sure thing.

I just got back from the shop tonight. They had some troubles hooking everything up, I need to go back later this week for them to finish the install. The good news is that it a very clean install. I'll attach pictures when I can.

The bad news is that they are not finished with it, and worst yet, they didn't reattach something because the car is leaking oil somewhere in the front lower left portion of the car. There is oil all over the lower left area of the car, I need to pull the underbody panels and see what is loose.

When I was driving the car back, I noticed a dramatic lost of power, especially when going uphill (engine load was maxed out at not very steep gradients). The EGR remained closed entire time, 1 hr drive. No idiot lights illuminated though.

Sounds like they may have not secured the lower charge pipe connection. I'm very curious about the oil issue being there was no need to tap into the lubrication system.


Also 10psi is going to be too low for the nozzles. 15 is the lowest starting point i've found where that nozzle won't cause quench often.

[Kjelly]

Originally Posted by stevers314

Sounds like they may have not secured the lower charge pipe connection. I'm very curious about the oil issue being there was no need to tap into the lubrication system.


Also 10psi is going to be too low for the nozzles. 15 is the lowest starting point i've found where that nozzle won't cause quench often.

Thanks for the help.

It was the discharge pipe that came loose. All the oil was the blow-by and built up oil in the intercooler. I couldn' find a leak anywhere else and like you said there's no reason to tap into the oil system. I was able resecure the pipe to the intercooler, and now everything seems fine.

Are you using a 60 ml/min nozzle? And when does your Power mode activate?
I can't imagine a 60 ml coming on at 10 psi would cause quenching. The manual recommends 10 as a starting point for VW TDIs. So, I figure since the main TDI engine is 2.0L and 150 hp, our engine has to be able to handle, at least, the starting point.

In the limited time I used the system, quenching only occurred on the highway when Power mode came on (cruise control set for 70 mph).

[stevers314]

I've used many combos of nozzles so far, 60&225, 60&625, currently i'm on a 175&225. The issue isn't that 10psi is too little for injection, but you can hit 10psi just off idle. If there were an RPM trigger that would prevent any injection until say 2200rpm it would be a different story.

At the moment i'm set for 16psi start, 20 psi full, 23psi power with the 175 and 225cc nozzles. Some how i still manage to use about 2 gallons per tank highway, and nearly 4 if I'm doing all city driving. I run 'er hard.

[Chief Orman]

Originally Posted by Kjelly

Thanks for the help.

It was the discharge pipe that came loose. All the oil was the blow-by and built up oil in the intercooler. I couldn' find a leak anywhere else and like you said there's no reason to tap into the oil system. I was able resecure the pipe to the intercooler, and now everything seems fine.

Are you using a 60 ml/min nozzle? And when does your Power mode activate?
I can't imagine a 60 ml coming on at 10 psi would cause quenching. The manual recommends 10 as a starting point for VW TDIs. So, I figure since the main TDI engine is 2.0L and 150 hp, our engine has to be able to handle, at least, the starting point.

In the limited time I used the system, quenching only occurred on the highway when Power mode came on (cruise control set for 70 mph).

How much did you pay for your install? Is the amount injected purely based on boost pressure or do they also link it to RPM? Seems like boost alone makes the most sense. What exactly is quenching?

[Kjelly]

Originally Posted by Chief Orman

How much did you pay for your install? Is the amount injected purely based on boost pressure or do they also link it to RPM? Seems like boost alone makes the most sense. What exactly is quenching?

I paid $300 for install, that also included a dyno session to set up the initial parameters for the controller.

My controller is based solely on boost pressure. There are some other members who were able to modify their controller to spray on boost as long as certain RPM conditions were met. Boost and RPM prevents quenching at low RPMs because of large injectors.

Quenching is essentially too much liquid going into the engine causing backfires or engine roughness. There are plenty of YouTube videos demonstrating that effect.

[gtp900]

Originally Posted by Kjelly

I paid $300 for install, that also included a dyno session to set up the initial parameters for the controller.

My controller is based solely on boost pressure. There are some other members who were able to modify their controller to spray on boost as long as certain RPM conditions were met. Boost and RPM prevents quenching at low RPMs because of large injectors.

Quenching is essentially too much liquid going into the engine causing backfires or engine roughness. There are plenty of YouTube videos demonstrating that effect.

Well said, I
read the other post, those seem like pretty good gains for such small nossels. I currently have a single nossel (625) Devils own set up, but I'm considering switching to a duel nossel set up, possibly switching to a CMGS controller mostly for aesthetics.

[Chief Orman]

Originally Posted by gtp900

Well said, I
read the other post, those seem like pretty good gains for such small nossels. I currently have a single nossel (625) Devils own set up, but I'm considering switching to a duel nossel set up, possibly switching to a CMGS controller mostly for aesthetics.

I am getting a Snow Performance kit installed on Thursday. I am thinking that the first 175m nozzle will kick in at 30% at 15 psi and max out at 22psi; the second 175m will come on a 100% at 23 psi.

Do you guys know if these kits come with an on/off switch for times when you just don't want to use the system?

[Chief Orman]

Originally Posted by Kjelly

I paid $300 for install, that also included a dyno session to set up the initial parameters for the controller.

My controller is based solely on boost pressure. There are some other members who were able to modify their controller to spray on boost as long as certain RPM conditions were met. Boost and RPM prevents quenching at low RPMs because of large injectors.

Quenching is essentially too much liquid going into the engine causing backfires or engine roughness. There are plenty of YouTube videos demonstrating that effect.

That is a damn inexpensive install.

[Kjelly]

Originally Posted by Chief Orman

That is a damn inexpensive install.

Yeah, good price. I just wished the tank was secured better in the trunk. It'll tip over if I take a left turn hard.

I need to find a more secure method; a better bracket that will hold tank along the side of the trunk.

[Chief Orman]

Guys I am discovering that not many folks in the tuning community have a lot of experience with water/meth systems. I have talked to 10 tuning shops in the bay area and I don't think one has actually installed a lot on a diesel passenger car. I know some of you guys may laugh but I think it is daunting for these shops given the variety of what is involved...for example tearing apart the trunk to mount and wire/messing with the interior to mount the gauge/tapping the charge pipe/feeding wires hoses through the car, etc. Again I know you more experienced guys may laugh, but I have now witnessed a couple of good mechanics get daunted when they evaluate all that is involved.

I think the optimal skill set would be stereo installer/mechanic/electrician.

I was supposed to get my kit installed today but had to cancel because the shop wanted to keep my car for two days.

In the meantime, I had the delrin/aluminum rear subframe bushings installed in addition to new sway bars. The rear sub-bushings are something anyone who wants to keep their car should do. Minimal NVH and the car finally feels like single unit.

[Chief Orman]

Originally Posted by stevers314

Sounds like they may have not secured the lower charge pipe connection. I'm very curious about the oil issue being there was no need to tap into the lubrication system.


Also 10psi is going to be too low for the nozzles. 15 is the lowest starting point i've found where that nozzle won't cause quench often.

Embarrassing question time but what exactly is the water meth kit attaching to to read the boost psi? How does it tap the sensor?

[Chief Orman]

Water/meth install take two. I finally found an installer who has experience with water/meth kits. I am getting it installed this Thursday. Fingers crossed.