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Install spacer to prevent rubbing on the car is NOT recommend
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03-22-2008, 01:44 AM | #1 |
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Install spacer to prevent rubbing on the car is NOT recommend
I have discussed couple elite Intructors at BMW Trainning facility. I also called for serveral Dealership to comfirm the intructor comment. I also go throught another source to make sure everything is correct.
Here is my question for them. I asked out of curiousity. would you recommend to install spacer on the BMW car so the rim would not rub. 1st. BMW Instructor told me this. He would not recommend to install spacer. Due to BMW Wheel is HUB centric. Adding Spacer on the the HUB is very dangerous because what if your spacer is damage and break apart. the car spind like crazy. It will loose control of it. ABS will be in Default mode, DSC will not function. The Servomotor on the Rack and Pinion will not working. Your Echo Valve is not function. Your lock pin on the rack and pinion will lock. suspension system will be shiften. You will hit something. Your car will be total lost. I also ask the same question to Foreman at New Centery BMW. He said similiar thing. However, he told me it would look cool but BMW would NOT recommend due to safety hazard. For aftermarket company they just want to make extra money off from you. Since BMW 335i aftermarket parts is very hot right now. Million and Million will make from this car for aftermarket companies I got a reply from PUMA this is what they said. According to BMW Engineering, They would not recommend any aftermarket addition to the Suspension is not recommend. Addition concern regarding to spacer, we recommend purchase new OEM spec Wheel. OEM wheel is part of the Collision protection system for the vehicle. After this thread, i know alot of aftermarket company will hate me for it. I rather be safe than sorry. |
03-22-2008, 02:02 AM | #2 | |
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And about your topic title..I don't understand why you would put on spacers to 'avoid rubbing'? If anything you will NOT rub if you DON'T use spacers at all. Spacers are just used for a more flush and aggressive stance. |
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03-22-2008, 02:32 AM | #3 |
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Dont ever fully trust anything any BMW-employee tells you, they are full of it.
Of course you can use spacers if you rub on the INSIDE. But make sure they are hubcentric.
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03-22-2008, 02:34 AM | #4 | |
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Last edited by LACA335i; 03-22-2008 at 02:58 AM.. |
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03-22-2008, 02:52 AM | #5 | |
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I do understand, there are many SO CALL BMW Mechanic out there work for BMW or not, They dont know much in deep about the car technology. They are just a Wrench MOnkey. WHy would BMW company sent out their technican like 2 to 3 times per year to learn or update their skill. i would like to disagree with them on the Spacer issue. However after finishing up the course "STO56 Body Chasis Dymanic COurse." and certify from it. everything you do to the BMW, it will affect alot of stuffs on the System. For example, a simple drop with HR sport spring. I have dtc from GT1(doing a short test), it said, DSC default, DTC code. my EMS system have a default. However, i have no CEL on my intrument cluster. If i have an CEL (the dtc code) , i would have a special code on Generic OBD II. However, it does not have any default code |
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03-22-2008, 02:59 AM | #6 | ||
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03-22-2008, 03:08 AM | #7 |
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[QUOTE=nagge;2346291]I dont trust anyone with my car, not a single person. That being said I do take it to BMW for service and warranty jobs if it isnt something I can easily fix myself.
what is your definition of easy to fix?everything on the BMW car are likely to link to each other. So tell me which part of the car you would considering easy to fix or replace? Tire and rime replace? when you are replace or upgrade the rim, you need to do pre-measure on the ride heigh, and than you input into "HUNTER" wheel Aligement. If necessary, you need to adjust camber or toe. Caster Is not adjustable on majority of the bmw car. Then you need to reset and reprogram the DSC,ABS, other module. for the correct ride height. Otherwise, you will have DTC code on the GT1. You will not see it on your Generic OBD II. Since it is only 8 pins connector. Even with the Camber adjustment. BMW have a special tool for that. It only allow you to move about .5 to 1 degree. when you adjust the toe, you need to tight it with their OEM Torque Spec. do you think you have all at from your house? |
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03-22-2008, 03:13 AM | #8 |
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Something easy to fix is something I am capable of doing, being I might have to do some research. Letting someone else (i.e. BMW) touch the car is a last resort.
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03-22-2008, 03:17 AM | #9 |
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I don't think he means installing a spacer will affect the systems in your car. I'm pretty sure the OP is saying in the case of spacer failure, there will be catastrophic consequences...
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03-22-2008, 03:20 AM | #10 | |
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03-22-2008, 03:26 AM | #11 |
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i agreed with u. however, incase it do break apart from the car due to bend or poor made material. I know alot of people do drive hard and aggressively, I am concern on their safety if they do have spacer on. It can kill u when your tire is loose, now you are driving on 3 tires on the car. it will keep spinning until it hit something .
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03-22-2008, 03:28 AM | #12 | |
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Ride height? I dont alter my ride height when I change my wheels, if you do you obviously have the wrong dimensions. So if I interpret you correctly, I have to go into BMW and have them adjust my toe, camber and DSC/ABS-module if I change my tires?
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03-22-2008, 03:30 AM | #13 | |
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03-22-2008, 03:45 AM | #14 | |
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Everytime you go to tire shop, they recommend you to also do aligement . Yes they are trying to make extra money. However this is the only way they insured you wont come back for remounting the tire or free tire cause it is bad. . This mean free service. if PUMA require us to do it. we will do it. Anything would considering safety factor for BMW. We are advised to take thing serious on that. Ride height? I dont alter my ride height when I change my wheels, if you do you obviously have the wrong dimensions. yes you would change your ride height when you changing either side of the wheel or your tire dimensional. Ride height define as like this. from the bottom of the rim ( not the tire) to the fender. if you have stock 225/40/17 inches rims and wheel, your ride heigh is 650 mm. Now you just change dimension to 245/35/17 tires, your ride heigh is 680 mm. do you see the different. YOu will not know it until you measure it. By changing just the tire itself, you just change the ride height. However the ABS and DSC system recaculate for u for smooth ride and reduce tire wear fast. However, if you are out of the boundery of the spec. you will have extensive tire wear. When you have extensive tire wear. it could reflex on either your camber or toe. it is also depend on the wear mark. Now we need to adjust the toe or camber to spec so you wont have too much tire wear. we always recommend a wheel aligement. this way we can avoid come back. IF you say no to our recommend on the aligement, your tire is bad before xxx miles. We dont have to honor your request for refund. Basically screw you.. According to law, you may get fine or ticket if an offical wish to inspection your tire wear for safety reason. On your tire, it is a federal law for a manufactor to have a wear indicator on the tire. if your thread line is flat with the wear indicator. it would be considering tire is ball. Safety harrass. |
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03-22-2008, 04:56 AM | #15 | |||
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Do you mean if I dont let BMW change my tires I will have inbalanced tires? Quote:
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You say that ride height is measured from the bottom of the rim (which makes no sense), how come the ride height differs in your example when you change only the tires? Further more if I change from 225/40-17 to 245/35-17 I only change the ride height with 4,25mm (measured from the ground to the fender which is what is interesting). This is perfectly normal and is well within what a worn down tire would differ. I dont get all this talk about ride height? You try to keep the diameter of the new wheel as close to the stock ones as possible. A difference of 1-3% in diameter is something all systems (ABS, DSC etc.) are very capable of handling.
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03-22-2008, 10:40 AM | #16 | |
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Do you mean if I dont let BMW change my tires I will have inbalanced tires? all im saying when we do a warranty and maintance at the dealership. if we check the suspension, we notice there is a change and the tire is wear out too quickly. We have to note it and record it to the bmw for warranty conflict. we have to recomend you the driver should get aligement adjust. "You say that ride height is measured from the bottom of the rim (which makes no sense), how come the ride height differs in your example when you change only the tires? Further more if I change from 225/40-17 to 245/35-17 I only change the ride height with 4,25mm (measured from the ground to the fender which is what is interesting). This is perfectly normal and is well within what a worn down tire would differ." btw that was an example. the actual number is not correct to what i give u. here i will copy and paste directly from the bmw stuff Ride Height When measuring ride height, measure from the lower edge of the wheel rim (not from bottom of the ground and NOT bottom of the tire to the ground either) to the lower edge of the wheel opening. (aka tip of the Fender) Use a metric tape measure with divisions of 1 mm. Ride Height Measurement When performing alignments on BMW vehicle, the ride height must be set and checked before proceeding with any measurement or adjustments. Ride height is measured from the lower edge of the wheel rim to the lower edge of the wheel housing. Ride height specifications are in millimeters. The specifications can be found in Technical Data. The front axle ride height is in Group 31 and the rear axle ride height is in Group 33. In order to obtain the correct specification, the vehicle and suspension type must be identified. Ride height specifications depend upon rim size (15”, 16 “, 17 “ etc.), engine size and the type of suspension. There are 4 different types of suspension packages: • Series - Standard production vehicle • Low Slung Sports Suspension - This is used on vehicle with Sports Package Option. • Rough Road Package - For Eastern European Rough roads. Not used in US. • M Sports Package - Used on Motorsport vehicles or those with M Package Option. The example shown below is the ride height specifications for an E39 540i (Front Axle). Series 15” Rim mm +/- 10 579 16” Rim mm +/- 10 592 17” Rim mm +/- 10 607 18” Rim mm +/- 10 620 Low Slung Sports Suspension 15” Rim mm 559 16” Rim mm 572 17” Rim mm 587 18” Rim mm 600 Rough Road Package 15” Rim mm +/- 10 599 16” Rim mm +/- 10 612 17” Rim mm +/- 10 627 18” Rim mm +/- 10 640 M Sports Package 15” Rim mm +/- 10 562 16” Rim mm +/- 10 575 17” Rim mm +/- 10 590 18” Rim mm +/- 10 603 |
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03-22-2008, 10:44 AM | #17 |
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that is correct sir. may i have another of your wisdom. jk.. hello there
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03-23-2008, 11:57 AM | #18 | |
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Very impressive copy/paste but do you really know what it says? I would be very impressed if someone managed to get two different 18" wheels to measure differently from the bottom of the rim to the fender. If you think about it it's simply impossible. All of the above you pasted is to determine the right ride height for each suspension sort, it has nothing to do with changing tires, because it doesnt even take the tire dimensions into consideration. However this has gone far off topic, lets just sum it up: BMW (you) doesnt think spacers are a good idea. Yet thousands of people use them without problems. Obviously a faulty or poorly made spacer comes with the risk of breaking, that doesnt need pointing out. However there is nothing dangerous about using a properly made hubcentric spacer. Your talk about aftermarket wheels and tires doesnt really make any sense other than you working for BMW.
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03-23-2008, 12:23 PM | #19 |
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this is BMW ALigement procedure. (EVerything is calculating into pre aligement that include ride heigh and tire, bend parts on the suspension)
Alignment Procedures The following procedure is an outline to follow based on BMW procedures. The actual alignment procedures will vary depending upon the alignment equipment being used. Refer to the alignment equipment manufacturers procedures for specific information. The steps listed below should be followed as closely as possible to perform a quality alignment. • Vehicle Inspection - The vehicle inspection should include a road test before and after the alignment. Note any concerns during the pre-alignment road test and verify that the concern has been rectified during the post-alignment road test. • Install Specified Weight - Check Group 32 Technical Data in TIS to determine the “Normal Position/ Inspection Conditions”. Install Specified weight in vehicle and compensate for fuel by adding extra weight if needed. • Install Alignment Sensors - Install alignment sensors as per the alignment equipment manufacturers recommended procedures. • Compensate Sensors - Depending upon the alignment sensors being used, compensation may not be necessary. Compensation may require the vehicle to be lifted from the alignment rack. If so, be sure to remove the pins from the front and rear slip plates. If the sensors do not need to be compensated, the next step can be ignored. • Lower Vehicle and Jounce - Make sure the pins are removed from the slip plates. Lower the vehicle back onto the alignment rack and jounce the vehicle. This will insure that the suspension has settled. • Check Ride Height - Check ride height using metric tape measure. Ride height specifications can be found in Technical Data in TIS. Front ride height specs can be found under group 31 and rear can be found under group 33. Always check ride height after compensating the sensors. This will avoid having to check the ride height twice. • Perform Alignment - There and various types of alignment equipment used in BMW workshops. Refer to the equipment manufacturers instructions for the next steps of the alignment. When performing an alignment of a vehicle equipped with air suspension (EHC), disable the system by removing the fuse for the air supply system. This will insure that the ride height will stay consistent. 29 Suspension Systems Vehicle Inspection Before attempting to align any vehicle, it is important to inspect the vehicle completely to insure there are no damaged or loose suspension components. Regardless of the age or mileage of the vehicle, a complete inspection should be performed. The following items should be checked thoroughly: • Tires and Wheels - Check tires for wear patterns that could indicate suspension problems. Make sure the tires are the correct size and type. Check for the correct inflation pressures. Look for wheel/rim damage which could indicate impact damage. • Wheel bearings - Check to make sure there is no excessive wheel bearing play. This needs to be addressed for safety reasons, but loose wheel bearings will affect the quality of the alignment as well. • Steering Linkage- Check the tie rods, center link, idler arm and pitman arm. On vehicles with rack and pinion steering, check for loose inner/outer tie rods etc. On vehicles with a center link, make sure the center link is level (see BMW TIS Repair Instructions). Check flexible coupling between steering shaft and rack and pinion assembly (or steering box). • Suspension Components - Check Struts/Shocks for leakage or damage. Check springs and perform ride height measurements. • Subframe - Check the front and rear axle carriers. Look for bent/twisted sub frames. Check the crossmembers for evidence of shifting or displacement. Check the mounting bolts for “clean spots” which could indicate shifting or movement. • Brakes - Check braking system by road testing the vehicle. A road test could help to identify brake related issues such as pulling or brake induced vibrations. • Drivetrain - While road testing the vehicle, observe and vibrations and/or noises and try to isolate the cause. Noises and vibrations under acceleration (rather than coasting) may be an indication of drivetrain issues. Road Testing Whenever possible, Last edited by LACA335i; 03-23-2008 at 12:45 PM.. |
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03-23-2008, 12:46 PM | #20 | ||||||
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Of course the DSC and ABS will adjust to the new size, so what is the issue you are talking about? What will happen if I change my tire size by 1-3% (which is to be considered normal)? Let's say you are correct, by driving on a tire which has lost 10mm in diameter (5mm loss of thread depth) I will cause serious damage to my suspension? Please clarify. Quote:
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Please re-read my post, unless you misinterpret on purpose. Quote:
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03-23-2008, 12:48 PM | #21 |
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What are you trying to explain with that text? It has nothing to do with this thread. And please stop deleting your posts when I'm replying.
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