[Island Road]

This weekend I went to tackle my PLM DP, AE Quad Exhaust and BMS V3 DP Fix Install. The process pretty much took all day. First time doing any work like this on a BMW so I was learning everything but changing dp’s and installing exhaust on other cars is nothing new to me.

After the install process I did not have time to adjust the BMS unit so it’s on default at the moment (6’oclock). I got a SES light and had to drive back to Boston. Here is my question.

When I go to re-adjust the dial do I have to shut off the car every time I turn the dial - (Turn off Car set the dial Start up and see if SES goes away)?

Or Can I Do this on the fly - (Have the car started turn the dial while the car is on and see if the SES goes away)?

Will the SES go away by itself; do I need to reset the ECU after I find the correct settings? Is resetting the ECU just a matter of unplugging the battery for an hour?

Once last question, since installing the DP/Exhaust and BMS Fix I have had mixed results with idle issues. Sometimes the car will start fine and everything acts / sounds normal. Other times and this is random the car will start rough, jumpy idle, feel as though its misfiring like crazy and have about 50% power. I then restart the car and all is fine. I am assuming it’s because I don’t have the DP fix set correctly so its randomly working off both O2’s and not just the front sensors and once I get my V3 dialed in correctly this should be a non issue?

A ton of questions I know but any help would be awesome.

[themyst]

There is a dp fix FAQ on BMS site n54tech.com. Read the codes before u adjust the dial. My personal experience was I had to turn the dial right 2 notches.

[tibra1]

You have to scan for the codes you get..if its set too strong you will get
2C31/2C32..too weak 29F4/29F5..I would suggest to start at a weaker setting and work your way stronger ..as the too strong codes (2C31/2C32) are a pain to clear and will keep coming back even when you set the dial correctly..until the ECU does several internal checks..here is the instruction sheet

http://www.burgertuning.com/instruct...ownpipefix.pdf

and yes you must shut the car off and keep the key FOB away..

[Island Road]

Originally Posted by themyst

There is a dp fix FAQ on BMS site n54tech.com. Read the codes before u adjust the dial. My personal experience was I had to turn the dial right 2 notches.

Thanks for the info I registered with that site but can’t find the FAQ although there are a ton of threads regarding the dp fix. Do you happen to have a link to the FAQ tread?

Originally Posted by tibra1

You have to scan for the codes you get..if its set too strong you will get
2C31/2C32..too weak 29F4/29F5..I would suggest to start at a weaker setting and work your way stronger ..as the too strong codes (2C31/2C32) are a pain to clear and will keep coming back even when you set the dial correctly..until the ECU does several internal checks..here is the instruction sheet

http://www.burgertuning.com/instruct...ownpipefix.pdf

and yes you must shut the car off and keep the key FOB away..

Thanks for the link, I had this but should have read up on it. Why does keeping your fob away make any difference? It’s insane that you need to drive 20+ miles to sometimes register, who has time to be driving that much I only work 3 miles away and after work there is crazy traffic around Boston. Looks like I am going to be hitting up Route 2 for some runs. I have a BT dongle that I bought off eBay on the cheap. Has anybody had experience using one of these and some software to clear the codes?

Also would not having the correct setting cause extremely rough idle / running almost like misfiring?

[G.I.Joe]

I started out using the default position and got the 29F4/29F5 codes the first time after about 3-400 miles. I eventually ended up 2 "hours-marks"/notches counterclockwise. I now have no codes anymore.

The setting has had no influenze on how the engine has been running in my car.

[tibra1]

Originally Posted by islandroad83

Thanks for the info I registered with that site but can’t find the FAQ although there are a ton of threads regarding the dp fix. Do you happen to have a link to the FAQ tread?



Thanks for the link, I had this but should have read up on it. Why does keeping your fob away make any difference? It’s insane that you need to drive 20+ miles to sometimes register, who has time to be driving that much I only work 3 miles away and after work there is crazy traffic around Boston. Looks like I am going to be hitting up Route 2 for some runs. I have a BT dongle that I bought off eBay on the cheap. Has anybody had experience using one of these and some software to clear the codes?

Also would not having the correct setting cause extremely rough idle / running almost like misfiring?

Some say keepin the key FOB away is not important..i do it just for good measure..yeah unfortnuantly thats they way it works you wont trigger a catless CEL till you do some long highway driving..either way it’s a small price to pay for the power you get from being catless..I only got one catless code since I installed mine..adjusted w no problem since..

If you are getting the too strong codes 2C31/2C32 you may misfire..thats why I suggested start weaker and work you way to stronger the too weak codes 29F4 29F5 dont affect the cars performance

[Island Road]

Holy Error Codes BMW!!! Here we go..

P0301 - Powertrain
Cylinder 1 misfire Detected

P0302 - Powertrain
Cylinder 2 misfire Detected

P0300 - Powertrain
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P0040 - Powertrain

P0305
Cylinder 5 misfire Detected
P0306
Cylinder 6 misfire Detected
P0304
Cylinder 4 misfire Detected

B2AAA - Body ... No idea what this is


I used my BT dongle and Android Torque App to grab these codes so they are not BMW special codes but just generic

I know the Misfires were happening and they were going to throw some codes. After using the search Button i came across this thread about code "P0040 - Powertrain" Looks as though the O2 sensors were swapped and the main reason why its Misfiring. So all in all my DP Fix actually just might be fine and this is the cause.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108229

Is it really that bad just to swap the cables? The DP Fix is going to be ignoring the bottom two O2's anyway. ( no need to flame i plan on just swapping the sensors not the cables but kinda curious anyway)

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by themyst

There is a dp fix FAQ on BMS site n54tech.com. Read the codes before u adjust the dial. My personal experience was I had to turn the dial right 2 notches.

+1

Adjustments shouldn't be made without reading the codes.

Mike

[Island Road]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

+1

Adjustments shouldn't be made without reading the codes.

Mike

I am going to fix the swapped O2 Sensors this weekend and then see what the codes say after that, and take it from there.

[Island Road]

So long story short, the BMS DP fix is working fine and did not even need adjustment. I swapped the O2's sensors because they were mixed up, cleared all the codes and everything is perfect.

The car runs smooth and completely back to normally now, plus the AE exhaust sounds a lot more refined amazing sound!.

[Boss777]

Originally Posted by Island Road

So long story short, the BMS DP fix is working fine and did not even need adjustment. I swapped the O2's sensors because they were mixed up, cleared all the codes and everything is perfect.

The car runs smooth and completely back to normally now, plus the AE exhaust sounds a lot more refined amazing sound!.

what do you mean mixed up? i get same codes but only after i install jb4 on any map but stock

[blackturbo]

Originally Posted by Boss777

what do you mean mixed up? i get same codes but only after i install jb4 on any map but stock

Theres a few threads indicating that you should put the same o2 sensors back in its original spots, back and front. When doing the install put tape on with a marker indicating the original spot.

[Island Road]

Originally Posted by blackturbo

Theres a few threads indicating that you should put the same o2 sensors back in its original spots, back and front. When doing the install put tape on with a marker indicating the original spot.

Exactly this, I had the front O2 mixed with the rear and that turned out to be my issue.

[Boss777]

i see

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by Island Road

Exactly this, I had the front O2 mixed with the rear and that turned out to be my issue.

Common install issue.. Like someone mentioned above best to mark o2s with tape so you know their location.

Mike

[Island Road]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

Common install issue.. Like someone mentioned above best to mark o2s with tape so you know their location.

Mike

Haha ya I learnt after that for sure. Tape and label always