[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by churchillps

I just purchased a 2009 Sapphire Metallic 335 coupe which looks like it was fairly well cared for, but not especially well. There are some small swirls, one 2 inch by 2 inch area with very small circular scratches (that I hope are only in the CC), a few chips on the edge of driver door, and some deeper, but still not horrible, scratches on the lower front bumper (aero kit) where the previous owner apparently parked into some curbs.

I took the car to a well reviewed "detailer" in San Antonio. I wad skeptical when it was only $200, and it appears to just be a wash, wax, and maybe glaze.

I'm extremely meticulous in caring for my cars, and time commitment is not an issue. I'd rather do everything myself as well. I'd like to keep my car looking the best as I possibly can. I feel like I have a sufficient grasps of what each product does, but with so many recommended routine out there I'd love if you could suggest a personalized schedule for me (especially if there's something special I should do for the first detail, and then any regimen for the future).

Also, any advice about the chips/scratches would be greatly appreciated as well.

$200 most likely got you a wash and wax type process. Usually if they start polishing it's going to cost you a bit more for top quality work. Doing it yourself is not too hard with just a little bit of knowledge and the right product combination. Check out our Ask a Pro Blog and our detailing guide for tons of great info and I'm here to help.

The chips will require some touch up paint, wet sanding and polishing multiple times for best results. We don't carry the paints so I can't help you out there but it can be done if you have the patience.

Now for the more traditional detailing steps I'll outline a full detail below, that I'd suggest 1 - 2 times per year. In between you just need to wash and protect like every 4 months at a minimum. You certainly can wash and protect more frequently it's just up to you.

Wash/Dry - most swirls come from this process so quality products and techniques are critical. Check out our detailing guide for this step and other steps to maximize your efforts. Here are two awesome kits if interested.
DI Packages Washing and Drying Basic Kit
DI Packages Washing and Drying Starter Package

Clay Bar - This step deep cleans the paint so it's free from stubborn build ups not removed by the washing process. This may seem complicated or different but it's pretty simple and basic. In short spray some clay lube on the paint and glide the bar side to side and picks up micro contaminants in the paint. Here is an excellent value on a clay bar and lube - DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube.

Polish - This is the step where you really restore the paint to like new again. You can permanently remove swirls, oxidation, etc. not just temporarily hide them. I highly recommend you consider getting a Porter Cable (PC) as they are so easy to use, vastly improve your results while saving you time and energy. We have some affordable kits that give you the PC, backing plate, pads and polishes you would need here DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Starter Kit or DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads. Both kits give you the M105 and M205 polishes with the PC that are going to help you really restore the paint to like new. Best of all the PC is easy to use and completely safe even for a first time user. Again check out our detailing guide for step by step instructions and other helpful hints.

If you prefer to do a hand application I generally just recommend a one step process with a foam applicator and Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205.

Protection - After polishing protect and enhance the shine with a sealant or wax. Waxes last about 2 - 6 weeks so we generally recommend a sealant which lasts 3 - 6 months. The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is my favorite sealant. It provides a remarkable shine with durable protection while easy to apply. You can apply it by hand or use a blue pad and your buffer. If you really want to you can apply a wax on top of the sealant for added protection and shine. The Poorboy's World Liquid Natty's Blue Wax is a great option for a quality liquid wax that works on all colors. If you want a bit more gloss from a paste wax try the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax or any of the Dodo Juice waxes. These options are applied by hand only but the exceptional gloss makes it well worth it.

I hand remove all of the excess product with a clean DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel. These towels are paint safe and help quickly remove the left over clay lube, polish, sealant, etc. I'd suggest getting about 5x - 10x of them.

Now step back and admire how awesome your vehicle looks. If you have any other questions please let me know!

Take care!

[churchillps]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

$200 most likely got you a wash and wax type process. Usually if they start polishing it's going to cost you a bit more for top quality work. Doing it yourself is not too hard with just a little bit of knowledge and the right product combination. Check out our Ask a Pro Blog and our detailing guide for tons of great info and I'm here to help.

The chips will require some touch up paint, wet sanding and polishing multiple times for best results. We don't carry the paints so I can't help you out there but it can be done if you have the patience.

Now for the more traditional detailing steps I'll outline a full detail below, that I'd suggest 1 - 2 times per year. In between you just need to wash and protect like every 4 months at a minimum. You certainly can wash and protect more frequently it's just up to you.

Wash/Dry - most swirls come from this process so quality products and techniques are critical. Check out our detailing guide for this step and other steps to maximize your efforts. Here are two awesome kits if interested.
DI Packages Washing and Drying Basic Kit
DI Packages Washing and Drying Starter Package

Clay Bar - This step deep cleans the paint so it's free from stubborn build ups not removed by the washing process. This may seem complicated or different but it's pretty simple and basic. In short spray some clay lube on the paint and glide the bar side to side and picks up micro contaminants in the paint. Here is an excellent value on a clay bar and lube - DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube.

Polish - This is the step where you really restore the paint to like new again. You can permanently remove swirls, oxidation, etc. not just temporarily hide them. I highly recommend you consider getting a Porter Cable (PC) as they are so easy to use, vastly improve your results while saving you time and energy. We have some affordable kits that give you the PC, backing plate, pads and polishes you would need here DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Starter Kit or DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads. Both kits give you the M105 and M205 polishes with the PC that are going to help you really restore the paint to like new. Best of all the PC is easy to use and completely safe even for a first time user. Again check out our detailing guide for step by step instructions and other helpful hints.

If you prefer to do a hand application I generally just recommend a one step process with a foam applicator and Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205.

Protection - After polishing protect and enhance the shine with a sealant or wax. Waxes last about 2 - 6 weeks so we generally recommend a sealant which lasts 3 - 6 months. The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is my favorite sealant. It provides a remarkable shine with durable protection while easy to apply. You can apply it by hand or use a blue pad and your buffer. If you really want to you can apply a wax on top of the sealant for added protection and shine. The Poorboy's World Liquid Natty's Blue Wax is a great option for a quality liquid wax that works on all colors. If you want a bit more gloss from a paste wax try the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax or any of the Dodo Juice waxes. These options are applied by hand only but the exceptional gloss makes it well worth it.

I hand remove all of the excess product with a clean DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel. These towels are paint safe and help quickly remove the left over clay lube, polish, sealant, etc. I'd suggest getting about 5x - 10x of them.

Now step back and admire how awesome your vehicle looks. If you have any other questions please let me know!

Take care!

I've read some people say you need to wash between sealing and waxing, is that the case? Also, I saved my cart here: http://www.detailedimage.com/Cart-Saved/118832674/ . Is this excessive?

[churchillps]

Originally Posted by churchillps

I've read some people say you need to wash between sealing and waxing, is that the case? Also, I saved my cart here: http://www.detailedimage.com/Cart-Saved/118832674/ . Is this excessive?

Also, my swirls are definitely in the "light" category (although there are a few areas with some superficial scratching). I've read the M105 is pretty intense, should I just be using it on the highly scratched area and using a different polish with a fine pad on the rest of the car (if so can you recommend a polish"

[rup]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Thank you for the purchase and good luck. Remember to test this product on s small (least visible) area first to ensure it's working as intended. You can also dilute it down if you want to be even more safe, but it is considered to be a gentle degreaser by most. Good luck!

Greg @ DI

Thanks Greg. Tried it out, has made the stain definitely better, will try again soon to see if a second application will help.
Used it neat after a test section.
Very good general cleaner, had a carpet stain (in my house) which it did a great job on.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by churchillps

I've read some people say you need to wash between sealing and waxing, is that the case? Also, I saved my cart here: http://www.detailedimage.com/Cart-Saved/118832674/ . Is this excessive?

Thank you for the message I'd be happy to help. I apologize for the slow response I was away on vacation for all of last week and I just got back.
No you never want to wash between sealing and waxing. Your car looks great and it has many of my favorites so I can tell you did your homework. I don't see any must have items missing or things that must be removed. If you have any other questions please let me know.

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by churchillps

Also, my swirls are definitely in the "light" category (although there are a few areas with some superficial scratching). I've read the M105 is pretty intense, should I just be using it on the highly scratched area and using a different polish with a fine pad on the rest of the car (if so can you recommend a polish"

Even if you don't have a lot of swirls the depth of each individual swirl determines what polishes are needed. So while you may not have a lot a product like the M105 will help remove some of the deeper swirls. If you want to start off with just the M205 you certainly can and move up to the M105 as need be. However I've worked on many new brand new cars that required the M105. If you have any other questions please let me know.

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by rup

Thanks Greg. Tried it out, has made the stain definitely better, will try again soon to see if a second application will help.
Used it neat after a test section.
Very good general cleaner, had a carpet stain (in my house) which it did a great job on.

Glad to hear about your success, let me know if I can help you with any future detailing questions.

Greg @ DI

[schan]

Want to do my own detail as I got a terrible experience having a car wash place detail my white e90. They left swirls almost everywhere! I'm new to this and heard good things about the porter cable. What do you recommend as far as pad combinations with what type/brand of polish?

Thanks

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by schan

Want to do my own detail as I got a terrible experience having a car wash place detail my white e90. They left swirls almost everywhere! I'm new to this and heard good things about the porter cable. What do you recommend as far as pad combinations with what type/brand of polish?

Thanks

Thank you for the inquiry I'd be happy to help. Car washes can be dangerous places for those of us who love our cars. We can definitely help you get your paint looking it's best again. Usually I recommend a full detail at least 1 - 2 times per year and then just wash and protect it as desired in between. A full detail to me consists of a wash, dry, clay bar, polish, sealant and/or wax. This process will deep clean the paint and make it really shine again while protecting it for months to come.

Wash/Dry - most swirls come from this process so quality products and techniques are critical. Check out our detailing guide for this step and other steps to maximize your efforts. Here are two awesome kits if interested.
DI Packages Washing and Drying Basic Kit
DI Packages Washing and Drying Starter Package

Clay Bar - This step deep cleans the paint so it's free from stubborn build ups not removed by the washing process. This may seem complicated or different but it's pretty simple and basic. In short spray some clay lube on the paint and glide the bar side to side and picks up micro contaminants in the paint. Here is an excellent value on a clay bar and lube - DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube.

Polish - This is the step where you really restore the paint to like new again. You can permanently remove swirls, oxidation, etc. not just temporarily hide them. I highly recommend you consider getting a Porter Cable (PC) as they are so easy to use, vastly improve your results while saving you time and energy. We have some affordable kits that give you the PC, backing plate, pads and polishes you would need here DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Starter Kit or DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads. Both kits give you the M105 and M205 polishes with the PC that are going to help you really restore the paint to like new. Best of all the PC is easy to use and completely safe even for a first time user. Again check out our detailing guide for step by step instructions and other helpful hints.

Protection - After polishing protect and enhance the shine with a sealant or wax. Waxes last about 2 - 6 weeks so we generally recommend a sealant which lasts 3 - 6 months. The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is my favorite sealant. It provides a remarkable shine with durable protection while easy to apply. You can apply it by hand or use a blue pad and your buffer. If you really want to you can apply a wax on top of the sealant for added protection and shine. The Poorboy's World Liquid Natty's Blue Wax is a great option for a quality liquid wax that works on all colors. If you want a bit more gloss from a paste wax try the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax or any of the Dodo Juice waxes. These options are applied by hand only but the exceptional gloss makes it well worth it.

I hand remove all of the excess product with a clean DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel. These towels are paint safe and help quickly remove the left over clay lube, polish, sealant, etc. I'd suggest getting about 5x - 10x of them.

Now step back and admire how awesome your vehicle looks. If you have any other questions please let me know!

Take care!

Greg @ DI

[Dukat]

Hi,

1. What would you recommend for protecting my leather seats? (I'm particularly concerned with dyes from things like belts transferring into the seats.)

I was going to get Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil & Pristine Clean and then top it off with Ultima Interior Guard Plus to protect it from stains.

Is that a good idea? The reviews of UIGP say it's superb but I've read some posts saying leather should not be sealed with anything. Is this true?

If using UIGP on leather isn't a good idea, does the Leatherique Pristine Clean have protective properties to keep stains from setting into the leather so it's easier to wipe off?

I have a liter of Leather Honey. Wasn't sure how it compares to Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil. If it's just as good it would be great not to buy the Rejuvinator Oil.

2. I was planning on ordering the 5" Porter Cable kit with the 5.5" pads. I will ask the dealer not to wax my car when they prep it.

Since the car is new & hopefully free of contaminants/damage I was going to wash it, then go over it with Klasse AIO on a finishing/detailing pad, then apply the Klasse High Gloss.

Do you think that's sufficient for a new car or should I go over it with Menzerna Micro Polish SF 4500 first, then AIO, then the sealant?

Do you think I'll even need the Menzerna Micro Polish early on my in cars life or will the AIO be sufficient & better as I'm not polishing away new clearcoat?

3. Should I bother doing the water/alcohol wash prior to the AIO since it is a new car?

4. Will leaving my various waxes, sealers, polishes, washes in the garage that gets to freezing temperatures in the winter damage the products or will they be good as new after they warm up? My house has very limited storage so I'd rather leave everything in the garage unless the cold will damage the chemicals.

Input appreciated.

Thanks!

[Detailed Image]

I already spoke to Dukat via e-mail but in case anyone else is wondering here is my recommendation for him.

Congrats on the new X3 I'm sure you are excited to get it in! Caring for the vehicle right away is critical. I agree do not have them wax it, I wouldn't even let them wash it to be honest. When I got my last car I removed the plastic wrap personally, nothing personal to the dealership I just don't trust any of them. They all thought I was crazy but I felt much better knowing I would be the one doing it. Here are a few things I recommend for new cars.

Washing and Drying
Most swirls come from the washing and drying process so make sure you use good technique (see our Detailing Guide) and use quality products. If you need to upgrade your materials check out these three package deals:
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Pack...-Package-P148/
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Pack...mate-Kit-P141/
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Pack...nced-Kit-P368/

Polishing
Even the most expensive new cars fresh off the boat usually have their share of swirls if you have the right lighting to reveal it. Is a polish mandatory, certainly not but it can almost always help the overall shine. I think the Menzerna SF 4500 with a black pad would be great to ensure it has maximum shine before protecting it. I assure you this polish is so fine you won't be removing any of the clear coat here. You really would need a much more aggressive pad and polish to make any kind of impact on the overall thickness of the clear coat. If you use this polish I'd suggest using something like the Blackfire Wet Diamond afterward instead of an All In One product.

Exterior Protection
Protecting the exterior right away will preserve the paint and make future cleanings easier. I highly recommend the Blackfire Wet Diamond w/polycharger because it looks amazing, applies with ease and protects for months (4-6). I also use it on the headlights, exterior glass and wheels for added protection. You only need about 1 oz per coat for a medium size car so apply it nice and thin for best results. The Klasse AIO and HGSG is another good combination that will work very well. You could use these two instead of the Menzerna SF 4500 and Blackfire Wet Diamond (BFWD) if desired, but I'd personally recommend the SF4500 and BFWD. Unfortunately the mfg has been back ordered on the Klasse HGSG for a month and the mfg is probably not going to have any more in stock for a couple of weeks.

Microfiber
Microfiber is paint safe and highly effective at removing the left over clay lube, polish, sealant, wax, etc. For this process I would suggest getting 5x - 10x of the DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel (http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...03/16-x-16-S1/). These towels are also great for interior cleanings, apply protection, leather care, glass care and so much more!

Interior Protection
The Leatherique products will help safely clean and condition the leather. Afterward you do want to protect the seats but you don't want to seal them, therefore the protectant must let the surface breathe. 303 Aerospace Protectant protects just about the whole interior (vinyl, plastic, rubber, leather). It blocks out UV rays and preserves the finish so apply it to the dashboard, doors, console, arm rests, exterior trim, rubber moldings, etc. etc. Protecting the carpets and mats is super easy just mist the 303 High Tech Fabric Guard on them and you are done! It will help repel moisture while keeping the fibers flexible and soft. If you follow these basic pre-cautions your vehicle will look great for years to come and keep the re-sale value up!

Storing products closer to room temperature would be a big help. When they get to freezing temps or in the 80+ degrees range the products can separate and loose their effectiveness. You could leave the buffer, pads, towels, etc. in the garage but the liquids should be brought in. An insulated storage bag like the Flex bag (http://www.detailedimage.com/Flex-M2...C3401VRG-P165/ ) is a great option to help you bring the products inside the home and back to the garage as needed.

If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. Take care!

Greg @ DI

[Dukat]

Thanks for the detailed & fast response Greg!

Can anyone confirm if the X3's leather is 'Finished/Coated' leather or 'Naked/Unfinished' leather?

[Detailed Image]

Glad that info helped. To be certain I would look at the owner's manual or contact the dealership.

Greg @ DI

[woodpecka]

Greg,

Can I use the 303 Aerospace to clean the interior trip wrapped with CF Fabric?

Cheers

Eric

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by woodpecka

Greg,

Can I use the 303 Aerospace to clean the interior trip wrapped with CF Fabric?

Cheers

Eric

Eric,

The 303 Aerospace Protectant is almost exclusively a protectant, so I don't usually use that for any kind of cleaning if that is the 303 product you are referring to. I also would not use it on any kind of fabric at all, it should be used on vinyl, plastic, most leathers and rubber surfaces. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

[woodpecka]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Eric,

The 303 Aerospace Protectant is almost exclusively a protectant, so I don't usually use that for any kind of cleaning if that is the 303 product you are referring to. I also would not use it on any kind of fabric at all, it should be used on vinyl, plastic, most leathers and rubber surfaces. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

So, what would you use to protect the CF fabric?

Thanks for the info!

[Detailed Image]

First off to be clear I have yet to actually clean this material but from what I have read this is what I would try. I would most likely use a very soft brush on it for maintenance cleanings. It will help release contaminants trapped on the surface. For stains and a deeper cleaning I would try the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover on it and possibly dilute it down, even though it's a pre-diluted cleaner. Test it on a small area first to make sure there are no issues before proceeding. You may also want to contact the mfgs for advice to be even safer. Keep us posted on what you try and how it works for you!

Greg @ DI

[schan]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Thank you for the inquiry I'd be happy to help. Car washes can be dangerous places for those of us who love our cars. We can definitely help you get your paint looking it's best again. Usually I recommend a full detail at least 1 - 2 times per year and then just wash and protect it as desired in between. A full detail to me consists of a wash, dry, clay bar, polish, sealant and/or wax. This process will deep clean the paint and make it really shine again while protecting it for months to come.

Wash/Dry - most swirls come from this process so quality products and techniques are critical. Check out our detailing guide for this step and other steps to maximize your efforts. Here are two awesome kits if interested.
DI Packages Washing and Drying Basic Kit
DI Packages Washing and Drying Starter Package

Clay Bar - This step deep cleans the paint so it's free from stubborn build ups not removed by the washing process. This may seem complicated or different but it's pretty simple and basic. In short spray some clay lube on the paint and glide the bar side to side and picks up micro contaminants in the paint. Here is an excellent value on a clay bar and lube - DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube.

Polish - This is the step where you really restore the paint to like new again. You can permanently remove swirls, oxidation, etc. not just temporarily hide them. I highly recommend you consider getting a Porter Cable (PC) as they are so easy to use, vastly improve your results while saving you time and energy. We have some affordable kits that give you the PC, backing plate, pads and polishes you would need here DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Starter Kit or DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads. Both kits give you the M105 and M205 polishes with the PC that are going to help you really restore the paint to like new. Best of all the PC is easy to use and completely safe even for a first time user. Again check out our detailing guide for step by step instructions and other helpful hints.

Protection - After polishing protect and enhance the shine with a sealant or wax. Waxes last about 2 - 6 weeks so we generally recommend a sealant which lasts 3 - 6 months. The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is my favorite sealant. It provides a remarkable shine with durable protection while easy to apply. You can apply it by hand or use a blue pad and your buffer. If you really want to you can apply a wax on top of the sealant for added protection and shine. The Poorboy's World Liquid Natty's Blue Wax is a great option for a quality liquid wax that works on all colors. If you want a bit more gloss from a paste wax try the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax or any of the Dodo Juice waxes. These options are applied by hand only but the exceptional gloss makes it well worth it.

I hand remove all of the excess product with a clean DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel. These towels are paint safe and help quickly remove the left over clay lube, polish, sealant, etc. I'd suggest getting about 5x - 10x of them.

Now step back and admire how awesome your vehicle looks. If you have any other questions please let me know!

Take care!

Greg @ DI

Thanks Greg. I tried purchasing what you recommend and applying the e90 coupon code but that code doesn't work. Is there an updated code?

[Royal Flush]

Originally Posted by schan

Thanks Greg. I tried purchasing what you recommend and applying the e90 coupon code but that code doesn't work. Is there an updated code?

Coupon code should be "e90post" and not "e90", that might be where you're having a problem. It also won't work if another coupon is already applied.

(I just tried and it worked and message read "Coupon code E90POST applied!")

[schan]

Originally Posted by Royal Flush

Coupon code should be "e90post" and not "e90", that might be where you're having a problem. It also won't work if another coupon is already applied.

(I just tried and it worked and message read "Coupon code E90POST applied!")

Thanks. i made a typo. but even then i think it only applies to certain items? i try applying that coupon to a porter cable package but got "Discount codes do not apply to this item"

[Royal Flush]

Originally Posted by schan

Thanks. i made a typo. but even then i think it only applies to certain items? i try applying that coupon to a porter cable package but got "Discount codes do not apply to this item"

You're right that it applies to certain items. The coupon code doesn't apply to any "packages". If you purchase the Porter Cable separately, it would apply.

[Detailed Image]

The 10% off coupon code is e90post, but it doesn't apply to DI Packages, tools and sale items. If you enter in the code it will read applied and it will automatically apply to all the applicable items and exclude the exempt items. If you have any questions please let me know!

Greg @ DI