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      02-22-2013, 12:05 PM   #155
SHATX
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Sorry but I've been traveling for a bit. Trying to get caught up. If you still need help please PM me. Also, you should know that I believe BMW NA released a SIB for this issue as a recall recently.

Best!
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      04-03-2013, 09:11 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHATX View Post
Sorry but I've been traveling for a bit. Trying to get caught up. If you still need help please PM me. Also, you should know that I believe BMW NA released a SIB for this issue as a recall recently.

Best!
Here is some Recall source data.
Recall Campaign No. 13V-044: Power Supply System
http://www.bmwusa.com/standard/conte...er/recall.aspx
Attached Images
File Type: pdf RCAK-13V044-6848.pdf (49.7 KB, 891 views)
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      04-05-2013, 12:18 AM   #157
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FYI, the letter I got from BMW said they would reimburse repair costs... so you guys will want to look into that ASAP (there is a time limit)
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      04-05-2013, 12:33 AM   #158
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Wow you have a lot of tolerance. A problem like that would drive me nuts!

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Originally Posted by wren57 View Post
Don't ask questions, just enjoy!

About once every two months my radio will stop working for a day... no sound, no sirius, nothing... but then it magically works again the next day. Not a big enough problem to tear the car apart for.
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      05-10-2013, 09:57 AM   #159
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THANK YOU

I am new to the joys of BMW ownership with the purchase of a 2009 328i in February. Never thought I would be stranded multiple times by an issue like this, but I want to thank you all for posting your "fixes" and suggestions.

I used bmwparts.com to order the distributor and the b+ cable. I was so worried that the cost would prohibit me from being able to buy them both at one time, but $220 later, I will have them in three days.

Thanks so much!
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      08-20-2013, 09:43 PM   #160
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I have had the recall performed but am still having the problem. Usually it manifests itself by me going out to the car in the morning and having to reset the clock but this afternoon the car was totally dead after sitting for an hour. I wiggled the power cable and nothing happened but then when I gave up and shut the door all the lights came on and the car was fine. Could this still be the problem after having the recall performed? The battery was replaced 5 months ago so I don't think it is the problem.

My car is not under warranty so how should I bring this up to the dealership that performed the warranty work? Anything else to check before discussing with them? I don't want to shell out money just to have them say there is no problem.

Thanks, Jeff
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      08-23-2013, 10:01 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFAJeff View Post
I have had the recall performed but am still having the problem. Usually it manifests itself by me going out to the car in the morning and having to reset the clock but this afternoon the car was totally dead after sitting for an hour. I wiggled the power cable and nothing happened but then when I gave up and shut the door all the lights came on and the car was fine. Could this still be the problem after having the recall performed? The battery was replaced 5 months ago so I don't think it is the problem.

My car is not under warranty so how should I bring this up to the dealership that performed the warranty work? Anything else to check before discussing with them? I don't want to shell out money just to have them say there is no problem.

Thanks, Jeff
Sounds like you still have the same problem .. did they change the B+ cable and fuse box in the recall?

If they only changed your battery in the recall then that wont solve the issue. The problem is the B+ connector slightly melting at the connection and then when it cools it fuses the connection point apart causing an inconsistent connection.

This is what mine looked like when i cut it off:

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      08-27-2013, 10:29 AM   #162
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I think they changed the cable as I can see where it has been cut and put back together near the fuse box. I am unsure if they replaced the fuse box.

The car seems to be dead most frequently when it is very hot out (Over 100) and the other day it threw a p1515 check engine code while driving. The code cleared itself the next time I started the car.

Here is another weird thing I have found. When the car is dead I can get it to come back to life about 90% of the time by opening and closing the trunk a couple of times (Using the key). The other 10% of the time I end up just waiting 15 minutes or so and it comes back to life on its own.

Last edited by SFAJeff; 08-27-2013 at 02:30 PM..
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      08-27-2013, 06:06 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFAJeff View Post
I think they changed the cable as I can see where it has been cut and put back together near the fuse box. I am unsure if they replaced the fuse box.

The car seems to be dead most frequently when it is very hot out (Over 100) and the other day it threw a p1515 check engine code while driving. The code cleared itself the next time I started the car.

Here is another weird thing I have found. When the car is dead I can get it to come back to life about 90% of the time by opening and closing the trunk a couple of times (Using the key). The other 10% of the time I end up just waiting 15 minutes or so and it comes back to life on its own.
If opening and closing the trunk is helping bring it back to life, double check that the B+ cable has been tightened properly at the battery as it will have been disconnected to do the repair.
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      12-22-2013, 11:52 AM   #164
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I've searched the net and this thread is hands-down the best source of info for the problem I'm having: I walked out yesterday morning and my 2008 M3 was dead as a doornail. I have a few questions for you guys:

1. I stripped by fuse box out and took a look at the red battery cable and connector. It is not discolored at all, nor does it look burnt. Can it still be faulty?

2. With the battery cable hooked up, I wanted to test to see if the fuse box was getting power. I used my voltometer and got 13 volts at back of the fuse box circuit board where the black box in the photo below is soldered in. Of the four connecter points, I only got power at one of them, so it looks like the main battery cable and connection is getting power to the fuse box. Can it still be faulty anyway? Also- what does that black box do? Could it be the prob?




3. The M3 is NOT covered under the terms of the recall due to this problem. I called BMW and they said they wouldn't cover the cost. I'm going to push on that, but: have other M3 owners had this problem, that was fixed by replacing the fusebox & cable?

4. Would this box have fuses in it that might have blown? The clips are impossible to get to, but if there's something in there I should check I'll figure it out. It's against the firewall under the hood, to the right of the ECU junction box:




Thanks!

Last edited by ChrisReg; 12-22-2013 at 12:30 PM..
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      12-22-2013, 01:05 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisReg View Post
I've searched the net and this thread is hands-down the best source of info for the problem I'm having: I walked out yesterday morning and my 2008 M3 was dead as a doornail. I have a few questions for you guys:

1. I stripped by fuse box out and took a look at the red battery cable and connector. It is not discolored at all, nor does it look burnt. Can it still be faulty?

2. With the battery cable hooked up, I wanted to test to see if the fuse box was getting power. I used my voltometer and got 13 volts at back of the fuse box circuit board where the black box in the photo below is soldered in. Of the four connecter points, I only got power at one of them, so it looks like the main battery cable and connection is getting power to the fuse box. Can it still be faulty anyway? Also- what does that black box do? Could it be the prob?




3. The M3 is NOT covered under the terms of the recall due to this problem. I called BMW and they said they wouldn't cover the cost. I'm going to push on that, but: have other M3 owners had this problem, that was fixed by replacing the fusebox & cable?

4. Would this box have fuses in it that might have blown? The clips are impossible to get to, but if there's something in there I should check I'll figure it out. It's against the firewall under the hood, to the right of the ECU junction box:




Thanks!
Hi Chrisreg,

As you have done the voltage test are any electrics working in the car at all?

Did you try wiggling the b+ cable (red cable) connector where it plugs into the back of the fuse box?

I don't believe that the black box is an issue i think that, that is a relay for the wipers or something like that. If the fusebox was getting power i don't think all the electrics would be dead.

Steve
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      12-22-2013, 01:32 PM   #166
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Thanks Steve,
That's what has me confused- no electronics work at all, but, the fuse box seems to be getting power, at least to the black box. I did try the wiggle thing before taking everything apart but it didn't help. But, since the fuse box appears to be getting power, I don't think that is the issue. One other item: over the past few weeks, my clock wouldn't stay set, which suggests power was going off from time to time.
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      12-22-2013, 01:43 PM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisReg View Post
Thanks Steve,
That's what has me confused- no electronics work at all, but, the fuse box seems to be getting power, at least to the black box. I did try the wiggle thing before taking everything apart but it didn't help. But, since the fuse box appears to be getting power, I don't think that is the issue. One other item: over the past few weeks, my clock wouldn't stay set, which suggests power was going off from time to time.
No problem,

Yeh thats definitely a tell tail sign when the clock resets. I would say it seems like you have the same issue and even if its not your not getting any power to the car so it would appear that fusebox is possibly faulty.

Personally I would say do the fix with replacing the fusebox and cable connector anyway .. its abit fiddly but not rocket science by any means lol ..

Steve
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Last edited by StevieB; 12-22-2013 at 01:51 PM..
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      01-07-2014, 11:38 AM   #168
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Any M3s have this problem?

BMW USA is telling me that since the M3 isn't covered under the recall, they won't cover the cost of repairs. Have any M3 owners had this problem and fixed it by replacing the fuse box and cable? My M3 is a 2008, so it's within the date-range of the recall for the 3 series.
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      01-07-2014, 11:40 AM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisReg View Post
BMW USA is telling me that since the M3 isn't covered under the recall, they won't cover the cost of repairs. Have any M3 owners had this problem and fixed it by replacing the fuse box and cable? My M3 is a 2008, so it's within the date-range of the recall for the 3 series.
Try and contact someone high up in BMW..
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      01-07-2014, 12:49 PM   #170
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I would be pissed, go high in the BMW chain.
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      01-13-2014, 10:59 AM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevieB View Post
Try and contact someone high up in BMW..
Working on it now. I called and asked the question: "Is the fuse box and battery cable in my 2008 M3 the same as those in the 3 series of the same year?". I was told it would take 2-3 days to get an answer to that question. That was 1 week ago. I've been calling once a day ever since.

Will update when I get a response. In the meantime, does anyone know of an official source that would confirm that the parts are the same?
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      01-13-2014, 05:31 PM   #172
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Update: BMW called back and refused to confirm whether the part was the same. They said: "All we can do is recommend that you use OEM replacement parts."

I called my local dealer and it seems that the battery cable is the same, but the fuse box, at least now, is different. This might be because the fuse box for all other E93s was redesigned after the recall and now has a new part#, while the M3 still has the same old fuse box. I'm not sure.

In any event, I found the recall info for the 3 series on safecar.gov:

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/...000&refurl=rss

If that link doesn't work, go to the website and enter this number as the NHTSA Campaign Number: 13V044000.

There are detailed repair instructions and other documents there.

Also, I reported the M3 issue to the NHTSA for them to investigate. If you know of any M3 owners who have had the same problem, please ask them to report it at www.safecar.gov.
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      02-24-2014, 01:10 PM   #173
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i have the same issue

hey guys,
I have the same issue but I am here in the UK. Unfortunately for me, this issue has not been a recall here and I have just come out of warranty a few months ago. BMW have been terrible to me and are not willing to help in any way possible.

My battery lead and fuse box have melted and are stuck together. I have ordered the parts today but was wondering if someone can send me the DIY steps quoted in the thread.

email: j.kassam@me.com

its a bit different as my steering wheel is on the other side so replacing the lead is going to be a massive headache.

Any help is greatly appreciated
Jay
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      02-24-2014, 01:19 PM   #174
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This is a free recall that takes about 30 minutes of your time at a BMW dealership in the US. There is no reason not to have this recall work done- on their nickel.
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      03-13-2014, 01:42 PM   #175
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I have 07 328i which is built in Nov 2006. BMW says this fusebox recall does not apply to my car as it is not built after 03/07, but I have the same problem.

Is the fusebox connection any different for cars built before 03/07? Is part number used to be different, or different kind of connection?
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      04-08-2014, 03:57 PM   #176
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Checked the fuse box. It is different for my model

I opened the glove box and checked to see how it is different from recalled one. The one in my car has bolting mechanism. I am still not sure if fusebox is the issue any more. It is still possible that it is still has loose contact behind the bolt. I checked tightened battery bolts. Everything looks good. This episode is not repeated again. Hoping that is something fluke and does not happen again.

Thx
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