[BAYsic]

I am making my first foray into the polishing arena. I will be using a PC 7424XP with Meg's 5 inch backing plate on a Sparkling Graphite e93.

The car (sadly) has never been garaged. The paint is in surprisingly really good condition. It is already smooth as glass and has been sealed with BFWD the whole time I have owned it.

Recently, I noticed some swirl marks that are very very light. Even though I know exactly where they are, I still have trouble seeing them unless the sun is hitting them just right and I have the perfect angle.

The swirl marks are so light, that I don't think I will need a compound. I was hoping to just hit the car with some 106FA or M205, then apply my BFWD. If I do need a compound, I am leaning towards D300 as I hear it is pretty easy to use and good for beginners like me.

Would these finishing polishes take out light swirls or is a comound necessary? Lastly, if I opt to go with the full Meg's MF Correction System, would I be able to lay the BFWD down as an LSP or will it not bond with the D301? I have seen posts, and am assuming, that there will be bonding issues, but I have also read many DIYs re the MF system where a carnuba or sealant was used over the D301.

Any help would be appreciated.

[BAYsic]

Also, I am planning on using a white pad with the finishing polish and a black finishing pad to add the sealant. Does anyone see a possible problem with this?

[OTD]

sounds good! but I wouldn't use D301 and top it with a wax. I would IPA wipe-down the whole vehicle before LSP or using a specific paint cleanser before LSP.

[tofu-]

Originally Posted by OTD

sounds good! but I wouldn't use D301 and top it with a wax. I would IPA wipe-down the whole vehicle before LSP or using a specific paint cleanser before LSP.

i like to use prep-sol. it's magical.

some compounds/polishes don't respond to rubbing alcohol

[BAYsic]

So do you both think I can skip the compound step completely?

Here is what I propose:

Wash/dry
Clay
106fa or M205
Wipe down or paint cleanser
BFWD

Any word on how well the 106fa or 205 respond to IPA?

[kjang]

Originally Posted by BAYsic

So do you both think I can skip the compound step completely?

Here is what I propose:

Wash/dry
Clay
106fa or M205
Wipe down or paint cleanser
BFWD

Any word on how well the 106fa or 205 respond to IPA?

Compounding is only for heavy defects. You will be fine with those 2 finer polishes you mentioned. Of course, I can't guarantee that 100% without seeing the swirl marks you mentioned.

[tofu-]

try it and see what happens. you may only need to compound certain areas. probably don't need to hit the entire car

[BAYsic]

Great, thanks for everyone's help. I am going to pick up some D300 and the Meg's MF pad that goes along with it just to have in my arsenal. I might not need it this time around, but it will be good to have just in case.

While I really want to try out the 106FA, I think I will likely go with the M205 since it is much easier to find and considerably cheaper. Once I learn what I am doing, I will try to play around with the higher end products.

I have read and watched a bunch of tutorials regarding the D300 and most of them say to prime (by spreading it around with my fingers until the full pad is covered) the MF pad before use and then just use 3-4 drops per section. Am I correct in assuming that I should use this same technique when using the M205 on the white foam pad? Do I also use the same technique when using a black finishing pad apply the BFWD as an LSP?

As you can probably tell, this will be my first time with a DA so I am paranoid about using the machine correctly.

[kjang]

Originally Posted by BAYsic

I have read and watched a bunch of tutorials regarding the D300 and most of them say to prime (by spreading it around with my fingers until the full pad is covered) the MF pad before use and then just use 3-4 drops per section. Am I correct in assuming that I should use this same technique when using the M205 on the white foam pad? Do I also use the same technique when using a black finishing pad apply the BFWD as an LSP?

Generally, the pad should be slightly damp so that the dry fibers don't end up scratching the paint. I usually spritz my polishing pads with water or quick detailer and pat the pad with my hand a few times. For the LSP, the black finishing pad is pretty soft and I have not had problems with just dispensing the lsp in a big "x".

[TOGWT]

One of the most often asked questions; “What polish / pad combination should I use to remove scratches?”

There are far too many variables to state this accurately.

Diagnosis is the key, not guess work; before deciding on what products to use ascertain the paint surface conditions and your goals for the paint finish. And then proceed with the least abrasive product / pad combination

Differing density (hardness) of paints react differently to correction, so before beginning to polish measure the paint thickness (PTG) panel by panel to ensure that you do not select an aggressive polish that will remove too much clear coat

The key to the polishing process is to know how the paint will react with each pad / polish combination you consider using. You must know your product and what its capabilities are before using it. This is why a ‘test’ spot is so important. The factors that affect the outcome -speed, friction (kinetic energy) applied pressure, foam pad actual surface contact area, pad grit number (abrasive ability) amount of surface lubrication available, the surface area and heat conductivity of material

Select a ‘typical’ panel; one that represents the type of defects that you want to remove and the finish level required. Select an area of 18 x 18-inches and tape it off with painter’s tape, as this is an optimal working section to perform a product test spot; this will help establish a polish – pad combination that will produce the best possible finish that corresponds to your detailing goals for the vehicle.

Pay attention to how the paint is responding to your inputs. Stop and evaluate your progress, once this is established; repeat the process over the entire paint surface, adjusting abrasiveness for any low paint thickness.

There may be some areas that have deeper scratches, which will necessitate a more abrasive polish. This is known a ‘spot-correction’. Once this area(s) are completed revert to the original polish / pad combination, there is no need to remove any more clear coat than is necessary

Normal Polishing area - 18 x 182- inches is optimal although a slightly larger area could be used

[Envious Eric]

in my experience, 205 and 106 will do nothing for the correction on your paint. Its on the harder side, which is where D300 will come in handy as it has good cutting ability, yet finishes off very well! I wouldnt stop at D300, but some have and liked the results, I would go D300/mf and then 106/black pad

[BAYsic]

Supplies have been ordered. I am going with the D300/MF pad followed by M205/black pad (or white if I need something more aggressive), then BFWD/blue pad.

@Envious Eric, I really wanted to try out that 106 as a finishing polish, but given that I am buying the DA and all these pads, polishes and backing plates as a single investment, something had to give. As I get more into detailing, I hope to start playing with the Menzerna products.

[Envious Eric]

I can always mail you some if you would like...like a 4oz sample, which will give you about 4 times around your car...