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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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08-19-2008, 09:22 PM | #595 | |
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its all good :P |
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08-20-2008, 06:12 AM | #596 | ||||
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Yes, the ISA mix with water was a 1:1 ratio. Quote:
Hope this helps! George |
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08-24-2008, 12:33 PM | #597 |
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I just bought a flex 3401 used and I've never used one before. Im a beginner and I want something simple like an all in one polish/cleaner then a glaze. My car is an 07 alpine white and the paint is in overall good shape. Some haze you can see in certain lighting. I want all that gone and I want a nice deep finish(as deep as alpine white can be). Im also wondering what pads I should use. thanks in advance for your help. I need to get the stuff I need soon because the polisher should be here any day. I might even get it overnighted.
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08-25-2008, 05:12 PM | #598 | |
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For abrasive AIO products, your selection is pretty limited and your results will not be as good if you break it up into a quality finishing polish and a good sealant. If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask. Enjoy the Flex! George |
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08-27-2008, 12:19 PM | #599 |
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George,
I just got a hold of a Makita 9227. What parts would I need to get started? It comes with a 7" backing plate. I believe I need a 6"or smaller. i.e. 5" BP with a 6" pad etc..... Do you have the stuff I need on your site? Please advise!
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08-28-2008, 01:24 AM | #600 |
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hey george, I got the gilmour foamaster II foam gun thing from you guys. i followed all the directions, but i still can't seem to get it to work. it just sprays out water when i pull the trigger and no foam/car shampoo whatsoever. . I attached everything correctly including the siphon tube, the spray gun trigger, and I even set it at the setting where it dilutes the liquid inside the container the least. i dont know what to do :/.
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08-28-2008, 01:59 AM | #601 |
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Hi George,
I was wondering what to do to remove light swirls off of the interior wood. I know they have a finish on them, would a regular light polish by hand do the trick? Thanks again for the last order - I'm planning on placing another order next week for pads and some Purple Haze
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08-28-2008, 02:00 AM | #602 | |
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2008 e92 335i Step | Is Gone - It was fun but not meant to be | M3 - Cancelled | 135 Ordered
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08-28-2008, 10:49 AM | #603 | |
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If I begin with the Menzerna polishes, what glaze / sealants might you recommend? The car is sparkling graphite - I've heard Klasse can be messy, would Jetseal or Blackfire be good starting points for sealant? As for glaze, do you recommend Menzerna if using their polish compounds? Thanks again for the patience in and shared insights! |
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08-28-2008, 12:04 PM | #604 |
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08-30-2008, 12:06 PM | #605 |
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any suggestions for getting wheels to shine again?
Iforged wheel with deep lip....steel appears to be "cloudy" and or dull finish after 12 months.... |
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08-30-2008, 07:51 PM | #606 | |||||
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Here's a blurb I just put together for another forum I'm on which sums up some polish and pad recommendations. When polishing with a buffer, I'd highly recommend using the Menzerna line of polishes. They are designed specifically to work with buffers, used by many high end professional detailers, and are known as some of the finest polishes available. Here are a few suggestions. Best Possible Combination: Compound - Power Gloss Medium Cut Polish - Super Intensive Polish Finishing Polish - PO106FF/FA Burnishing Polish - PO85RD Great Bang for the Buck Combo: Compound - Power Gloss Medium Cut Polish - Intensive Polish Finishing Polish - Final Polish II Lake Country pad recommendations for each polish in order of most aggressive to least aggressive: Power Gloss - Purple Foamed Wool, Yellow Cutting Pad, Orange Light Cutting Pad Super Intensive Polish - Purple Foamed Wool, Orange Light Cutting Pad, White Polish Pad Intensive Polish - Purple Foamed Wool, Orange Light Cutting Pad, White Polishing Pad PO106FF/FA - White Polishing Pad, Black Finishing Pad, Blue Fine Finishing Pad Final Polish II - White Polishing Pad, Black Finishing Pad, Blue Fine Finishing Pad PO85RD - Black Finishing Pad, Blue Fine Finishing Pad I've bolded the most common pads I use with each product. If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask. Quote:
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Sorry for being slow to reply on some of these posts. Hope everyone has a safe and happy Labor Day Weekend! George |
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08-30-2008, 11:09 PM | #607 | |
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08-31-2008, 12:11 AM | #608 | |
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Is the following fine?: polish wipe down w/ ipa/water OR wipe down w/ Menzerna Top Inspection Since the purpose of these are to remove all oils so you can have the most honest review of the polishing you just did (section by section), I would believe one of these are recommended over a CW&G or CW&C wash, since you can't wash until you've polished the entire car, and the whole point is to review your polishing work section by section. Thanks. |
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08-31-2008, 09:38 AM | #609 | |
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Your technique is perfectly fine. I was simply saying that any one of those methods would help remove polishing oils and give you a properly prepped surface before applying a glaze, sealant or wax. You wouldn't do multiple prep steps, just pick one. I was just saying there are options to remove oils from the polishes. I personally opt for the Isopropyl Alcohol or Top Inspection to inspect your work for holograms, micro-marring, basically any imperfections that the oils in the polish may fill before moving onto the next section. The reason you may use more than one (which wasn't what I was trying to get across in the post you quoted) was after you polish a section, you want to check to see if you rid the imperfections, so you wipe down with some IPA, inspect, if satisfied move onto the next section. Well by the time your done, no matter how well you clean up after polishing, there still is probably polishing dust in the cracks, crevices, trim, on glass, etc. So opting for a rewash with CG CW&G /CW&C is a great way to rid the dusting still remaining on the vehicle (after all of the excess polish has been removed on each panel). So in this case, you would be wiping down each panel before moving onto the next with IPA/Top Inspection, then re-washing when completely done before moving to the next step. Just to restate, after polishing, you can use one of the following to remove polishing oils from the paint:
Then after polishing is completed, you may opt to rewash the car to remove any polishing dust or debris that settled during the polishing steps. Hope this clears things up. George |
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08-31-2008, 12:10 PM | #610 |
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Thanks, George. I thought that's what you were saying.
Re: the Chemical Guy's CW&C, the product description states that it does not dry trim. What is your experience w/ this? If it removes leftover polish from the paint, it seems it would also have some effect on my trim. Especially if I wash the car w/ the concentrated solution (2oz/gallon) to begin the detailing, then another concentrated washing after the polishing, I'm thinking that will strip my trim to some degree. I guess I'll find out when I use it. I like that most of my trim restorer remains on my trim/rubber after I wash the car w/ my Poorboy's World SS&S. |
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09-01-2008, 11:56 AM | #611 | |
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Let us know how it goes. George |
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09-02-2008, 01:11 PM | #612 |
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George, earlier this year, the heater core failed in my older car. Not sure if you are familiar with what happens, but basically you end up w/ coolant being exposed into the vehicle's heating channel, and thus the cabin - horrible smell that lasts months until completely gone (certainly not heathy), as well as a film that gets all over your windows (this also prevents your defroster from working).
After having the core replaced, over the next many months, I thought I had removed all the film, but lately noticed a very fine film over one window in particular that I just could not remove. Windex did nothing. But if I rubbed my finger over it, it would smudge, so I knew it was something on the window that I should be able to remove. I bought your Stoner Invisible Glass. I honestly did not know that windows could get so clean. Wow. That, along with a clean mf towel removed the film immediately and completely. Great product. |
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09-03-2008, 08:22 AM | #613 | |
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George |
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09-03-2008, 09:35 PM | #614 |
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Hi George,
First let me say I think it's great that you're getting online and answering our questions as simple as they may be. Anyway, couple weeks ago I picked up my new car (BMW, dealer detailed), then a week later I washed it nice and clean. Couple days later the wind picked up at my parents house and blew their lawn sprinklers all over the side of my car. Should I start by claying the spots off or try just a AIO polish first? As for the windows, I am going to try a 50/50 vinegar water mix. Thanks in advance! ~Ryan Edit: I haven't purchased any of the detailing supplies yet, but have browsed around your store. Any suggestions would be much appreciated! |
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09-04-2008, 02:42 AM | #615 |
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This doesn't speak to Ryan's comment, but it did make me think of this. My wife and I were at a local BMW dealer recently looking at the 1s and 3s, brand new, and at this time we were standing near about 6 or so 3 coupes, mostly 335s, and every single one of them - every one - had swirls. These are brand new, never been owned. I don't think they left final assembly in that condition. It's shocking, really, that not one employee with appropriate authority cares enough to do something about the dealer prep process. I've seen this at more than 1 BMW dealer.
But then again, what would all us detailers do with our new cars if they came to us swirl-free??? |
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09-04-2008, 09:13 AM | #616 | ||
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Using a clay bar could be beneficial on a new car if you haven't clayed it yet. A lot of time new vehicles arrive with rail dust and other contamination from transporting the car. It could help remove mineral deposits that have settled onto your car. Claying before hand would ensure you'd get maximum durability out of the protection. The AIO would be another good option to remove water spots. I turn to Klasse All In One when I am looking for a chemical polish. It will also help brighten the paint and provide you with a base coat to build off of for a sealant or wax on top or it can be used stand alone as a coat of protection. Keep us posted on what you end up using and if it removes the water spots. If none of those methods work, your next step is to use the appropriate abrasive products on the marks. This would be required if the water spots etched into your paint already. If you need a hand with anything else detailing related, let me know. Enjoy the new BMW! Quote:
George |
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