[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by ericosaur

Alright, so I can use the Citrus wash and clear (high concentration), re-clay, and wipe it down with 50/50 iso alochol and distilled water mix; and this should be enough to get rid of the Zaino?

I just dont understand how using TAW and polishing the paint does to get rid of zaino? sorry newbie here.

And I can't wait to begin using DoDo juice after using the flex 3401 to polish

You certainly will have no Zaino remaining after using the three things mentioned (wash / clay / iso), in fact, you could probably get away with not re-claying if you just did it recently.

Polishing utilizes abrasives to remove imperfections in your paint. As you polish with the Flex, the abrasives would cut through the coats of protection like a warm knife through butter. TAW is a citrus degreaser that would act similarly to using Dawn on your paint.

I'm looking forward to hearing (and hopefully seeing) your results after using the Flex with the Menzerna polishes and following up with Dodo. Should look stunning!

George

[ericosaur]

Thank you George!

I took pictures of the zaino end product, but I will post when i have the end result of polish and dodo juice for a 'before and after' comparison of using a sealant vs. a wax.


eric

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by ericosaur

Thank you George!

I took pictures of the zaino end product, but I will post when i have the end result of polish and dodo juice for a 'before and after' comparison of using a sealant vs. a wax.

eric

Looking forward to it Eric. Keep us posted

George

[teej361]

I'm detailing my brother's car for a car show and just got done claying. I was wondering if I need to use a cleaner wax after claying or is ok to just start polishing? TIA

[335inAZ]

Hey Guys - I am taking delivery of a Jet Black 335 tomorrow. The car is very dirty, should I allow them to clean only the inside or both. I am not too crazy about the car having to look perfect but I HATE swirl marks. Any suggestions would be awesome.

Also I am getting the beige/cream interior. Is it really hard to keep clean?

Thanks again!!!!

[gravediggingaditch]

Originally Posted by 335inAZ

Hey Guys - I am taking delivery of a Jet Black 335 tomorrow. The car is very dirty, should I allow them to clean only the inside or both. I am not too crazy about the car having to look perfect but I HATE swirl marks. Any suggestions would be awesome.

Also I am getting the beige/cream interior. Is it really hard to keep clean?

Thanks again!!!!

I didn't let them touch the car. All plastic was left on it. DONT LET THEM TOUCH IT!

[teej361]

Originally Posted by gravediggingaditch

I didn't let them touch the car. All plastic was left on it. DONT LET THEM TOUCH IT!

+1

[335inAZ]

Problem is it is from the floor so the only plastic is on the carpets. I really dont want to spend time cleaning a BRAND NEW car tomorrow or take the time to get it detailed....what to dooooo?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by teej361

I'm detailing my brother's car for a car show and just got done claying. I was wondering if I need to use a cleaner wax after claying or is ok to just start polishing? TIA

No need to use a cleaner wax prior to polishing. If you were going to use a cleaner wax, it would be after polishing to help remove any polishing oils and residue to help prep the paint for a coat of wax. Post up some pictures of your hard work when your done

Originally Posted by 335inAZ

Hey Guys - I am taking delivery of a Jet Black 335 tomorrow. The car is very dirty, should I allow them to clean only the inside or both. I am not too crazy about the car having to look perfect but I HATE swirl marks. Any suggestions would be awesome.

Also I am getting the beige/cream interior. Is it really hard to keep clean?

Thanks again!!!!

If you HATE swirl marks, then I'd suggest not having the dealership prep your paint. Chances are if it's dirty now, they can easily grind that dirt into your paint creating a nasty finish that you may not realize until after a few washes. A few dealerships have a decent detailing facility, but I wouldn't count on it.

Congrats on the new BMW.

George

[UncleWede]

ScheerSpeed, another customer! If it's been on the floor, it's got scratches . . . sorry.

[teej361]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

No need to use a cleaner wax prior to polishing. If you were going to use a cleaner wax, it would be after polishing to help remove any polishing oils and residue to help prep the paint for a coat of wax. Post up some pictures of your hard work when your done


George

I would take pics, but the car is taped up for the car show. I'm sure my brother will take pics. If he does, I'll post some up.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by teej361

I would take pics, but the car is taped up for the car show. I'm sure my brother will take pics. If he does, I'll post some up.

Sounds good!

George

[SpecC]

Hey George, I see a lot of people putting on two coats of sealant that are 12-24 hours apart. I know why you let it stay that long, but what's the point of two coats of sealant. Since most sealants don't give the car more "pop" what's the point of another layer of protection that won't last longer? It's only going to last as long as the first coat. Or am I wrong with that assumption?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by SpecC

Hey George, I see a lot of people putting on two coats of sealant that are 12-24 hours apart. I know why you let it stay that long, but what's the point of two coats of sealant. Since most sealants don't give the car more "pop" what's the point of another layer of protection that won't last longer? It's only going to last as long as the first coat. Or am I wrong with that assumption?

Some sealants, after allowing for the proper cure time can be layered for increased shine and longer durability, a good example, Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze. Another reason detailers often apply two coats of sealant is to ensure full coverage on the vehicle. Performing two coats prior to the proper curing time will not enhance the finish or increase protection, it would simply ensure even coverage. Some sealants, even if you waited the proper cure time, won't have much added benefit of the second coat.

Carnauba waxes usually have a much bigger impact in terms of looks when adding 2 or 3 coats compared to a sealant.

Hope this helps.

George

[rtjones]

Hey George,

This is a 2-part question.

I found a reference to SIP that says it's cut is 3.5 of 5. If I use an orange pad, vs a white pad, does the bite increase? Will a black pad decrease the bite? In other words, does the pad effect the bite of a polish?

Part 2, is there a rule of thumb for increasing the coarseness/bite of the pad, vs the cutting ability of the polish? For example, if I'm using white/Menzerna PO106FF, and it's not quite removing all my scratches, how should I decide to choose between white/SIP or orange/106FF?

Thanks,
Ron

[SpecC]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Some sealants, after allowing for the proper cure time can be layered for increased shine and longer durability, a good example, Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze. Another reason detailers often apply two coats of sealant is to ensure full coverage on the vehicle. Performing two coats prior to the proper curing time will not enhance the finish or increase protection, it would simply ensure even coverage. Some sealants, even if you waited the proper cure time, won't have much added benefit of the second coat.

Carnauba waxes usually have a much bigger impact in terms of looks when adding 2 or 3 coats compared to a sealant.

Hope this helps.

George

got it. thanks george!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by rtjones

Hey George,

This is a 2-part question.

I found a reference to SIP that says it's cut is 3.5 of 5. If I use an orange pad, vs a white pad, does the bite increase? Will a black pad decrease the bite? In other words, does the pad effect the bite of a polish?

Part 2, is there a rule of thumb for increasing the coarseness/bite of the pad, vs the cutting ability of the polish? For example, if I'm using white/Menzerna PO106FF, and it's not quite removing all my scratches, how should I decide to choose between white/SIP or orange/106FF?

Thanks,
Ron

Ron, the charts that say Menzerna posts are describing what the polish is capable of removing. My guess is this would be the maximum cut a polish would have to offer. I know Menzerna formulates their polishes specifically for rotary buffer use, so if you're using say a Flex or PC, expect your "cut number" to be lower. Say Menzerna rates a polish to remove 2500 grit wet sanding marks, then don't expect it to remove 1500 grit wet sanding marks if you were to say move from an orange pad to a purple foamed wool pad. Everyone will rate the polishes differently too, for example, SIP is certainly not a 7 out of 10 in my book, which is what Menzerna would rate it if you scaled it to an out of 10 rating. In my book, I'd say SIP is more like a 5.5 of 10 in terms of cut.

There is no good answer to your second question. The best answer is trial and error with every (reasonable) combination you have access too and see what works best for your specific paint. What works on BMW paint isn't going to be the same as VW paint, which will be different than Mercedes paint, etc. Personally, I never would use a finishing polish with an orange pad, so you'd never see me recommend PO106FF with an orange pad. Some detailers will use it, sometimes with good results, but I feel the mis-match in aggressiveness can often cause unwanted micro-marring, hazing, hologramming after the polishing oils have fully been removed.

Best advice at this point is your own advice after experimenting a bit and noting your results. No amount of reading compares to real life experience.

George

[rtjones]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Ron, the charts that say Menzerna posts are describing what the polish is capable of removing. My guess is this would be the maximum cut a polish would have to offer. I know Menzerna formulates their polishes specifically for rotary buffer use, so if you're using say a Flex or PC, expect your "cut number" to be lower. Say Menzerna rates a polish to remove 2500 grit wet sanding marks, then don't expect it to remove 1500 grit wet sanding marks if you were to say move from an orange pad to a purple foamed wool pad. Everyone will rate the polishes differently too, for example, SIP is certainly not a 7 out of 10 in my book, which is what Menzerna would rate it if you scaled it to an out of 10 rating. In my book, I'd say SIP is more like a 5.5 of 10 in terms of cut.

There is no good answer to your second question. The best answer is trial and error with every (reasonable) combination you have access too and see what works best for your specific paint. What works on BMW paint isn't going to be the same as VW paint, which will be different than Mercedes paint, etc. Personally, I never would use a finishing polish with an orange pad, so you'd never see me recommend PO106FF with an orange pad. Some detailers will use it, sometimes with good results, but I feel the mis-match in aggressiveness can often cause unwanted micro-marring, hazing, hologramming after the polishing oils have fully been removed.

Best advice at this point is your own advice after experimenting a bit and noting your results. No amount of reading compares to real life experience.

George

Thanks, George. Re: the 2nd part, that makes sense, and was the answer I was kind of expecting.

Re: the first part, right - I wouldn't use purple/106FF, either. That was a bad example. Regardless of whether the polisher is a rotary, or PC, or Flex, are you saying that a less aggressive pad decreases the polish's effective cut, and thus the amount of clearcoat removed? Is this what is meant by the pad having more or less bite? Would orange/SIP remove more clearcoat than white/SIP? Thanks, George.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by rtjones

Thanks, George. Re: the 2nd part, that makes sense, and was the answer I was kind of expecting.

Re: the first part, right - I wouldn't use purple/106FF, either. That was a bad example. Regardless of whether the polisher is a rotary, or PC, or Flex, are you saying that a less aggressive pad decreases the polish's effective cut, and thus the amount of clearcoat removed? Is this what is meant by the pad having more or less bite? Would orange/SIP remove more clearcoat than white/SIP? Thanks, George.

You got it. If you are using SIP with an orange pad, you will remove more clear coat than SIP with a white pad (very small amount more, but you would be removing more). Yes, this is what I mean when I say changing the pad gives it more or less bite.

While it is always ideal practice to use the least aggressive combination to get the results you are looking for, time and tons of possible combinations don't always grant you that. Personally, I'd rather just do a heavy cut, remove as many imperfections as possible and maintain it properly from there out. The minimal amount of imperfections that would appear from properly washing your vehicle should not need anything more than PO106FF.

George

[rtjones]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

You got it. If you are using SIP with an orange pad, you will remove more clear coat than SIP with a white pad (very small amount more, but you would be removing more). Yes, this is what I mean when I say changing the pad gives it more or less bite.

While it is always ideal practice to use the least aggressive combination to get the results you are looking for, time and tons of possible combinations don't always grant you that. Personally, I'd rather just do a heavy cut, remove as many imperfections as possible and maintain it properly from there out. The minimal amount of imperfections that would appear from properly washing your vehicle should not need anything more than PO106FF.

George

I see. Very clear. I like your suggestion, going a bit on the heavy side initially, cleaning it up as much as possible, and then proper preventative maintenance from there. As always, thanks for your patience. Cheers...

[xoulu]

i got a white car and I have no clue on how to wash it but take it to a car wash and pay $11 for a machine wash...

I plan to wash it at home and wax it and polish it

what do you guys recommend to buy for soap wax and etc

and what are the steps? how do i polish or apply wax? how do I make it shiny and the paint look like new? Sorry for being a noob but i think my white e92 looks really dirty and need it to be clean... any pm would be great and any suggestions or recommended product or set would be great...

I have $400 to spend on making my car clean so dont be afriad =P

I took it in for a price for a detail and they want $400 to detail car inside out and I rather do it myself... so any other tips or suggestions?

[rtjones]

Originally Posted by xoulu

i got a white car and I have no clue on how to wash it but take it to a car wash and pay $11 for a machine wash...

I plan to wash it at home and wax it and polish it

what do you guys recommend to buy for soap wax and etc

and what are the steps? how do i polish or apply wax? how do I make it shiny and the paint look like new? Sorry for being a noob but i think my white e92 looks really dirty and need it to be clean... any pm would be great and any suggestions or recommended product or set would be great...

I have $400 to spend on making my car clean so dont be afriad =P

I took it in for a price for a detail and they want $400 to detail car inside out and I rather do it myself... so any other tips or suggestions?

George is the man to answer your main Q, but I'll just say that if you are willing to put forth the time and patience to learn how to properly detail your car, and then do it, it will prove to be an investment that will see dividends for years to come.