[lincoln]

Originally Posted by UncleWede

(have you ever used rubber squeegees to remove water?)
Please, don't do that to your car!!!

Blue finishing pad
If you don't have a polisher, you don't need a pad.

I didn't see anywhere that you have a bunch of MF towels. George has some nice ones, but Cosco has them in bulk as well. Can never have enough MF towels.

Can you elaborate on why you are against the squeegees? I don't think it scratches it, but I could be wrong.

Blue finishing pad to apply the sealant/wax, no? I was under the impression that this is what I was supposed to use?

Yes, I have a ton of MF towels.

Thank you.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by lincoln

Thanks again George (& Kgolf31). So I decided to get the following from your site and I'll order it in the next day or so.

Shampoo - I've heard you recommend CG CWG and Poorboy's SS&S. Not sure which I should get - I was leaning towards Poorboy's.

Clay - CG's blue & luber

Polish - I'm going to hold off on this until I think the paint needs it. I'm hoping by asking the dealership to bypass the prep and also apply some of the washing techniques I've learned on this forum as well as your website will help me put this off. Please chime in if you really think this is an important step I'm bypassing.

JetSeal 109 & CG 5050 wax.

Some miscellaneous products I'm picking up are:

Sheepskin mit (do you recommend this vs the ulti-mit?)
Waffle weave drying towel (have you ever used rubber squeegees to remove water?)
Wheel sealant
Blue finishing pad
Aerospace protectant.
Grit Guard

Thank you again for your time and answers!

Originally Posted by lincoln

Can you elaborate on why you are against the squeegees? I don't think it scratches it, but I could be wrong.

Blue finishing pad to apply the sealant/wax, no? I was under the impression that this is what I was supposed to use?

Yes, I have a ton of MF towels.

Thank you.

lincoln,

Thanks for the posts. Everything you picked out looks great.

Super Slick & Suds is a great maintenance wash soap that will maintain your coats of protection, easy to use and has lots of lubricity. CW&G works great in a foam gun or if your goal is to strip off any previous coats of protection to start fresh.

It's perfectly fine to hold off on polishing your vehicle right away. I'd monitor your paints finish and when the imperfections begin to bother you, then I'd suggest investing in a quality buffer and learn how to properly polish.

Your protection combo is great, you're going to love it. Remember these two things, thinner the better and wait 24 hours (after you've removed the excess product from your paint) before you put your wax on top of the coat of sealant.

The other list of products look great too. I'd suggest sticking with the sheepskin mitt in terms of minimizing imperfections. The Ulti-Mit is a great tool that I use for wheels and tires and lower panels. The biggest advantage the Ulti-Mit has over the sheepskin is the durability. As long as you rinse out any wash medium on a regular basis, you should be fine.

As UncleWede mentioned, you want to avoid squeegees at all costs. If you trap any contamination under the blade and drag it across your paint, you'll be sure to leave behind marring, swirls, scratches and other imperfections. In general, most imperfections come from the washing and drying process and any time you can avoid friction on the paint is a big plus.

Also, as UW said, blue finishing pads are only if you have a buffer. If you're applying the Jet Seal 109 and 50/50 wax by hand, then I'd suggest picking up some Lake Country foam applicator pads.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

[lincoln]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

lincoln,

Thanks for the posts. Everything you picked out looks great.

Super Slick & Suds is a great maintenance wash soap that will maintain your coats of protection, easy to use and has lots of lubricity. CW&G works great in a foam gun or if your goal is to strip off any previous coats of protection to start fresh.

It's perfectly fine to hold off on polishing your vehicle right away. I'd monitor your paints finish and when the imperfections begin to bother you, then I'd suggest investing in a quality buffer and learn how to properly polish.

Your protection combo is great, you're going to love it. Remember these two things, thinner the better and wait 24 hours (after you've removed the excess product from your paint) before you put your wax on top of the coat of sealant.

The other list of products look great too. I'd suggest sticking with the sheepskin mitt in terms of minimizing imperfections. The Ulti-Mit is a great tool that I use for wheels and tires and lower panels. The biggest advantage the Ulti-Mit has over the sheepskin is the durability. As long as you rinse out any wash medium on a regular basis, you should be fine.

As UncleWede mentioned, you want to avoid squeegees at all costs. If you trap any contamination under the blade and drag it across your paint, you'll be sure to leave behind marring, swirls, scratches and other imperfections. In general, most imperfections come from the washing and drying process and any time you can avoid friction on the paint is a big plus.

Also, as UW said, blue finishing pads are only if you have a buffer. If you're applying the Jet Seal 109 and 50/50 wax by hand, then I'd suggest picking up some Lake Country foam applicator pads.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

Thank you all for the information, I really appreciate it. I'm out of town, but will be putting in the order this week. Thanks again George and look forward to working with you for many years to come.

Regards,
Paul

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by lincoln

Thank you all for the information, I really appreciate it. I'm out of town, but will be putting in the order this week. Thanks again George and look forward to working with you for many years to come.

Regards,
Paul

Thanks for the kind words Paul. Be sure to keep us posted on your results once you get a chance to try everything out.

Cheers,

George

[uabimmer]

Hey George,
I've been reading this thread and must say THANK YOU
cause it has really been very informitive and also helped me decide on which products i would like to use on my vehicle.

Just today i ordered:
-Chemical Guys: Grime Reaper
-Poorboy's World: Bold 'n Bright
-Poorboy's World: Leather Stuff

btw- you really do have some competetive pricing


Thanks again for the info
-Roman

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by uabimmer

Hey George,
I've been reading this thread and must say THANK YOU
cause it has really been very informitive and also helped me decide on which products i would like to use on my vehicle.

Just today i ordered:
-Chemical Guys: Grime Reaper
-Poorboy's World: Bold 'n Bright
-Poorboy's World: Leather Stuff

btw- you really do have some competetive pricing


Thanks again for the info
-Roman

Roman,

Thanks for the kind words and your support. I shipped your order out today and you should have received your tracking number by now. If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

We greatly appreciate your support of Detailed Image.

Cheers,

George

[lincoln]

Last question!~ Do you recommend cleaning the applicator pads with LC snappy clean pad cleaner or is that just for the polishing pads? Thanks again!

Order placed, thanks!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by lincoln

Last question!~ Do you recommend cleaning the applicator pads with LC snappy clean pad cleaner or is that just for the polishing pads? Thanks again!

Order placed, thanks!

You definitely want to clean them, using the Snappy Clean is a good option. Personally, I'll soak them in water with a little degreaser, wring them out, repeat until clean, then let air dry. Ideally, put it in a Ziploc bag to prevent dust or other contamination from landing on the pad and label the bag with the product you used the applicator pad for.

Thanks for your support! Let us know how everything turns out.

George

[lincoln]

I've seen limited information on clear bra's from your thread. I understand you haven't had one personally. I plan on getting one. Do you recommend sealing/waxing before applying the clear bra? It might be a question better suited to the company applying it, but I didn't know if it would help/hinder application. The last thing I want is for the color not to match after I seal/wax the rest of the car. I'd obviously do the clear bra too, but it's not like I'm able to get to the paint underneath.

[oilcrankinject]

George,

I dont have any swirl marks just a few dings and lot of water marks from Louisana rain. Should I just a final polish since I dont need to buff out major things or should I wash, clay, then seal? I want these stupid water marks off.


Also, I will be moving back to Germany in June so in May I will ship my E92 off. Should I do a complete wash, clay, polish, seal, and wax session before so that I can make it easy to clean once it crosses the ocean?

[shakan]

Hi, I am new to this stuff and have a question regarding sealants. I ordered recently Jetseal 109 together with Optimum No Rinse. How often does it need to be applied - once a month or less/more frequently - e.g. after each wash or twice a year? Thanks!

[Tallest]

Hi George,
I've got a titanium silver E90. I'm planning to do my very first full detail job and am looking for few tips.

1. I plan to wash the car myself and wipe it down to have it ready for detail.
2. Next step is to clay the car. What kind of clay would you recommend that is not terribly expensive and would cover my car? Can clay be reused or I throw it away after I've done the car? Looking for brand suggestions, and I'm in Europe so I hope for some international brands. DOn't want to spend more then 100 USD on it. Can you also suggest the spraying solution for claying?
3. Wax - which is relatively affordble but gives good results - i.e. I don't want zymol for 300 usd per box, but may be something for about half that price max. Same suggestion for brands applies as above.

Thx!

[dannygenio]

Detailed Image,

Please give me some suggestions on your products.
1) Planning to detail my engine bay. ( I want those black plastic to be glossy).
2) I have a crimson Red exterior. What;s a good wax that will make it Bling Bling?
I am very tight on my budget...so please suggest me with something affordable.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by lincoln

I've seen limited information on clear bra's from your thread. I understand you haven't had one personally. I plan on getting one. Do you recommend sealing/waxing before applying the clear bra? It might be a question better suited to the company applying it, but I didn't know if it would help/hinder application. The last thing I want is for the color not to match after I seal/wax the rest of the car. I'd obviously do the clear bra too, but it's not like I'm able to get to the paint underneath.

When the installers prep the paint for the clear bra, they are going to strip off any protection that may be on your paint, so there's no reason to seal or wax it prior to the installation. What you do want to do is clay the area and polish it to remove any imperfections in the paint where the clear bra is going to be fitted on your car. If you don't remove the imperfections (swirls, scratches, water spots, etc.) they can often show through the clear bra and you won't be able to remove them unless you uninstall the clear bra and put a new one on. Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by svtfast

George,

I dont have any swirl marks just a few dings and lot of water marks from Louisana rain. Should I just a final polish since I dont need to buff out major things or should I wash, clay, then seal? I want these stupid water marks off.

Also, I will be moving back to Germany in June so in May I will ship my E92 off. Should I do a complete wash, clay, polish, seal, and wax session before so that I can make it easy to clean once it crosses the ocean?

A light finishing polish should do the trick for some water spots. It depends though if it's just mineral deposits left behind or if the water actually etched into the clear. If it's mineral deposits, you should be fine with a finishing polish or even a chemical polish. If it's etched, then you're going to need to use abrasive polishes and continue to work more aggressive until the marks are removed. I can't say without seeing it in person as each water spot case varies.

Yes, when you move it'll be good to have it protected as it crosses the ocean as you'll be exposing the vehicle to various forms of contamination. If the car is properly protected, it should remove pretty easily once you get back to Germany.

Originally Posted by shakan

Hi, I am new to this stuff and have a question regarding sealants. I ordered recently Jetseal 109 together with Optimum No Rinse. How often does it need to be applied - once a month or less/more frequently - e.g. after each wash or twice a year? Thanks!

Jet Seal 109 lasts roughly 3 - 4 months, so I'd recommend applying it once a season to ensure full coverage year round. The last thing you want to do is expose your paint to the elements without protection. Remember with Jet Seal 109, apply the product in thin coats for optimal results and ease of removal.

Originally Posted by 320what

Hi George,
I've got a titanium silver E90. I'm planning to do my very first full detail job and am looking for few tips.

1. I plan to wash the car myself and wipe it down to have it ready for detail.
2. Next step is to clay the car. What kind of clay would you recommend that is not terribly expensive and would cover my car? Can clay be reused or I throw it away after I've done the car? Looking for brand suggestions, and I'm in Europe so I hope for some international brands. DOn't want to spend more then 100 USD on it. Can you also suggest the spraying solution for claying?
3. Wax - which is relatively affordble but gives good results - i.e. I don't want zymol for 300 usd per box, but may be something for about half that price max. Same suggestion for brands applies as above.

Thx!

There are really only a few clay bar manufacturers in the US, so the clay we have here doesn't vary much from brand to brand. One of the standards in the industry is the Clay Magic Fine Grade Bar, which is $24.99 USD for 200g. I like pairing it up with Poorboy's Spray & Wipe as it has some great cleaning characteristics and it's extremely versatile for things other than a clay bar lubricant. When using it as a clay lube, I dilute S&W down 1:1 to stretch the product even further. It can be used as a waterless wash for light dustings or as a quick detailer.

You're going to have lots of wax options for the $150 mark and under. I personally think that Dodo Juice Supernatural v2 for $129.99 is one of the best waxes for under $150. Some other outstanding bang for the buck waxes: Chemical Guys 50/50 Paste Wax (16oz for $59.99), P21S 100% Carnauba Wax is another great higher quality, yet affordable wax.

Originally Posted by dannygenio

Detailed Image,

Please give me some suggestions on your products.
1) Planning to detail my engine bay. ( I want those black plastic to be glossy).
2) I have a crimson Red exterior. What;s a good wax that will make it Bling Bling?
I am very tight on my budget...so please suggest me with something affordable.

For your engine bay, consider Chemical Guys Fade 2 Black once the surface is properly cleaned. It'll give a fresh, glossy finish to all of your vinyl trim and hoses in your engine bay.

Bang for the buck wax for Crimson Red, consider Poorboy's Natty's Red Paste Wax. The key to getting the most out of this wax is very thin applications, remove it after you've applied it to 1 panel, and apply 2 - 3 coats spaced out 12 - 24 hours for maximum results. For under $25, its a top performing wax.

If any one has any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

[normtrum]

Hey George - wow it's been a long time since I've posted in this thread.

A few quick questions on your Vac 'n Go mini. On your site it states it "comes with a 19" hose". Is that supposed to be a 19' (ft vs inches) hose?

Also, does it come with a mounting bracket? I would like to mount it on a garage piler that sits between 2 of my cars.

Lastly, what are your thoughts on this vacuum? I've read a few reviews, and it looks pretty good. I only need it for my cars, and I was looking for something pretty small.

Thanks again for all your help!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by normtrum

Hey George - wow it's been a long time since I've posted in this thread.

A few quick questions on your Vac 'n Go mini. On your site it states it "comes with a 19" hose". Is that supposed to be a 19' (ft vs inches) hose?

Also, does it come with a mounting bracket? I would like to mount it on a garage piler that sits between 2 of my cars.

Lastly, what are your thoughts on this vacuum? I've read a few reviews, and it looks pretty good. I only need it for my cars, and I was looking for something pretty small.

Thanks again for all your help!

normtrum,

Good to hear from you. The Vac 'n Go has impressed me so far for being so small.

The hose is 19 inches, not 19 feet. From my use, I think the vacuum works better without the hose believe it or not. Simply attach the ending directly on the vacuum. Since the hose is short, you end up pulling the vacuum around so it's easier to just hold the vacuum by the handle to maneuver it.

This does not come with a mounting bracket unfortunately, you'd probably have to rig something up custom to get it to mount securely.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask. Great to hear from you. Have a great weekend.

George

[ejosh99]

Typical question: Electric Red, some light swirls. I already bought IP (from DI), kinda regret not getting SIP instead. Too late, however. Haven't got to test this out yet, hope its strong enough, paired with an orange LC pad. Will I need another polish to finish this? Or will the Klasse AIO (with a white pad) work for this application? Any other advice on the application of these? I plan to seal with Jetseal.

Also: how far will a panel pot of Dodo Juice go? Bout as much as one panel of the car? Further?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by ejosh99

Typical question: Electric Red, some light swirls. I already bought IP (from DI), kinda regret not getting SIP instead. Too late, however. Haven't got to test this out yet, hope its strong enough, paired with an orange LC pad. Will I need another polish to finish this? Or will the Klasse AIO (with a white pad) work for this application? Any other advice on the application of these? I plan to seal with Jetseal.

Also: how far will a panel pot of Dodo Juice go? Bout as much as one panel of the car? Further?

Good questions. The good thing is that IP has the same cutting ability as SIP, so you won't be missing out on the depth of imperfections that can be removed. SIP is more of a convenience in that it will work longer, dust less and finish down finer. Unfortunately, with regular IP, you're going to want to finish down with a less aggressive finishing polish. I'd recommend pairing it up with Menzerna PO106FF and a white pad. Klasse AIO doesn't contain abrasives, so chances are it won't be able to remove any micro-marring or hazing left behind from IP.

I'd expect between 5 - 10 coats from a Dodo Juice sample pot when used correctly. The key is to apply the wax as thin as possible and stretch it as far as you can. You're way better off with 2 ultra thin coats, than 1 thicker coat.

Be sure to keep us posted on what you end up using and how your results turn out.

George

[ejosh99]

I had no idea that the cutting power of IP was the same as SIP. How much more of a pain is IP going to be vs SIP? I'm pretty inexperienced with the random orbital polisher, only having used it once.

I also had no idea a panel pot would last this long. Perhaps I've applied waxes too thickly in the past. How would I know when I'm applying too thinly?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by ejosh99

I had no idea that the cutting power of IP was the same as SIP. How much more of a pain is IP going to be vs SIP? I'm pretty inexperienced with the random orbital polisher, only having used it once.

I also had no idea a panel pot would last this long. Perhaps I've applied waxes too thickly in the past. How would I know when I'm applying too thinly?

If you use the IP correctly, it's not a hard product to use at all. Problems typically come in when people over apply a product, don't fully break down the polish or work in too large of an area.

If you stick to 2 - 3 pea sized drops in a 12" x 12" to 18" x 18" working area, work the buffer at speed setting 5 or 6 and pass over each area 6 ~ 8 times while moving the buffer at 1" per second with roughly 15 lbs of pressure, you'll be very pleased with the results. Most people their first time polishing rush the process and are left with the polish not broken down completely, which leaves them with less than ideal results and a more difficult removal process.

When used correctly, the main difference between IP and SIP is that SIP will finish down finer, which in some cases on lighter colored paint, you may not need to follow up with a finishing polish. With IP, you almost always have to follow up with a finishing polish.

You'd know if you applied the wax too thin, your applicator pad would probably start to stick or skid across the paint and you wouldn't be able to see any wax residue on the surface. Sometimes it is difficult to see where you have waxed or haven't, which is why it's important to move in a methodical motion around the vehicle. Many enthusiasts over apply their products, which leads to a harder removal process and wasted product.

Hope this helps.

George

[Septro]

Just ordered the following from your site (great site btw George):

Chemical Guys: Jet Seal 109 - 16 oz
DI Microfiber: Microfiber Mini Glass Pad
DI Microfiber: Waffle Weave Drying Towel
DI Packages: Porter Cable 7424 Advanced Kit
Menzerna: Intensive Polish (IP)
Menzerna: PO106ff Ceramic Clear Coat Polish
Squash Air: Glare GV Squash Air Freshener

I have a couple of light swirl marks and water spots from the past year and have not ever polished/waxed my car. Since I have a black sapphire color - those imperfections tend to show easier than others.

I didn't get a wax yet since I can't seem to decide what would work best for me but I was leaning towards the 50/50 route. Maybe someone here could offer some advice what wax works well with JS109?

[canrhea]

do you have to wax the paint after using a clay bar on the car??
or would the quick detailer spray be ok?