[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Nebster

i've also used a q-tip to clean my gaps. At least with the doors, hood and trunk you can easily just open it up to clean the excess out. I find that the q-tip works well around the tailights and the bumpers / fenders. plus they're cheap and don't clog up a microfiber towel with products.

Good tip Nebster, thanks for sharing

George

[OEKlM]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Good tip Nebster, thanks for sharing

George

yeh thanks bro =)

[Nebster]

No problem.

George has been great to work with, a great vendor!

[Houman21]

Hey George,

Will this backing plate work with my makita 9227? I didn't know if the
threads are the same. Thanks.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Houman21

Hey George,

Will this backing plate work with my makita 9227? I didn't know if the
threads are the same. Thanks.

Yep, should work fine with the Makita 9227C, I have one for my Makita, works great.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

George

[Houman21]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Yep, should work fine with the Makita 9227C, I have one for my Makita, works great.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

George

Thanks George!

[Molos 2003]

I have been reading threads on care care for days now and everyone has convinced me I need a Power tool particulary the Porter Cable 7424.

I am looking at Autogeek right now. I like some of the combo deals, particulary the Pinnacle Twins or Wolfgang Duo with the PC 7424. Both combo deals are offered at $179.99 with a variety of pads and microfiber bonnets. I definelty have my mind made up on Wolfgang sealant 3.0; I need the long lasting easy way; the weather here isn't always cooperative.

I am intersted in any thoughts you can offer a rookie. I have never used anything but my hands and Meguiars products i.e. Gold Class and NXT first generation.

Thanks a million
Los

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Molos 2003

I have been reading threads on care care for days now and everyone has convinced me I need a Power tool particulary the Porter Cable 7424.

I am looking at Autogeek right now. I like some of the combo deals, particulary the Pinnacle Twins or Wolfgang Duo with the PC 7424. Both combo deals are offered at $179.99 with a variety of pads and microfiber bonnets. I definelty have my mind made up on Wolfgang sealant 3.0; I need the long lasting easy way; the weather here isn't always cooperative.

I am intersted in any thoughts you can offer a rookie. I have never used anything but my hands and Meguiars products i.e. Gold Class and NXT first generation.

Thanks a million
Los

Los, I don't think you're going to see much of a difference between the two packages, the polishes are very similar performing. I'd strongly suggest investing in some more pads than the 1 each though if you do end up going with one of those kits. Also, make sure you add in the backing plate which isn't included and you might as well toss the bonnets that comes with the kit as they are pretty pointless.

Another option to consider (if you act today with our 20% off sale, coupon code fm20) would be the following:



This would give you more cut and finish better than the package at Autogeek. You're also getting 8 pads vs 2 and arguably better polishes.

Hope this helps.

George

[Molos 2003]

Thanks; way better package and price. Would I still need a sealant/wax?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Molos 2003

Thanks; way better package and price. Would I still need a sealant/wax?

Yes, a polish leaves your finish unprotected. If you're trying to keep costs lower, you can opt for a sealant or wax, you don't necessarily need both. A nice bang for the buck sealant is Chemical Guys M-Seal or Poorboy's EX-P and a nice bang for the buck wax Poorboy's Natty's Blue is an amazing wax for under $20.

Hope this helps.

George

[OEKlM]

Im using a flex...and I have Jet Black paint. I know of the whole marring issue with the microfibers but I was just wondering if my polish process will be sufficient

Could I get away with the following:

SIP/orange
106fa/white

or

should I pick up some 85rd and do

SIP/orange
106fa/white
85rd/grey

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by oeklm

Im using a flex...and I have Jet Black paint. I know of the whole marring issue with the microfibers but I was just wondering if my polish process will be sufficient

Could I get away with the following:

SIP/orange
106fa/white

or

should I pick up some 85rd and do

SIP/orange
106fa/white
85rd/grey

You shouldn't be disappointed with either route you go. Both are top notch polishing options and should leave you with a near flawless finish and tons of depth and gloss. Slight advantage to the 3 step polishing combo with the 85RD, but you'll get 90% of the results out of the 2 step combo. Sometimes that extra 10% of pure gloss and depth is worth it though

Keep us posted on what you end up going with and how things turn out.

George

[canrhea]

fm20 coupon not working anymore?

[OEKlM]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

You shouldn't be disappointed with either route you go. Both are top notch polishing options and should leave you with a near flawless finish and tons of depth and gloss. Slight advantage to the 3 step polishing combo with the 85RD, but you'll get 90% of the results out of the 2 step combo. Sometimes that extra 10% of pure gloss and depth is worth it though

Keep us posted on what you end up going with and how things turn out.

George

Thanks again George. I will see how things work with just the SIP and 106fa...if I feel like there is still a little haze, ill proceed to the 85rd.

Ill be sure to post after the detail but it probably wont be for a week or two considering we jsut got snow again....

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by canrhea

fm20 coupon not working anymore?

Unfortunately, the fm20 code expired yesterday. If you sign up for our newsletter you'll be notified of other sales and promotions we run.

Originally Posted by oeklm

Thanks again George. I will see how things work with just the SIP and 106fa...if I feel like there is still a little haze, ill proceed to the 85rd.

Ill be sure to post after the detail but it probably wont be for a week or two considering we jsut got snow again....

If you take your time and really work the polishes into the paint, you shouldn't see any haze after the 106fa. I know JB is tough to work on, but you'll be fine if you take your time, use the proper amount of pressure and product and change your pads out for fresh ones every few panels (or at a minimum clean them out with a brush every panel or two).

Can't wait for the Spring weather to fully kick in! I'm sick of the snow myself.

Cheers,

George

[scottmc129]

Hey George! I have a question about how to go forward after I have done a full polish, seal and wax.

I have a e90 sedan sparkling graphite.

A co-worker of mine had all the tools and worked at a high end dealership to learn his craft. I want to double check his work and help maintain the foundation he has put down. We did a good wash and dry with a shammy( Is this the best to DRY?? ) clay the whole car. He then polished the car with Klasse AIO and then went over again with Zymol with the polisher as well. It looks great and i want to keep it that way!

What is the best wax or seal process should I use going forward? I would prob wax 2-3 times a year so if you can point out the right products for the job that would be a big help. I also would want to know if I need to use a clay bar and a polisher again now that has been done. I dont want to lose too much clear coat!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by scottmc129

Hey George! I have a question about how to go forward after I have done a full polish, seal and wax.

I have a e90 sedan sparkling graphite.

A co-worker of mine had all the tools and worked at a high end dealership to learn his craft. I want to double check his work and help maintain the foundation he has put down. We did a good wash and dry with a shammy( Is this the best to DRY?? ) clay the whole car. He then polished the car with Klasse AIO and then went over again with Zymol with the polisher as well. It looks great and i want to keep it that way!

What is the best wax or seal process should I use going forward? I would prob wax 2-3 times a year so if you can point out the right products for the job that would be a big help. I also would want to know if I need to use a clay bar and a polisher again now that has been done. I dont want to lose too much clear coat!

Good questions. Regarding the chamois to dry the car, I think there are better options out there. Chamois, while absorbent, are flat, so when a piece of dirt or contamination gets trapped under one, it can drag it across the paint causing swirling or minor imperfections. The most popular drying towel option amongst professional detailers is the waffle weave microfiber drying towel. The waffle texture allows you to pull remaining dirt and contamination away from the paints surface, helping minimize adding imperfections compared to a chamois. They are super absorbent and usually easier to work with in terms of flexibility. If you're interested in trying one out, we have our waffle weave drying towels on sale for the month of March.

If you plan on protecting your vehicle 2 - 3 times a year, stay away from carnauba waxes. Carnauba waxes typically last 4 - 8 weeks, versus a sealant typically lasts 3 - 6 months. Ideally, you want to make sure your car is properly protected year round, so I'd advise you to apply the sealant at least 3 times a year. One of our most popular sealants, Menzerna FMJ is also on sale this month, and it's known for it's ease of use in terms of applying and removing, great surface slickness left behind and great gloss and depth. Another great option, is Poorboy's EX-P sealant, which for under $20 is a great bang for your buck sealant.

Typically, you'll want to clay your vehicle roughly 2 times a year or as needed. Polishing really depends on how well you properly wash and dry your car because this is where a majority of imperfections are added to the paint. If you take the time to master the proper techniques and use quality wash tools, you can minimize the imperfections and prolong your next polishing session. The good thing about Klasse AIO is that it's non-abrasive, so you didn't remove much clear coat when you used it. It's a chemical polish which helps remove oxidation, water spots, and brighten the paint, but it typically will not remove swirls, scratches or other etched imperfections. You'd need to use an abrasive polish to completely remove those types of imperfections and you're generally safe to polish with abrasives twice a year with a light to medium cut polish.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

Cheers,

George

[Nebster]

i have a friend that parts his bmw outside every day. I personally have not worked on a car that will see this kind of exposure. I would prefer to only do a full paint correction every 6 months but i have a feeling the elements will attack his car more so than someone that parks their car in the garage every night.

I'm looking into a sealant and frequently use jetseal 109. I find that jetseal is very very good when it comes application, and durability but like i said not with these elements.

Any experience with jetseal 109 or should i look into the menzerna FMJ for his car?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Nebster

i have a friend that parts his bmw outside every day. I personally have not worked on a car that will see this kind of exposure. I would prefer to only do a full paint correction every 6 months but i have a feeling the elements will attack his car more so than someone that parks their car in the garage every night.

I'm looking into a sealant and frequently use jetseal 109. I find that jetseal is very very good when it comes application, and durability but like i said not with these elements.

Any experience with jetseal 109 or should i look into the menzerna FMJ for his car?

Thanks for the post Nebster. I don't think you're going to find that FMJ is much better than Jet Seal in terms of protection against the elements. I think you're best bet is to use a carnauba wax on a monthly basis on top of your sealant. Carnauba waxes tend to fend off the elements better than sealants and I find the paint is much easier to maintain with a carnauba wax over a sealant. The downside of carnauba waxes is that their durability is typically 4 - 8 weeks instead of 3 - 6 months like a sealant. You could look into a spray on wax, such as Optimum Car Wax for a quicker solution over a paste wax.

Hope this helps.

George

[Nebster]

thanks george, the problem is my friend only wants to see me once every 6 months so i doubt he'll want to do a wax every month or so. I'll talk to him and see what we can work out. Thanks for the help sir.

[EClayton08]

I'm gonna do a complete detail of my car during my spring break this week, usually I've just done a wash then wax with my old cars but I want to do more steps as this will be my first full detail for my new car. I'm not really sure the best steps to do but I was thinking just wash, clay, polish, wax. But then I thought, maybe use a sealant. I will be doing this all by hand, so what will be the best route to go? For wax I'm looking to pick up S100, but rest is up in the air. Any suggestions?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Nebster

thanks george, the problem is my friend only wants to see me once every 6 months so i doubt he'll want to do a wax every month or so. I'll talk to him and see what we can work out. Thanks for the help sir.

Sounds good. I missed the part that you'll be caring for the vehicle on a twice a year basis. Unfortunately, with that much time going by, there aren't going to be many products on the market that will last that long or offer great protection against the elements for that long. Another option for you to offer him may be to offer 2 full details and 2 touch ups in between. Good luck.

Originally Posted by EClayton08

I'm gonna do a complete detail of my car during my spring break this week, usually I've just done a wash then wax with my old cars but I want to do more steps as this will be my first full detail for my new car. I'm not really sure the best steps to do but I was thinking just wash, clay, polish, wax. But then I thought, maybe use a sealant. I will be doing this all by hand, so what will be the best route to go? For wax I'm looking to pick up S100, but rest is up in the air. Any suggestions?

Sounds like you got the process down. You should notice quite the improvement over your normal wash and wax with what you have planned out. Here are some suggestions to look into:

Washing & Drying Suggestions:
Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II
Lake Country Grout Sponge or Sheepskin Wash Mitt
Grit Guard Insert
Waffle Weave Drying Towels
Gilmour Foamaster II Foam Gun

Claying Suggestions:
Chemical Guys Fine Grade Clay
Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer as clay lube

Polish Suggestion:
Ideally, you'll want to invest in a quality buffer for great polishing results. You're going to limit the amount of swirl and other imperfection removal when it comes to hand applications. I wouldn't recommend going more aggressive than a finishing polish when it comes to hand applications. You could look into Menzerna PO106FF as an option you can use, which will certainly enhance the depth and gloss of the paint, but also remove some minor imperfections. A local solution commonly used for hand applications is Meg's ScratchX.

Sealant Suggestion:
A great bang for the buck option is Chemical Guys M-Seal. It's very easy to work with and provides great protection. I'd recommend allowing it to cure for 24 hours prior to topping it with the S100 wax for optimal results (this applies to any sealant btw).

If you have any other questions on anything or would like any suggestions on anything else, please do not hesitate to ask.

Keep us posted on what you end up using and how things turn out.

George