[STR8-6IX]

Hi all - I am due for my oil change soon and would like to hear some opinions/experiences regarding Motul oil. I am currently using castrol, as I have been for some time and am rather dissapointed with the shearing of this oil over the long run. How does Motul stand up to shearing? My other choice would be Shell rotella/helix 5w-40 which is great for rough conditions. any other suggestions for the N52 engine?

any suggestions, experiences and opinions will be highly appreciated.

thanks!

[sprp85]

Motul have strong followers and well regarded, but if you plan to change them out at 5k miles, I dont think its economically smart move to use them.

Which Castrol did you use and how did you measure shearing of the oil?

Just curious.

[STR8-6IX]

Originally Posted by sprp85

Motul have strong followers and well regarded, but if you plan to change them out at 5k miles, I dont think its economically smart move to use them.

Which Castrol did you use and how did you measure shearing of the oil?

Just curious.

I used castrol Syntec 5w40 and I do 5k (mile) oil changes.

how i measured the shearing was nothing scientific. I just noticed the oil isnt as thick after about 3000 miles as it was when I first got the oil change. Also, Oil temps have increased by about 5-10C which to me signifies shearing. Im not the one to buy a BMW and then be concerned about what is economically best for my car though. I do 5K oil changes because I drive the car rather hard at times and had pretty dirty oil after this interval.

[PhaseP]

Motul will make your engine explode. Mobil makes it move around too much, Castrol causes its shell to crack. Shell makes it to crumbly and introverted, especially the Rotella version. Not the Rotella please, use Nutella instead. Hazelnut oil is the best for your engine!

[STR8-6IX]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Motul will make your engine explode. Mobil makes it move around too much, Castrol causes its shell to crack. Shell makes it to crumbly and introverted, especially the Rotella version. Not the Rotella please, use Nutella instead. Hazelnut oil is the best for your engine!

that was so terrible it was actually kind of funny

[Eagle1oh7]

I haven't had any issues yet, I'm coming up on the next one and intend to send a sample in for testing to see if it's better than the last time since that was oil from the dealership. I'll post both reports up for a comparison.

[STR8-6IX]

Originally Posted by Eagle1oh7

I haven't had any issues yet, I'm coming up on the next one and intend to send a sample in for testing to see if it's better than the last time since that was oil from the dealership. I'll post both reports up for a comparison.

Awesome! how many miles you got on your current oil change? what sort of oil are you using now, and in the past?

[blackhawkk22]

I changed over to Motul 5w-40 X-cess recently because I've had to top up on BMW genuine oil over the last 2 oil changes prior to the most recent 2. I've been running Motul for the 2 most recent oil changes and it's been running really well without needing any kind of topping up. Oil temps run at around 200-210F which is the range at which detergent is most effective in synthetic oils.

To be honest with you, if there was one CLEARLY superior [insert product here], you'd know about it because no one else would use the competition. I made this decision based on research and opinion of friends who I race my car(s) with. Just because I chose to trust their expertise and it works for my preference/driving habits doesn't mean its the right choice for all E90s

[STR8-6IX]

Originally Posted by blackhawkk22

I changed over to Motul 5w-40 X-cess recently because I've had to top up on BMW genuine oil over the last 2 oil changes prior to the most recent 2. I've been running Motul for the 2 most recent oil changes and it's been running really well without needing any kind of topping up. Oil temps run at around 200-210F which is the range at which detergent is most effective in synthetic oils.

To be honest with you, if there was one CLEARLY superior [insert product here], you'd know about it because no one else would use the competition. I made this decision based on research and opinion of friends who I race my car(s) with. Just because I chose to trust their expertise and it works for my preference/driving habits doesn't mean its the right choice for all E90s

your car stopped burning oil after switching to motul? what were you using before, the BMW oil? (castrol i believe)

we use castrol 530 in my dads mazda and it burns some oil. will consider switching over to motul for his car as well as both our cars are due for an oil change.

[blackhawkk22]

Originally Posted by 6IX-F10-N52

your car stopped burning oil after switching to motul? what were you using before, the BMW oil? (castrol i believe)

we use castrol 530 in my dads mazda and it burns some oil. will consider switching over to motul for his car as well as both our cars are due for an oil change.

Yup - no topping up since switching to 5w-40. The 5w-30 was BMW OEM dealer oil and when I asked them about having to top up, they said it was normal for most cars, especially with spirited driving.

[123Britt]

However, there is a big difference between the N52 engine and an N55/N54 as far as the oil demands.
.
For an N52 - I would stick with Castrol Edge 0W-40 from Wallmart and IMHO the OCI is they key to keeping the engine clean and long lasting with Mann or OEM filters. Actually any LL-01 oil & change it often.
.
N54 -- well this engine is so hard on oil it requires the very best.
Motul 5W-40 is excellent just not the 300V for a DD. Grp IV / V oil for sure.
.
.
Just my thoughts --- Cheers

[STR8-6IX]

Originally Posted by 123Britt

However, there is a big difference between the N52 engine and an N55/N54 as far as the oil demands.
.
For an N52 - I would stick with Castrol Edge 0W-40 from Wallmart and IMHO the OCI is they key to keeping the engine clean and long lasting with Mann or OEM filters. Actually any LL-01 oil & change it often.
.
N54 -- well this engine is so hard on oil it requires the very best.
Motul 5W-40 is excellent just not the 300V for a DD. Grp IV / V oil for sure.
.
.
Just my thoughts --- Cheers

Never in my life would I use a 0W oil. I use 5W-40 in my N52 and she runs great. I plan to switch to Motul after this oil change, castrol shears too much..

[floydarogers]

Originally Posted by 6IX-F10-N52

Never in my life would I use a 0W oil. I use 5W-40 in my N52 and she runs great. I plan to switch to Motul after this oil change, castrol shears too much..

I'm a bit off-put by your continuing statements like this. How do you know? You've never indicated you've had any analysis done on any of your oil. You say it seemed "thin" (in other threads). You say it appears "worn". You say lots of things with apparently no factual basis or supporting data.

In fact, Castrol (and others under discussion) all wear about the same, and all have adequate viscosity at the end of their lifetimes using BMW's recommended OCI. All the Blackstone reports I've read (here and other forums, and on BITOG) show that.

Come on, now, where's your PROOF? I'll show you mine: here's my Blackstone report from just under 13K miles on my 335d (it's a slightly different Castrol than the LL-01 you're talking about because it's a diesel, and 13K is the recommended OCI). Note the viscosity numbers down near the bottom. Blackstone 6-14 335d.pdf

[Eagle1oh7]

Originally Posted by 6IX-F10-N52

Awesome! how many miles you got on your current oil change? what sort of oil are you using now, and in the past?

I did my oil change at 48K, right now I'm sitting at 60.2K so the interval will be out of periodicity in another 300 miles. I had to top off once because of the initial burn-off when I changed the oil and since then I've not had to do it again.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by 6IX-F10-N52

Never in my life would I use a 0W oil. I use 5W-40 in my N52 and she runs great. I plan to switch to Motul after this oil change, castrol shears too much..

Again, you realize 0w only offers advantages, correct?

There is no disadvantage to running a thinner oil at start up, only advantages.

You should try it, maybe just once in your life. It's a revelation*

Mobile 1 /thread

[STR8-6IX]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Again, you realize 0w only offers advantages, correct?

There is no disadvantage to running a thinner oil at start up, only advantages.

You should try it, maybe just once in your life. It's a revelation*

Mobile 1 /thread

a cold start process is what 5 minutes? its takes longer then that to fully warm the engine up, but 0W literally only helps for the first 20-30 seconds to circulate oil. after that, its nothing but disadvantages in terms of engine protection once you are up to temp. Mobil 1 is the most garbage oil brand you can use.. its for people concerned about a 30 second cold start and fuel efficiency, nothing else. it offers less protection at full engine temp which is where your engine clearly spends most of its time. I made this post to figure out which 5w-40 oil is best, not to have you try and convince me an oil not even spec'ed by BMW is best for my car.

[123Britt]

OK -- you da man.
.
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In Alabama I do use Penn Euro 5W-40 BUT IT would be logical to think 0W-40 would work well in Canada.
.
If you want to know which is BEST -- 5W-40 --- I think an oil that meets BMW LL-01 & A40 Porsche specs really checks a lot of boxes. Best would have to be subject to analysis but the Shell Helix 5W-40 is certainly really good.
.

[r4dr]

Originally Posted by 6IX-F10-N52

a cold start process is what 5 minutes? its takes longer then that to fully warm the engine up, but 0W literally only helps for the first 20-30 seconds to circulate oil. after that, its nothing but disadvantages in terms of engine protection once you are up to temp. Mobil 1 is the most garbage oil brand you can use.. its for people concerned about a 30 second cold start and fuel efficiency, nothing else. it offers less protection at full engine temp which is where your engine clearly spends most of its time. I made this post to figure out which 5w-40 oil is best, not to have you try and convince me an oil not even spec'ed by BMW is best for my car.

A vast majority of engine wear occurs on starts, especially cold starts. I've heard 90% thrown around on places like BITOG. So yes, the 0W will help a lot with engine wear protection especially if you live in a cold climate (aka most of Canada).

Mobil 1 0W-40 used to be specced LL-01 but they recently reformulated and numerous arguments have been made whether it's still meeting the spec and if Mobil just decided to forgo the certification process. You're probably fine using it but might as well stick to an LL-01 oil if you want to be 100% safe.

Motul 5W-40 is a good oil, but make sure you use the LL-01 version which is 8100 X-Cess. They have another 8100 oil that's LL-04 and I believe 5W-30.

I've personally used Castrol Edge 0W-40 for a while in my N54, and I tracked the car through this. Never had problems. But at the end of the day thinking the oil "looks thinner" coming out is absolute bullshit and if you believe that I have a bridge to sell you. Of course it's thinner, it's probably coming out a fair amount warmer than the fresh jug you're pouring in, because if you're doing your oil change correctly the engine should be warmed up so the oil can flow the contaminants out better.

The only way to accurately determine how the oil is holding up is with an used oil analysis. That being said, changing the oil at 5k is a waste of time and money. People have gone 17k based on the CBS and the UOA came back great. In fact, I remember the OP saying Blackstone actually said you could run it for longer.

I wouldn't recommend 17k because it makes me feel weird despite the scientific proof backing it up, but unless you're tracking the car (and no, driving fast onto on-ramps is not the same) you can believe the computer and hold out until 10-12k even with a quality oil like Motul.

[blackturbo]

I use motul 5w-40 with a Mann filter
Every 10,000 km intervals
I haven't yet had to top off oil.

When I do reach the 10,000km mark, I loose slightly 1 bar... Say 200ml?
Best oil I've used in my life, but unfortunately it's also expensive

[STR8-6IX]

Originally Posted by r4dr

A vast majority of engine wear occurs on starts, especially cold starts. I've heard 90% thrown around on places like BITOG. So yes, the 0W will help a lot with engine wear protection especially if you live in a cold climate (aka most of Canada).

Mobil 1 0W-40 used to be specced LL-01 but they recently reformulated and numerous arguments have been made whether it's still meeting the spec and if Mobil just decided to forgo the certification process. You're probably fine using it but might as well stick to an LL-01 oil if you want to be 100% safe.

Motul 5W-40 is a good oil, but make sure you use the LL-01 version which is 8100 X-Cess. They have another 8100 oil that's LL-04 and I believe 5W-30.

I've personally used Castrol Edge 0W-40 for a while in my N54, and I tracked the car through this. Never had problems. But at the end of the day thinking the oil "looks thinner" coming out is absolute bullshit and if you believe that I have a bridge to sell you. Of course it's thinner, it's probably coming out a fair amount warmer than the fresh jug you're pouring in, because if you're doing your oil change correctly the engine should be warmed up so the oil can flow the contaminants out better.

The only way to accurately determine how the oil is holding up is with an used oil analysis. That being said, changing the oil at 5k is a waste of time and money. People have gone 17k based on the CBS and the UOA came back great. In fact, I remember the OP saying Blackstone actually said you could run it for longer.

I wouldn't recommend 17k because it makes me feel weird despite the scientific proof backing it up, but unless you're tracking the car (and no, driving fast onto on-ramps is not the same) you can believe the computer and hold out until 10-12k even with a quality oil like Motul.

Cold starts are a little rough with a 5W oil, but fact being that my car is stored in a heated condo garage, I feel like I dont need a 0w oil despite my conditions.

My dad has a 2015 mazda 6, which as you all may know is spec'ed for 0w-20 oil. the difference putting 5w-30 into the engine made was simply astounding. the engine felt completely rejuvenated particularly when winding out past 4000rpm.. alot more refined and smooth. it was a wonderful "upgrade." car burns alot less oil with this weight as well.

the cold start was nothing to be concerned about compared to the 0w-20 which was previously used. the oil flowed the same on initial startup.

I will always use 5w-30, 5w-40 oil because it fills/protects the bearings better and is much more resistant to high heat and abusive driving conditions which i sometimes subject the car to.

[floydarogers]

Originally Posted by 6IX-F10-N52

...
I will always use 5w-30, 5w-40 oil because it fills/protects the bearings better and is much more resistant to high heat and abusive driving conditions which i sometimes subject the car to.

No, the 5W-xx oils don't protect better because that number has NOTHING to do with "high heat and abusive driving conditions". The -30 or -40 is what does that.

[blackhawkk22]

OP, don't take this the wrong way but it seems like you're pretty stuck on certain per-concieved notions that you have based on experiences and educated guesses. I'm not here to tell you if you're right or wrong but this might shed a little bit more light and help you learn more so you can answer your own questions.

Its a brief video but it really is very interesting if you're actually interested about oil and how it makes a difference in your engine.