[scooby9]

Does anyone here with Forge diverter valves notice some oil residue on the boost tube around the valve? It seems like some blow by is leaking out along the collar. Both of mine have the residue but the one closest to the front has considerably more.

[Ilma]

If you don't have an oil catch can, that observation doesn't surprise me.

I recently emptied mine at 10,000 miles and there was over 1/3 cup of residual oil that would have made it's way into the intake tract.

So you can expect some oil in your intake system/intercooler as a normal part of the emissions control burning off crankcase blowby via sucking it back into the engine's intake system.

But even so, I wouldn't expect a diverter valve to be leaking oil like that. Could be an indication of a small boost leak also.

[J.P.]

I really think there is a design flaw in the forge DV's theres been a few members including myself that seem to have this problem, and boost leak problems. the DV's sometimes arent fully seated, no matter how you install them...

[scooby9]

I agree. When I look at the design, I don't understand how there could possibly be an airtight seal. There is no soft material to fully seal the DV. I don't have a boost gauge so I can't tell how much of an effect this has...

Originally Posted by J.P.

I really think there is a design flaw in the forge DV's theres been a few members including myself that seem to have this problem, and boost leak problems. the DV's sometimes arent fully seated, no matter how you install them...

[J.P.]

im suprised there are no o-rings on the outside of the DV connector...

[scooby9]

I might just consider the catch can. I remember my old WRX's intercooler and how it was completely coated inside with oil. My 335xi's boost tube was the same when I switched out the DV's... totally coated inside with oil.

Originally Posted by Ilma

If you don't have an oil catch can, that observation doesn't surprise me.

I recently emptied mine at 10,000 miles and there was over 1/3 cup of residual oil that would have made it's way into the intake tract.

So you can expect some oil in your intake system/intercooler as a normal part of the emissions control burning off crankcase blowby via sucking it back into the engine's intake system.

But even so, I wouldn't expect a diverter valve to be leaking oil like that. Could be an indication of a small boost leak also.

[Ilma]

Originally Posted by scooby9

I might just consider the catch can. I remember my old WRX's intercooler and how it was completely coated inside with oil. My 335xi's boost tube was the same when I switched out the DV's... totally coated inside with oil.

I just swapped my intercooler for an aftermarket one last month, and even with the catch can, there was some oil coating the inside of it.

But it was clean oil, so probably from the 1st 2000 miles of break-in when I didn't have a catch can on yet.

[cbad335]

Originally Posted by scooby9

I agree. When I look at the design, I don't understand how there could possibly be an airtight seal. There is no soft material to fully seal the DV. I don't have a boost gauge so I can't tell how much of an effect this has...

Originally Posted by J.P.

im suprised there are no o-rings on the outside of the DV connector...

There are O-rings that sit below the gray lock ring, inside the charge pipe connection. You can feel the edge of them with your fingertip. (Make sure those are in place and they didn't fall into your charge pipe if you removed the lock rings.) When installed, the DV will rotate freely but should not pull up (at least no more than a mm or so). BTW, I replaced my charge pipe recently and the old one had a surprising amount of oil on the inside walls. I haven't noticed them on the DV, but I will check next time I remove them.

[cbad335]

I just checked my stock DV's and they had a light coating of oil inside the notched part that inserts into the charge pipe connectors. So, it seems to happen with the OEM DV's, as well. Looks like I better think about a catch can.

[scooby9]

I didn't know that there were o-rings in there already. I'll pop the valves off and have a look inside to make sure that they're still there!

Cheers,

Originally Posted by cbad335

There are O-rings that sit below the gray lock ring, inside the charge pipe connection. You can feel the edge of them with your fingertip. (Make sure those are in place and they didn't fall into your charge pipe if you removed the lock rings.) When installed, the DV will rotate freely but should not pull up (at least no more than a mm or so). BTW, I replaced my charge pipe recently and the old one had a surprising amount of oil on the inside walls. I haven't noticed them on the DV, but I will check next time I remove them.

[Ilma]

Yup....there are O-rings inside the charge pipe.

I just installed the Forge DV's on my 135 yesterday and there was hardly any oil residue on them, nor inside the charge pipe.

I ran my finger inside the charge pipe and was quite surprised at how little oil residue there was.

It was not completely dry, but pretty close to it (after 13,000 miles).

Goes to show how well these catch cans are doing their jobs!



BTW....has anyone else installed these valves on a 135?

I noticed that rear valve would not rotate into a parallel position with the front one due to an obstruction running off the charge pipe that connects right between the two valves.

I recall Terry mentioning this was some sort of a sound generator.....WTF.

I got the valve onto it's attachment point on the intake pipe, but the blowoff hose isn't sitting right (due to the obstruction) and this makes the valve rotate in its housing so that it is making contact with the other one.

Anyone else have this issue?

[Sniz]

if you have oil residue on the OUTSIDE of the charge pipe around the collar then you have a boost leak. I never had an issue w my Forge DV's doing that. Reinstall and clean the mounting area thorougly including down in the collar. Put a light coating of oil or some type of thin lubricant on the o-ring (thats what she said) to let it seal w/ the DV's.

I repeat, you dont want to see oil leaking out ANYWHERE on your charge pipes, thats not good.

[Kevin@AKMotorwerk]

Originally Posted by scooby9

I didn't know that there were o-rings in there already. I'll pop the valves off and have a look inside to make sure that they're still there!

Cheers,

check your hose length going to the dv's, everone that i have installed needed the front hose shortened at least, if the hoses are too long they push the dv's crooked in the charge pipe and break the seal, i have never seen anybody have oil coming out.

[scooby9]

Originally Posted by sexye92

check your hose length going to the dv's, everone that i have installed needed the front hose shortened at least, if the hoses are too long they push the dv's crooked in the charge pipe and break the seal, i have never seen anybody have oil coming out.

Thanks, I think you may be right. The front hose is putting a lot of pressure on the valve. I'll give it a trim and see if that resolves the seal issue.

Cheers.

[Sniz]

Originally Posted by scooby9

Thanks, I think you may be right. The front hose is putting a lot of pressure on the valve. I'll give it a trim and see if that resolves the seal issue.

Cheers.

I used custom cut heater hoses ala Mr 5. Go to a parts store, take in your Forge hoses and match them up to the curves on different hoses that are preformed. You will have to purchase the full hoses, but when you cut out the portions you need they will fit like a glove and put no stress on any fittings or components.

much better setup and the install looks cleaner.

My 2 cents.

[IRoss]

[QUOTE=cbad335;5220654]When installed, the DV will rotate freely but should not pull up (at least no more than a mm or so).


Is that the normal amount of minimal play? My DVs clicked into the charged pipe on install, or so I though, turn freely, but can be pulled outward nearly 1/2 inch.

I Noticed a whistle during boosted acceleration above and beyond the type AFE intake noise, followed by an engine light, and took a peak under the hood to notice my DVs with a light coating of oil at the base and noticeably up, but not out, of the charge pipe. Definitely not a good seall. I plan on cutting down the supplied hose for sure to relieve stress and hopefully avoid further issue as well as install the catch can that arrived the other day.

Also of note, I have a boost gauge and am running stage 1 with the Procede. I had previous peak boost values of 12.7-13.1 psi and now get an engine light with anything above 7 psi secondary to the leak.